There’s nothing that grinds a weekend to a halt faster than a kid’s ATV that refuses to start. You turn the key, hit the starter, and all you get is the whirring sound of the engine turning over, but no satisfying roar to life. If you’re facing this, you’ve likely got a classic case of a 2007 can am ds 90 no spark issue.
I know how frustrating that silence can be. But don’t start loading it onto the trailer for a trip to the shop just yet. With a few basic tools and a logical approach, you can absolutely track down the culprit yourself, saving a pile of cash and gaining some serious garage cred in the process.
This guide promises to walk you through the entire diagnostic process from start to finish. We’ll cover the essential tools, explain how the ignition system works in simple terms, provide a step-by-step troubleshooting plan, and highlight the most common problems we see in the shop. Let’s get that little ripper firing on all cylinders again.
First Things First: Safety and Essential Tools
Before we dive into the wiring, let’s talk about setting ourselves up for success. A little preparation here prevents big headaches—and potential injuries—later. This is one of the most important 2007 can am ds 90 no spark best practices you can follow.
Safety Isn’t Optional
Working on any vehicle’s electrical system requires respect. These systems can pack a surprising punch, so always put safety first.
- Disconnect the Battery: Before you unplug any major components, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. This prevents accidental shorts that can fry sensitive electronics.
- Work Smart: Ensure you’re in a well-lit and ventilated area. Keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.
- No Guesswork: Follow the steps logically. Randomly unplugging connectors can create more problems than you started with.
Your Diagnostic Toolkit
You don’t need a professional shop’s worth of equipment, but a few key tools will make this job infinitely easier. Having the right gear is a cornerstone of any good 2007 can am ds 90 no spark guide.
- Inline Spark Tester: This is your best friend for this job. It plugs in between your spark plug and the plug wire and flashes a light if spark is present. It’s safer and more reliable than the old-school method.
- Multimeter: A basic digital multimeter (also called a DVOM) is non-negotiable for testing electrical components like the stator and ignition coil. You’ll use it to measure resistance (Ohms) and voltage.
- Basic Hand Tools: You’ll need a spark plug socket, a ratchet, and a set of screwdrivers to access the various components.
- Service Manual: Highly recommended. A factory service manual for your 2007 DS 90 will provide the exact resistance specs for your ignition coil and stator, taking all the guesswork out of testing.
Understanding Your DS 90’s Ignition System: How Spark is Made
To fix a no spark issue, you need to know how spark is created in the first place. It’s a simple, logical chain of events. When one link in the chain breaks, the whole system fails.
Think of it like this:
Stator ➔ CDI Box ➔ Ignition Coil ➔ Spark Plug Wire ➔ Spark Plug
- The Stator is like a mini generator inside your engine. As the engine cranks, magnets fly past coils of wire, generating AC electrical voltage.
- The CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) Box is the brain. It takes the power from the stator, stores it in a capacitor, and at the perfect moment, sends a high-voltage pulse to the ignition coil.
- The Ignition Coil is a transformer. It takes that pulse from the CDI and multiplies the voltage dramatically—from a couple hundred volts to thousands of volts.
- The Spark Plug Wire and Cap carry this high-voltage electricity safely to the spark plug.
- The Spark Plug is the final step. The massive voltage jumps the tiny gap at the end of the plug, creating the powerful spark that ignites the fuel and air mixture in the engine.
Our job is to test each link in this chain to find the broken one.
Your Step-by-Step 2007 can am ds 90 no spark Guide
Let’s get our hands dirty. We’ll start with the easiest and most common culprits first and work our way to the more complex components. Follow these steps in order to avoid chasing your tail.
Step 1: The Spark Plug – The Easiest Check
The spark plug lives a hard life and is often the source of the problem. It’s cheap and easy to check or replace.
- Remove the Plug: Pull the spark plug cap straight off. Use your spark plug socket to unscrew the plug from the cylinder head.
- Inspect It: Is the tip black and sooty (running rich), white and blistered (running lean/hot), or covered in oil? A fouled plug can’t spark properly. If it looks nasty, replace it. They’re inexpensive.
- Test for Spark (The Right Way): Plug the old (or a new) spark plug back into the spark plug cap. Connect your inline spark tester between the plug and the cap. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch the tester. Do you see a consistent, bright flash? If yes, your problem isn’t spark—it’s likely fuel or compression. If you see no flash, continue to the next step.
Pro Tip: The old method of holding the plug against the engine block to check for spark can work, but it can also damage sensitive electronics like the CDI. An inline tester is a $10 tool that can save you a $100+ part.
Step 2: Checking the Kill Switches and Safety Tethers
This is one of the most overlooked areas and a top cause of common problems with 2007 can am ds 90 no spark. These switches are designed to kill the spark for safety, and they can fail or get activated accidentally.
- Handlebar Kill Switch: Make sure the red rocker switch on the handlebar is in the “RUN” position. Toggle it back and forth a few times to make sure the connection is good.
