There’s a unique feeling you get when you settle into the seat of a Can-Am Spyder. It’s not a motorcycle, and it’s not a car—it’s the best of both worlds, offering open-air freedom with a stable, confidence-inspiring footprint. You know that feeling. The 2012 can am spyder rt, in particular, has become a beloved machine for its blend of touring comfort and modern tech.
We promise this guide will be your go-to resource for keeping your machine running like a top. We’re not just going to list specs; we’re going to give you real-world, actionable advice from years of turning wrenches and hitting the road.
In this comprehensive 2012 can am spyder rt guide, we’ll dive deep into essential maintenance, troubleshoot the most common problems you might face, and share some pro tips to make your ownership experience even better. Let’s get started.
Understanding Your 2012 Can-Am Spyder RT: More Than Just a Trike
Before we grab the tools, it’s crucial to appreciate what makes your 2012 Spyder RT tick. This isn’t just any three-wheeler; it’s a sophisticated touring machine built around BRP’s unique Y-frame architecture.
At its heart is the venerable Rotax 998cc V-twin engine. This is a solid, reliable powerplant known for its torque and longevity, provided you treat it right. But the real magic is in the electronics that manage the ride.
The Vehicle Stability System (VSS) is the electronic brain, integrating several subsystems to keep you safe:
- ABS: Anti-lock Braking System prevents wheel lock-up during hard braking.
- TCS: Traction Control System prevents the rear wheel from spinning out on acceleration.
- SCS: Stability Control System with roll-over mitigation helps keep all three wheels planted in aggressive turns.
Understanding that these systems are always working in the background is key to diagnosing many of its unique electronic quirks. The benefits of the 2012 can am spyder rt are its incredible stability and comfort, but that comes from a complex network of sensors that need to be kept in good working order.
Essential Maintenance: Your 2012 Can Am Spyder RT Care Guide
Consistent maintenance is the single most important thing you can do for your Spyder. It prevents breakdowns, ensures safety, and keeps the ride enjoyable. Here are the 2012 can am spyder rt best practices for DIY maintenance.
The Pre-Ride Check: T-CLOCS Is Your Best Friend
Every single time you ride, take two minutes to do a quick walk-around. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s “T-CLOCS” checklist is perfect for this.
- T – Tires & Wheels: Check pressures (18-22 PSI in the front, 26-30 PSI in the rear is a good starting point, but check your manual). Look for any damage or embedded objects.
- C – Controls: Check your levers, pedals, cables, and hoses. Make sure the throttle snaps back cleanly.
- L – Lights & Electrics: Test your headlights (high and low beams), turn signals, and brake lights.
- O – Oil & Fluids: Check your engine oil level when the engine is hot and running at idle. Also, glance at the brake and coolant fluid reservoirs.
- C – Chassis: Look over the frame, suspension, and fasteners. Check your drive belt for any fraying or damage.
- S – Sidestand: Make sure the parking brake engages and disengages properly.
Oil Changes: The Lifeblood of Your Rotax Engine
The Rotax 998 engine requires a specific procedure. Don’t treat it like a car. You’ll need a filter kit (like the BRP #707200222) and about 4.5 quarts of BRP XPS 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil. Don’t cheap out on the oil; it’s formulated for this engine.
- Warm the Engine: Run the Spyder for 10-15 minutes to get the oil warm and circulating.
- Locate Drain Plugs: There are two! One for the crankcase and one for the oil tank. You must drain both to get all the old oil out.
- Replace Filter and Plugs: Replace the oil filter and use new crush washers on the drain plugs to prevent leaks.
- Refill and Check: Add the specified amount of oil, then start the engine and let it run for a minute. Check the level according to the owner’s manual—on a level surface, at operating temperature, while the engine is idling.
Belt Tension and Alignment: A Critical Check
Your Spyder uses a carbon-fiber-reinforced drive belt, not a chain. It’s quiet and low-maintenance, but it must be properly tensioned and aligned. A belt that’s too tight will ruin bearings, and one that’s too loose can skip teeth or get damaged.
Checking tension requires a special tool, like a Krikit tension gauge. If you’re not comfortable with this, it’s one of the few routine jobs we recommend leaving to a dealer. Misalignment is a major cause of common problems with the 2012 can am spyder rt, leading to premature belt wear.
Tackling Common Problems with the 2012 Can Am Spyder RT
Even with perfect maintenance, you might run into a few well-known issues. Knowing what to look for can save you a headache and a trip to the shop. Here’s a look at some common gremlins and how to approach them.
