2013 Polaris Rzr 900 Xp Check Engine Codes

There’s no feeling quite like it. You’re deep on a trail, miles from the truck, and that dreaded amber check engine light (CEL) suddenly flashes to life on your RZR’s dash. Your heart sinks. Is it serious? Is my ride over? We’ve all been there. That little light can turn a perfect day of riding into a stressful limp back to civilization.

But what if I told you that light isn’t a death sentence? It’s a message. Your RZR is trying to tell you exactly what’s wrong. This guide promises to teach you how to listen. We’ll show you how to pull and understand the 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP check engine codes right from your instrument cluster—no expensive scanner needed.

Get ready to dive into the most common fault codes, what they mean for your machine, and how you can confidently tackle many of the repairs yourself. You’ll save money, learn more about your rig, and get back on the trail faster and with more confidence than ever before.

What That Blinking Check Engine Light on Your RZR 900 XP Really Means

Before we grab any tools, let’s understand what’s happening. That check engine light is connected to your RZR’s brain, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), also known as the Engine Control Module (ECM). This powerful little computer constantly monitors dozens of sensors all over your engine and drivetrain.

When a sensor reading goes outside its normal operating range—say, the engine is running too hot or the throttle isn’t responding as expected—the ECU logs a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) and illuminates the light to get your attention. Think of it as your RZR’s built-in diagnostic system.

It’s your first clue in solving a puzzle. Ignoring it can lead to poor performance, bad fuel economy, or even catastrophic engine damage. Addressing it properly is one of the most important best practices for any RZR owner.

How to Read 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP Check Engine Codes (No Scanner Needed!)

Here’s the best part: Polaris built a simple diagnostic mode right into your RZR’s digital display. This is the ultimate guide on how to 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP check engine codes without any special equipment. Just follow these steps carefully.

Safety First: Park your RZR on level ground. Put it in Park and turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
Access Diagnostic Mode: Press and hold the mode/override button on the left side of the instrument cluster.
Turn the Key: While still holding the button, turn the ignition key to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
Cycle Through: Continue holding the button. The gauge will cycle through its self-test. Watch the display screen. You will see “dIAC” appear. Once you see it, you can release the button.
Navigate the Codes: Now, use short presses of the mode/override button to cycle through the menu. You’re looking for the “Check Engine” or error code screen.
Read the Code: The screen will display any active trouble codes. They typically show up in a two-part format: an SPN (Suspect Parameter Number) and an FMI (Failure Mode Identifier). For example, you might see SPN 110 and FMI 3.
Document Everything: Write down every code exactly as it appears. This information is critical for accurate troubleshooting. If you have multiple codes, write them all down in the order they appear.

Once you have your codes, you can turn the key OFF. The diagnostic mode is now exited. See? Simple. Now let’s figure out what those numbers mean.

Decoding the Most Common Problems: A RZR 900 XP Code Guide

You’ve got your codes, now it’s time to play detective. While there are hundreds of potential codes, a handful are responsible for the vast majority of issues. Here’s a breakdown of the common problems with 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP check engine codes and what to do about them.

Throttle and Pedal Position Faults (SPN 51, 52, 91)

These codes are incredibly common and relate to the drive-by-wire throttle system. They often point to issues with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on the engine’s throttle body or the sensor in your gas pedal assembly.

Symptoms: Limp mode (reduced power), erratic or high idle, poor throttle response, or stalling.
What to Check: Start by inspecting the wiring harnesses to both the gas pedal and the throttle body. Look for chafed wires, loose connections, or moisture. A common culprit is the T-MAP sensor connector on the intake getting dirty or wet. Clean it with electrical contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease.
The Fix: Sometimes, just cleaning the connections is enough. If the problem persists, you may need to test the sensor’s voltage with a multimeter or replace the sensor itself.

Engine Misfire Codes (SPN 651 – 654)

An engine misfire means one of your cylinders isn’t firing correctly. The SPN number will tell you which cylinder is the problem (651 for cylinder 1, 652 for cylinder 2, and so on). This is one of the most critical codes to address immediately.

Symptoms: Rough running, loss of power, shaking, and the smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust.
What to Check: The usual suspects are spark plugs, spark plug wires (boots), or the ignition coil. Pull the spark plug for the indicated cylinder. Is it fouled, wet with fuel, or worn out? Check the plug boot for cracks or corrosion.
The Fix: Often, a new set of NGK spark plugs is all it takes. If that doesn’t work, inspect the ignition coil and its wiring. A persistent misfire could also indicate a fuel injector problem or, in worst-case scenarios, a loss of engine compression.

Engine Temperature and Overheating Codes (SPN 110)

Your RZR’s health depends on staying cool. An SPN 110 code points to a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit. The FMI number will tell you more: FMI 3 or 4 usually means a sensor/wiring issue, while FMI 0 or 15 means the engine is genuinely overheating.

Symptoms: The temperature light may be on, the cooling fan might not be running when it should (or running all the time), or the engine is physically overheating (steam, boiling coolant).
What to Check: IMMEDIATELY SHUT OFF THE ENGINE IF IT IS OVERHEATING. Let it cool completely. First, check your coolant level in the radiator and overflow bottle. Look for mud or debris blocking the radiator fins. With the key on (engine off), does the fan spin? If not, check the fan’s fuse and wiring.
The Fix: Cleaning the radiator is a simple but vital first step. If the coolant is low, top it off and check for leaks. If the fan isn’t working, it could be the fan motor, a relay, or the circuit breaker. If the engine isn’t actually hot but you’re getting the code, the ECT sensor itself is likely faulty and needs replacement.

System Voltage Codes (SPN 168)

Your RZR’s electrical system is its lifeblood. SPN 168 indicates a problem with the charging system voltage. FMI 3 means voltage is too high (over 15.5V), and FMI 4 means voltage is too low (under 12V).

Symptoms: Difficulty starting, dim headlights, battery not holding a charge, or accessories cutting out.
What to Check: Grab a multimeter. Check the battery voltage with the engine off—it should be around 12.5-12.8V. Now, start the engine. At idle, the voltage should climb to 13.8-14.4V. If it’s too low or too high, you have a charging system problem.
The Fix: A low reading often points to a bad voltage regulator/rectifier (a very common failure point) or a failing stator. A high reading almost always means the voltage regulator is bad and needs to be replaced immediately before it fries your battery and ECU.

Essential Tools and Best Practices for Troubleshooting

Having the right approach is just as important as having the right tools. Following a few 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP check engine codes best practices can save you a world of headache.

Your basic diagnostic toolkit should include:

A good quality multimeter
A set of metric sockets and wrenches
A dedicated spark plug socket
Electrical contact cleaner
Dielectric grease
The service manual for your RZR (the ultimate source of truth!)

When you start diagnosing, always begin with the simplest things first. Check battery terminals for tightness. Inspect wiring harnesses for obvious damage. Look for unplugged sensors. You’d be amazed how often the “fix” is something simple and free.

When to DIY and When to Call the Pros

Knowing your limits is the mark of a smart DIYer. The benefits of 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP check engine codes diagnostics are huge, but some jobs are best left to a certified technician.

Good DIY Jobs:

Replacing spark plugs and wires.
Cleaning electrical connections.
Replacing bolt-on sensors like the ECT or T-MAP sensor.
Testing and replacing a battery or voltage regulator.
Cleaning the radiator and checking fluid levels.

Call a Pro When:

You suspect internal engine problems (like a compression issue causing a misfire).
You have persistent electrical gremlins you can’t trace.
The repair requires specialized tools you don’t own (like for clutch or engine work).
You’ve tried the common fixes and are still stuck. There’s no shame in getting expert help!

Sustainable and Eco-Friendly RZR Maintenance Tips

Being a responsible off-roader means taking care of our machines and our trails. A proper 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP check engine codes care guide includes being mindful of the environment.

When you fix a problem like a faulty O2 sensor, you’re not just clearing a code—you’re ensuring your engine burns fuel more efficiently. This improves performance, saves you money on gas, and reduces your emissions on the trail. That’s a win-win.

Furthermore, when performing repairs that involve fluids like oil or coolant, always use a drain pan and dispose of the used fluids properly at an auto parts store or local recycling center. These simple, eco-friendly steps help keep our riding areas beautiful for generations to come.

Frequently Asked Questions About 2013 Polaris RZR 900 XP Check Engine Codes

How do I clear the check engine codes on my RZR 900 XP?

Once you’ve performed a repair, the code will often clear itself after a few successful ride cycles. You can also clear it immediately by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for about 60 seconds. Just be aware this will reset your trip meter and clock.

Can I still ride my RZR with the check engine light on?

It depends on the code. If the machine seems to be running normally, you can likely ride it cautiously back to the truck or shop. However, if the light is flashing or accompanied by symptoms like overheating, severe misfiring, or limp mode, you should stop as soon as it’s safe to do so to prevent further damage.

Why does my check engine light come on and then go away?

This usually indicates an intermittent problem. A common cause is a loose electrical connection, moisture getting into a sensor connector, or a sensor that is just beginning to fail. These can be tricky to diagnose but often point to a wiring issue that needs to be secured.

Does a performance exhaust or tuner cause check engine codes?

Sometimes, yes. Modifying the air/fuel ratio with an exhaust or intake without a proper fuel controller or tuner can cause the ECU to throw codes for running too lean or too rich. Always use a high-quality, matched tuner (like a Power Commander or DynoJet) when making performance modifications to avoid these issues.

That check engine light doesn’t have to be a mystery. By learning how to access and interpret the codes, you’re taking control of your machine’s health. You’re moving from being just a rider to a true owner—one who is more capable, confident, and prepared for whatever the trail throws your way.

So grab your tools, use this guide, and get to know your RZR on a deeper level. Stay safe, wrench smart, and we’ll see you on the trail!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.