- Key Ignition: Seems obvious, but ensure the key is turned fully to the “ON” position.
- Tether Cord Kill Switch: This is a huge one. The DS 90 has a tether on the rear grab bar. If the cap is pulled off, it kills the spark. Make sure the cap is seated firmly. These switches are notorious for failing internally. You can test it by unplugging the switch from the wiring harness (check your manual for location) and seeing if spark returns. If it does, you’ve found your problem.
Step 3: Inspecting the Ignition Coil and Spark Plug Wire
The coil and wire are the next logical link in the chain. We’re looking for physical damage and testing for electrical integrity.
- Visual Inspection: Look closely at the black plastic body of the ignition coil. Are there any cracks or signs of melting? Check the entire length of the spark plug wire for any cuts, abrasions, or brittle spots. Ensure the cap clicks firmly onto the spark plug.
- Clean Connections: Unplug the small wires going to the coil. Are the terminals clean and free of corrosion? Clean them up with a wire brush or contact cleaner if needed. Make sure the main ground wire from the coil to the frame is clean and tight. A bad ground is a common gremlin.
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Test with a Multimeter: This is where your multimeter shines. You’ll perform two resistance tests (check your service manual for exact specs):
- Primary Resistance: Set your meter to Ohms (Ω). Touch the probes to the two small terminals on the coil. You should see a very low reading, typically around 0.5 to 1.5 Ohms.
- Secondary Resistance: Touch one probe to a primary terminal and the other probe inside the spark plug cap. The reading should be much higher, usually in the range of 5,000 to 15,000 Ohms (5kΩ – 15kΩ).
If either of these readings are way out of spec (especially showing an open circuit or “OL”), your ignition coil is bad and needs to be replaced.
Step 4: The CDI Box – The Brain of the Operation
The CDI is tricky because it’s hard to test directly without specialized equipment. For the DIY mechanic, the CDI is usually diagnosed through a process of elimination. If every other component in the ignition system tests good, the CDI is the most likely culprit.
Before you condemn it, check the large connector plugging into the CDI box. Make sure it’s fully seated and all the pins are clean. A loose or corroded connection here will absolutely cause a no-spark condition.
Step 5: The Stator – The Power Source
The final component to test is the stator. If the stator isn’t producing power, nothing else down the line can work. This is a crucial part of our how to 2007 can am ds 90 no spark diagnostic process.
- Locate the Wires: Find the wires coming out of the left side of the engine case. Follow them up to a connector.
- Resistance Test: With the ATV off, unplug the stator connector. Using your multimeter set to Ohms, you’ll test the resistance between specific wires as outlined in your service manual (e.g., between the source coil wire and ground). An out-of-spec reading points to a failed stator.
- Voltage Test: This is the definitive test. With the connector still unplugged, set your multimeter to AC Volts. Have your helper crank the engine while you test the output from the source coil wire. You should see a healthy AC voltage pulse. No voltage means a dead stator.
The Benefits of a Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Repair Approach
You might wonder what a no-spark issue has to do with being sustainable. The answer lies in the DIY ethos. Fixing a problem like this is the ultimate form of recycling.
Instead of giving up and buying a new machine, you’re extending the life of your current one. This is the heart of a sustainable 2007 can am ds 90 no spark solution. By pinpointing and replacing a single, small component—be it a $10 spark plug or a $50 ignition coil—you are preventing an entire ATV from ending up as waste.
This eco-friendly 2007 can am ds 90 no spark approach not only saves you a significant amount of money but also reduces your environmental footprint. It’s about being a responsible owner and rider, which is what we’re all about here at FatBoysOffroad.
Frequently Asked Questions About a 2007 can am ds 90 no spark
Can a weak battery cause a no spark issue on a DS 90?
Yes, absolutely. While the stator generates its own power for the ignition, the engine needs to crank over at a sufficient speed for the stator to do its job. If your battery is too weak to spin the engine fast enough, the stator won’t produce enough voltage to fire the CDI. Always start with a fully charged battery.
How do I know for sure if my CDI box is bad?
This is a tough one without a dealer’s diagnostic tool. The best way for a DIYer is by proving everything else is good. If you have confirmed the spark plug is good, the kill switches are working, the ignition coil tests within spec, and the stator is putting out the correct voltage, then by process of elimination, the CDI is the only part left. It’s an educated guess, but usually an accurate one.
The tether kill switch seems fine, but could it still be the problem?
Yes. The cap can look perfect and be seated correctly, but the internal switch mechanism can fail or get stuck in the “off” position. The quickest way to test this is to follow its wires to the connector, unplug it to bypass it completely, and then check for spark. If spark returns, you need a new tether switch assembly.
Congratulations on tackling this diagnostic challenge head-on. By following a logical path and testing components one by one, you can solve almost any 2007 can am ds 90 no spark problem. Remember to take your time, be safe, and trust the process.
Getting that engine to fire up with your own two hands is one of the most rewarding feelings there is. Now get that quad running and go make some memories on the trail!
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