Can Am Commander Grinding In High Gear - Your Ultimate Diagnostic

There are few sounds that make an off-roader’s stomach drop faster than the harsh, metallic protest of gears grinding. You’re hitting the throttle, ready to open it up on a straightaway, you shift into high, and… GRRRRIND. It’s a sound that screams “expensive” and can instantly ruin a day on the trails. If you’re dealing with a can am commander grinding in high gear, you’ve come to the right place.

We know that feeling of frustration and worry. You love your machine, but that noise is a serious problem you can’t ignore.

I promise this guide will walk you through the entire diagnostic process, from the simple fixes you can do in your garage to the more complex issues that might need a pro. We’ll break down the common problems, give you a step-by-step action plan, and help you understand exactly what’s happening inside your transmission so you can get back on the trail with confidence.

What’s That Awful Noise? Understanding the Grind

That grinding sound is the universal language of mechanical distress. It’s the sound of gear teeth failing to mesh properly and clashing against each other instead of locking in smoothly.

Think of it like two zippers trying to close when their teeth are misaligned. Instead of a clean connection, you get a nasty jam.

This is not a “drive it and see if it goes away” problem. Every time you hear that grind, tiny metal shavings are being sheared off your gears, contaminating your transmission fluid and causing accelerated wear on every internal component. Ignoring it is the fastest way to turn a potentially simple adjustment into a catastrophic transmission failure.

A Deep Dive: Common Problems with Can Am Commander Grinding in High Gear

Let’s get the wrenches out and start diagnosing. The key is to work from the easiest and most common culprits to the most complex. Here is your complete can am commander grinding in high gear guide to finding the source of the issue.

Culprit #1: Stretched or Misadjusted Shift Cable

This is the most common cause and, thankfully, the easiest to fix. Your shifter is connected to the transmission by a cable. Over time, this cable can stretch slightly or the adjustment nuts can loosen.

When this happens, moving the shifter into “H” doesn’t fully move the transmission lever into high gear. The internal components are left hanging in a sort of limbo between gears, causing them to clash.

How to Check:

Have a friend sit in the driver’s seat and move the shifter through the gears (P-R-N-H-L) with the engine off.
Watch the transmission shift lever (located on the transmission case). Does it move decisively into each detent?
Check for slop or play in the cable at both the shifter and transmission ends. You can often fix the grind by simply tightening the adjustment nuts on the cable to remove this slack.

Culprit #2: Worn Clutch Components

Your Commander’s CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) system has two clutches: a primary (drive) and a secondary (driven). A critical part inside the primary is the one-way bearing.

This bearing is supposed to allow the clutch to spin freely at idle. If it starts to seize or fail, it can keep the clutch slightly engaged, even at idle. This means the transmission is always under a bit of load, making it extremely difficult for the gears to shift without grinding.

How to Check:

With the machine safely parked, remove the CVT cover.
Visually inspect the clutches for excessive belt dust, broken springs, or grooved sheaves.
Start the engine in Park and carefully observe the secondary clutch. It should remain perfectly still at idle. If it’s trying to turn, your one-way bearing is likely the problem.

Culprit #3: Low or Contaminated Transmission Fluid

This is a critical part of your can am commander grinding in high gear care guide. Transmission fluid does more than lubricate; it cools and helps actuate internal parts. If the fluid is low, old, or contaminated with water or metal shavings, it can’t do its job.

This leads to poor shifting, overheating, and that dreaded grinding. It’s a simple check that can save you a world of hurt.

How to Check:

Consult your owner’s manual for the location of the transmission fill/check plug.
Park on a perfectly level surface.
Clean the area around the plug thoroughly before removing it to prevent dirt from entering.
Check the level according to the manual’s procedure. If it’s low, top it off with the correct BRP-specified fluid. Do not substitute!
Look at the fluid on the plug or a dipstick. If it’s milky (water contamination) or has a glittery/metallic sheen, it needs to be changed immediately, as this indicates internal wear.

Culprit #4: Internal Transmission Damage (Shift Forks & Dogs)

This is the one we hope it isn’t. Inside your transmission are components called shift forks and gear dogs. The forks move the gears, and the dogs are the teeth that lock the gears together.

Forcing the shifter, shifting while moving, or prolonged grinding from another issue can bend a shift fork or round off the edges of the gear dogs. Once these are damaged, they can no longer make a clean, solid connection, resulting in grinding or popping out of gear.

