So, you’ve got a 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT. You already know it’s a unique machine, blending the open-air thrill of a motorcycle with the confident stability of a three-wheeler. It’s a fantastic touring rig, ready to eat up miles with comfort and style. But you also know that a unique machine comes with its own set of needs and quirks.
We get it. You want to feel confident working on your own ride, understanding what makes it tick and how to keep it running like a top. You don’t want to run to the dealer for every little thing.
That’s why we’re here. This is your definitive, no-nonsense guide to owning and maintaining your 2013 Can Am Spyder RT. We’re going to walk you through the essential maintenance, troubleshoot the most common problems, and share some pro tips to make your ownership experience even better. Let’s get those hands dirty.
Understanding Your 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT: What Makes It Tick?
Before you grab a wrench, it’s crucial to understand the machine you’re working on. The 2013 model year sits in a specific spot in the Spyder’s evolution, primarily defined by its engine and electronics. Knowing the basics will make diagnostics and maintenance much more intuitive.
The Rotax 998 V-Twin Engine: Power and Personality
The heart of your Spyder is the Austrian-built Rotax 998cc V-twin engine. This is a proven, reliable powerplant known for its punchy torque and distinct sound. Unlike the later 1330 ACE inline-three engines, the 998 is a higher-revving engine that likes to be in the upper RPM range.
One of the key benefits of 2013 can am spyder rt ownership is this engine’s robust design. However, it also generates more heat and requires more frequent valve checks than its successor. Keeping up with oil changes is absolutely critical for its longevity.
The Y-Frame Design and Vehicle Stability System (VSS)
The Spyder isn’t a trike; it’s a “Y-architecture” roadster. This design, combined with a sophisticated suite of electronics called the Vehicle Stability System (VSS), is what keeps you planted on the road. The VSS, developed with Bosch, integrates:
- ABS (Anti-lock Braking System): Prevents wheel lock-up during hard braking.
- TCS (Traction Control System): Prevents the rear wheel from spinning on acceleration.
- SCS (Stability Control System): Reduces engine power and/or applies brakes to individual wheels if it detects a potential loss of control or rollover.
This system relies on wheel speed sensors and other inputs. Keeping these sensors clean and your tires properly inflated is a simple but vital part of this system’s maintenance.
Creature Comforts: Touring Features
The “RT” stands for “Roadster Touring,” and it lives up to the name. Your 2013 model likely has features like an adjustable windshield, ample storage, heated grips, and a plush passenger setup. Understanding how these electronic accessories are wired and fused can save you headaches down the road.
Essential Maintenance: A DIY 2013 Can Am Spyder RT Care Guide
Consistent maintenance is the single best thing you can do for your Spyder. It prevents breakdowns, saves you money, and keeps you safe. Here are the 2013 can am spyder rt best practices for any DIY mechanic.
The Pre-Ride Check: Your 5-Minute Safety Ritual
Before every single ride, perform a quick walk-around. It’s the most important habit you can build. This is a fundamental part of any good 2013 can am spyder rt care guide.
- Tires: Check the pressure in all three tires. The front tires should be around 18-22 PSI, and the rear around 28-30 PSI. Always check your owner’s manual for exact specs. Look for any signs of damage or embedded objects.
- Lights & Signals: Turn the key on and test your headlights (high and low beam), turn signals, brake lights, and horn.
- Fluids: Glance underneath for any new drips or puddles. Check the brake fluid reservoirs (one for the front, one for the rear) to ensure fluid is between the min/max lines.
- Belt: Take a quick look at the drive belt. You’re looking for any cracking, fraying, or missing teeth.
Oil and Filter Changes: The Heartbeat of Your Engine
The Rotax 998 engine shares its oil between the engine and the transmission. This means the oil works hard and needs to be changed regularly—every 3,000 to 4,500 miles, or at least once a year.
You’ll need a BRP Oil Change Kit (part #779251), which includes the correct 5W-40 synthetic oil, a new filter, O-rings, and drain plug crush washers. A torque wrench is non-negotiable here. Overtightening the drain plugs can strip the threads in the engine case, leading to a very expensive repair.
Checking and Topping Off Fluids
Beyond engine oil, you need to monitor two other critical fluids.
- Coolant: The 998 engine can run hot, especially in traffic. The coolant overflow bottle is located on the left side of the machine. Check the level when the engine is cold. Use only BRP’s pre-mixed coolant or a compatible long-life, silicate-free coolant for aluminum engines.
- Brake Fluid: Your Spyder uses DOT 4 brake fluid. The fluid level will drop slightly as your brake pads wear. If you need to add more than a tiny amount, it’s a sign you should inspect your brake pads for wear.
Belt Tension and Inspection: A Critical Drivetrain Check
Unlike a chain, the Spyder’s carbon-fiber-reinforced belt requires minimal maintenance, but it does need to be inspected and tensioned correctly. A loose belt can skip teeth under load, and a tight belt puts excessive strain on bearings. You’ll need a belt tension gauge for this. Proper tension ensures a smooth, quiet ride and maximizes the belt’s lifespan.
Common Problems with 2013 Can Am Spyder RT and How to Fix Them
Even with perfect maintenance, you might encounter a few well-known issues. Knowing what they are is half the battle. This section is your go-to 2013 can am spyder rt guide for troubleshooting.
