There’s a special kind of thrill that comes with owning a machine that defies easy categorization. You know the feeling. The 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS isn’t just a motorcycle, and it’s certainly not a car. It’s a unique blend of stability, performance, and open-road freedom that turns heads everywhere it goes.
But with that unique design comes a unique set of needs. We promise this comprehensive guide will give you the confidence and know-how to keep your Spyder running like the day it rolled off the line. We’re not just scratching the surface; we’re giving you the full toolkit.
In this ultimate 2010 can am spyder rs guide, we’ll cover everything from its core characteristics and the common problems you might face, to a detailed maintenance plan, smart upgrades, and a checklist for buying a used one. Let’s get those hands dirty.
Understanding the 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS: More Than Just a Trike
Before we dive into the nuts and bolts, let’s appreciate what makes this machine tick. The 2010 Spyder RS was designed for the rider who craves sporty performance with the added confidence of a three-wheel stance. It’s built around BRP’s innovative Y-frame design, which provides a stable and planted feel unlike anything else on the road.
At its heart is the venerable Rotax 990 V-Twin engine, a 998cc powerhouse known for its reliability and torque. This is the same engine family that powered Aprilia sportbikes, so it has a serious performance pedigree. You could get it with two transmission options: the traditional SM5 five-speed manual with a clutch, or the popular SE5 five-speed semi-automatic with paddle shifters.
One of the key benefits of 2010 can am spyder rs ownership is the suite of electronic aids, including a Vehicle Stability System (VSS), traction control, and ABS. These systems work together to create a safer, more predictable ride, making it an accessible machine for riders of all skill levels.
Common Problems with 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS and How to Fix Them
No machine is perfect, and after more than a decade on the road, the 2010 Spyder RS has a few well-documented quirks. Knowing what to look for is half the battle. Here are some of the most common issues and how a savvy DIYer can tackle them.
Power Steering Faults (DPS)
One of the most frequent complaints is a “DPS Fault” or “Limp Mode” warning on the dash. The Dynamic Power Steering (DPS) is crucial for easy handling, and when it faults, the steering becomes incredibly heavy.
The Cause: 9 times out of 10, this is due to a weak or failing battery. The Spyder’s complex electronics are extremely sensitive to voltage. A battery that can still start the engine might not provide the stable voltage the DPS module demands.
The Fix: Before anything else, load test your battery. Don’t just check the voltage with a multimeter. If it’s more than a couple of years old, consider a preventative replacement with a high-quality AGM battery. Always keep your Spyder on a battery tender when not in use. If the battery is healthy, the issue could be a faulty steering angle sensor, which may require a trip to the dealer for diagnosis with their B.U.D.S. software.
Overheating in Traffic
The Rotax engine generates significant heat, and the radiator’s placement can make it susceptible to overheating, especially in stop-and-go traffic on a hot day.
The Cause: This is often due to restricted airflow or a failing cooling fan. Debris can easily get packed into the radiator fins, blocking air. The fan relay can also be a point of failure.
The Fix: Regularly inspect and clean the radiator fins with a soft brush and compressed air. Ensure your coolant level is correct (use only the recommended coolant, like the BRP pre-mix). If you notice the temperature climbing and don’t hear the fan kick on, check the fan’s fuse and relay first. An aftermarket fan override switch is a popular mod for riders in hot climates.
Belt and Sprocket Wear
The Spyder uses a carbon-reinforced drive belt instead of a chain. It’s quiet and low-maintenance, but it needs to be monitored.
The Cause: Improper belt tension is the biggest killer. Too loose, and it can skip teeth under hard acceleration. Too tight, and it puts immense strain on the output shaft bearing and sprocket.
The Fix: Invest in a belt tension gauge (the Krikit gauge is a popular choice). Check the tension every few thousand miles, following the procedure in the owner’s manual precisely. While you’re there, inspect the rear sprocket for any “shark-finning” or hooked teeth, which indicates it’s time for a replacement.
Your Essential 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS Care Guide
Proactive maintenance is the secret to a long and happy life for your Spyder. This isn’t just about preventing breakdowns; it’s about safety and performance. Following this 2010 can am spyder rs care guide will keep you on the road and out of the shop.
Pre-Ride Checks: The 5-Minute Safety Ritual
Before every ride, take five minutes to perform a quick walk-around. It’s one of the most important 2010 can am spyder rs best practices.
- Tires & Wheels: Check pressures in all three tires. Look for any cuts, embedded objects, or unusual wear.
- Controls & Brakes: Squeeze the brake lever. Does it feel firm? Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.
- Lights & Electrics: Turn the key on. Test your headlights (high and low beam), turn signals, and brake lights.
- Oil: Check the engine oil level per the manual’s procedure (this often requires running the engine to temperature first).
- Chassis: Glance over the frame, suspension, and belt for anything that looks loose, leaky, or out of place.
Oil Change Step-by-Step
Changing the oil on the Rotax 990 is straightforward. Plan to do it every 3,000-5,000 miles or at least once a season.
You’ll Need: The BRP oil change kit (which includes 5W-40 synthetic oil, filter, O-rings, and crush washers), a torque wrench, and a socket set.
- Warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes to get the oil flowing.
