Can Am Commander Grease Points - The Ultimate Location & Lube Guide

Ever hit the trail and hear that soul-crushing squeak from your suspension? Or feel a stiff, binding sensation in your steering? We’ve all been there. It’s the sound of metal-on-metal friction, a cry for help from your machine’s most vital pivot points. You agree that ignoring it is the fastest way to a busted part and an expensive repair bill.

I promise you, this guide is the definitive answer to that problem. We’re going to eliminate the guesswork and turn a crucial maintenance task into a simple, satisfying job. You’ll learn the exact location of every zerk, the right grease to use, and the pro techniques to protect your investment.

In this complete can am commander grease points guide, we’ll walk through a full location map for your machine, the essential tools for the job, step-by-step instructions for a perfect lube service, and how to troubleshoot common issues. Let’s get greasy and keep your Commander running like new.

Why Greasing Your Commander Isn’t Just Maintenance—It’s Survival

Think of grease as the lifeblood for your Commander’s suspension and driveline. It’s a simple task with massive payoffs, and understanding the benefits of can am commander grease points is the first step to becoming a smarter owner.

Every time you ride, your A-arms, sway bars, and driveshafts are pivoting, twisting, and sliding. Without a protective layer of grease, those metal surfaces grind against each other, causing rapid wear.

Proper lubrication does two critical things. First, it creates a low-friction barrier that allows parts to move smoothly, giving you a plusher ride and more responsive handling. Second, and just as important, pumping in fresh grease purges out the bad stuff—water, mud, sand, and grit. This contamination is what truly destroys bushings and bearings from the inside out.

A few minutes with a grease gun every few rides is the cheapest insurance you can buy against costly repairs like replacing A-arm bushings, ball joints, or U-joints.

Your Essential Toolkit: Gearing Up for the Grease Job

Before you crawl under your machine, having the right gear makes all the difference. You don’t need a professional shop, just a few key items. This is one of the most important can am commander grease points tips: preparation is everything.

Tools You’ll Absolutely Need

You can get this whole job done with a very basic setup. Don’t overcomplicate it.

Grease Gun: A pistol-grip style gun is fantastic for one-handed operation in tight spots. Make sure it has a flexible hose attachment, not a rigid pipe. This is non-negotiable for reaching some of the trickier zerks.
Grease Gun Coupler: The standard coupler that comes with your gun will work for most fittings. A quality, locking coupler can be a great upgrade to prevent messy leaks.
Clean Rags or Shop Towels: You’ll need these for cleaning zerk fittings before you pump and wiping up excess grease after.
Nitrile Gloves: Grease is messy. Protect your hands and make cleanup easier.

Choosing the Right Grease: Don’t Skimp Here

The type of grease you use is critical. Your Can-Am Commander is an off-road vehicle that sees water, mud, and extreme pressure. Standard automotive grease from a dusty tube in your grandpa’s garage won’t cut it.

You need a high-quality, waterproof marine-grade grease. Look for a grease with an NLGI #2 rating, which refers to its thickness. A lithium complex or synthetic base is an excellent choice as it resists water washout and performs well under high-pressure, high-temperature conditions.

Pro Tip: The “Needle” Attachment

For some sealed boots or incredibly tight spots, a grease needle attachment for your gun can be a lifesaver. It allows you to pierce the rubber boot of a tie rod end or ball joint (if it’s non-serviceable) to inject a small amount of fresh grease, extending its life.

The Complete Can-Am Commander Grease Points Location Guide

Alright, let’s get to the treasure map. While exact locations can vary slightly by year and model (like the Max vs. a 2-seater), these are the universal spots you need to hit. It’s best to perform this service with the suspension at a normal ride height, but jacking it up to let the wheels droop can sometimes make access easier.

Front Suspension Zerks

The front end takes a beating. Give it the attention it deserves.

Upper A-Arm Bushings: You’ll find a zerk on the inner pivot points where each upper A-arm connects to the frame. There’s one for the front and one for the rear pivot on both the driver and passenger side.
Lower A-Arm Bushings: Same as the uppers. Look for the zerks on the inner pivot points where the lower A-arms mount to the frame.
Sway Bar Bushings: Follow the sway bar from one side to the other. You will find zerks on the two bushings where the bar mounts to the frame.
Sway Bar End Links: Some models have serviceable end links with small zerks where they connect to the A-arms.

Rear Suspension Zerks

The rear follows a similar pattern to the front, but the components may look a bit different depending on your specific Commander model.

Upper Control Arm/Link Bushings: Check where the upper arms mount to the frame and to the rear knuckle.
Lower A-Arm/Trailing Arm Bushings: This is a major pivot point. Find the zerks where the large lower arms connect to the frame.
Rear Knuckle Bushings: The rear hub assembly (knuckle) often has several pivot points with zerks where the various arms connect to it.
Rear Sway Bar & End Links: Just like the front, find the frame mount bushings and any zerks on the end links.

Driveline Zerks (The Most Commonly Missed!)

Ignoring these will lead to driveline vibrations and catastrophic failure. Do not skip them!

