There’s nothing that kills the thrill of a ride faster than a flashing check engine light. You’re geared up, ready to hit the trail, and your machine decides it has other plans. If your Polaris is throwing a 1347 polaris code, you’re likely feeling that exact frustration—stuck in gear, in limp mode, or just plain confused about what’s wrong.
You’ve come to the right place. At FatBoysOffroad, we believe in empowering owners to handle their own rigs. We promise this comprehensive guide will demystify that pesky code and give you the confidence to tackle it yourself.
In this article, we’ll break down exactly what the 1347 code means, the common symptoms to watch for, the tools you’ll need for the job, and a step-by-step process to diagnose and fix the root cause. Let’s get you back on the dirt.
What Exactly is the 1347 Polaris Code? Decoding the F-N-R Fault
At its core, the Polaris fault code 1347 points to a F-N-R (Forward-Neutral-Reverse) Switch Signal Correlation Fault. In plain English, your machine’s brain, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), is getting conflicting or nonsensical information about what gear you’re in.
Think of it like this: the gear selector switch tells the ECU, “Hey, we’re in Neutral!” but another part of the system might be signaling that it’s in High gear. When the ECU sees this mismatch, it gets confused and throws the 1347 code as a cry for help.
This isn’t just an annoying light. This fault directly impacts your machine’s performance and safety. The ECU relies on knowing the correct gear to manage engine power, enable starting (only in Park or Neutral), and display the right information on your dash. This complete 1347 polaris code guide will walk you through sorting it out.
Common Symptoms and Problems with 1347 Polaris Code
When this code pops up, it rarely comes alone. Your machine will usually give you some clear, and often frustrating, signs that something is wrong with the gear position signal. Understanding these symptoms is the first step in confirming your diagnosis.
Here are the most common problems you’ll encounter:
- Check Engine Light (CEL): This is the most obvious indicator. The light will illuminate on your dash, often accompanied by the code number.
- Incorrect Gear Display: Your digital display might show the wrong gear, flash between gears, or simply go blank where the gear indicator (P, R, N, L, H) should be.
- Limp Mode: To protect the transmission from damage, the ECU may put the vehicle into “limp mode,” severely restricting engine power and speed.
- Stuck in Gear: You might find the machine is physically or electronically locked in a single gear and won’t respond to you moving the shifter.
- No-Start Condition: For safety, most Polaris vehicles will only start in Park or Neutral. If the ECU can’t confirm the machine is in one of those gears, it will prevent the engine from cranking.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need for the Job
Before you tear into your machine, let’s get your workbench set up. The good news is that you don’t need a full professional shop to tackle this job. A few basic hand tools and testing supplies will get you through it. This is one of the benefits of 1347 polaris code diagnosis—it’s very DIY-friendly.
Essential Tools:
- Basic Socket & Wrench Set: You’ll need metric sizes to remove panels and unbolt the sensor.
- Digital Multimeter: This is your most important tool for this job. It allows you to test the sensor and wiring to find the exact point of failure.
- Torx Bit Set: Many Polaris models use Torx screws for body panels and components.
- Electrical Contact Cleaner: A spray cleaner designed to safely remove dirt, oil, and corrosion from electrical connections without leaving a residue.
- Dielectric Grease: A non-conductive, silicone-based grease that seals out moisture and prevents corrosion in electrical connectors.
- Clean Rags or Shop Towels: To clean up any grime you encounter.
Potential Parts:
- New Gear Position Sensor: Also known as a gear selector switch. This is the most common culprit. Always use your VIN to order the correct part for your specific year and model.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Fix the 1347 Polaris Code
Alright, let’s get our hands dirty. Follow these steps methodically. We’ll start with the simplest and most common fixes first before moving to more complex diagnostics. This approach to how to 1347 polaris code repair will save you time and money.
H3: Safety First: Pre-Check Routine
Before you do anything else, make sure your work area is safe. Park your machine on a level surface, engage the parking brake, turn the engine completely off, and remove the key from the ignition.
H3: Step 1 – The Visual Inspection (The 60-Second Check)
Your eyes are your first diagnostic tool. Locate the gear position sensor on the transmission case. The exact location varies, but it’s typically on the side of the transmission where the shift linkage connects.
