Can Am Defender Trailing Arm Conversion – Unlock Superior Ride

Let’s be honest. You love your Can-Am Defender for its workhorse attitude, but when the trail gets nasty, does that rear suspension feel a little… basic? That factory A-arm setup is built for hauling, not necessarily for crawling. You feel every bump, lose traction on off-camber sections, and wish you had just a bit more ground clearance.

We’re here to promise you there’s a better way. With the right parts and a solid plan, you can transform your Defender’s ride quality and off-road prowess right in your own garage.

This ultimate guide will walk you through everything you need to know about a can am defender trailing arm conversion. We’ll cover the game-changing benefits, the tools you’ll need, a step-by-step installation process, and how to avoid common pitfalls. Get ready to take your Defender to the next level.

Why Bother with a Can-Am Defender Trailing Arm Conversion?

Before you start turning wrenches, it’s crucial to understand why this upgrade is so popular. Swapping from the stock A-arm configuration to a trailing arm setup is more than just a cosmetic change; it’s a fundamental shift in how your machine’s rear suspension behaves.

Understanding the Difference: A-Arms vs. Trailing Arms

Think of your stock A-arms as a simple hinge. They allow the wheel to move up and down, but the geometry can bind under extreme articulation and cause unwanted changes in camber and toe, leading to a harsher ride and less predictable handling on rough terrain.

A trailing arm, on the other hand, is a much longer arm that pivots from a point further forward on the frame. This design allows the wheel to travel through a much more natural, rearward arc as it moves up. This simple change unlocks a host of performance gains.

The Real-World Benefits of a Trailing Arm Conversion

So, what do you actually get for your time and money? Here are the key benefits of can am defender trailing arm conversion that you’ll feel on the trail:

  • Smoother Ride Quality: The longer arm and improved geometry allow the suspension to soak up bumps and chatter with far more efficiency. It’s the single biggest improvement you’ll notice.
  • Increased Ground Clearance: Most conversion kits feature a high-clearance design, lifting the lowest point of the suspension further away from rocks, stumps, and other obstacles.
  • Improved Articulation & Traction: Trailing arms allow for greater wheel travel and help keep your tires planted on the ground over uneven surfaces, dramatically improving traction when crawling or navigating ruts.
  • Enhanced Stability: The new geometry often results in a slightly longer wheelbase, which adds to the machine’s stability at higher speeds and on steep climbs.
  • Durability: Aftermarket trailing arms are typically built from heavy-duty steel, making them far more robust than the stamped factory components. They’re designed to take a beating.

Gearing Up: Tools and Parts You’ll Need for the Swap

A successful project starts with having the right gear on hand. Rushing to the auto parts store mid-job is frustrating and kills your momentum. Gather everything you need before you start.

Essential Tools for the Job

This isn’t a simple oil change, but you don’t need a full professional shop either. Here’s a solid list of what to have ready:

  • Heavy-Duty Jack and Jack Stands: Safety first! Never, ever work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use properly rated jack stands.
  • Metric Socket Set & Wrench Set: You’ll need a variety of sizes, typically from 15mm to 22mm. A good mix of deep and shallow sockets is helpful.
  • Breaker Bar: Some of those factory bolts will be on there tight. A long breaker bar will be your best friend.
  • Torque Wrench: This is non-negotiable. Suspension components must be torqued to the manufacturer’s specifications for safety and proper function.
  • Ball Joint Press/Separator Tool: You may be able to get by with a hammer, but the right tool makes removing the ball joints much easier and safer.
  • Dead Blow Hammer or Mallet: For persuading stubborn parts without damaging them.
  • Pry Bars: Useful for aligning bolt holes and manipulating suspension components.
  • Safety Glasses and Gloves: Protect yourself. Rust, dirt, and pinched fingers are no fun.
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Parts Checklist

Beyond the obvious, make sure your kit is complete and consider replacing a few related items while you’re in there.

  • The Trailing Arm Conversion Kit: This should include the trailing arms, radius rods (if applicable), and all necessary hardware (bolts, nuts, spacers). Double-check the contents against the manufacturer’s list as soon as it arrives.
  • New Bushings: Many kits come with new bushings, but if not, now is the perfect time to replace your worn-out stock ones.
  • New Ball Joints: It’s highly recommended to press new ball joints into your new trailing arms rather than trying to salvage the old ones.
  • Thread-locking Compound (Blue): For ensuring critical bolts don’t back out from vibration.
  • Anti-Seize Lubricant: For threads on bolts that you may want to remove later, like shock bolts.

The Ultimate Can-Am Defender Trailing Arm Conversion Guide

Alright, it’s time to get to work. This section provides a clear, step-by-step process. Remember to work slowly, stay organized, and always prioritize safety. This is the core of how to can am defender trailing arm conversion successfully.

  1. Step 1: Preparation and Safety

    Park your Defender on a level, solid surface. Chock the front wheels to prevent rolling. Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly while the machine is still on the ground.

    Using your floor jack, lift the rear of the machine and securely place your jack stands under the frame. Ensure the Defender is stable before proceeding. Remove the rear wheels.

  2. Step 2: Disassembly of the Stock Suspension

    Start by removing the rear shocks. You’ll typically need to unbolt them from the trailing arm at the bottom and the frame at the top. This will allow the suspension to droop completely.

