Let’s be honest. That stock Can-Am Maverick X3 is an absolute weapon right off the showroom floor. But you can’t help but stare at those wheel wells and think, “I could definitely go bigger.” The dream of putting your can am maverick x3 on 35s is a common one, promising a machine that looks meaner and crawls over obstacles like they’re not even there.
But slapping on bigger tires isn’t just a bolt-on-and-go affair. It’s a gateway to a whole new world of performance, and if you’re not prepared, a world of broken parts. We’re here to give you the full, unfiltered scoop from the FatBoysOffroad garage—the good, the bad, and the expensive—on making the jump to 35-inch tires successfully.
This is your complete can am maverick x3 on 35s guide. We’ll break down the real-world benefits, the essential parts you can’t skip, the common problems to watch out for, and how to keep your upgraded rig running strong for years to come.
The Big Payoff: Benefits of a Can-Am Maverick X3 on 35s
Before we dive into the nuts and bolts, let’s talk about why this upgrade is so popular. It’s not just about looks; the functional advantages can completely transform your off-road experience.
Unmatched Ground Clearance
This is the number one reason riders make the switch. A larger tire physically lifts your entire machine—differentials, A-arms, and frame—higher off the ground. That extra couple of inches is the difference between scraping your skid plate over a rock ledge and clearing it completely.
You’ll find yourself gliding over ruts and obstacles that used to force you to pick a careful, slow line. It opens up new, more challenging trails and gives you incredible confidence in rough terrain.
Superior Obstacle Crawling
Bigger tires have a larger contact patch and a better “angle of attack.” Think about rolling a skateboard wheel versus a monster truck tire at a curb. The bigger tire rolls over it with ease.
The same principle applies on the trail. Your 35s will climb up and over rocks, logs, and ledges with significantly less effort and less chance of getting hung up. For rock crawlers, this is a game-changer.
The Aggressive Stance
Okay, let’s admit it—it looks awesome. A Maverick X3 on 35s has an aggressive, commanding presence that a stock machine just can’t match. It looks purposeful and capable because, when done right, it is.
The “Must-Have” List: How to Can-Am Maverick X3 on 35s the Right Way
This is where the real work begins. Simply bolting on 35s without supporting mods is a recipe for a very short, very expensive ride back to the trailer. Here is the list of parts you need to budget for to do this upgrade correctly.
Clutching is Non-Negotiable
If you take only one thing from this article, let it be this: you must upgrade your clutch. The stock clutch is calibrated for smaller, lighter tires. The increased rotational mass and weight of 35s will cause it to slip, overheat, and absolutely shred your drive belt.
A quality clutch kit (like those from KWI or S3 Power Sports) includes different weights, springs, and a custom helix. This allows you to recalibrate the CVT system to engage properly with the larger tires, putting the power to the ground efficiently and saving your belt.
Lift Kits and Suspension Upgrades
You need to make room for those big new tires. While some aggressive drivers might try to stuff them with no lift, you’ll get significant rubbing at full compression or full steering lock. A modest 2-3 inch lift kit is often enough.
More importantly, consider upgrading to high-clearance A-arms. These are designed with an arched profile to give you even more ground clearance and are typically built much stronger than the stock arms, which will now be under more stress.
Stronger Axles and Drivetrain Components
The stock axles on an X3 are decent, but they were not designed for the leverage and shock loads of a 35-inch tire. A sudden grab for traction on a rock can easily snap a stock CV joint or axle shaft.
Upgrading to heavy-duty axles from brands like SuperATV (think Rhino 2.0s) or RCV is a smart investment in reliability. You should also consider a front differential brace to prevent the housing from cracking under load.
Wheels with the Right Offset
You can’t just mount 35s on your stock wheels. You’ll need aftermarket 15-inch wheels (or larger) to fit most 35-inch UTV tires. Pay close attention to the wheel offset.
A common offset is 5+2, which means the mounting surface is 5 inches from the back of the wheel and 2 inches from the front. This typically widens your stance slightly, improving stability without putting excessive leverage on your wheel bearings and ball joints.
Common Problems with a Can-Am Maverick X3 on 35s (And How to Fix Them)
Even with the right parts, running big tires introduces new stresses. Being aware of these common problems will help you diagnose issues quickly and prevent catastrophic failures on the trail.
The Dreaded Belt Shred
Symptom: A sudden loss of power, often accompanied by a loud bang and the smell of burnt rubber.
