There’s nothing more frustrating. You’re geared up for a day on the trails or getting ready for a tough job, you turn the key on your trusty 2013 Polaris Ranger 500, and instead of that familiar rumble, you get a blinking check engine light. It’s not just on; it’s flashing a pattern at you, a secret code of distress. You’ve got a problem, and your machine is trying to tell you what it is.
I know that feeling of your stomach dropping when a machine won’t cooperate. But don’t start pricing out expensive shop bills just yet. That flashing light is your first clue, and here at FatBoysOffroad, we believe in empowering you to solve your own problems. This comprehensive guide is your roadmap to understanding and fixing the blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger issue, saving you time, money, and a massive headache.
We promise to break down this electrical gremlin into simple, actionable steps. We’ll cover what causes the code, the exact tools you’ll need, a step-by-step diagnostic process to pinpoint the real culprit, common mistakes to avoid, and best practices to keep your Ranger’s fuel system firing on all cylinders. Let’s get that rig running right.
What Exactly is Blink Code 58 on a 2013 Polaris Ranger 500?
First things first, let’s decode the message. When your Ranger flashes its check engine light, it’s communicating an error code. Blink Code 58 specifically translates to: “Fuel Pump Relay Driver Circuit Open/Grounded.”
That sounds technical, but let’s break it down into plain English. Your Ranger’s brain, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), is trying to send a signal to the fuel pump relay. This relay is like a heavy-duty light switch that turns your fuel pump on and off. The “driver circuit” is the wiring path between the ECU and that relay.
So, Code 58 means the ECU has detected a problem on that path. It’s either seeing a break in the wire (an “open” circuit) or a short to ground (a “grounded” circuit). Essentially, the ECU is shouting instructions, but the message isn’t getting through to the relay correctly. This is one of the more common problems with blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger diagnostics.
Symptoms You’ll Experience
Because the fuel pump isn’t getting the right signal, you’ll likely experience one or more of these frustrating symptoms:
- No-Start Condition: The engine cranks but won’t fire up because it’s not getting fuel.
- Stalling: The engine might start and run for a few seconds or minutes, then die unexpectedly.
- Intermittent Power: The Ranger might run fine one minute and then sputter or lose power the next as the connection falters.
- No “Whirr” Sound: When you turn the key to the “On” position, you should hear a faint 2-3 second whirring or humming sound from the fuel tank as the pump primes. If it’s silent, that’s a huge clue.
Common Culprits: What Triggers This Error Code?
Before you start tearing things apart, it’s helpful to know the usual suspects. The problem is rarely the expensive ECU. More often, it’s a much simpler (and cheaper) component in the circuit. Here’s where you should focus your attention.
The Fuel Pump Relay Itself
Relays are mechanical switches that can and do fail over time. Internal corrosion or a burnt-out coil can prevent it from working, triggering the code. This is often the most common cause.
Damaged Wiring or a Loose Connection
Your Ranger lives a rough life. Wires can get chafed, pinched, or corroded. A wire could have rubbed against the frame, or a critter might have decided your wiring harness looked like a tasty snack. A loose pin in a connector is another frequent offender.
A Blown Fuse
Always check the simple stuff first! The fuel pump and ECU circuits are protected by fuses. A simple blown fuse can create an open circuit and throw Code 58. This is the easiest fix of all.
A Faulty Ground Connection
Electricity needs a clean path to ground to complete a circuit. A rusty, loose, or corroded ground wire related to the fuel system or ECU can cause all sorts of bizarre electrical issues, including this one.
The ECU (The Last Resort)
While possible, an actual failure of the driver circuit inside the ECU is extremely rare. Do not assume the ECU is bad until you have methodically tested and ruled out every other possibility on this list. Replacing an ECU is expensive and often unnecessary.
Essential Tools & Safety First
You don’t need a full professional shop to tackle this job, but having the right tools makes all the difference. This isn’t just about convenience; it’s about getting an accurate diagnosis. Here’s your checklist.
- Digital Multimeter: This is your non-negotiable, number-one tool for this job. It’s the only way to properly test circuits, relays, and continuity. A cheap one from any auto parts store will do.
- Basic Socket and Wrench Set: For removing panels and accessing components.
- Test Light: A great backup to a multimeter for quickly checking for power.
- Wire Strippers & Crimpers: If you find a broken wire, you’ll need these for a proper repair.
- Heat Shrink Tubing & Electrical Tape: For insulating any wire repairs.
- Dielectric Grease: To protect electrical connections from moisture and corrosion.
Safety is Non-Negotiable
Before you touch a single wire, follow these safety steps:
- Work in a well-ventilated area, away from open flames or sparks. You’re dealing with the fuel system.
- Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. This prevents accidental shorts that could damage components (like your ECU) or cause injury.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
Your Step-by-Step blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger Guide
Alright, let’s get our hands dirty. Follow this blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger guide methodically. Don’t skip steps! The goal is to find the problem, not just guess.
Step 1: The Visual Inspection (Eyes First)
Before grabbing any tools, give the entire machine a thorough look-over. Pop the seat and any access panels. Grab a good flashlight and look for anything obvious.
Check the wiring harness running from the front of the machine towards the fuel tank and ECU. Look for chewed wires, sections where the plastic loom has been rubbed through, or connectors that are unplugged or full of mud and water. A visual find can save you hours of testing.
