Let’s be honest. You’ve either got a can am outlander 2008 sitting in your garage, or you’re thinking about getting one. It’s a legendary machine, a beast from an era when ATVs were hitting a serious stride in power and capability. But you know that a machine of this vintage, no matter how tough, comes with its own set of quirks and needs.
You’ve probably wondered if you have what it takes to keep it running strong, tackle those common issues everyone whispers about on the forums, or even find one worth buying today. You’re in the right place.
We promise this comprehensive guide will give you the confidence to wrench on, maintain, and truly understand your Outlander. We’ll walk you through its iconic features, provide a rock-solid maintenance checklist, diagnose common problems, and even offer some smart upgrade tips to make this classic rig your own.
What Makes the 2008 Can-Am Outlander a Trail Legend?
Before we get our hands dirty, it’s worth appreciating why this specific model year is still so respected. The 2008 Outlander wasn’t just another quad; it was a statement from BRP (Bombardier Recreational Products) that blended raw power with innovative engineering.
Understanding these core features helps you appreciate its performance and know what to focus on during maintenance. This is a key part of our can am outlander 2008 guide.
The Heart of the Beast: Rotax V-Twin Power
The biggest draw for many was the engine lineup. While a reliable 400cc single-cylinder was available, the real stars were the liquid-cooled Rotax V-twin engines in 500, 650, and the monstrous 800cc displacements. These powerplants delivered gobs of torque and a signature V-twin rumble that set them apart from the competition.
This power is one of the primary benefits of can am outlander 2008 models, giving them the grunt to tackle steep hills, deep mud, and heavy towing jobs with ease.
A Smoother Ride: TTI Rear Suspension
Can-Am’s Torsional Trailing Arm Independent (TTI) rear suspension was a game-changer. Instead of traditional A-arms, it uses two simple trailing arms. This design allows the wheels to move vertically with less camber change, keeping the tires planted for better traction and providing a remarkably plush ride over rough terrain.
Smart Traction: Visco-Lok Front Differential
The Visco-Lok is an automatic locking front differential. When it senses one front wheel spinning faster than the other, it progressively transfers power to the wheel with more grip. It’s a simple, effective system that requires no buttons or levers from the rider, making it perfect for unpredictable trail conditions.
Your Essential Maintenance Checklist: A Can-Am Outlander 2008 Care Guide
Consistent maintenance is the single most important thing you can do to ensure your Outlander lives a long, reliable life. Sticking to these can am outlander 2008 best practices will save you from costly headaches down the road. Grab your toolbox and let’s get started.
H3: Fluids are Lifeblood
Neglecting fluids is like asking for engine or drivetrain failure. Make these checks a regular habit.
- Engine Oil & Filter: Check your oil before every ride. Change it and the filter every 50 hours or once a season, whichever comes first. Use a quality oil like XPS 5W-40 Synthetic Blend specifically designed for Rotax engines.
- Coolant: The V-twin engines can run hot. Always check the coolant level in the overflow bottle before starting. Look for any green or orange puddles under the machine, which could indicate a hose leak.
- Differential & Gearbox Fluids: These are often forgotten! Change the front and rear differential fluid, along with the gearbox oil, at least once a year. It’s a messy job but critical for longevity.
- Brake Fluid: Check the reservoir levels on the handlebars. If the fluid looks dark and murky, it’s time to flush it with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid.
H3: Mechanical & Electrical Checks
A quick walk-around can catch small issues before they become trail-ending failures.
- CV Boots: Carefully inspect all four CV boots on the front and rear axles. These rubber boots protect the CV joints. A small tear will let in dirt and water, destroying the joint quickly. If you see a tear, replace the boot immediately.
- Tires & Wheels: Check tire pressures for a stable ride. Grab each tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it. Any excessive play could mean a bad wheel bearing or worn ball joint.
- Air Filter: Your Outlander’s engine needs clean air. Pull the air filter and inspect it. If it’s dirty, clean it (if it’s a reusable foam filter) or replace it. In dusty conditions, check it after every ride.
- Battery Terminals: Pop the seat off and check the battery. Ensure the terminals are tight and free of corrosion. A wire brush and some dielectric grease can prevent electrical gremlins.
Tackling Common Problems with the Can-Am Outlander 2008
Even the best machines have their weak spots. Knowing the common problems with can am outlander 2008 models allows you to diagnose issues quickly and confidently. Here’s what to watch out for.
H3: Overheating Issues
If your temperature light is flashing, pull over immediately. The most common culprit is a radiator caked in mud. The radiator is mounted high, but it can still get clogged.
