Can Am Commander Tie Rods – Your Complete Guide To Upgrading

Ever felt that unnerving wobble in your steering wheel when you’re navigating a rocky trail? Or maybe you’ve noticed one of your front tires pointing slightly off-kilter, even when the handlebars are straight. We’ve all been there, and it’s a feeling that can instantly sap your confidence on the ride.

At FatBoysOffroad, we promise to cut through the noise and give you the straight-up, practical advice you need to keep your machine running strong. This isn’t just another parts list; this is your comprehensive guide to everything you need to know about your can am commander tie rods.

In this article, you’ll learn how to spot the warning signs of a failing tie rod, understand the massive benefits of an aftermarket upgrade, and follow our step-by-step instructions to replace them yourself. Let’s get your Commander’s steering dialed in and ready for anything the trail throws at it.

Why Your Can-Am Commander Tie Rods Are More Important Than You Think

Think of your tie rods as the critical link between your steering rack and your wheels. When you turn the steering wheel, the steering rack moves, pushing or pulling the tie rods, which in turn pivot the knuckles that your wheels are attached to. Simple, right?

But on a machine like a Can-Am Commander, these aren’t just simple linkages. They are subjected to incredible stress from big tires, rough terrain, and aggressive driving. The factory tie rods are designed for general use, but they can quickly become the weakest link in your steering system.

Understanding the common problems with can am commander tie rods is the first step. The stock units are often made from thinner tubing and feature smaller, less durable ball joints or inner ends. A hard hit on a rock or a G-out in a washout can easily bend a stock tie rod, leaving you stranded with a wheel pointing in the wrong direction.

Spotting the Signs: When to Inspect or Replace Your Tie Rods

Your Commander is pretty good at telling you when something is wrong, you just have to know what to listen and feel for. Ignoring the early warning signs of a failing tie rod can lead to more expensive repairs or, worse, a dangerous failure on the trail.

Here are the tell-tale symptoms that your tie rods need attention:

Sloppy Steering: This is the most common complaint. If you feel a “dead zone” or excessive play in your steering wheel before the wheels respond, your tie rod ends are likely worn.
Uneven Tire Wear: Take a look at your front tires. If you see excessive wear on the inner or outer edges, it’s a classic sign of a bad alignment, often caused by a worn or bent tie rod.
A “Clunking” or “Popping” Noise: When turning at low speeds, a worn-out tie rod end will often make a distinct clunking sound as the internal joint shifts around.
Steering Wheel Vibration: While other issues can cause this, a loose tie rod end can create a shimmy or vibration that you feel directly through the steering wheel, especially at higher speeds.

The “Shake Down” Test: A Quick DIY Inspection

Here’s one of the best can am commander tie rods tips for a quick diagnosis. You don’t need fancy tools for this, just a solid jack and a friend.

Safely lift the front of your Commander so the tires are off the ground. Always use jack stands for safety—never rely on the jack alone.
Grab a front tire with your hands at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions.
Try to wiggle the tire side-to-side. There should be almost no play. If you feel a clunk or see significant movement, have your friend watch the tie rod as you wiggle the tire.
You’ll be able to see the play directly at the inner or outer tie rod end, confirming where the problem is.

Choosing Your Weapon: OEM vs. Aftermarket Upgrades

So you’ve confirmed your tie rods are shot. Now what? You have two main paths: replace with OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts or seize the opportunity to upgrade. For any serious off-roader, the choice is clear.

The benefits of can am commander tie rods from a quality aftermarket brand are massive. They are designed to fix the inherent weaknesses of the stock components and provide peace of mind on the trail.

What Makes an Aftermarket Tie Rod Better?

Material Strength: Upgraded tie rods are often machined from solid billets of high-strength aluminum, like 6061-T6 or the even more robust 7075-T6 aluminum. This makes them significantly more resistant to bending and breaking.
Beefier Tie Rod Ends: Aftermarket kits typically use heavy-duty chromoly steel heim joints or oversized automotive-grade ball joints. These offer more articulation and can handle far greater stress than the stock ends.
Increased Adjustability: Many kits offer more precise toe adjustment, which is critical for dialing in your steering, especially after installing a lift kit or larger tires.

While the initial cost is higher than OEM, an upgrade is an investment in reliability. Paying a bit more now can save you from a costly tow or a ruined weekend down the road.

The Ultimate Can Am Commander Tie Rods Replacement Guide

Ready to get your hands dirty? This section covers how to can am commander tie rods are replaced. This job is well within the reach of a careful DIY mechanic with the right tools. Take your time, stay organized, and prioritize safety.