Step 2: Check the Fuses
Locate your Ranger’s fuse box (check your owner’s manual for the exact location, but it’s often under the hood or dash). Find the fuses labeled for the fuel pump (“FP” or “FUEL”) and the ECU/Ignition. Pull each one out and inspect it. If the metal strip inside is broken, you’ve found your culprit. Replace it with a fuse of the exact same amperage.
Pro Tip: If a fuse blows again immediately, you have a short circuit somewhere that needs to be found. Don’t just keep putting in new fuses.
Step 3: Locate and Test the Fuel Pump Relay
The fuel pump relay is usually in the fuse box or a nearby power distribution module. It will be a small black or gray cube. You can often identify it by a diagram on the fuse box lid.
The easiest test is a “swap test.” If there’s another identical relay in the box for something non-essential (like the headlights or horn), swap them. If your Ranger now starts and the other component stops working, you have a bad relay. Go buy a new one!
If a swap isn’t possible, you’ll need your multimeter to test it. This process varies slightly by relay, but generally involves checking for continuity between specific pins and testing the coil’s resistance. A quick search for “how to test a 4-pin automotive relay” will give you a visual guide.
Step 4: Test the Relay Socket and Wiring
This is where we test the “driver circuit” itself. Remove the fuel pump relay. With the battery connected and the key in the “On” position, use your multimeter to carefully test the slots in the socket where the relay plugs in. You should find:
- One slot with constant 12V power.
- One slot that gets 12V power only when the key is on.
- One slot that is a constant ground.
- One slot that is the “control” or “driver” wire from the ECU. This wire is what the ECU uses to ground the relay and turn it on. Probing this wire can be tricky, but it should show ground for 2-3 seconds when you first turn the key on.
If you are missing power or ground at the socket, you have a wiring problem between the fuse box and the socket. If the control wire never shows ground, you have a wiring problem between the socket and the ECU, or the rare ECU fault.
Common Problems and Mistakes to Avoid
Learning how to blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger diagnosis is as much about avoiding pitfalls as it is following steps. Here are common mistakes we see.
Throwing Parts at the Problem
The number one mistake is buying a new fuel pump or relay without testing anything. This is a great way to waste money and remain frustrated. Test, don’t guess. The code points to the circuit, not necessarily a specific part.
Ignoring a Bad Ground
A weak or corroded ground is the ghost in the machine. Many DIYers focus only on the power side of the circuit. Always check your main frame and engine ground straps. Make sure they are clean, tight, and free of rust or paint.
Making Poor Electrical Repairs
If you find a broken wire, don’t just twist it together and wrap it in tape. For a lasting, weatherproof repair, use a proper butt connector with heat shrink, or ideally, solder the wires and cover them with heat shrink tubing. This is one of the most important blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger best practices for long-term reliability.
Best Practices for a Healthy Fuel System: A Care Guide
Once you’ve fixed the issue, you want to prevent it from happening again. Adopting a good care routine is key. This is the foundation of a more sustainable blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger ownership experience—fixing it right once is better than repeated failures.
Whenever you work on an electrical connector, add a small dab of dielectric grease before you plug it back in. This keeps moisture out and prevents corrosion, which is a major cause of electrical faults.
After a particularly rough or muddy ride, take a few minutes to inspect your wiring harnesses. Look for any areas that might be rubbing against the frame or suspension components and secure them with a zip tie before they wear through. A well-maintained machine is a more efficient and eco-friendly blink code 58 2013 polaris 500 ranger, as it prevents fuel delivery issues and ensures a complete burn.
Frequently Asked Questions About Blink Code 58 2013 Polaris 500 Ranger
Can I still drive my Ranger with blink code 58?
It’s highly discouraged. The code indicates a critical failure in the fuel delivery system. At best, you’ll be left stranded when the machine stalls. At worst, an intermittent short could cause further electrical damage.
How much does it cost to fix blink code 58?
The cost varies wildly depending on the cause. If it’s a blown fuse, it’s less than a dollar. A new fuel pump relay is typically $15-$30. If it’s a wiring issue you fix yourself, the cost is just a few dollars for supplies. The most expensive fix would be a new ECU, but this is extremely unlikely.
Is the fuel pump relay the same as the fuel pump?
No. The fuel pump is the component inside your gas tank that physically pumps the fuel. The fuel pump relay is the small electrical switch, usually in the fuse box, that tells the fuel pump when to turn on and off.
What if I clear the code and it comes right back?
This is a clear sign that you have a “hard fault.” The problem is currently active and not intermittent. This means you haven’t fixed the root cause. You need to go back through the diagnostic steps to find the break or short in the circuit.
Tackling an electrical issue like blink code 58 can feel intimidating, but it’s entirely manageable with a logical approach and the right information. By following this guide, you’ve moved from being a victim of a blinking light to being an empowered owner who understands their machine. The real benefit of this process is not just fixing the problem, but gaining the confidence to handle future issues.
Remember the core process: inspect for the obvious, test the simple components first, and work your way methodically through the circuit. Grab your multimeter, take your time, and you’ll get that Ranger running right.
Stay safe, stay on the trail, and keep on wrenching. Happy trails from all of us here at FatBoysOffroad!
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