You’re miles from the trailhead, climbing a steep, dusty incline, and the familiar smell of a hot engine starts to fill the air. You glance down at your temperature gauge and see it creeping into the red. It’s a moment every rider dreads, one that can turn an epic adventure into a long, expensive walk back.
We agree that your Can-Am Outlander 450 is a tough machine, but its high-performance Rotax engine generates a massive amount of heat. The only thing standing between you and a catastrophic engine failure is a few quarts of coolant.
We promise this complete guide will demystify your ATV’s cooling system. We’ll give you the confidence and know-how to check, maintain, and even completely flush your can am outlander 450 coolant like a seasoned pro.
In this article, you’ll get a detailed breakdown of why your coolant is so vital, how to choose the right type, a step-by-step flushing procedure, and troubleshooting tips for common problems. Let’s keep that engine cool and your rides worry-free.
Why Your Can-Am Outlander 450 Coolant is Mission-Critical
It’s easy to overlook that green or orange fluid in your ATV, but its job is one of the most important. Think of it as the lifeblood of your engine’s thermal management system. Understanding its role highlights the real benefits of can am outlander 450 coolant maintenance.
At its core, coolant (or antifreeze) is a mixture of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol and water, plus a package of special additives. This isn’t just “radiator water.”
- Heat Transfer: The primary job is to absorb heat from the engine block and cylinder head and carry it to the radiator, where it’s dissipated into the air.
- Boiling Point Elevation: Water boils at 212°F (100°C). A 50/50 coolant mix raises the boiling point to over 265°F (129°C), preventing the fluid from turning to steam under high load—which would immediately cause overheating.
- Freezing Point Depression: In cold climates, the same mixture prevents the fluid from freezing, which would crack your engine block and radiator.
- Corrosion Prevention: This is the unsung hero. Additives in the coolant form a protective layer on all the internal metal surfaces (aluminum, iron, solder), preventing rust, corrosion, and electrolysis that can clog passages and destroy components.
Neglecting your coolant allows these protective additives to break down. The fluid becomes acidic, loses its ability to transfer heat effectively, and starts eating away at your engine from the inside out. A simple fluid change is cheap insurance against a four-figure engine rebuild.
Choosing the Right Coolant: What Your Outlander 450 Really Needs
Walking into an auto parts store can be overwhelming. You’ll see shelves of different colored coolants with confusing labels like OAT, HOAT, and IAT. Using the wrong one can cause serious damage.
For your Can-Am Outlander 450, the rule is simple: use the coolant specified by the manufacturer.
BRP (Bombardier Recreational Products) recommends its specific BRP XPS Premixed Antifreeze/Coolant. This is an ethylene glycol-based, phosphate-free, and silicate-free formula designed specifically for the mixed-metal environment of your Rotax engine.
Can You Use an Automotive Coolant?
While you can find automotive coolants with similar specifications, it’s a gamble. The safest bet is to stick with the BRP-branded fluid or a high-quality powersports-specific coolant that explicitly states it meets BRP’s requirements.
Look for a coolant that is an extended-life Organic Acid Technology (OAT) formula. NEVER mix different types or colors of coolant. Mixing a green conventional coolant with an orange/yellow OAT coolant can cause it to gel, clogging your radiator and cooling passages completely.
A Note on Eco-Friendly Can-Am Outlander 450 Coolant
Some riders look for more eco-friendly can am outlander 450 coolant options. These are typically propylene glycol-based and are significantly less toxic than traditional ethylene glycol. While they are a great choice for the environment, ensure the one you select is specifically formulated for high-performance aluminum engines and meets powersports specifications. Always check compatibility before making the switch.
The Essential Can-Am Outlander 450 Coolant Check: A 5-Minute Care Guide
Regular checks are the cornerstone of good maintenance. This simple can am outlander 450 coolant care guide should be part of your pre-ride ritual. Always perform this check when the engine is completely cool.
- Locate the Reservoir: On most Outlander 450 models, the coolant overflow reservoir is a semi-transparent plastic bottle located under the front cargo rack or side panel. Consult your owner’s manual for the exact location.
- Check the Level: The reservoir will have “MIN” (or “LOW”) and “MAX” (or “FULL”) lines molded into the side. The coolant level should be between these two marks when the engine is cold.
- Inspect the Fluid: Look at the coolant itself. It should be a clean, vibrant color (typically green or orange/yellow for BRP). If it looks rusty, brown, milky, or has debris floating in it, it’s well past time for a full flush.
- Check the Radiator Cap: With the engine cold, you can remove the radiator cap (not just the reservoir cap). The coolant should be right up to the top of the filler neck. The rubber seals on the cap should be pliable and free of cracks. A bad cap can’t hold pressure, lowering the boiling point and causing overheating.
If the level is slightly low in the reservoir, you can top it off with the correct premixed coolant. If it’s significantly low, you may have a leak that needs to be addressed.
How to Perform a Full Can-Am Outlander 450 Coolant Flush & Fill
Changing your coolant is a straightforward DIY job that saves you money and connects you with your machine. This complete how to can am outlander 450 coolant guide will walk you through it. Plan for about 1-2 hours.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
- New, BRP-approved premixed coolant (check your manual for capacity, usually around 2-3 quarts)
- Distilled water (for flushing)
- A drain pan (at least 1-gallon capacity)
- A funnel
- Basic socket set and wrenches
- Pliers (for hose clamps)
- Rags or paper towels
- Nitrile gloves and safety glasses
Step 1: Safety First & Preparation
Make sure your ATV is on a level surface and the engine is completely cold. Opening a hot cooling system can cause severe burns. Wear your gloves and safety glasses, as coolant is toxic.
