You see that mud hole or creek crossing up ahead. It looks deep. You slow down, your heart starts to pound a little faster, and you ask yourself the classic question: “Can I make it?” That moment of hesitation is something every Outlander 450 rider knows well, and the fear of hydrolocking your engine—sucking water into the intake and causing catastrophic failure—is very real.
We agree, that feeling stinks. It limits your adventures and keeps you on the “safe” path. But what if you could eliminate that fear entirely?
We promise this guide will give you the confidence and knowledge to conquer those water crossings. We’re going to walk you through everything you need to know about a can am outlander 450 snorkel kit, from choosing the right one to a detailed installation process and long-term care.
Get ready to learn the benefits of running a snorkel, how to perform a clean and watertight installation, how to troubleshoot common issues, and the best practices for keeping your rig protected for years to come. Let’s get that Outlander ready to dive in!
Why Your Outlander 450 Needs a Snorkel Kit (The Real Benefits)
You might think a snorkel is just for the hardcore mudders who want to sink their ATV up to the handlebars. While it’s great for that, the practical benefits extend to almost every type of rider. A snorkel is one of the best insurance policies you can buy for your machine’s powertrain.
Engine and CVT Protection is #1
The primary job of a snorkel kit is to raise the air intake for your engine and your Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT). The stock air intakes on an Outlander 450 are located relatively low, making them vulnerable in even moderately deep water.
Sucking water into your engine is called hydrolocking. Since water doesn’t compress like an air-fuel mixture, it can bend rods, crack pistons, and destroy your engine in a split second. A snorkel moves that intake point up high, often near the handlebars, keeping it well above the water line.
Similarly, your CVT needs air for cooling and proper belt function. Getting water in your belt housing can cause the belt to slip, leaving you stranded. Worse, muddy water can destroy the clutches. A snorkel kit seals and relocates these vents, keeping your transmission dry and functional.
Cleaner Air, Happier Engine
It’s not just about water. Think about the conditions you ride in—dusty trails, dry fields, and kicking up dirt behind your buddies. The stock air intake location is prime for sucking in all that dust and debris kicked up by your own front tires.
By raising the intake, a snorkel pulls in cleaner, less-turbulent air from above the fray. This means your air filter stays cleaner for longer, which improves performance and extends the life of your engine’s internal components. It’s one of the lesser-known benefits of a can am outlander 450 snorkel kit that pays dividends on every single ride.
Choosing the Right Can Am Outlander 450 Snorkel Kit
Not all snorkel kits are created equal. When you start shopping, you’ll see everything from high-end, custom-molded kits to basic PVC pipe options. Here’s how to choose the right one for your needs and budget.
Custom-Molded vs. DIY-Style Kits
Custom-Molded Kits: These are kits from brands like SYA (Snorkel Your ATV) or High Lifter. They are specifically designed for the Outlander 450. The risers are often made from a sleek, durable black plastic that looks like a factory part.
- Pros: Excellent fit and finish, professional look, often come with detailed instructions and all necessary hardware.
- Cons: More expensive.
PVC / ABS Kits: Some kits (and many homemade setups) use standard PVC or ABS plumbing pipe. They are incredibly functional but lack the polished look of a molded kit.
- Pros: More affordable, highly durable, and easy to repair if a piece cracks on the trail.
- Cons: Can look bulky or “homemade,” may require more fine-tuning during installation.
What to Look For in a Quality Kit
Regardless of the style, a good kit should include a few key things. This is where our can am outlander 450 snorkel kit guide can save you a headache.
- Complete Hardware: It should include all necessary rubber couplers, vent lines, hose clamps, and brackets. You shouldn’t have to make extra trips to the hardware store.
- Clear Instructions: Look for kits with detailed, model-specific instructions, preferably with pictures. Vague instructions can turn a weekend project into a week-long nightmare.
- Durable Materials: The risers should be made of thick, impact-resistant material. The flexible tubing should be heavy-duty and resist kinking.
- Proper Sealing: The kit must be designed to create a 100% waterproof seal from the riser tip all the way to the airbox and CVT.
The Complete How-To: Can Am Outlander 450 Snorkel Kit Installation
Alright, let’s get our hands dirty. This is the core of our guide on how to can am outlander 450 snorkel kit installation. Take your time, read each step carefully, and remember the golden rule: measure twice, cut once. This process can take a few hours, so grab a drink and put on some tunes.
H3: Tools and Prep Work: Getting Ready for the Job
Before you start, gather your tools. Having everything ready will make the process much smoother.
- A good socket set and wrenches (metric)
- Torx bit set
- Drill and various drill bits
- Hole saw (the size will be specified in your kit’s instructions)
- Silicone sealant (RTV or similar waterproof sealant)
- A utility knife or deburring tool
- Marker or grease pencil
- Shop towels and cleaner
Start by giving your ATV a thorough wash, especially around the plastics, fenders, and airbox area. Working on a clean machine is safer and easier.
H3: Step 1: Disassembly and Access
First, you need to get access to the airbox and CVT ports. This involves removing some plastic body panels.
- Remove the Seat: This usually just unlatches.
- Remove the Side Panels: You’ll need to remove the panels around the fuel tank and engine to access the airbox and CVT connections.
- Remove the Front Rack and Fender Plastics: Depending on your specific kit’s routing, you will need to remove the front rack and the plastic pod that houses the gauge cluster and key switch. This is where you’ll be cutting.
H3: Step 2: Marking and Cutting the Plastics
This is the most intimidating step. Take a deep breath. Using the templates or measurements from your kit’s instructions, carefully mark the locations for your snorkel risers on the front plastic pod.
Use a marker to trace the circles. Double-check your measurements from multiple reference points. Once you’re 100% confident, use the appropriate size hole saw to slowly and carefully drill the holes. Use a sharp utility knife or a deburring tool to clean up the edges for a perfect fit.