Cause: This is almost always a clutch issue. Either you didn’t install a clutch kit, or it’s not tuned correctly for your tire weight and riding style.
Solution: Install a proper clutch kit. Learn how to inspect your belt for glazing or hourglassing before every ride. Always carry a spare belt and the tools to change it on the trail.
Axle and CV Joint Failure
Symptom: A loud clicking or popping sound when turning, or a complete loss of power to one wheel.
Cause: The extreme angles from a lift kit combined with the high torque load from big tires puts immense stress on the CV joints.
Solution: Upgrade to heavy-duty axles. Be mindful of your throttle input in high-traction situations or when the suspension is at full droop. Smooth is fast.
Premature Wear on Ball Joints and Bushings
Symptom: Sloppy steering, a clunking noise from the front end, or visible play when you shake the tire.
Cause: The increased weight and leverage of the tire and wheel combo wears out stock ball joints, A-arm bushings, and tie rod ends much faster.
Solution: Upgrade to heavy-duty ball joints (like those from Keller Performance) and aftermarket bushings. Inspect them regularly as part of your pre-ride check.
Your Can-Am Maverick X3 on 35s Care Guide: Best Practices for Longevity
Your maintenance routine needs to level up with your tires. Following these can am maverick x3 on 35s best practices will keep you out of the garage and on the dirt.
The Pre-Ride Inspection is Crucial
Before every single ride, you need to do a thorough walk-around. This isn’t optional anymore.
- Grab each tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it. Any play could mean a bad ball joint or wheel bearing.
- Check your lug nuts. Make sure they are torqued to spec.
- Visually inspect your CV boots for any rips or tears. A torn boot will quickly lead to a failed CV joint.
- Look over your A-arms, radius rods, and tie rods for any signs of bending or cracking.
Post-Ride Cleaning and Maintenance
Don’t just park it after a muddy ride. Use a pressure washer to clean your suspension and undercarriage thoroughly. Caked-on mud can hide cracks, accelerate rust, and cause bushings to wear out faster.
This is also a great time to grease all your zerks (fittings) to push out any water and contaminants that may have gotten into your suspension joints.
Sustainable Off-Roading: Eco-Friendly Can-Am Maverick X3 on 35s Tips
Having a bigger, more capable machine comes with a greater responsibility to our trails. A key part of a sustainable can am maverick x3 on 35s setup is how you use it.
Your larger tires can do more damage if you drive irresponsibly. Always follow Tread Lightly principles. Stay on designated trails, avoid spinning your tires excessively which causes erosion, and cross streams only at designated points.
Practicing eco-friendly can am maverick x3 on 35s habits also means responsible maintenance. When changing fluids like oil or coolant, capture them in a drain pan and dispose of them properly at an auto parts store or local recycling center. Never dump fluids on the ground.
Frequently Asked Questions About Putting a Can-Am Maverick X3 on 35s
Do I *really* need a clutch kit for 35s?
Yes. Absolutely, 100%. It is the single most important supporting modification. Skipping it will lead to constant belt failures, poor performance, and potentially damage to your primary or secondary clutch sheaves, which is a very expensive repair.
Can I run 35s without a lift kit?
You can, but it’s not recommended. You will experience significant tire rubbing on the inner fender wells and frame, especially under suspension compression while turning. This can damage your tires and plastic components. A small lift and high-clearance A-arms are the proper way to create clearance.
How much power will I lose with 35s?
You will feel a noticeable loss in initial “snap” or acceleration due to the heavier tires. However, a properly tuned clutch kit is designed to offset this. It adjusts the shift-out to keep the engine in its peak powerband longer, helping to turn the bigger tires effectively. You’re not losing engine horsepower, but you are changing how it’s delivered to the ground.
What’s the best wheel offset for 35-inch tires on an X3?
A 5+2 offset is the most common and widely recommended starting point. It provides a good balance of widening the vehicle’s track width for stability while minimizing the scrub radius and extra stress on steering and suspension components. Avoid deep-dish, low-offset wheels that push the tires way out, as they will dramatically accelerate wear on bearings and ball joints.
Making the move to a can am maverick x3 on 35s is a serious upgrade that can unlock a new level of capability. It’s not just about buying tires; it’s about building a stronger, more reliable system around them. By investing in the right supporting parts and adopting a more rigorous maintenance schedule, you’ll build a machine that not only looks incredible but can confidently conquer the toughest terrain you can find.
Take your time, do your research, and invest in quality parts. The trail is waiting. Gear up, do it right, and stay safe out there!
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