Step 2: Draining the Old Coolant
Place your drain pan under the engine. Locate the lowest point of the cooling system, which is usually the bottom radiator hose connected to the water pump housing. Some models may have a dedicated drain bolt on the water pump cover (a small bolt with a copper washer).
Slowly loosen the drain bolt or use pliers to slide the hose clamp off the radiator hose and carefully pull the hose off the fitting. The old coolant will start to drain. To speed it up, remove the radiator cap.
Step 3: Flushing the System (Optional but Recommended)
Once drained, reconnect the hose or reinstall the drain bolt. Fill the system completely with distilled water (never tap water, which contains minerals that cause scaling). Reinstall the radiator cap.
Start the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes, or until the cooling fan kicks on. This circulates the water and picks up any remaining old coolant. Let the engine cool down completely again, then drain the distilled water just as you did before. For neglected systems, you may repeat this flush until the water drains clear.
Step 4: Refilling with New Coolant
With the system empty and the drain bolt/hose secured, it’s time to refill. Place a funnel in the radiator filler neck and slowly pour in the new premixed coolant. Pouring slowly helps prevent air pockets from forming.
Fill it until it reaches the base of the filler neck. Also, fill the overflow reservoir to the “MAX” line.
Step 5: Bleeding the Air from the System
This is the most critical step. Air trapped in the system will cause overheating. Locate the air bleed screw. It’s typically a small bolt on the top of the thermostat housing on the cylinder head.
Slightly loosen the bleed screw until you see a steady stream of coolant with no air bubbles seeping out. Once the bubbles stop, tighten the screw. Do not over-tighten it.
With the radiator cap still off, start the engine. Let it idle and watch the coolant level in the radiator. As the thermostat opens, the level may drop. Top it off as needed. You may see a few more bubbles escape. Squeezing the main radiator hoses can help push trapped air out.
Step 6: Final Checks and Clean-up
Once the engine is up to temperature (fan has cycled on and off) and the coolant level is stable, carefully reinstall the radiator cap. Let the machine cool down one last time and perform a final check of the level in the overflow reservoir, topping it off if necessary.
Clean up any spills and transfer the old coolant from your drain pan into a sealed container. Coolant is highly toxic to pets and wildlife. Take it to your local auto parts store or municipal waste facility for proper, sustainable can am outlander 450 coolant disposal.
Troubleshooting Common Problems with Can-Am Outlander 450 Coolant
Even with good maintenance, issues can arise. Here are some common problems with can am outlander 450 coolant systems and what they might mean.
- Overheating: Could be caused by low coolant, a faulty radiator cap, a stuck thermostat, a bad fan sensor, or trapped air in the system. Always start by checking the level and bleeding the system again.
- White Smoke/Sweet Smell from Exhaust: This is a classic sign of a blown head gasket, where coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber. This requires immediate professional attention.
- Milky or “Milkshake” Oil: If you check your engine oil and it looks like a creamy brown mess, coolant is mixing with your oil. This is often due to a failed water pump seal or a head gasket failure. Do not run the engine.
- Visible Leaks: Check all hose connections, the radiator for pinholes (often caused by rocks), and the water pump weep hole. A small drip from the weep hole indicates the internal seal is failing and the pump needs to be replaced or rebuilt soon.
Best Practices for a Healthy Cooling System
Following these can am outlander 450 coolant best practices will ensure your cooling system remains reliable for years to come. This is the core of any good can am outlander 450 coolant guide.
- Stick to the Schedule: BRP recommends changing the coolant every 5 years, but for machines that see heavy use, mud, or high heat, changing it every 2 years is cheap insurance.
- Keep the Radiator Clean: After a muddy ride, gently hose out your radiator fins from the back side. Caked-on mud acts like an insulator and drastically reduces cooling efficiency.
- Inspect Hoses Regularly: Squeeze your radiator hoses (when cold). They should feel firm but pliable. If they feel crunchy, rock-hard, or mushy, it’s time to replace them before they fail on the trail.
- Use Premixed Coolant: Unless you are a chemist, avoid buying concentrate and mixing it yourself. Using premixed coolant guarantees a perfect 50/50 ratio with pure, distilled water.
Frequently Asked Questions About Can-Am Outlander 450 Coolant
What type of coolant does a Can-Am Outlander 450 use?
It uses a long-life, ethylene glycol-based OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant that is both phosphate-free and silicate-free. The safest choice is the official BRP XPS Premixed Antifreeze/Coolant or a powersports-specific coolant that meets the same specifications.
How often should I change the coolant in my Outlander 450?
The official service interval is typically every 5 years. However, for machines used in harsh conditions (deep mud, high heat, extreme dust), we at FatBoysOffroad recommend a flush and fill every 2 years or 100 hours of operation to maintain peak performance and prevent corrosion.
Can I just top off the coolant with water?
In a trail-side emergency to get you home, adding a small amount of distilled or bottled water is acceptable. However, this dilutes the mixture, reducing its boiling and freezing protection. You should drain and refill the system with the proper 50/50 mix as soon as possible. Never use tap water.
My Outlander is overheating, but the coolant level is fine. What’s wrong?
If the level is correct, the issue could be a few things. The most common culprits are a radiator clogged with mud, a faulty cooling fan or fan switch, a thermostat that is stuck closed, or a bad radiator cap that can no longer hold pressure.
Your Outlander’s cooling system is a closed loop of trust between you and your machine. By giving it the right fluid and the right attention, you’re ensuring it will be ready to perform when you need it most. Now get out there, ride hard, and stay cool!
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