There’s no sound quite like it, and it’s never a good one. That sudden, violent thwack-thwack-thwack from your CVT housing, followed by a complete loss of power. You’ve just shredded a drive belt, miles from the trailhead. We’ve all been there, and it can turn an epic day of riding into a long, frustrating recovery mission.
But what if you could avoid that scenario altogether? We promise this guide will give you the confidence and know-how to tackle this critical maintenance task yourself. A proactive can am drive belt replacement isn’t just about fixing a problem; it’s about preventing one, ensuring your machine delivers peak performance when you demand it most.
In this article, you’ll learn how to spot a failing belt, get a complete list of tools you’ll need, follow our detailed step-by-step replacement process, and discover pro tips that will make your new belt last longer than ever. Let’s get your rig trail-proofed.
Why Your Can-Am Drive Belt is the Unsung Hero of Your Ride
Think of your Can-Am’s drive belt as the transmission. It’s a heavy-duty, reinforced rubber belt that sits between two variable-diameter pulleys, known as the primary (drive) and secondary (driven) clutches. Its one job is to continuously and seamlessly transfer power from the engine to the drivetrain.
This little component is under immense stress. It’s constantly being squeezed, stretched, and subjected to extreme heat and friction. When it’s in good shape, you get smooth acceleration and responsive power. When it’s worn, you get slippage, poor performance, and eventually, failure.
Understanding the benefits of can am drive belt replacement before it fails is key. A fresh belt means restored performance, peace of mind on the trail, and the prevention of potential secondary damage to your clutches if a belt lets go catastrophically.
Telltale Signs: When to Replace Your Can-Am Drive Belt
Your machine will almost always give you warnings before a belt completely fails. Knowing what to look and listen for is the first step in any good can am drive belt replacement care guide. Pay attention to these signs.
Visual Inspection Cues
Periodically pulling your CVT cover for a quick look is one of the best habits you can develop. It only takes a few minutes and can save you hours of headache. Here’s what to look for on the belt:
- Glazing: Shiny, smooth spots on the sides of the belt, indicating it’s been slipping and creating excessive heat.
- Cracking: Small cracks, especially on the inner or outer cogged surfaces, are a sure sign the rubber is breaking down.
- Hourglassing: Noticeable concave wear on the sides of the belt, making it look like an hourglass. This means it’s worn thin and can no longer grip the clutch sheaves properly.
- Missing Cogs: If any of the teeth on the inside of the belt are chunked or missing, replacement is not optional—it’s immediate.
- Cord Separation: Fraying edges or visible cords sticking out means the belt’s internal structure is failing.
Performance-Based Warnings
Sometimes you can feel a problem before you can see it. If you experience any of the following, your drive belt is the first thing you should suspect:
- A sudden jerky or hesitant feeling on acceleration.
- A noticeable loss of top-end speed.
- Engine RPMs that climb without a corresponding increase in speed (slipping).
- A distinct burning rubber smell after a hard run or while under a heavy load.
The Importance of Mileage and Hours
Your owner’s manual provides a recommended service interval, but treat it as a baseline, not a rule. If you ride hard—lots of mud, rock crawling, or high-speed desert running—you should check and replace your belt far more often. Heat is the number one killer of belts, so aggressive riding drastically shortens its lifespan.
Gearing Up: Tools and Parts for a Flawless Belt Swap
Having the right tools makes this job go from frustrating to simple. You don’t need a full professional shop, but a few specific items are non-negotiable. This is the foundation of our how to can am drive belt replacement section.
Essential Tools
- Can-Am Belt Changing Tool: This is a model-specific threaded tool that spreads the secondary clutch. Don’t try to pry the clutch open with a screwdriver!
- Socket Set and Ratchet: You’ll need 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets for most models to remove body panels and the CVT cover.
- Torque Wrench: Crucial for properly tightening the CVT cover bolts upon reassembly to prevent leaks and warping.
- Air Compressor or Shop Vacuum: For blowing the dust and old belt debris out of the CVT housing.
- Brake Cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol: To clean the clutch sheave faces.
- Clean, Lint-Free Rags: For wiping down the clutches.
Choosing the Right Belt: OEM vs. Aftermarket
You have two main choices: stick with the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) belt from Can-Am or go with a performance aftermarket brand like GBoost, Trinity Racing, or Ultimax. OEM belts are a guaranteed fit and are designed for the stock power of your machine. Aftermarket belts often claim to handle more heat and offer better grip, which can be beneficial for modified machines.
The most important thing? Ensure you have the exact part number for your machine’s year and model. A belt that is even a few millimeters off in length or width will destroy itself and potentially your clutches.
The Ultimate Can Am Drive Belt Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step
Alright, let’s get our hands dirty. This step-by-step can am drive belt replacement guide will walk you through the entire process. Take your time, stay organized, and you’ll be done in no time.
- Safety First: Park your Can-Am on level ground. Ensure the engine is off, the key is out of the ignition, and the machine is in Park. Most importantly, let the engine and exhaust cool down completely before you begin.
- Access the CVT Cover: Depending on your model (Maverick, Defender, Outlander), you may need to remove a side panel, seat, or storage box to get clear access to the plastic or aluminum CVT housing.
