There’s nothing quite like the feeling of hitting the trail in your 2013 Polaris Ranger 800. It’s a workhorse, a trail buddy, and a reliable partner for adventure. But let’s be honest, even the toughest machines have their off days. If you’re here, you’ve likely run into a few frustrating hiccups and are searching for answers.
You’re in the right place. We’ve seen it all in the shop and on the trail, and we promise this guide will cut through the noise. We’ll give you the straight scoop on the most common 2013 polaris ranger 800 problems and provide a clear, step-by-step roadmap to diagnose and fix them yourself.
In this guide, we’ll dive deep into engine sputtering, mysterious electrical gremlins, drivetrain woes, and more. You’ll learn how to spot the symptoms, what tools you’ll need, and when it’s time to tackle the job or call in a pro. Let’s get your Ranger back to peak performance.
Engine and Fuel System Headaches: Sputtering, Stalling, and No-Starts
The 760cc twin-cylinder engine in the Ranger 800 is a solid power plant, but it’s often the source of the most common complaints. When it starts acting up, the issue usually traces back to fuel delivery or a faulty sensor. Here’s a breakdown of what to look for.
The Infamous Fuel Pump Failure
One of the most widely reported 2013 polaris ranger 800 problems is a weak or failing fuel pump. The symptoms can be frustratingly intermittent at first, making them hard to diagnose.
Symptoms to watch for:
- Difficulty starting, especially when the engine is warm.
- Bogging down or sputtering under acceleration.
- A complete no-start condition where you can’t hear the pump prime (a faint hum) when you turn the key.
How to Diagnose It: The best way to confirm a bad fuel pump is with a fuel pressure test. You’ll need an inline fuel pressure gauge. The 2013 Ranger 800 should have a steady 39 PSI (+/- 3 PSI). If your pressure is low, dropping, or non-existent, the fuel pump is your likely culprit.
Clogged Injectors and Dirty Fuel Filters
Your Ranger’s fuel system is a closed loop. If any part of it gets clogged, performance suffers. A dirty fuel filter or gummed-up injectors can mimic the symptoms of a bad fuel pump.
The Fix: Start with the easiest thing first. Replace the in-tank fuel filter. It’s part of the fuel pump assembly and is often neglected. If that doesn’t solve it, you may need to have your fuel injectors professionally cleaned or replaced. Running a quality fuel system cleaner through a tank of gas can sometimes help as a preventative measure.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and T-BAP Sensor Gremlins
These two sensors feed critical information to the ECU. The TPS tells the computer how far you’re pressing the throttle, and the T-BAP (Temperature Barometric Air Pressure) sensor measures the air going into the engine.
When they fail, you’ll get erratic behavior. This includes a rough or hanging idle, backfiring on deceleration, and poor throttle response. A common cause is chafed wiring in the harness leading to these sensors. This is one of the most important 2013 polaris ranger 800 problems tips: always check the wiring harness!
Common Problems with 2013 Polaris Ranger 800 Problems in the Drivetrain
The drivetrain takes a beating, especially if you’re hauling heavy loads or tackling tough terrain. Keeping it in top shape is key to reliability. Here are the most frequent issues we see.
Clutch Wear and Tear: Shuddering and Slipping
The Ranger’s CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) clutch system is brilliant but it’s also a wear item. The primary and secondary clutches work together with a drive belt to transfer power.
Signs of a worn clutch:
- A shudder or jerk when taking off from a stop.
- A slipping sensation, where engine RPMs increase but your speed doesn’t.
- Noticeable flat spots on the clutch rollers or grooves in the clutch sheaves.
What to Do: Pop the clutch cover off and inspect your drive belt for glazing, cracks, or missing cogs. A worn belt is a common cause of slipping. While you’re in there, check the primary and secondary clutches for smooth operation and signs of wear. Rebuilding a clutch is a straightforward job for a DIYer with the right tools, like a clutch puller and a spring compressor.
CV Axle and Boot Failures
A torn CV boot is a ticking time bomb. Once dirt and water get into the constant velocity joint, it’s only a matter of time before it fails, leaving you with a clicking noise on turns and, eventually, a broken axle.
