Can Am Coolant Type – The Ultimate Guide To Protecting Your Rotax

You’re staring at a wall of coolant bottles at the auto parts store. Green, orange, pink, blue… it’s a confusing rainbow of chemicals. You know your Can-Am deserves the best, but you’ve heard horror stories about what happens when you pour in the wrong stuff. One bad choice could lead to overheating on the trail, a corroded radiator, or even a failed water pump.

You’re not alone in this. It’s one of the most common questions we get from fellow riders and DIY mechanics. That feeling of uncertainty is exactly why we put together this definitive guide.

We promise to cut through the marketing jargon and give you the straight-up facts. In this article, you’ll learn exactly what can am coolant type your machine needs, which aftermarket options are safe, and what to absolutely avoid. We’ll even walk you through checking, topping off, and flushing the system like a pro.

Why the Right Can Am Coolant Type is Non-Negotiable

First things first, let’s get one thing straight: coolant (or antifreeze) does way more than just keep your engine from overheating in the summer and freezing in the winter. It’s a complex fluid engineered to protect the very heart of your machine.

Your Can-Am’s Rotax engine is a high-performance powerplant built with a mix of metals, including a lot of aluminum. This is critical. The right coolant contains a specific package of corrosion inhibitors designed to protect these sensitive metals from slowly eating themselves from the inside out.

The benefits of can am coolant type specific formulas include:

Corrosion Protection: Prevents rust, scale, and electrolysis from forming in your radiator, engine block, and heater core.
Water Pump Lubrication: The additives in coolant lubricate the water pump’s seals, preventing premature failure and leaks.
Cavitation Prevention: Reduces the formation of tiny, damaging bubbles (cavitation) around the water pump impeller at high RPMs.
Boil-Over and Freeze Protection: Raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point of the water in the system, keeping it liquid and effective in all conditions.

Using the wrong stuff is like putting diesel in a gas engine. It might seem to work for a short time, but catastrophic damage is happening under the surface.

Decoding the Official BRP Coolant: What’s Actually Inside?

BRP (Bombardier Recreational Products), the parent company of Can-Am, makes it easy by offering their own branded fluid: the BRP XPS Antifreeze/Coolant. It comes pre-mixed 50/50 with deionized water, so you can pour it straight from the bottle.

So, what is it? While BRP keeps the exact formula a trade secret, it is an advanced OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant. This is the key piece of information you need.

OAT coolants are specifically designed for modern engines with lots of aluminum components. Critically, they are silicate-free and phosphate-free. This is a non-negotiable requirement for your Can-Am.

Why Silicate-Free? Older, conventional green coolants use silicates as corrosion inhibitors. While effective in old cast-iron engines, these silicates are abrasive and can quickly wear out the seals in your Rotax water pump.
Why Phosphate-Free? Phosphates can react with the minerals in hard water (which you should never use anyway) to create scale and deposits, clogging the small passages in your radiator and engine.

Sticking with the official BRP coolant is the safest, most foolproof option. You can’t go wrong with it.

The Can Am Coolant Type Guide: Safe Alternatives and What to AVOID

We get it. Sometimes you can’t get to a Can-Am dealer, or you want a reliable alternative you can grab from the local auto parts store. The good news is, you have options—if you know exactly what to look for. This can am coolant type guide will keep you on the right track.

Safe Aftermarket Coolants

If you’re not using the BRP XPS fluid, you must use a coolant that meets the same specifications. Look for a bottle that explicitly states it uses OAT (Organic Acid Technology) and is silicate-free and phosphate-free.

Generally, coolants designed for modern European vehicles (like VW, Audi, BMW) or Asian vehicles (like Honda, Toyota) fit this profile. Don’t rely on color alone, but these are often pink, red, purple, or blue.

Safe bets often include:

Peak OET for European Vehicles (Pink/Violet)
Valvoline Zerex Asian Vehicle (Red/Pink)
Prestone European Vehicles (Pink)

Always read the back of the bottle. If it doesn’t say “silicate-free” and “phosphate-free,” put it back on the shelf.

The “Do Not Use” List: Coolants That Will Wreck Your Ride

This is just as important. Using any of the following can lead to some of the most common problems with can am coolant type mismatches.

Conventional Green IAT Coolant: This is old-school stuff for classic cars. Its silicates will destroy your water pump seals. Avoid it at all costs.
“Universal” or “All Makes, All Models” Coolant: This is a gamble. To be “universal,” these coolants often use a less robust inhibitor package. They might not cause immediate damage, but they won’t provide the specific, long-term protection your Rotax engine demands.
Dex-Cool: While technically an OAT coolant, early formulations of Dex-Cool got a bad reputation for gelling when exposed to air or mixed with other types. It’s best to just avoid the potential headache.

The Danger of Mixing Coolant Types

Never, ever mix different types of coolant. Mixing a conventional green IAT coolant with an OAT coolant is a recipe for disaster. The chemical inhibitors will react, turning your coolant into a thick, brown sludge.

This gel will clog your radiator, block cooling passages in the engine, and starve your water pump of lubrication. The result? Severe overheating and a repair bill that will make your eyes water. If you don’t know what’s in your machine, a complete flush is the only safe option.

How To Check and Top Off Your Can-Am’s Coolant

Regularly checking your coolant level is a fundamental part of any pre-ride inspection. It’s a simple process that is a pillar of any good can am coolant type care guide.