H3: Step 3: Assembling and Sealing the Risers
Now, assemble the riser pipes. Most kits have three: Engine Air Intake, CVT Air Intake, and CVT Air Exhaust.
Test fit the risers through the holes you just cut. Once you’re happy with the fit, it’s time to seal. Apply a generous bead of silicone sealant to the base of the riser where it will meet the plastic. Push it through and secure it from underneath using the hardware provided. This creates a waterproof seal against the plastic bodywork.
H3: Step 4: Connecting to the Airbox and Vents
This is the most critical part for waterproofing. You’ll be running flexible tubing from the bottom of your new risers to the stock intake ports.
- Engine Intake: Connect the hose from your engine intake riser directly to the airbox inlet. Make sure to thoroughly clean the airbox port first. Use silicone on the connection point before tightening the hose clamp. A leak here is a drowned engine.
- CVT Intake/Exhaust: Route the other two hoses to the CVT intake and exhaust ports. Just like the airbox, clean the ports, apply sealant, and tighten the clamps securely.
- Vent Lines: Your kit should also include smaller hoses to extend the vent lines for your differential, fuel tank, and other components. Route these up high along your new snorkel risers.
H3: Step 5: Final Assembly and Leak Testing
Once all connections are made and the sealant has had some time to cure (check the sealant’s instructions), you can start reassembling your Outlander. Put all the plastics, racks, and the seat back on.
Before you hit the water, you must test for leaks. With the engine running, place your hand over the engine intake snorkel. The engine should struggle and die from lack of air. If it keeps running, you have a leak somewhere between the riser and the engine that you need to find and fix immediately.
Common Problems with Can Am Outlander 450 Snorkel Kits (and How to Fix Them)
Even with a careful installation, issues can arise. Here are a few common problems with can am outlander 450 snorkel kit setups.
- Engine Bogs or Runs Poorly: This often happens from changing the airflow dynamics. The longer intake path can sometimes require an EFI tuner or carburetor re-jetting to compensate. However, first check for obstructions or kinked hoses.
- Water in the Airbox: If you find water in your airbox after a ride, you have a leak. Re-check every connection point, from the airbox lid seal to every single clamp and silicone joint. The leak test mentioned above is your best friend here.
- Cracked Riser or Tubing: A low-hanging branch on the trail can easily crack a riser. Inspect your snorkel system before and after every ride. Small cracks in PVC can often be repaired with PVC cement, but cracked flexible tubing should be replaced.
Can Am Outlander 450 Snorkel Kit Care Guide: Best Practices for Longevity
Your snorkel kit is installed, but the job isn’t over. Proper maintenance is key to ensuring it protects your machine for years. Follow this simple can am outlander 450 snorkel kit care guide.
- Post-Ride Inspection: After every ride, especially ones with deep water or tight trails, give your snorkel a quick once-over. Check for cracks, loose clamps, or torn couplers.
- Keep it Clean: Make sure the snorkel inlets are free of mud, leaves, or other debris that could restrict airflow.
- Annual Seal Check: At least once a year, it’s a good idea to partially disassemble the connections at the airbox and CVT to inspect the silicone sealant and re-apply if it looks cracked or worn.
The Eco-Friendly Angle: Sustainable Can Am Outlander 450 Snorkel Kit Use
Being a responsible off-roader is part of the fun. While a snorkel lets you go deeper, it also enables more responsible riding. Thinking about a sustainable can am outlander 450 snorkel kit approach means considering your impact.
A snorkeled ATV is less likely to get stuck in a water crossing. This means less spinning tires, which tears up the creek bed and disturbs the local ecosystem. By crossing smoothly and efficiently, you leave a much smaller footprint.
Furthermore, an eco-friendly can am outlander 450 snorkel kit mindset involves the maintenance we discussed. Regularly checking for leaks isn’t just about keeping water out; it’s about ensuring a perfect seal that prevents any potential fluid drips (like crankcase vapors) from escaping into the environment.
Frequently Asked Questions About Your Can Am Outlander 450 Snorkel Kit
Will installing a snorkel kit void my Can-Am warranty?
In most cases, yes. Modifying the intake system of your ATV is a significant alteration that manufacturers will likely use to deny a warranty claim on any engine or drivetrain-related failure. It’s a risk you take for the added capability.
Do I need to re-jet my carb or get an EFI tune after installing a snorkel?
Sometimes. The longer intake tract changes the air-fuel ratio. On a carbureted model, you may need to adjust the jets. On an EFI model like the Outlander 450, the computer can often compensate, but for optimal performance, an EFI fuel controller is recommended.
How deep can I actually go with a snorkel kit?
The limit becomes your electronics. While the engine can breathe, vital electrical components like your ECU, relays, and gauge cluster are not fully waterproof. You can go as deep as your snorkel risers, but it’s wise to waterproof all your electrical connections with dielectric grease if you plan on going that deep often.
Is it cheaper to build my own snorkel kit from PVC?
Yes, you can save money by building a DIY snorkel from hardware store parts. However, you’ll spend more time on design, fabrication, and sourcing the right flexible couplers. For a first-timer, a pre-made kit is often worth the extra cost for the convenience and proven design.
Installing a snorkel kit on your Outlander 450 is one of the most empowering modifications you can make. It transforms your machine from a trail cruiser into a true all-terrain vehicle, ready to tackle whatever you throw at it. The key takeaways are to choose a quality kit, take your time with a meticulous, leak-proof installation, and perform regular inspections.
Now you have the knowledge and the step-by-step plan. So go ahead, get that kit, get in the garage, and get ready to conquer that next water crossing with total confidence. Happy riding, and stay dry!
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