- Remove the two drain plugs: one for the crankcase and one for the oil tank. Let them drain completely.
- Replace the oil filter, making sure to lubricate the new O-ring with fresh oil.
- Clean the magnetic drain plugs, install new crush washers, and torque them to spec. Do not overtighten!
- Refill with the specified amount of oil. Start the engine, let it run for a minute, then shut it off and re-check the level, adding more if needed.
Brake System Maintenance
The Spyder’s linked brake system is powerful, but it needs care. Visually inspect your brake pads for thickness every time you change the oil. If they’re down to about 2mm, it’s time for a new set. Brake fluid should be flushed and replaced every two years, as it absorbs moisture over time, which can lead to a spongy feel and internal corrosion. This is a job you can do yourself with a brake bleeding kit, but if you’re not 100% confident, leave it to a professional.
Performance and Customization: Making Your Spyder Your Own
Stock is great, but making a machine truly yours is part of the fun. The Spyder RS has a healthy aftermarket, allowing you to tailor its performance and comfort to your liking.
Exhaust Upgrades: Finding the Right Growl
The stock exhaust is notoriously quiet. An aftermarket slip-on or full system from brands like Yoshimura, Two Brothers Racing, or Akrapovič can unlock a much more satisfying V-twin rumble and potentially shed a few pounds. Just be aware that a full system may require a fuel controller to run optimally.
Suspension and Handling Tweaks
For riders who love to carve corners, upgrading the suspension is a game-changer. Aftermarket shocks from a company like Elka Suspension can provide a much more controlled and customizable ride. Another popular and effective upgrade is a heavier-duty front sway bar from a brand like BajaRon, which drastically reduces body roll during aggressive cornering.
Best Practices for a Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Ride
Riding responsibly goes beyond the rules of the road. Thinking about a sustainable 2010 can am spyder rs experience means focusing on longevity and efficiency. An eco-friendly 2010 can am spyder rs is one that’s well-maintained and ridden smartly.
Maximizing Fuel Efficiency
The best way to reduce your environmental footprint is to burn less fuel. This comes down to a few simple habits:
- Maintain Proper Tire Pressure: Underinflated tires increase rolling resistance and hurt your MPG.
- Be Smooth: Avoid aggressive, jerky throttle inputs and harsh braking.
- Reduce Weight: Don’t carry unnecessary gear in your front storage compartment (“frunk”).
- Keep it Tuned: A clean air filter and fresh spark plugs ensure the engine is burning fuel as efficiently as possible.
Long-Term Ownership: The Ultimate Green Practice
The most sustainable vehicle is the one you already own. By performing regular maintenance and addressing small issues before they become big ones, you extend the life of your Spyder. This prevents the enormous resource consumption associated with manufacturing a new vehicle. When you do need parts, consider high-quality replacements that are built to last.
Buying a Used 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS: A Buyer’s Guide
Looking to join the three-wheel club? A used 2010 RS can be a fantastic value. Here are some crucial 2010 can am spyder rs tips for inspecting a potential purchase.
What to Look For: The Mechanical Checklist
- Service Records: This is huge. A seller with a thick folder of receipts is one who cared for their machine.
- Cold Start: Insist on starting the engine from cold. Watch for excessive smoke or strange noises.
- Check for Codes: Turn the key on and let the dash cycle. Make sure no warning lights (like Check Engine, DPS, or VSS) stay illuminated.
- Belt and Sprocket: Kneel down and inspect the drive belt and rear sprocket carefully for the wear signs we mentioned earlier.
- Tires: Check the DOT codes on all three tires to see how old they are. Tires older than 5-7 years should be replaced regardless of tread depth.
Red Flags to Watch Out For
Walk away if you see signs of major neglect. Heavy corrosion on fasteners, faded and cracked plastics, or a filthy engine bay suggest a hard life. Be wary of poorly installed aftermarket electrical accessories, as they can wreak havoc on the Spyder’s sensitive CAN-bus system.
Frequently Asked Questions About the 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS
Is the 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS reliable?
Yes, it can be very reliable, but it demands proper maintenance. The Rotax engine is robust, but the machine’s overall reliability is directly tied to battery health and adherence to the service schedule. Neglect these, and you’ll likely run into the common electrical issues.
What’s the difference between the SM5 (manual) and SE5 (semi-auto)?
The SM5 is a traditional manual transmission with a clutch lever on the left handlebar and a foot shifter. The SE5 is a semi-automatic, which means it has no clutch lever. You shift up and down using paddles on the left handgrip, and the machine handles the clutch work for you. The SE5 is far more common and popular for its ease of use.
How often should I change the oil on my Spyder RS?
BRP’s official recommendation is typically around 3,000 miles for the first service and then extended intervals after that. However, most experienced owners and mechanics recommend a much shorter interval of every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, or at least annually, regardless of mileage. Clean oil is the cheapest insurance you can buy for your engine.
The 2010 Can-Am Spyder RS is a truly special machine that offers a riding experience you can’t find anywhere else. It rewards an owner who is willing to learn its systems and stay on top of maintenance. By following this guide, you’re well on your way to enjoying many thousands of miles of trouble-free, three-wheeled adventures.
Grab your tools, ride safe, and enjoy the open road!
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