0 746 4 Polaris Code - Your Complete Diagnostic & Fix-It Guide

There’s nothing like the thrill of hitting the trail, but few things kill the mood faster than a blinking check engine light. You glance down at your Polaris dash, and it spits out a cryptic message: 0 746 4. Your heart sinks a little. Is the ride over? Is this going to be an expensive trip to the dealer?

Agree with this? We’ve all been there. That sudden warning can turn a great day into a stressful one, leaving you worried about potential damage and costly repairs.

But here’s the good news. We promise that this code is often a straightforward fix you can handle right in your own garage. This guide is your new best friend for diagnosing and resolving the 0 746 4 polaris code, saving you time, money, and frustration.

In this complete 0 746 4 polaris code guide, we’ll break down exactly what this code means, the common symptoms to watch for, the likely culprits, and a step-by-step diagnostic process to get you back on the trail with confidence. Let’s get those wrenches turning!

What Exactly Is the 0 746 4 Polaris Code?

First things first, let’s decode the message. The Polaris fault code 0 746 4 points directly to a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit. Specifically, the code translates to “ECT Sensor Circuit High / Open.”

In simple terms, your machine’s “brain,” the Engine Control Unit (ECU), isn’t getting the right signal from the sensor that measures how hot your engine’s coolant is. It’s either seeing a voltage that’s way too high or no signal at all (an “open” circuit).

Why does this matter? The ECT sensor is critical. It tells the ECU how to adjust the fuel mixture and when to kick on the cooling fan. When that signal is lost, the ECU goes into a “limp” or default mode to protect the engine, which leads to the problems you’re likely experiencing.

Common Symptoms of Fault Code 0 746 4

When the ECU is flying blind without accurate temperature data, your Polaris will let you know. You’re not just dealing with a light on the dash; you’ll likely notice some real performance issues.

Here are the most common signs that you’re dealing with this specific code:

Check Engine Light (CEL): This is the most obvious one. The light will be on, and the code 0 746 4 will be displayed.
Cooling Fan Running Constantly: As a fail-safe, the ECU may run the fan full-time to prevent overheating, even if the engine is cold.
Hard Starting, Especially When Cold: The ECU uses the ECT reading to enrich the fuel mixture for cold starts, like a modern choke. Without it, the engine struggles to fire up.
Poor or Rough Idle: The engine may idle erratically or stall because the fuel mixture isn’t optimized for the current temperature.
Black Smoke from Exhaust: This is a classic sign of the engine running too rich (too much fuel, not enough air). The ECU is dumping in extra fuel assuming the engine is cold.
Decreased Fuel Economy: An engine running rich is an engine wasting fuel. You’ll notice you’re burning through gas much faster than usual.

The Main Culprits: What Causes the 0 746 4 Polaris Code?

Now that we know the what and the why, let’s look at the “who”—the parts that are most likely causing your headache. Fortunately, the list is short, and we’ll start with the most common offender.

1. A Failed ECT Sensor

This is, by far, the most common cause. The sensor itself is a small electronic component that lives in a harsh environment of heat and vibration. Over time, it can simply fail internally, leading to an open circuit and triggering the code.

2. Damaged Wiring or Connector

Off-roading is tough on machines. Wires can get snagged by branches, melted by a hot exhaust pipe, or frayed from vibration. The plastic connector at the sensor can also become brittle and crack, or the terminals inside can get caked with mud and water, causing corrosion.

3. A Corroded Connection

Water, mud, and pressure washing can force moisture into electrical connectors. Over time, this causes the metal pins to corrode (you might see a green or white crust), creating a poor connection that the ECU interprets as an open circuit.

4. A Faulty ECU (Very Rare)

While possible, a bad ECU is extremely unlikely to be the cause. Always rule out the sensor, wiring, and connectors before even considering the ECU. This is the last resort after all other diagnostic steps have failed.

Your Step-by-Step 0 746 4 Polaris Code Guide: Tools and Diagnostics

Alright, it’s time to get our hands dirty. This section provides the how to 0 746 4 polaris code diagnostic process. Follow these steps methodically, and you’ll pinpoint the problem. And remember our number one rule at FatBoysOffroad: safety first! Make sure the engine is completely cool before you start working.

H3: Essential Tools You’ll Need

You don’t need a full professional shop, but a few key tools will make this job possible.

A good quality Digital Multimeter (this is non-negotiable for electrical diagnostics)
Basic socket and wrench set
Pliers
Electrical contact cleaner
Dielectric grease
Your Polaris’s service manual (highly recommended for sensor location and specs)

H3: Step 1: Visual Inspection – The First Line of Defense

Before you grab any tools, use your eyes. A thorough visual inspection solves more problems than you’d think and is one of the most important 0 746 4 polaris code best practices.