“Limp Mode” and VSS Faults: The Dreaded Gremlin
The most common complaint is the Spyder suddenly going into “limp mode,” where power is drastically reduced. This is a self-preservation function triggered by a fault in the VSS system. The number one culprit? The brake light switch.
This small switch, located near the brake pedal, can get sticky or fail. If the computer sees the brake is applied while you’re on the throttle, it gets confused and throws a fault. It’s an inexpensive part and relatively easy to replace. Always check this first!
Overheating Issues in Stop-and-Go Traffic
The 2012 RT can run hot, especially in slow-moving summer traffic. The engine bay is tight, and airflow is limited. If you see the temperature gauge climbing, here’s what to check:
- Coolant Level: Make sure your coolant reservoir is at the proper level. Low coolant is an easy fix.
- Radiator Fans: When the bike gets hot, you should hear the radiator fans kick on. If you don’t, check the fan fuse first.
- Blocked Radiator: Road debris can clog the fins of the radiator, reducing its effectiveness. Gently clean it with a soft brush and water.
Power Steering (DPS) Faults
A “DPS Fault” message relates to the Dynamic Power Steering. Most often, this isn’t a failure of the unit itself but an issue with the electrical system. The DPS unit draws a lot of power, and it’s very sensitive to voltage.
Before panicking, check your battery. A weak or old battery is the leading cause of DPS faults. Ensure the terminals are clean and tight. If your battery is more than 3-4 years old, consider replacing it as a preventative measure.
Performance and Comfort: Smart Upgrades and Tips
Stock is great, but making your Spyder truly yours is part of the fun. Here are a few simple but effective 2012 can am spyder rt tips for improving your ride.
Improving Your Ride: Suspension and Sway Bars
If you feel the front end has too much body roll in corners, the single best upgrade you can make is an aftermarket sway bar. Companies like BajaRon make a heavy-duty sway bar that dramatically improves handling and makes the machine feel much more planted and stable in turns. It’s a game-changer.
Lighting the Way: LED Upgrades
Upgrading your headlights and running lights to high-quality LEDs is a fantastic safety and cosmetic upgrade. Not only will you see better at night, but you’ll be far more visible to other drivers during the day. This is a simple plug-and-play modification that offers a huge return on investment.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Riding Practices
Part of being a responsible rider is minimizing our impact. A few simple habits can help you achieve a more sustainable 2012 can am spyder rt experience.
Proper Maintenance for Better Fuel Economy
An eco-friendly ride starts with a well-maintained machine. A clean air filter, properly inflated tires, and using the correct grade of oil all contribute to better engine efficiency and improved fuel mileage. This not only saves you money but also reduces emissions.
Responsible Fluid Disposal
When you perform your own oil changes or fluid flushes, never dump the old fluids down the drain or on the ground. Used oil, coolant, and brake fluid are hazardous materials. Store them in a sealed container and take them to your local auto parts store or municipal recycling center. Most will accept them for free.
Frequently Asked Questions About the 2012 Can-Am Spyder RT
What kind of oil does a 2012 Spyder RT take?
The recommended oil is BRP’s own XPS 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil (or a full synthetic equivalent). It’s specifically designed for the Rotax 998 engine. Using a high-quality, motorcycle-specific oil is critical.
How often should I check the drive belt tension?
You should visually inspect the belt before every ride for signs of damage. A full tension check with a gauge should be done at every service interval, or roughly every 3,000 miles. If you ride hard or in dusty conditions, check it more often.
Is the 2012 Can-Am Spyder RT reliable?
Yes, the 2012 model is generally considered very reliable. The Rotax 998 engine is a proven workhorse. Most of the common issues are electronic quirks (like the brake switch) that are well-documented and often simple to fix once you know what to look for.
What does “limp mode” mean on a Spyder?
Limp mode is a safety feature where the engine’s power is significantly reduced by the onboard computer. It happens when a sensor detects a fault in a critical system, like the brakes or throttle. It’s designed to let you get home or to a shop safely without causing further damage.
Your 2012 Can-Am Spyder RT is an incredible machine built for the long haul. By understanding its unique systems and staying on top of maintenance, you’re not just a rider—you’re a true owner. This how to 2012 can am spyder rt guide should give you the confidence to tackle basic service and troubleshoot common issues.
Grab your tools, trust your instincts, and don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty. The road is waiting. Stay safe and keep that three-wheeled grin on your face!
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