“Limp Mode”: Understanding and Diagnosing the Dreaded Warning
One of the most common complaints is the Spyder entering “Limp Mode,” where engine power is drastically reduced. This is a self-preservation function triggered by a fault code. The cause can be anything from a faulty sensor to a simple electrical issue.
Your first step is to check the code. You can do this by pressing the “mode,” “set,” and turn signal buttons in a specific sequence (check online forums for the exact method). Common culprits include a faulty brake light switch, a bad wheel speed sensor, or even a low battery. Don’t panic; investigate the code first.
Power Steering Faults (DPS): What to Look For
The Dynamic Power Steering (DPS) makes maneuvering the Spyder at low speeds a breeze. If you get a “DPS Fault” warning, steering will become very heavy. This is often caused by low voltage. Before anything else, check your battery. Ensure the terminals are clean and tight, and have the battery load-tested. A weak battery is the number one cause of electrical gremlins on a Spyder.
Overheating Issues: Keeping Your Cool on the Road
If your temperature gauge starts climbing into the red, pull over safely and shut the engine off immediately. The most common cause is a failed radiator fan relay or a blown fuse for the fan. Check the fuse box first. You can also test the fan by carefully applying 12V directly to its terminals to see if it spins.
Electrical Gremlins: Fuses, Relays, and Battery Health
Many seemingly complex issues trace back to simple electrical problems. Familiarize yourself with the location of the fuse boxes (there are a few). Always carry spare fuses. As mentioned, a healthy, fully charged battery is paramount. The complex electronics on the Spyder are very sensitive to voltage drops.
Pro Tips for a Better Ride: Getting the Most Out of Your Spyder
Once you’ve mastered the basics, a few extra 2013 can am spyder rt tips can transform your riding experience.
Tire Pressure: The Most Overlooked Performance Factor
We mentioned it in the pre-ride check, but it’s worth repeating. Tire pressure affects everything: handling, stability, tire wear, and comfort. Experiment within the recommended range to find what feels best for your weight and riding style. A few PSI can make a huge difference.
Suspension Adjustments for a Smoother Journey
The RT models have an air-adjustable rear suspension. Don’t just set it and forget it. Add more pressure when carrying a passenger or heavy luggage to prevent bottoming out. Reduce pressure when riding solo for a plusher ride. This simple adjustment, made via a switch on the handlebars, is a powerful tool for ride comfort.
Upgrades Worth Considering
While the stock Spyder is great, a few mods can make it even better. Consider upgrading to brighter LED headlights for better visibility, adding a driver backrest for long-haul comfort, or installing a sway bar from a company like BajaRon for a dramatic improvement in cornering stability.
The Eco-Friendly Rider: Sustainable 2013 Can Am Spyder RT Practices
Being a DIY mechanic also means being a responsible steward of the environment. Adopting a few eco-friendly 2013 can am spyder rt habits is easy and important.
Proper Fluid Disposal: Being a Responsible DIYer
Never, ever dump used oil, coolant, or brake fluid down the drain or on the ground. These are toxic substances. Store them in sealed containers and take them to your local auto parts store or municipal recycling center. Most places will accept them for free.
Maximizing Fuel Efficiency Through Smart Riding
A sustainable 2013 can am spyder rt experience involves getting the most from every gallon. Avoid rapid acceleration and hard braking. Maintain a steady speed on the highway. And, as we’ve stressed, keep your tires properly inflated—underinflated tires create drag and waste fuel.
Frequently Asked Questions About the 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT
What is the best oil to use in a 2013 Spyder RT?
The manufacturer strongly recommends using BRP’s XPS 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil. If you can’t get it, look for a high-quality motorcycle-specific 5W-40 synthetic oil with a JASO MA2 rating. Do not use standard car oil, as it lacks the necessary additives for the shared transmission clutch.
How often should the drive belt be replaced?
BRP doesn’t give a specific mileage interval for belt replacement; it’s based on inspection. However, many experienced owners recommend replacing it proactively around 40,000-50,000 miles as a preventative measure. A broken belt will leave you stranded.
Can I use a regular car tire on the rear of my Spyder?
This is a popular but controversial modification known as going to the “Dark Side.” While some riders report longer tire life and good performance, it is not approved by BRP and can have unknown effects on the VSS and handling dynamics. Proceed with extreme caution and do thorough research if you consider this.
Is the SE5 semi-automatic transmission reliable?
Yes, the SE5 (Semi-Automatic 5-speed) transmission is generally very reliable. Most issues are not with the transmission itself but with the sensors or electronics that control it. Keeping your battery healthy and your oil clean are the best ways to ensure its longevity.
Owning a 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT is a rewarding experience. It’s a machine that invites you to explore the open road in comfort and safety. By taking a hands-on approach to its maintenance, you not only save money but also build a deeper connection with your ride. You learn its sounds, its feel, and its personality.
Follow this guide, stay on top of the basics, and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Your Spyder will reward you with thousands of miles of trouble-free adventure. Now, grab your tools and get to know your machine. Stay safe and happy riding!
- 2006 Honda Accord Serpentine Belt Diagram – Your Ultimate DIY - December 18, 2025
- 2008 Honda Accord 3.5 Serpentine Belt Diagram – Your Ultimate DIY - December 18, 2025
- 2005 Honda Accord Fuse Box Location – Your Complete Guide To - December 18, 2025