There’s no feeling quite like hopping into your Can Am Commander, ready to hit the trail, only to be met with… nothing. You turn the key, and instead of the satisfying roar of the engine, you get a weak click, or worse, complete silence. It’s a moment of pure frustration that can stop a great day of riding in its tracks.
We’ve all been there. That dead turn of the key immediately sends your mind racing: Is it the battery? A fuse? The starter? Often, the culprit is a component you use every single time you ride, but rarely think about—the ignition switch.
In this complete guide, we promise to demystify this critical part. We’ll walk you through everything from identifying the telltale signs of a failing switch to a step-by-step replacement you can tackle in your own garage. Consider this your ultimate can am commander ignition switch guide, designed to get you back in the driver’s seat with confidence.
What the Can Am Commander Ignition Switch Actually Does
It’s easy to think of the ignition switch as a simple “on/off” button for your engine, but its role is far more central to your Commander’s operation. Think of it as the main gatekeeper for your entire electrical system.
When you turn the key, you’re not just sending a signal to the starter. You are physically closing different electrical circuits in a specific sequence. This process powers up essential components needed for your machine to function correctly.
The Key Positions and Their Functions
- OFF: All primary electrical circuits are open. The only thing drawing power is the clock or systems with a constant memory feed.
- ACCESSORY (ACC): This position powers up non-essential systems like your radio, 12v outlets, and some lighting without engaging the fuel pump or ignition system.
* ON: This is the main “run” position. It energizes the ECU (Engine Control Unit), fuel pump, dashboard gauges, and the ignition coils. It’s the state your Commander is in while you’re riding.
* START: This is a momentary position that sends power directly to the starter solenoid, which in turn engages the starter motor to crank the engine. Once the engine starts and you release the key, it springs back to the ON position.
Understanding these distinct functions is crucial because it helps you diagnose where the failure might be. For example, if your accessories work but the engine won’t crank, it points to a problem in the ON or START circuit of the switch.
Telltale Signs: Common Problems with a Can Am Commander Ignition Switch
An ignition switch rarely fails catastrophically overnight. It usually gives you warning signs. Learning to recognize these symptoms can save you from being stranded on the trail. Here are the most common problems to watch for.
Symptom 1: The Engine Won’t Crank or Starts Intermittently
This is the most obvious sign. You turn the key to START and get nothing. It might happen every time, or it could be intermittent, working one moment and failing the next. This inconsistency often points to worn internal contacts inside the can am commander ignition switch.
Symptom 2: Accessories or Dash Lights Flicker
Have you noticed your dashboard lights cutting out or your winch acting possessed when you jiggle the key? This is a classic sign of a loose or failing connection within the switch. The vibration from riding can be enough to make the faulty connection flicker on and off.
Symptom 3: The Key is Hard to Turn or Gets Stuck
This is a purely mechanical failure. Over time, the tumblers and springs inside the lock cylinder can wear out, get gummed up with dirt, or break. If you have to fight with the key to get it to turn, the switch is on its last legs.
Symptom 4: Your Commander Stalls While Riding
This is one of the most dangerous symptoms. A severe internal fault in the switch can cause it to lose connection in the ON position while you’re moving. This will instantly kill the engine, which can be extremely hazardous, especially on a steep incline or in a tricky section of trail.
How to Diagnose Your Can Am Commander Ignition Switch Like a Pro
Before you spend money on a new switch, it’s essential to confirm the old one is actually the problem. Throwing parts at an issue is expensive and frustrating. This simple diagnostic process will help you pinpoint the cause.
Step 1: The Essential “Rule-Outs”
Always start with the basics. More often than not, a simple issue can mimic a complex one. Don’t skip these checks!
- Check the Battery: A weak or dead battery is the #1 cause of no-start conditions. Use a multimeter to check the voltage. A healthy, fully charged battery should read around 12.6-12.8 volts. Anything below 12.2 volts is a sign it needs a charge or replacement.
- Inspect Fuses: Check the main ignition fuse and any related fuses in your Commander’s fuse box. A simple blown fuse can save you a world of headache.
- Verify Connections: Ensure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Check the main ground connection to the frame and the power connection at the starter solenoid.
Step 2: The “Wiggle Test”
This is a quick and effective field test. Turn the key to the ON position so the dashboard lights up. Now, gently wiggle the key in the ignition without turning it. If the dash lights flicker or cut out, you’ve almost certainly found your culprit—a bad internal connection in the switch.
Step 3: Testing the Switch with a Multimeter
For a definitive diagnosis, you’ll need a multimeter set to the continuity or resistance (Ohms) setting. This test checks if the switch is making a clean electrical connection internally.
SAFETY FIRST: Before you begin, disconnect the negative terminal from your battery. Failure to do so could result in short circuits, blown fuses, or damage to your Commander’s electrical system.
- Access the back of the ignition switch by removing the necessary dash panels.
- Unplug the main electrical connector from the switch.
- Consult your Commander’s service manual or a wiring diagram to identify the pins for each key position (e.g., Battery In, Accessory Out, Ignition Out, Start Out).
- Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (it usually has a symbol that looks like a sound wave).
- Test each position. For example, in the ON position, you should have continuity between the “Battery In” pin and the “Ignition Out” pin. In the START position, you should have continuity between “Battery In” and “Start Out.”
If you don’t get a clear “beep” or a reading of near-zero ohms in any of the positions, the switch is faulty and needs replacement.
Your Step-by-Step Can Am Commander Ignition Switch Replacement Guide
Ready to get your hands dirty? Replacing the switch is a very manageable DIY job with basic tools. This section provides the how to can am commander ignition switch steps you need for a successful installation.
Tools and Parts Needed
- A new ignition switch (OEM is recommended for perfect fitment)
- Socket set and ratchet
- Torx bit set
* Plastic trim removal tools (to avoid scratching your dash)
* Needle-nose pliers
* A phone for taking pictures!
The Replacement Process
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery. We can’t say it enough. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and secure it away from the post to prevent any accidental contact.
Step 2: Access the Dash. You’ll need to remove the plastic panels surrounding the ignition switch. This usually involves removing a few Torx screws and carefully popping plastic clips loose. Use your trim removal tools to gently pry the panels apart.
Step 3: Locate and Disconnect the Switch. Once the dash is open, you’ll see the back of the ignition switch cylinder with a wiring harness plugged into it. Before you unplug anything, take a clear picture with your phone. This is your reference if you forget how it goes. Press the release tab on the connector and pull it straight off.
Step 4: Remove the Old Switch. The ignition switch is typically held in place by a large retaining nut on the front of the dash or by plastic clips on the back. Use your pliers or a specific tool to unscrew the nut and pull the switch out from behind the dash.
Step 5: Install the New Switch. Slide the new switch into the hole from behind the dash. Thread on the retaining nut and tighten it until it’s snug—don’t overtighten and crack the plastic dash. Ensure it’s aligned correctly.
Step 6: Reconnect and Test. Plug the wiring harness firmly into the back of the new switch. You should hear a click as it seats. Now, reconnect your negative battery terminal. Insert the key and test all functions—ACC, ON, and START—to ensure everything works as it should before you reassemble the dash.
Step 7: Reassemble. Once you’ve confirmed the new switch works perfectly, carefully reinstall all the dash panels in the reverse order you removed them. Make sure all clips snap into place and all screws are tightened.
Can Am Commander Ignition Switch Best Practices & Care Guide
A little preventative maintenance can go a long way. Following these can am commander ignition switch tips will extend the life of your new switch and prevent future issues.
Keep Your Keychain Light
A heavy, dangling keychain with a dozen keys, tools, and charms puts constant stress and vibration on the internal tumblers of the switch. This can cause premature mechanical wear. Keep it simple: just your Commander key is best.
Protect it from the Elements
Water and dust are the mortal enemies of electrical components. After a muddy or wet ride, take a moment to wipe down the dash area. When washing your Commander, avoid spraying high-pressure water directly at the ignition switch.
A Note on a Sustainable Can Am Commander Ignition Switch
When we talk about an eco-friendly can am commander ignition switch, it’s not about the materials—it’s about the mindset. The most sustainable practice is to diagnose correctly the first time. This prevents wasting resources on parts you don’t need. Furthermore, investing in a high-quality OEM or reputable aftermarket part ensures longevity, reducing the number of times you’ll have to replace it over the life of your machine.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Can Am Commander Ignition Switch
Can I bypass the ignition switch to get home from the trail?
While technically possible for someone with deep electrical knowledge, we strongly advise against it. Improperly “hotwiring” your Commander can cause permanent damage to your ECU, wiring harness, or other expensive components. It is far safer to diagnose the issue or arrange for a tow.
Do I need to reprogram my D.E.S.S. key after replacing the switch?
No. The Digitally Encoded Security System (D.E.S.S.) key is paired to your Commander’s ECU, not the ignition switch. The switch is simply the mechanical and electrical interface. As long as you are just swapping the switch, your existing keys will work without any reprogramming.
How much does a new Can Am Commander ignition switch cost?
Prices can vary. An official OEM switch from BRP will typically cost between $70 and $150, depending on your model year. Aftermarket options can be found for less, but always check reviews to ensure quality and proper fitment.
Is an aftermarket ignition switch as good as an OEM one?
It depends on the brand. Some aftermarket parts are excellent and offer great value. However, an OEM part guarantees a perfect fit, finish, and compatibility with your machine’s wiring. For a critical component like the ignition, we generally recommend sticking with OEM for peace of mind.
Tackling an electrical issue on your Can Am Commander can feel intimidating, but the ignition switch is one of the most straightforward components to diagnose and replace. By following this guide, you’ve learned how the system works, what to look for when it fails, and exactly how to fix it.
Now you have the knowledge and confidence to solve one of the most common no-start problems. Get those tools out, get that new switch in, and get back to what matters most—hitting the trail.
Stay safe and ride on!
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