- Remove the CVT Cover: Use your ratchet and socket to remove all the bolts around the perimeter of the CVT cover. Keep them in a magnetic tray so you don’t lose any. Gently pull the cover straight off. It might be snug on the alignment dowels.
- Spread the Secondary Clutch: Locate the threaded hole on the outer sheave of the secondary clutch (the one closer to the rear of the vehicle). Thread your belt changing tool in by hand, then use a wrench to tighten it. You will see the clutch sheaves spread apart, loosening the tension on the belt.
- Remove the Old Belt: With the tension released, simply walk the belt up and off the secondary clutch, then slide it off the primary clutch at the front.
- INSPECT AND CLEAN: This is the most critical step and one of the most important can am drive belt replacement tips. Use your air compressor to blow out all the black belt dust. Inspect the clutches for any gouges or damage. Then, take a clean rag with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and thoroughly wipe down the faces of both the primary and secondary clutch sheaves until the rag comes away clean. This removes old belt residue and ensures your new belt grips properly.
- Install the New Belt: Check if your new belt has directional arrows printed on it. If so, ensure they point forward (in the direction of engine rotation). Loop the belt over the primary clutch first, then walk it down into the spread-apart secondary clutch.
- Release Clutch and Seat the Belt: Unscrew and remove the belt changing tool. The secondary clutch will spring back and apply tension. To ensure the belt is properly seated, reach in and rotate the secondary clutch by hand several times. You’ll see the belt ride up to the top of the sheaves.
- Reinstall the CVT Cover: Make sure the rubber seal on the cover is clean and properly seated in its groove. Carefully place the cover back on, ensuring it sits flush. Start all the bolts by hand, then use your torque wrench to tighten them to the factory specification (usually around 7-9 ft-lbs) in a star pattern. This ensures an even seal.
- Reassemble Your Machine: Reinstall any panels, seats, or accessories you removed. You’re almost done!
Pro-Level Can Am Drive Belt Replacement Tips for Maximum Life
Just installing the belt isn’t enough. Following these can am drive belt replacement best practices will dramatically increase its lifespan and performance.
The Critical Break-In Procedure
A new belt needs to be broken in to mate properly with the clutch surfaces. For the first 20-30 miles, avoid full throttle, heavy loads, and prolonged high-speed runs. Vary your speed and RPMs frequently to heat-cycle the belt and wear it in evenly.
Cleaning is Not Optional
We mentioned it in the steps, but it bears repeating. A dirty clutch face is like sandpaper to your new belt. Every time you have the cover off, clean the sheaves. It’s the single best thing you can do for belt longevity.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Belt Care
Thinking about a sustainable can am drive belt replacement approach? The best way is to maximize the life of the part you have. Proper break-in and regular clutch cleaning reduces consumption and waste. When you do discard an old belt, don’t just toss it in the trash. Check with your local auto parts store or recycling center, as some facilities accept rubber belts for specialized recycling. An eco-friendly can am drive belt replacement mindset is all about maintenance and responsible disposal.
Avoiding Common Problems with Can Am Drive Belt Replacement
Even seasoned mechanics can make mistakes. Here are some common pitfalls to watch out for during your can am drive belt replacement.
- Using the Wrong Belt: Double and triple-check that part number! The wrong belt will fail quickly.
- Pinching the CVT Seal: When reinstalling the cover, make sure the rubber seal doesn’t get pinched or twisted. A bad seal lets in water and dust, which will destroy your clutches and new belt.
- Skipping the Cleaning Step: Putting a new belt on dirty clutches is like taking a shower and putting on dirty clothes. It defeats the purpose and causes premature wear.
- Forgetting the Break-In: Going straight to a full-throttle run on a new belt is the fastest way to glaze it and ruin it.
Frequently Asked Questions About Can Am Drive Belt Replacement
How often should I change my Can-Am drive belt?
There’s no single answer. A casual trail rider might get over 1,000 miles, while an aggressive mud bogger or racer might change theirs every 200-300 miles or even before every race. The best practice is to inspect it often and replace it based on condition, not just mileage.
Can I reuse an old belt as a spare?
Yes, but only if it’s in good condition. If you replace your belt proactively, the old one can make a great “get you home” spare for the trail. Never keep a belt that is cracked, glazed, or frayed as a spare.
What’s that burning smell after installing a new belt?
A slight smell from the mold release compounds on a brand-new belt is normal for the first few minutes of running. However, a strong, persistent burning rubber smell indicates a problem, most likely belt slippage due to dirty clutches or an alignment issue.
Do I really need a torque wrench for the CVT cover?
Yes. Over-tightening can crack the cover or warp it, while under-tightening can allow the seal to leak. A cheap torque wrench is a small investment to ensure the job is done right and your expensive clutch system stays protected.
You did it. By following this guide, you’ve not only replaced a critical component but also gained valuable experience and saved yourself a hefty bill from the dealership. Performing your own can am drive belt replacement is one of the most empowering DIY jobs an owner can do.
Remember the key takeaways: be proactive, always clean your clutches, and never skip the break-in. Now you’re equipped with the knowledge to keep your machine reliable and performing at its best.
Ride hard, ride safe, and we’ll see you on the trail!
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