Front & Rear Driveshaft U-Joints: Your Commander has two driveshafts. Each one has a U-joint at each end. Most factory U-joints have a tiny, hard-to-see zerk fitting in the center of the cross. You may need to rotate the driveshaft to spot it.
Driveshaft Slip Yoke: This is the most critical and most forgotten grease point on the entire vehicle. On the rear driveshaft, there is a splined section that slides in and out as the suspension cycles. It has a zerk fitting on it. Keeping this lubricated prevents the infamous “Commander clunk” on takeoff and saves your transmission output shaft.

How to Grease Your Can-Am Commander Points: A Step-by-Step Walkthrough

Now that you know where to look, let’s cover the proper technique. This how to can am commander grease points process is simple, but doing it right makes all the difference.

Step 1: Prep and Safety First

Park your Commander on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Before you attach your grease gun to any zerk, you must wipe the fitting clean with a rag. Forcing dirt and grit into the joint with the new grease defeats the entire purpose.

Step 2: The Right Pumping Technique

Firmly press the grease gun coupler onto the zerk fitting. It should “snap” on. Begin pumping the handle slowly and steadily. Watch the seals of the joint you are servicing.

You are looking for a small bead of fresh grease to start pushing out from the edges of the bushing or seal. You will often see the old, dark, and watery grease come out first. This is exactly what you want—you’re purging the contaminants.

Step 3: Know When to Stop

This is one of the most important can am commander grease points best practices. The goal is to fill the joint, not blow out the seals. For most suspension bushings, 2 to 4 pumps is usually sufficient.

When you see fresh, clean grease emerge from the seals, stop. If you keep pumping, you risk rupturing the rubber or plastic seal, which then allows dirt and water to enter freely.

Step 4: Clean Up is Part of the Job

Once you’re done with a fitting, remove the coupler and wipe off all the excess grease from the zerk itself and the surrounding area. A big glob of grease is a magnet for trail dust and dirt, which can contaminate the joint next time you service it.

Common Problems with Can-Am Commander Grease Points (And How to Fix Them)

Even a simple job can have its frustrations. Here are some common problems with can am commander grease points and how to tackle them like a pro.

The Zerk Won’t Take Grease

This usually means the small ball bearing inside the zerk is stuck or clogged with old, hardened grease and dirt. Try pushing on the ball bearing with a small pick to free it. If that fails, you can try a Zerk-fitting cleaning tool, or simply unscrew the old zerk with a wrench and install a new one. They are very inexpensive.

The Grease Gun Coupler is Stuck

Don’t yank on it! This can break the zerk off. Instead, slightly tilt the coupler to one side to release the pressure, and it should pop right off.

Grease Pours Out Around the Zerk

This means your coupler isn’t seated properly, or the coupler itself is worn out. Try re-seating it firmly. If it still leaks, it may be time for a new grease gun coupler.

A Sustainable Approach to Your Lube Routine

Being a responsible off-roader extends to our maintenance habits. A sustainable can am commander grease points approach is not only better for the environment but also for your machine.

By using a high-quality, long-lasting grease, you ensure the protection lasts longer, potentially reducing the frequency of service and the amount of product used over the vehicle’s life. This is a core part of any good eco-friendly can am commander grease points care guide.

Instead of disposable paper towels, consider using reusable shop rags for cleanup. When you’re done, properly dispose of any empty grease cartridges and soiled rags according to your local regulations. Never just toss them in the trash, as the petroleum products can contaminate soil and water.

Frequently Asked Questions About Can-Am Commander Grease Points

How often should I grease my Commander?

There’s no single answer, as it depends entirely on your riding style. A good rule of thumb is every 25 hours of normal trail riding. However, you should grease your machine immediately after any ride that involves deep water crossings or thick, peanut-butter mud.

What is the absolute best grease for a Can-Am Commander?

While brands vary, the specifications do not. You cannot go wrong with a premium, synthetic waterproof marine grease with an NLGI #2 rating. Brands like Maxima, Lucas Oil, and Bel-Ray all make excellent products that fit this description.

Can I over-grease a zerk fitting?

Yes, absolutely. Pumping too much grease can blow out the rubber or plastic seals designed to keep dirt out. Once a seal is compromised, the joint will wear out much faster. Watch for fresh grease to appear, then stop.

I found a spot that looks like it should have a zerk, but it doesn’t. What gives?

Some components, like many factory-installed tie rod ends or ball joints, are designed as “sealed” or “non-serviceable” units. They are lubricated for life at the factory. When they wear out, the entire component must be replaced.

Taking just 30 minutes to hit all the can am commander grease points is one of the most rewarding and impactful maintenance tasks you can perform. It’s your direct line of defense against the harsh elements of the trail.

You’ll not only extend the life of your machine’s most expensive components but also enjoy a quieter, smoother, and more responsive ride. It’s a win-win that saves you money and keeps you riding longer.

Now, grab your grease gun, put on some old clothes, and give your Commander the care it deserves. Stay safe out there and keep the adventure going!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.