Look for obvious issues. Is the electrical connector fully seated? Are any wires pulled tight, frayed, or melted against the exhaust? Is the area packed with mud, grass, or debris? Sometimes a thorough cleaning is all it takes.
H3: Step 2 – Clean the Connector
This is one of the most effective 1347 polaris code tips we can offer. More often than not, a poor connection is the root cause, especially after a muddy or wet ride.
- Carefully disconnect the sensor’s electrical harness. There’s usually a small tab you need to press to release it.
- Inspect both the sensor side and the harness side of the plug. Look for any green or white crusty corrosion, bent pins, or signs of water intrusion.
- Generously spray both ends with your electrical contact cleaner. Let it air dry completely for a few minutes.
- Apply a small dab of dielectric grease to the inside of the harness-side connector. This will help seal out moisture and ensure a solid connection for the future.
- Reconnect the plug firmly until you hear it click. Clear the code and see if it returns. If not, you’ve just saved yourself a lot of time!
H3: Step 3 – Test the Sensor with a Multimeter
If cleaning didn’t solve it, it’s time to test the sensor itself. This is where your multimeter becomes your best friend.
The gear position sensor works by changing its electrical resistance for each gear. You’ll need to consult your vehicle’s service manual for the exact pinout and resistance (Ohm/Ω) values, but the general process is the same.
Set your multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting. With the sensor still connected to the machine but the key on (engine off), you can sometimes back-probe the wires. A better way is to disconnect it and probe the pins directly on the sensor. Have a helper shift the machine through each gear (P-R-N-L-H) while you watch the multimeter. You should see a distinct and steady resistance value for each gear. If the reading jumps erratically, stays at zero, or shows “OL” (Open Loop), the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.
H3: Step 4 – Replace the Gear Position Sensor
If your testing confirmed a bad sensor, replacement is usually straightforward. The sensor is typically held on by two small bolts. Simply unbolt the old one, making sure to save any o-rings or seals.
Clean the mounting surface on the transmission case before installing the new sensor. Ensure the new seal is properly seated, bolt it down to the manufacturer’s specified torque, and plug in the freshly cleaned and greased electrical connector.
Best Practices to Prevent Future Fault Codes
Fixing the problem is great, but preventing it from happening again is even better. Adopting a few simple habits can save you from future headaches on the trail. This is the core of a good 1347 polaris code care guide.
Think of this as a sustainable 1347 polaris code strategy—a way to ensure a long-term, reliable repair. After every major wash or muddy ride, take a moment to inspect key electrical connectors, including the gear position sensor. A quick shot of contact cleaner and a re-application of dielectric grease every few months is excellent preventative maintenance.
Also, take a look at your wiring harnesses. Use zip ties to secure any loose wires away from moving parts, sharp edges, or hot exhaust components. These 1347 polaris code best practices will drastically improve your machine’s electrical reliability.
Frequently Asked Questions About the 1347 Polaris Code
Can I still ride my Polaris with a 1347 code?
We strongly advise against it. While you might be able to limp it home, you risk the machine getting stuck in gear or shutting down completely, potentially leaving you stranded far from the trailhead. It’s a safety and reliability issue that should be addressed promptly.
How much does it cost to fix a 1347 code?
The cost varies greatly. If you follow this guide and do it yourself, your only cost is parts. A new sensor typically runs between $50 and $150. If you take it to a dealer, you can expect to pay for diagnostic time and labor, which could bring the total bill to $250-$400 or more.
Will just clearing the code fix the problem?
Absolutely not. Clearing the code only turns the check engine light off temporarily. If the underlying electrical fault (a bad sensor, corroded connector, or broken wire) isn’t fixed, the ECU will detect the fault again within seconds of starting the machine, and the code will come right back.
Tackling a diagnostic code like this can seem intimidating, but by following a logical process of inspecting, cleaning, testing, and replacing, you can solve the problem with confidence. You’ve now got the knowledge to turn that frustrating fault code into a trail-ready fix.
Now, grab your tools, get out there, and show that code who’s boss. Stay safe and happy riding!
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