Locate the ECT Sensor: On most Polaris models, it’s screwed into the cylinder head or thermostat housing. It will have a two-wire electrical connector. If you’re unsure, consult your service manual.
Inspect the Wiring: Carefully trace the wires coming from the sensor as far back as you can. Look for any signs of damage: cuts, chafing, melted spots, or sharp bends.
Check the Connector: Unplug the connector from the sensor. It might have a small locking tab you need to press. Look inside both the sensor side and the harness side. Is it clean and shiny, or is it full of dirt, moisture, or green corrosion?

If you find a dirty or corroded connector, spray it generously with electrical contact cleaner and use a small brush to gently clean the terminals. Let it dry completely, apply a small dab of dielectric grease to the seal, and plug it back in. Sometimes, this is all it takes!

H3: Step 2: Testing the ECT Sensor with a Multimeter

If the visual inspection checks out, it’s time to test the sensor itself. This is where your multimeter becomes your best friend. We’re going to test its resistance.

Set your multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms, symbolized by Ω). Choose a range like 20kΩ to start.
With the sensor unplugged, touch the two multimeter probes to the two metal pins on the sensor itself.
Note the resistance reading. An ECT sensor’s resistance changes with temperature. Your service manual will have a chart, but a common reading for a cold engine (around 68°F / 20°C) is typically between 2,000 and 3,000 Ohms (2-3 kΩ).
If you get a reading of “OL” (Open Loop) or 1, it means the sensor is internally broken, and you’ve found your problem. It needs to be replaced.

H3: Step 3: Checking the Wiring Harness

If the sensor tests good, the problem lies in the wiring between the sensor and the ECU. This is a bit more advanced but totally doable.

You’ll need to check for continuity (that the wire isn’t broken) and for shorts (that the wire isn’t touching ground where it shouldn’t be).

Consult your service manual for the ECU pinout diagram to identify which pins correspond to the ECT sensor. You’ll perform a continuity test from the pins at the ECU connector to the pins at the sensor connector. A good wire should have near-zero resistance.

If this step feels overwhelming, don’t hesitate. This is a good point to consider calling a professional mechanic. There’s no shame in knowing your limits.

Fixing the Problem: Replacing the ECT Sensor

Let’s say your diagnosis points to a bad sensor. Great! This is a relatively easy and inexpensive part to replace. Here’s a general process, but always defer to your specific service manual.

Prepare for Coolant Loss: Have the new sensor and a rag ready. When you unscrew the old sensor, a small amount of coolant will leak out. Work quickly to minimize the mess.
Unplug and Remove: Unplug the electrical connector. Using the correct size deep socket or wrench, unscrew the old sensor.
Install the New Sensor: Make sure the new sensor has a sealing washer. Thread it in by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten it to the torque spec listed in your manual. Do not overtighten!
Reconnect and Top Off: Plug the electrical connector back in firmly. Check your coolant level in the overflow bottle and radiator, and top it off if necessary.
Clear the Code: Start the engine. The code may clear on its own after a few run cycles, or you may be able to clear it through your machine’s diagnostic mode.

Following this 0 746 4 polaris code care guide for replacement will ensure a lasting fix.

Frequently Asked Questions About 0 746 4 Polaris Code

Can I still ride my Polaris with code 0 746 4?

It’s not recommended. While the machine may run, it will perform poorly, use excessive fuel, and you risk engine damage. The ECU is running the cooling fan constantly to be safe, but it’s guessing at the fuel mixture, which isn’t healthy for the engine long-term.

How much does it cost to fix this code?

One of the biggest benefits of 0 746 4 polaris code diagnosis at home is the cost savings. A new ECT sensor typically costs between $25 and $60. If you do the labor yourself, that’s your total cost. Taking it to a dealer could easily run you $150-$250 or more after diagnostic fees and labor.

What if I replace the sensor and the code comes back?

If the code returns immediately, the problem is almost certainly in the wiring harness or the connector. Go back to Step 3 of the diagnostic guide and meticulously check the wiring for continuity and any shorts to ground.

Final Thoughts: You’ve Got This!

Facing a check engine light like the 0 746 4 polaris code can be intimidating, but it doesn’t have to end your adventure. By following a logical, step-by-step process, you can accurately diagnose the issue, perform the repair, and get back to what you love doing.

Tackling these jobs yourself not only saves a significant amount of money but also builds your skills and confidence as a DIY mechanic. Remember to work safely, take your time, and don’t be afraid to consult your service manual.

Now, grab your tools and show that code who’s boss. Happy wrenching, and we’ll see you on the trails!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.