    Next, disconnect the brake calipers and tie them up out of the way with a zip tie or bungee cord. Do not let them hang by the brake line. Disconnect the hub assembly from the stock A-arms by removing the ball joint nuts and separating the joints.

    Finally, unbolt the upper and lower A-arms from the frame. This is where your breaker bar will come in handy. Keep track of all your hardware—placing bolts for each side in separate magnetic trays is a great pro tip.

  3. Step 3: Preparing and Installing the New Trailing Arms

    If your new arms require it, now is the time to press in your new ball joints and bushings. Take your time to ensure they are seated correctly and fully.

    Carefully lift the new trailing arm into position and loosely attach it to the forward frame mount. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Attach any associated radius rods if your kit includes them, again leaving the hardware loose for now.

  4. Step 4: Reassembly and Initial Tightening

    Reconnect the hub assembly to the new ball joint on the trailing arm. Reinstall your shocks, but again, keep the bolts snug, not tight.

    The key here is to get everything connected without putting it in a bind. The suspension needs to be able to settle into its natural position before you apply final torque.

  5. Step 5: Setting the Suspension and Final Torque

    Reinstall the wheels and snug up the lug nuts. Using your jack, carefully lift the suspension on one side until it is supporting the weight of the vehicle (ride height). This is a critical step. Tightening suspension bolts with the wheels hanging in the air will preload the bushings, causing them to fail prematurely.

    With the suspension loaded, use your torque wrench to tighten all the pivot bolts—trailing arm to frame, radius rods, and shock mounts—to the manufacturer’s specified torque values. Repeat for the other side.

    Lower the vehicle completely and torque your lug nuts in a star pattern to the correct spec.

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Common Problems with Can-Am Defender Trailing Arm Conversion (And How to Avoid Them)

Even with a perfect plan, you can hit a snag. Here are some common problems with can am defender trailing arm conversion and our best tips for a smooth process.

Problem: Bolt Holes Won’t Line Up

Solution: This is almost always because something is in a bind. Use a pry bar for minor adjustments or a ratchet strap to gently pull a component into place. Remember, all bolts should be left loose until the very end to allow for this wiggle room.

Problem: Clunking or Popping Noises After Install

Solution: The number one cause is a bolt that wasn’t torqued correctly. Go back and re-check every single nut and bolt with your torque wrench, especially after the first ride. Also, ensure all spacers included in the kit were installed in the correct locations.

Problem: The Ride Feels Stiff or Bouncy

Solution: Your shocks may need adjustment. If you have adjustable shocks, you may need to soften the compression or rebound settings to match the new suspension geometry. Also, verify you torqued the pivot bolts at ride height, not at full droop.

Post-Conversion Care: Best Practices for Your New Setup

Your new suspension is on, but the job isn’t quite done. Following a good can am defender trailing arm conversion care guide will ensure longevity and performance. These are the can am defender trailing arm conversion best practices we follow in our shop.

After your first 25-50 miles of riding, perform a full bolt check. Go over every nut and bolt you touched and re-torque it to spec. Things can settle and loosen slightly during the initial break-in period.

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Keep the pivot points and bushings clean. After a muddy ride, take the time to pressure wash the suspension components. Grit and grime can accelerate wear on your new bushings.

Periodically inspect your bushings for signs of cracking or excessive play. High-quality aftermarket bushings should last a long time, but they are still a wear item. Catching a worn bushing early can prevent damage to the trailing arm or frame mounts.

Thinking Green: Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Trailing Arm Conversion Tips

Being an off-roader means respecting the environment we love to explore. While a suspension job isn’t typically seen through a “green” lens, there are ways to be responsible.

For a more sustainable can am defender trailing arm conversion, consider how you dispose of old parts. Don’t just toss the old A-arms in the trash. They are made of steel and can be recycled at a local scrap metal facility.

When cleaning parts, opt for a biodegradable degreaser instead of harsh chemical solvents. For an eco-friendly can am defender trailing arm conversion, choose high-quality, durable parts from reputable manufacturers. Buying a well-made kit that lasts for years is far more sustainable than replacing cheap, poorly made parts every season, which just creates more waste.

Frequently Asked Questions About Can-Am Defender Trailing Arm Conversion

Is a trailing arm conversion hard to install?

For a moderately experienced DIY mechanic with the right tools, it’s a very manageable weekend project. If you’re not comfortable with setting torque specs or pressing ball joints, it might be best to have a professional shop handle the installation.

Do I need a lift kit with a trailing arm conversion?

Not necessarily. Many trailing arm kits provide a small amount of inherent lift (1-2 inches) due to their design and improved clearance. They are compatible with most bracket lift kits if you want to go even higher, but you may need longer shocks to do so.

Will this conversion void my Can-Am warranty?

Installing any aftermarket part has the potential to affect your warranty. Generally, a dealer would have to prove that the aftermarket part directly caused the failure of a warrantied component. It’s always best to check with your local dealer to understand their specific policies.

Upgrading your Defender with a trailing arm conversion is one of the most rewarding modifications you can make. You’re not just adding a cool-looking part; you’re fundamentally improving the machine’s capability and comfort. Take your time, double-check your work, and get ready to enjoy a whole new level of performance on the trail.

Stay safe out there, and happy wrenching!

Thomas Corle
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