Safety First! Make sure your Can-Am’s engine is completely cold. Opening a hot cooling system is extremely dangerous and can cause severe burns from pressurized, boiling fluid.
Locate the Reservoir: The coolant overflow reservoir is a semi-transparent plastic tank. On models like the Maverick or Commander, it’s often in the front under the hood. On an Outlander or Renegade, you might find it under the seat or behind a side panel. Check your owner’s manual if you’re unsure.
Check the Level: The reservoir will have “MIN” (or “LOW”) and “MAX” (or “FULL”) lines molded into the side. The coolant level should be between these two marks when the engine is cold.
Top Off If Needed: If the level is at or below the MIN line, it’s time to top it off. Slowly unscrew the reservoir cap to release any residual pressure.
Add the Correct Coolant: Using a small funnel, add the correct pre-mixed 50/50 coolant until the level is between the marks. Do not overfill.

In an absolute trail-side emergency, you can add distilled water. But remember, this dilutes your protection. You should drain and refill with the proper 50/50 mix as soon as you get back to the garage.

A Practical Guide to Flushing Your Can-Am Coolant

Knowing how to can am coolant type services are performed is a great DIY skill. A full flush should be done every few years (check your manual for the exact interval). It’s the best way to ensure your cooling system is clean and has fresh protection.

Tools and Supplies You’ll Need

Safety Glasses and Gloves
A Drain Pan (at least 1-gallon capacity)
A Funnel
2 Gallons of the Correct Pre-mixed 50/50 Coolant
1-2 Gallons of Distilled Water (for flushing)
Pliers (for hose clamps)
Basic Socket/Wrench Set
Clean Rags

Step-by-Step Coolant Flush Process

This is one of the most important can am coolant type best practices you can learn.

Position and Cool Down: Park your machine on level ground and ensure the engine is completely cold.
Access and Prep: Remove any skid plates or panels needed to access the radiator and lower radiator hose. Place your drain pan underneath.
Open the System: Remove the radiator cap. This will allow the coolant to drain smoothly.
Drain the Old Coolant: Locate the lowest point in the system, which is usually the hose connected to the bottom of the radiator. Use pliers to slide the spring clamp back, then carefully twist and pull the hose off the radiator fitting. Let the old coolant drain completely into the pan.
Flush with Distilled Water (Recommended): Reconnect the lower hose. Fill the system with distilled water. Start the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes with the heater (if you have one) on full blast. This circulates the water and flushes out any remaining old coolant. Let it cool down and drain the water.
Refill with New Coolant: Securely re-attach the lower radiator hose and its clamp. Using your funnel, slowly pour the new 50/50 coolant into the radiator until it’s full.
Burp the System: Leave the radiator cap off. Start the engine. As it warms up and the thermostat opens, you’ll see the coolant level drop and bubbles come up. This is air escaping the system. Continue adding coolant slowly to keep the radiator full.
Top Off and Seal: Once the bubbles stop and the coolant level is stable, top off the radiator and the overflow reservoir. Securely install the radiator cap.
Final Check: Let the engine run for a few more minutes and check carefully for any leaks, especially around the hose you removed. Take it for a short, easy ride, let it cool down completely one last time, and re-check the level in the reservoir, topping off if needed.

Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Can Am Coolant Type Considerations

Being a responsible off-roader means protecting the trails we love. When it comes to coolant, the most important thing is proper disposal.

Traditional coolants use Ethylene Glycol, which is highly toxic to pets, wildlife, and humans. Its sweet taste is particularly attractive to animals. Never pour used coolant on the ground or down a storm drain.

The best eco-friendly can am coolant type practice is to capture all the old fluid in your drain pan and pour it into the empty coolant jugs. Nearly all auto parts stores, quick lube shops, and municipal hazardous waste facilities will accept used antifreeze for recycling, often for free.

While some less-toxic Propylene Glycol (PG) coolants exist, very few are certified to meet the specific OAT requirements of a Rotax engine. For now, the most sustainable can am coolant type strategy is to use the correct OAT fluid and ensure it gets recycled properly.

Frequently Asked Questions About Can Am Coolant Type

What color is Can-Am coolant?

The official BRP XPS coolant is typically a greenish-yellow. However, you should never rely on color alone to identify a coolant type. Compatible aftermarket OAT coolants can be pink, red, or even purple. The chemistry (OAT, silicate-free, phosphate-free) is what matters, not the dye.

Can I use car coolant in my Can-Am?

Yes, but only if it is the correct type. You can safely use an automotive coolant if it is an OAT (Organic Acid Technology) formula that is specified as silicate-free and phosphate-free. Coolants for modern European or Asian vehicles usually meet these requirements, but you must verify by reading the label.

How often should I change my Can-Am coolant?

Always check your owner’s manual for the official service interval. As a general rule, most experts recommend a full coolant flush every 2 to 5 years. If you ride in extremely hot, dusty, or muddy conditions, leaning toward the shorter end of that interval is cheap insurance.

What happens if I use the wrong coolant in my Can-Am?

Using the wrong coolant can cause a cascade of expensive failures. It can lead to corrosion of the aluminum radiator, premature water pump seal failure from abrasive silicates, and the formation of gel or sludge that clogs cooling passages, leading to severe engine overheating.

Choosing the right coolant is one of the simplest yet most effective things you can do to ensure a long, healthy life for your Can-Am. It’s a small detail that makes a huge difference in performance and reliability.

Now you have the expert knowledge to walk into any store with confidence, pick the right bottle, and keep your machine’s cooling system in top-notch condition. Protect your investment, and it’ll pay you back with countless trouble-free hours on the trail.

Stay cool, ride safe, and we’ll see you out there!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.