Can Am Maverick X3 35S – The Ultimate Guide To Upgrading Without

There’s no denying it. A Can-Am Maverick X3 sitting on a set of massive 35-inch tires is an awe-inspiring sight. It screams capability, giving you the ground clearance to conquer gnarlier obstacles and a stance that tells everyone on the trail you mean business. You’ve probably seen them and thought, “I need that.”

But here’s the hard truth from the shop floor: just slapping bigger rubber on your machine is one of the fastest ways to a broken axle, a smoked belt, or worse—a weekend-ending failure miles from the truck. We promise this isn’t to scare you off, but to prepare you. Doing this upgrade correctly is about more than just tires; it’s about building a balanced, reliable system.

In this complete can am maverick x3 35s guide, we’re pulling back the curtain. We’ll walk you through the real benefits, the absolutely essential supporting mods you can’t skip, how to do the swap, and how to avoid the common problems that sideline so many other riders. Let’s get your X3 ready to roll big, the right way.

Why Go Big? The Real Benefits of Can Am Maverick X3 35s

Moving up to 35-inch tires is one of the most significant performance and aesthetic upgrades you can make. It’s a game-changer for serious off-roaders. But what exactly are you gaining? Let’s break down the tangible benefits of can am maverick x3 35s.

Unmatched Ground Clearance

This is the number one reason most riders make the jump. A larger tire diameter physically lifts your entire machine—differentials, A-arms, and frame—higher off the ground. That extra inch or two of clearance is the difference between sliding over a rock and getting high-centered on it.

You’ll find yourself clearing ledges, ruts, and logs that used to force you to find a go-around. It fundamentally changes the lines you can take on a trail.

Superior Obstacle Approach

Think of a skateboard wheel hitting a pebble versus a monster truck tire hitting a curb. A larger tire has a better “angle of attack,” allowing it to roll up and over obstacles more easily instead of being stopped by them. This makes for a smoother, more capable ride in technical rock gardens and choppy terrain.

Increased Traction and Footprint

When aired down appropriately for the trail, a 35-inch tire has a much larger contact patch on the ground than a stock tire. This “footprint” spreads the vehicle’s weight over a wider area, providing significantly more grip in sand, mud, and loose dirt. It’s like swapping your running shoes for a pair of snowshoes in deep powder.

Aggressive, Purpose-Built Stance

Let’s be honest—it just looks awesome. A Maverick X3 on 35s has an imposing, aggressive presence that stock machines can’t match. It’s a visual statement that your UTV is built for serious performance and isn’t afraid of a challenge.

Before You Buy: The Essential Checklist for a 35-Inch Tire Upgrade

Okay, you’re sold on the benefits. Before you add four new tires to your online cart, stop. To properly run can am maverick x3 35s, you need to address the rest of the machine first. Skipping these steps is asking for trouble. Think of this as your pre-flight checklist.

1. Suspension Lift and Clearance

Your stock X3 does not have enough room for 35s. You will need to create space to prevent rubbing that can destroy your expensive new tires and your machine’s plastics. You have a few options:

  • Bracket Lift Kit: A 2-3 inch bracket lift is a common and cost-effective way to get the initial height you need.
  • High-Clearance A-Arms: Upgrading to high-clearance forward A-arms not only provides more room but also moves the front wheels forward slightly, improving stability and preventing rubbing when turning.
  • Portal Gear Lifts: For the ultimate setup, portals provide a 4-6 inch lift right at the hub and offer a gear reduction, which we’ll discuss next. They are the most expensive but most effective solution.
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2. Clutching, Clutching, Clutching!

This is the single most critical and most often overlooked upgrade. Larger, heavier tires put a massive strain on your stock clutch and drive belt. The stock clutch is calibrated for smaller, lighter tires. Without a change, you will burn through belts, experience sluggish performance, and risk catastrophic clutch failure.

You must install an aftermarket clutch kit designed for 33-35 inch tires. Brands like KWI, STM, and GBoost offer kits with different springs and weights that recalibrate your CVT system. This allows the clutch to engage properly, back-shift effectively on hills, and keep your belt temperatures in a safe range.

3. Drivetrain Reinforcements

More weight, more grip, and more rotating mass means more stress on everything that delivers power to the ground. Your drivetrain is now the weak link.

  • Axles: Stock axles are often the first to go. Upgrading to heavy-duty axles from brands like RCV or Turner is highly recommended, especially if you’re an aggressive driver.
  • Tie Rods: The factory tie rods can bend or break under the increased steering load. Beefier aftermarket tie rod kits are a smart investment for reliability.
  • Ball Joints: The extra leverage from bigger tires puts a ton of stress on your ball joints. Consider upgrading to heavy-duty versions when your stock ones wear out.

How to Can Am Maverick X3 35s: A Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Once you’ve got your supporting mods handled, it’s time for the fun part. This is your basic how to can am maverick x3 35s installation process. Remember, safety first!