How to Diagnose:

Unfortunately, this isn’t something you can see without splitting the transmission case. If you’ve ruled out the cable, clutch, and fluid, and the grinding is persistent and severe, internal damage is the likely cause. This is a complex job that we strongly recommend leaving to a qualified technician.

Culprit #5: Idle RPM is Too High

This is a sneaky one that’s often overlooked. Your Commander is designed to shift smoothly when the engine is at its specified idle RPM (usually around 1250 RPM).

If the idle is set too high, the clutches won’t fully disengage, similar to a failing one-way bearing. This puts constant pressure on the drivetrain, causing a harsh grind when you try to select a gear.

How to Check:

Start your machine and let it warm up completely.
Check the tachometer on your display. Is the idle speed higher than what’s specified in your owner’s manual?
A high idle can be caused by a vacuum leak, a faulty sensor, or a dirty throttle body.

Your Action Plan: How to Can Am Commander Grinding in High Gear

Feeling overwhelmed? Don’t be. Follow this logical sequence to pinpoint the problem safely.

Safety First: Park the Commander on level ground. Set the parking brake, chock the wheels, and ensure the machine is stable before you start working.
Check the Simple Stuff: Start with the engine running. Is the idle speed correct? If so, turn the engine off. Check your transmission fluid level and condition. These take minutes and can save hours of headache.
Inspect the Linkage: This is your highest-probability fix. Check the shift cable for slack and proper adjustment from the shifter all the way to the transmission. Adjust as needed.
Pop the CVT Cover: With the engine off, perform a visual inspection of the clutches and belt. Look for anything obviously broken or out of place.
Perform the One-Way Bearing Test: Start the engine in Park with the CVT cover off. If the secondary clutch is trying to spin, you’ve found your culprit.
Know When to Fold ‘Em: If you’ve gone through steps 1-5 and the grinding persists, the problem is likely inside the transmission case. At this point, the best practice is to take it to a trusted shop.

The Benefits of Fixing That Grind (It’s More Than Just Noise)

Addressing this issue promptly offers more than just peace and quiet. The benefits of can am commander grinding in high gear repair are significant and long-lasting.

Prevents Catastrophic Failure: A small fix today prevents a multi-thousand-dollar transmission rebuild tomorrow. You’re saving the life of your machine’s most expensive component.
Restores Rider Confidence: Nothing is worse than worrying about your machine on the trail. A reliable, smooth-shifting UTV lets you focus on the ride, not on potential breakdowns.
Enhances Performance: A properly functioning transmission delivers power to the wheels efficiently. Fixing the grind ensures you’re getting all the performance you paid for.
Promotes Sustainable Maintenance: Following these eco-friendly can am commander grinding in high gear tips means you’re practicing responsible ownership. Timely repairs prevent major component failure, reducing the waste and resources needed for manufacturing and shipping massive parts like a full transmission.

Frequently Asked Questions About Can Am Commander Grinding in High Gear

Why does my Commander only grind in high gear and not low?

This often points to a very specific problem. It could be a shift cable adjustment issue where the cable just isn’t pulling far enough to fully engage the high gear detent. It can also indicate a problem with the high gear dogs or the specific shift fork for the high/reverse gear set inside the transmission, which sees different wear patterns than the low gear set.

Is it okay to keep riding if it only grinds a little bit?

Absolutely not. Even a small grind is a sign that metal parts are making improper contact. This creates metal shavings that contaminate your fluid and act like sandpaper inside your transmission, rapidly accelerating wear on every bearing, gear, and seal. Please stop riding and diagnose the issue immediately.

What’s the average cost to fix a grinding transmission?

The cost varies wildly depending on the cause. A simple shift cable adjustment might only cost you 30 minutes of your time. A replacement one-way bearing could be a couple hundred dollars in parts and labor. However, if you need a full transmission rebuild due to internal damage, you could be looking at $1,500 to $3,000 or more.

What basic tools do I need to start diagnosing this?

For the initial checks, you’ll want a good set of metric sockets and wrenches, screwdrivers, and Allen/Torx keys to remove panels and the CVT cover. You’ll also need a drain pan and a funnel if you plan on checking or changing the transmission fluid.

Tackling that grinding noise is a crucial step in maintaining the health and longevity of your Can-Am Commander. By starting with the simple, common causes like fluid levels and cable adjustments, you can often solve the problem yourself with basic tools and a bit of patience. Remember to always prioritize safety and never hesitate to call in a professional for complex internal work.

Now you have the knowledge and a clear plan. Get out to the garage, trust your wrenching skills, and get that machine shifting like butter. A quiet, reliable ride is your reward. Happy trails!

Author
Recent Posts

Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.