The Fix: Let the machine cool down completely. Use a garden hose (not a pressure washer, which can bend the delicate fins) to spray water from the back of the radiator forward, pushing the mud out the way it came in. If it still overheats, your radiator fan or its sensor might be faulty.
H3: Electrical Gremlins & Starting Problems
Your Outlander won’t start? Don’t panic. Start with the simple stuff. Is the battery fully charged? Are the terminals clean and tight? A cheap multimeter is your best friend here.
If the battery is good, listen for a “click” when you hit the start button. A single click often points to a bad starter solenoid. No click at all could be a bad start button, ignition switch, or blown fuse. A failing stator is another common issue on older models, which will prevent the battery from charging properly.
H3: Drivetrain Noises and Vibrations
Hearing a clicking sound when turning sharply? That’s the classic sign of a worn-out CV joint. A clunking or vibration that gets worse with speed often points to a failing U-joint in the driveshaft or a bad wheel bearing.
Pro Tip: Safely lift the front or rear of the ATV off the ground. Spin the wheels by hand and feel for any roughness or grinding, which indicates a bad bearing.
H3: Frame and Bushing Wear
The first-generation (G1) Outlander frame is strong, but it has known stress points. Regularly inspect the frame welds, especially around the front and rear A-arm mounting points. Also, check for play in your A-arm bushings; worn bushings will cause sloppy handling and uneven tire wear.
A Buyer’s Guide: What to Look for in a Used 2008 Outlander
Looking to buy one of these classic rigs? Fantastic choice. But go in with your eyes open. Here are some crucial can am outlander 2008 tips for inspecting a used machine.
- Cold Start: Insist on seeing the engine start from cold. Watch the exhaust for smoke. A little white vapor is normal, but heavy blue smoke means it’s burning oil, and persistent white smoke could mean a head gasket issue.
- Frame Inspection: Bring a bright flashlight and check every single weld you can see. Surface rust is okay, but deep rust or cracks are a major red flag.
- Test 4WD: Find a patch of loose gravel or dirt. Drive slowly and turn the handlebars. You should feel the Visco-Lok system engage and help pull the front end around.
- Check the Diffs: Ask the owner if you can check the fluid. Pull the front differential fill plug. If the oil looks milky or like coffee with cream, it has water in it, indicating bad seals.
- Ask for Records: A seller who kept receipts for oil, filters, and parts is likely someone who took care of their machine.
Sustainable Off-Roading: Eco-Friendly Best Practices
Being a true off-roader means respecting the trails we love to ride. A sustainable can am outlander 2008 ownership experience is about responsibility.
Adopting eco-friendly can am outlander 2008 habits ensures our riding areas stay open for generations. Always follow Tread Lightly! principles by staying on designated trails and crossing streams only at approved points.
When you perform maintenance, collect all used oil, coolant, and other fluids in sealed containers. Take them to your local auto parts store or municipal recycling center for proper disposal. Never dump them on the ground or down a drain.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Can-Am Outlander 2008
What kind of oil does a 2008 Can-Am Outlander take?
The Rotax V-twin engines perform best with a high-quality 5W-40 synthetic or synthetic-blend motorcycle/ATV oil. BRP’s XPS brand is the factory recommendation, but other reputable brands meeting the JASO MA standard will work well.
How much is a used 2008 Can-Am Outlander worth?
Prices vary widely based on condition, engine size (400, 500, 650, or 800), hours/miles, and included accessories. As of today, expect to pay anywhere from $3,000 for a well-used model to over $5,500 for a pristine, low-hour 800XT.
Is the 2008 Can-Am Outlander a reliable ATV?
Yes, when properly maintained. They are powerful and well-built machines, but their age means that proactive maintenance is key. Addressing the common issues listed in this guide before they become major problems will ensure it remains a very reliable quad.
What are the different engine sizes for the 2008 Outlander?
For 2008, Can-Am offered the Outlander with several engine options: a 400cc H.O. single-cylinder, and the popular Rotax V-twins in 500cc, 650cc, and 800cc H.O. configurations.
The can am outlander 2008 is more than just an old ATV; it’s a piece of off-road history that can still hang with modern machines on the trail. It’s a platform that rewards a hands-on owner with incredible performance and years of adventure.
By following this care guide, staying on top of maintenance, and understanding its quirks, you’re not just keeping a machine alive—you’re preserving a legend. Now get your tools ready, double-check your fluids, and hit the trail with confidence.
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