Best Practice: Make inspecting your CV boots a part of your pre-ride check. Look for any rips, tears, or grease splattered on the A-arms. If you catch a torn boot early, you can often just replace the boot and re-pack the joint with grease, saving you the cost of a whole new axle.
Electrical Gremlins: Chasing Wires and Dead Batteries
Electrical issues can be the most maddening of all 2013 polaris ranger 800 problems. They often appear out of nowhere and can be tricky to trace. However, most issues boil down to a few known culprits.
Voltage Regulator Woes
Polaris UTVs from this era are known for voltage regulator failures. This component converts AC power from the stator into DC power to run the vehicle and charge the battery.
When it fails, it can either undercharge or overcharge the battery. An undercharging system leads to a dead battery. An overcharging system is more dangerous—it can boil the acid in your battery, damage the ECU, and burn out your headlights. If your battery is getting hot or you smell sulfur (rotten eggs), shut the machine down immediately.
The Test: Use a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals while the Ranger is running at a high idle. A healthy system should read between 13.8 and 14.4 volts DC. Anything significantly higher or lower points to a bad regulator.
The Dreaded Wire Chafing
This is a big one. The main wiring harness on the Ranger 800 is often routed tightly along the frame. Over time, vibrations can cause the harness to rub against the metal, wearing through the insulation and causing shorts.
A common trouble spot is where the harness runs along the frame under the driver’s seat. Carefully inspect the entire harness for any signs of wear. If you find a chafed spot, repair the wires and protect the harness with a durable loom or wrap. This is one of the most valuable things to know in any 2013 polaris ranger 800 problems guide.
A Proactive 2013 Polaris Ranger 800 Problems Care Guide
The best way to deal with problems is to prevent them. A little proactive maintenance goes a long way in keeping your Ranger reliable and ready for action. Adopting these best practices will save you headaches down the road.
The Importance of a Regular Maintenance Schedule
Don’t wait for something to break. Follow the service intervals in your owner’s manual. This means regular oil changes, air filter cleanings, and differential fluid swaps. A well-lubricated machine is a happy machine.
Create a simple checklist:
- Before Every Ride: Check tire pressure, oil level, and coolant level. Visually inspect CV boots and the wiring harness.
- Every 25 Hours: Clean the air filter. Check and clean battery terminals.
- Every 50 Hours: Change the engine oil and filter. Inspect the drive belt.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Maintenance Tips
Being a responsible off-roader means taking care of the machine and the environment. When performing maintenance, always use a drain pan to catch old fluids like oil and coolant. Take these to your local auto parts store or recycling center for proper disposal—never dump them on the ground.
Choosing high-quality, long-lasting replacement parts is also a form of sustainable 2013 polaris ranger 800 problems management. Better parts last longer, creating less waste and ensuring your Ranger runs efficiently, which is better for everyone.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 Polaris Ranger 800 Problems
Why does my 2013 Ranger 800 backfire when I let off the gas?
Backfiring on deceleration is almost always a sign of a lean fuel condition or an issue with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Check for a dirty fuel filter or failing fuel pump first. If fuel pressure is good, inspect the wiring to the TPS for chafing or damage.
How often should I change the drive belt on my Ranger 800?
There’s no hard-and-fast mileage rule, as it depends heavily on your riding style. A good rule of thumb is to inspect the belt every 50 hours of use and plan on replacing it every 1000-1500 miles as preventative maintenance. If you do a lot of heavy towing or aggressive trail riding, inspect it more frequently.
Is the 2013 Polaris Ranger 800 a reliable UTV?
Absolutely. Despite the common issues listed here, the 2013 Ranger 800 is a tough and capable machine. Like any vehicle, it has its known weak points. By being aware of them and performing regular, proactive maintenance, you can build an incredibly reliable rig that will serve you well for years.
Tackling these common issues is well within the reach of a careful DIYer. By understanding how these systems work, you can save a ton of money on shop bills and gain the satisfaction of fixing your own ride. So grab your tools, get those knuckles dirty, and keep your Ranger tearing up the trails.
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