H3: Tools and Parts You’ll Need

New Tie Rod Assembly (Inner and Outer)
Floor Jack and Jack Stands
Socket Set and Wrenches (Metric)
Torque Wrench
Needle-Nose Pliers (for cotter pins)
Tie Rod End Puller (or a BFH – Big Friendly Hammer)
Tape Measure
Paint Marker or White-Out
Safety Glasses and Gloves

H3: Step-by-Step Replacement Process

Park and Secure: Park your Commander on a flat, level surface. Put it in park and engage the parking brake.
Loosen Lug Nuts: While the machine is on the ground, break the lug nuts loose on the front wheels. Don’t remove them yet.
Lift and Support: Using your floor jack on a solid frame point, lift the front end until the wheels are off the ground. Place your jack stands securely under the frame and lower the machine onto them.
Remove the Wheel: Now you can finish removing the lug nuts and take the wheel off.
Measure First! (Crucial Step): This is a pro tip to get your alignment close. Use your tape measure to measure the distance from a fixed point on the frame to the center of your tie rod end. Write this measurement down! You’ll use it to set the length of the new tie rod.
Disconnect the Outer Tie Rod End: Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the tie rod stud, then remove the nut. Use a tie rod end puller to pop the stud out of the steering knuckle. If you don’t have one, a few sharp whacks with a hammer on the side of the knuckle where the stud passes through will often shock it loose.
Disconnect the Inner Tie Rod: Follow the tie rod back to where it connects to the steering rack. You’ll need to remove the boot clamp and slide the boot back. Use a large wrench to unscrew the inner tie rod from the steering rack.
Assemble and Set the New Tie Rod: Lay the old tie rod assembly next to your new one. Adjust the new tie rod so its length matches the old one. You can also use the measurement you took in step 5 to be more precise. This is key for getting your toe-in setting close enough to drive safely to an alignment shop.
Installation is the Reverse of Removal: Screw the new inner tie rod into the steering rack and torque it to the manufacturer’s specification. Slide the boot back on and secure it. Insert the new outer tie rod end into the steering knuckle, tighten the castle nut to spec, and install a new cotter pin. Never reuse an old cotter pin.
Wheels On and Final Torque: Reinstall the wheel, snug up the lug nuts, lower the vehicle, and then use your torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the proper spec in a star pattern.

Post-Installation Best Practices: Alignment and Care Guide

You’ve successfully installed your new, beefy tie rods. Great job! But you’re not quite done yet. Following this can am commander tie rods care guide ensures longevity and performance.

Your number one priority is getting a proper front-end alignment. The measurements you took get you in the ballpark, but a professional alignment is needed to set the toe perfectly. An incorrect toe setting will cause rapid tire wear and poor handling.

For ongoing care, periodically inspect your new tie rod ends, especially if they have grease fittings (zerks). Keep them clean and greased according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. This is one of the most important can am commander tie rods best practices to ensure a long service life.

Sustainable Choices and Eco-Friendly Practices

In the off-road world, “sustainability” might not be the first word that comes to mind, but it’s more relevant than you think. Choosing sustainable can am commander tie rods isn’t about finding a biodegradable part; it’s about durability and responsible disposal.

By investing in a high-quality, heavy-duty aftermarket tie rod set, you are making an eco-friendly can am commander tie rods choice. A part that lasts five times longer than the stock equivalent means less waste in landfills and fewer resources consumed for manufacturing replacements.

When you do replace your old parts, be sure to dispose of them properly. The metal can be recycled at a local scrap yard. Don’t just toss them in the trash. Every little bit helps keep our trails and our planet clean for future generations of riders.

Frequently Asked Questions About Can-Am Commander Tie Rods

How often should I check my Can-Am Commander tie rods?

A quick visual inspection should be part of your pre-ride check every time. A more thorough “shake down” test, as described above, is a good idea every 25-50 hours of ride time, or immediately after any significant impact to a front wheel.

Can I just replace the tie rod end instead of the whole assembly?

Yes, you can often just replace the worn-out outer or inner end. However, if your tie rod shaft is bent or you’re looking to upgrade for strength and reliability, replacing the entire assembly with a heavy-duty aftermarket kit is the far better option.

What is a “toe” setting and why is it important?

Toe refers to the angle of your front tires when viewed from above. “Toe-in” means the front of the tires are closer together than the rear, while “toe-out” is the opposite. The correct toe setting is critical for stable handling and preventing premature tire wear. Replacing tie rods directly affects this, which is why an alignment is essential.

Are heim joints better than ball joints for tie rods?

It depends on the application. Heim joints offer superior strength and more articulation, making them ideal for extreme off-roading and racing. However, they can wear faster and transmit more vibration. High-quality, oversized ball joints offer a smoother, quieter ride with excellent durability for the vast majority of trail riders.

Upgrading your Can-Am Commander’s tie rods is one of the most effective and confidence-inspiring mods you can make. It transforms vague, wandering steering into a precise and robust system that’s ready to take on the toughest trails. By following this guide, you have the knowledge to diagnose, choose, and install the right parts for your machine.

Now get out there, wrench safely, and enjoy the ride with the peace of mind that comes from a job well done. Happy trails from your friends at FatBoysOffroad!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.