  1. Prepare Your Workspace: Park your X3 on a flat, level surface like a garage floor or concrete pad. Chock the wheels you aren’t working on to prevent rolling.
  2. Gather Your Tools: You’ll need a good quality floor jack, sturdy jack stands (never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack), a lug wrench or impact gun with the correct socket, and a torque wrench.
  3. Break Lugs Loose: Before lifting the vehicle, use your lug wrench to break the lug nuts loose on all four wheels. Just a quarter-turn is enough; don’t remove them yet. This is much safer than trying to wrestle with them when the wheel is in the air.
  4. Lift the Vehicle: Place your floor jack under a solid frame point and lift one corner or one end of the vehicle until the tire is off the ground.
  5. Secure with Jack Stands: Place a jack stand securely under the frame near where you lifted. Slowly lower the jack until the vehicle’s weight rests firmly on the stand. Now it’s safe to work.
  6. Remove the Old Wheels: Finish unscrewing the lug nuts and carefully pull the stock wheel and tire off the hub.
  7. Install the New Wheels: Line up the bolt pattern of your new wheel with the studs on the hub and slide it on. Thread the lug nuts on by hand to ensure they aren’t cross-threaded.
  8. Snug the Lugs: Use your lug wrench to snug the lug nuts down in a star pattern. This helps seat the wheel evenly. Don’t go for full torque yet.
  9. Lower and Torque: Raise the vehicle slightly with the jack, remove the jack stand, and slowly lower the tire to the ground. Now, use your torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the factory-specified torque (check your owner’s manual, but it’s typically 80-95 ft-lbs) in a star pattern. This is a critical step for safety!
  10. Repeat and Check: Repeat the process for the other three wheels. After you’re done, double-check the torque on all 16 lug nuts.
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One of the most important can am maverick x3 35s tips is to re-check your lug nut torque after the first 25-50 miles of riding. Wheels can settle, and lugs can loosen slightly.

Common Problems with Can Am Maverick X3 35s (And How to Avoid Them)

Even with the right prep, running big tires introduces new wear and tear. Being aware of the common problems with can am maverick x3 35s helps you stay ahead of them.

Premature Belt Wear or Failure

  • Cause: Improper clutching, aggressive driving (too much throttle at low speeds), or a worn-out belt.
  • Solution: Install the right clutch kit! Learn to use low gear for technical crawling and slow-speed trails. Carry a spare belt and the tools to change it on the trail.

Broken Axles

  • Cause: The massive traction of 35s combined with “throttle-out” situations when a tire is bound up.
  • Solution: Upgrade to heavy-duty axles. More importantly, learn to drive smarter. If you’re in a rock garden, use finesse and momentum rather than just mashing the gas.

Steering Rack and Power Steering (DPS) Strain

  • Cause: The increased effort required to turn the heavy tire and wheel combo puts a huge strain on the entire steering system.
  • Solution: Install a heavy-duty tie rod kit to prevent bending. Be mindful of your power steering unit—if you hear it whining or straining excessively, you may need to give it a break or consider a heavy-duty aftermarket rack for long-term durability.

Accelerated Wear on Hubs and Wheel Bearings

  • Cause: The increased weight and offset of aftermarket wheels put more leverage and load on your wheel bearings.
  • Solution: This is a wear-and-tear item. Be prepared to replace wheel bearings more frequently than you would with stock tires. Learn to check for play by grabbing the tire at the top and bottom and trying to wiggle it. Any clunking or looseness means it’s time for a new bearing.

The Long Haul: Your Can Am Maverick X3 35s Care Guide

Your work isn’t done after the install. A proper can am maverick x3 35s care guide ensures your investment lasts and your rig stays reliable. These are the can am maverick x3 35s best practices for long-term ownership.

Regular Inspections are Non-Negotiable

Before every single ride, do a quick walk-around. After every ride, do a more thorough check. Look for:

  • Tire Pressure: Set it correctly for the terrain you’ll be riding.
  • Lug Nut Torque: Give them a quick check, especially after a rough ride.
  • Suspension Components: Look for any signs of cracking on A-arms, bent tie rods, or leaking shocks.
  • CV Boot Condition: Check for rips or tears in your axle boots. A torn boot lets in dirt and water, quickly destroying the CV joint inside.
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A Nod to Sustainable Off-Roading

Part of a good care guide is being a responsible rider. A well-maintained machine is a more sustainable can am maverick x3 35s setup. It’s less likely to leak fluids on the trail, and proper tire pressure minimizes your impact on the terrain.

This is also where an eco-friendly can am maverick x3 35s mindset comes in. With the capability of 35s, it’s tempting to forge new paths. Stick to designated trails. Follow Tread Lightly! principles to ensure our riding areas stay open for everyone to enjoy for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions About Can Am Maverick X3 35s

Can I run 35s on a stock Can-Am Maverick X3?

No, not without significant issues. You will experience major tire rubbing, especially when turning or articulating the suspension. You absolutely need a lift and likely forward A-arms to create the necessary clearance. More importantly, you risk severe damage to your clutch and drivetrain without supporting mods.

What is the most important upgrade to run 35-inch tires?

A clutch kit. While suspension for clearance is physically necessary to fit the tires, the clutch kit is what keeps your machine from destroying itself. It’s the heart of the powertrain, and it must be recalibrated for the increased load of heavy tires to prevent belt and component failure.

Do 35-inch tires make my X3 feel slower?

Yes, they can, especially without proper clutching. The larger diameter effectively changes your final gear ratio, making it “taller.” A properly tuned clutch kit helps to overcome this by keeping the engine in its optimal powerband, restoring much of that snappy, responsive feel.

What tire pressure should I run in my 35s?

This depends heavily on the tire construction, wheel type (beadlock or not), and terrain. A good starting point for general trail riding is often between 10-14 PSI. For rock crawling, you might go lower (6-10 PSI), and for high-speed desert running, you might go higher (15-18 PSI). Always experiment in a safe area to see what works best for your setup.

Upgrading your Maverick X3 to 35s is an exciting step that unlocks a whole new level of capability. It’s not a simple bolt-on affair, but by treating it as a complete system upgrade—addressing suspension, clutching, and drivetrain—you can build an absolute beast of a machine that’s both dominant on the trail and reliable for the long haul. Take your time, do it right, and get ready to conquer everything in your path. Stay safe out there and have fun!

Thomas Corle
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