You’re staring at that deep, tempting mud hole or that creek crossing that separates you from the best part of the trail. You know your Outlander 850 has the power, but a voice in the back of your head asks, “Is it too deep?” