2017 Polaris Rzr 900 S Code 6565 13 2 – Your Complete DIY Diagnostic

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of hitting the trail in your RZR, kicking up dust, and leaving the world behind. But there’s also nothing that kills the vibe faster than that dreaded check engine light flashing on your dash, followed by a cryptic string of numbers. You’re looking at your screen, and it’s throwing you a 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2. Your heart sinks a little. Is this a trip-ending problem? An expensive fix? A weekend spent in the garage instead of on the trail?

I get it. We’ve all been there. That code looks intimidating, but I promise you this: you have the power to diagnose and likely fix this issue yourself with basic tools and a little guidance. This isn’t some black magic; it’s just a signal from your RZR’s brain that something is off in a specific circuit, and we’re about to become detectives and track it down.

In this complete guide from FatBoysOffroad, we’re going to break down exactly what this code means, show you the most common culprits, and walk you step-by-step through the process of finding and fixing the problem. Forget the guesswork and the expensive trip to the dealer for now. Let’s get our hands dirty and get you back on the trail.

What Exactly is Code 6565 13 2 on Your RZR 900 S?

First things first, let’s demystify that string of numbers. Polaris uses a standardized system for these fault codes, known as SPN/FMI codes. Understanding them is the first step in our diagnostic journey.

Think of it like a secret message from your RZR’s Engine Control Unit (ECU). Here’s the translation for the 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2:

SPN 6565: This points directly to the Accessory Power Relay Circuit. This is the circuit that provides power to things like your 12V power outlet (cigarette lighter port) and potentially other accessories depending on your setup.
FMI 13 & 2: These numbers give us more detail about the type of fault. FMI 13 means “Out of Calibration,” and FMI 2 means “Data Erratic, Intermittent, or Incorrect.”

So, putting it all together in plain English: Your RZR’s ECU is seeing a voltage or signal from the accessory power relay circuit that it doesn’t like. The signal is either inconsistent, intermittent, or just plain wrong.

This can manifest in a few ways beyond just the check engine light. You might notice your 12V accessory port isn’t working, or in some cases, it can even contribute to limp mode or other strange electrical behavior. This comprehensive 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2 guide will help you pinpoint the cause.

Common Culprits: Why Your RZR is Throwing This Code

Before we start tearing things apart, let’s look at the usual suspects. In the off-road world, electrical issues are often caused by the harsh environment we love to play in—mud, water, vibrations, and dust. More often than not, this code is triggered by something simple.

Here are the most common problems with 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2:

A Faulty Accessory Power Relay: Relays are small electromagnetic switches. They can and do fail over time, especially when exposed to moisture and vibrations.
Corrosion and Loose Connections: This is the number one cause of electrical gremlins on any off-road machine. A little bit of green or white crust on a terminal is all it takes to disrupt a signal.
Damaged Wiring: Wires can get rubbed raw against the frame, pinched by a body panel, or chewed on by a critter. This can cause a short or an open circuit.
A Weak or Failing Battery: A battery that isn’t supplying a stable voltage can make the entire electrical system act erratically, causing sensors and the ECU to throw strange codes.
Bad Ground Connection: The main ground wire from your battery to the frame is critical. If it’s loose or corroded, it can cause a whole host of bizarre electrical issues.

Gearing Up: Tools and Parts You’ll Need for the Job

You don’t need a full professional shop to tackle this job. A few basic hand tools and supplies will get you through 99% of the potential fixes for this code. Having the right gear on hand makes the process smoother and prevents you from having to stop mid-job.

Essential Diagnostic Tools

Digital Multimeter: This is your best friend for any electrical work. You don’t need an expensive one, but it’s non-negotiable for properly testing circuits and components.
Basic Socket & Wrench Set: For removing panels and disconnecting the battery.
Contact Cleaner: A spray can of electrical contact cleaner is perfect for flushing out dirt and corrosion from connectors.
Small Wire Brush or Terminal Cleaner Tool: For gently scrubbing away stubborn corrosion.
Dielectric Grease: This is crucial for preventing future corrosion. It’s a non-conductive grease that seals out moisture.
Flashlight or Headlamp: You’ll be looking in dark corners under the dash or seat.
Zip Ties: For tidying up wiring and preventing future chafing.

Potential Replacement Parts

New Accessory Power Relay: It’s a good idea to have one on hand. They are relatively inexpensive. The standard part is often a 4 or 5-pin “ice cube” relay. Check your service manual or a Polaris parts website for the exact part number for your year.
Spare Fuses: Always have a variety pack of automotive fuses in your toolkit.

How to 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S Code 6565 13 2: A Step-by-Step Fix

Alright, it’s time to get to work. Follow these steps in order. Don’t skip ahead, as the simplest solution is often the right one. This is the core of our how to 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2 process.

Safety First! Disconnect the Battery. Before you touch any wiring, disconnect the negative terminal from your battery. This prevents any accidental shorts that could damage the ECU or other components. This is a non-negotiable first step.
Locate the Fuse Box and Accessory Relay. On most RZR 900 models, the main fuse box is located under the driver’s seat or up under the dash near the steering column. Your owner’s manual will have a diagram showing the exact location and which relay is for the accessory power.
Perform a Thorough Visual Inspection. With your flashlight, look closely at the fuse box and the area around it. Are there any signs of mud or water intrusion? Do you see any obviously loose or disconnected wires? Is there any melted plastic on the fuse box or relay holder? Sometimes the problem is staring right at you.
Check and Clean the Relay Connections. Firmly pull the accessory power relay straight out of its socket. Inspect the metal prongs on the relay and the female terminals inside the socket. Look for any green or white powder (corrosion). Spray both the relay prongs and the socket with your contact cleaner. Use a small wire brush to gently clean the terminals if they are heavily corroded. Let it dry completely.
Pro Tip: The “Swaptronics” Test. This is one of the easiest 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2 tips. Your RZR has several identical relays in the fuse box (e.g., for the fan, fuel pump, etc.). Find one that you know works, like the fan relay, and swap it with the accessory relay. Reconnect your battery, start the RZR, and see if the code clears or changes. If the problem is gone, you have a bad relay. Go buy a new one!
Test the Relay with a Multimeter. If the swap didn’t work, it’s time to test the original relay. A standard relay has pins numbered 85, 86, 30, and 87. Set your multimeter to Ohms (Ω). You should see an open circuit (OL) between pins 30 and 87. Then, apply 12V power to pins 85 and 86 (the coil). You should hear a faint “click,” and the multimeter should now show continuity (near 0 Ω) between pins 30 and 87. If it fails either test, the relay is bad.
Inspect the Wiring Harness. If the relay is good, your problem lies in the wiring. This is the most tedious step. Start at the relay socket and trace the wires as far back as you can. Look for any spots where the harness might rub against the frame, engine, or suspension components. Pay close attention to any areas secured by zip ties, as they can sometimes pinch wires over time.
Check Your Battery and Grounds. Use your multimeter to check the battery voltage. A healthy, resting battery should be around 12.6V or higher. With the RZR running, it should be between 13.5V and 14.5V. If it’s low, your battery or charging system could be the issue. Finally, locate the main ground cable where it attaches to the frame. Unbolt it, clean the contact point and the terminal with a wire brush until they are shiny, and re-tighten it securely.

After performing these steps, re-assemble everything, making sure to apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the relay terminals before plugging it back in. This will seal out moisture and prevent this from happening again.

Best Practices for Preventing Future Electrical Gremlins

Fixing the problem is great, but ensuring it doesn’t come back is even better. Adopting a few simple habits can save you a world of headaches down the road. This is your long-term 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2 care guide.

The Power of Dielectric Grease

Anytime you have an electrical connector apart, put a dab of dielectric grease in it before you put it back together. This creates a moisture-proof seal that is one of the most effective ways to prevent corrosion, which is a core tenet of a sustainable repair strategy.

Regular Electrical Check-ups

After every few rides, especially after a wet or muddy one, take a few minutes to pop the seat or dash panel and visually inspect your fuse box and major connections. Catching moisture or corrosion early is key.

Secure Your Wiring

If you see any wiring harnesses that are loose or look like they could rub against something, secure them with a zip tie. Make sure the zip tie isn’t cinched down so tight that it damages the wires. This is one of the most important 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S code 6565 13 2 best practices for long-term reliability.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 2017 Polaris RZR 900 S Code 6565 13 2

Can I still ride my RZR with code 6565 13 2 active?

It’s not recommended. While the machine might still run, an active electrical fault can be unpredictable. It could cause the machine to enter limp mode unexpectedly or leave you stranded if the fault gets worse. It’s always best to diagnose and fix codes before your next big ride.

How much does it cost to fix this code?

The cost can vary dramatically. If it’s a simple case of a corroded connection, the fix is virtually free—just your time and some contact cleaner. If you need a new relay, you’re typically looking at $10-$25. The cost only goes up if you have a significant wiring issue that requires professional diagnosis at a dealership.

I replaced the relay and cleaned the connections, but the code came back. Now what?

If you’ve ruled out the relay itself, the problem is almost certainly in the wiring, a bad ground, or a weak battery. Go back and meticulously perform steps 7 and 8 from our guide. A persistent intermittent fault is often caused by a wire that is rubbed through and only makes contact with the frame on bumps, or a ground that is just barely tight enough to work sometimes.

Tackling an electrical code can feel daunting, but you’ve just walked through the entire diagnostic process. The majority of these issues are simple fixes that you can absolutely handle in your own garage. By following these steps, you’ve not only saved money but also gained valuable knowledge about how your machine works.

Remember the key takeaways: inspect, clean, test, and prevent. Now that you’re armed with this knowledge, you can approach that check engine light with confidence instead of frustration. Get those tools out, get that code cleared, and get back to what truly matters—enjoying the ride. Stay safe out there!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.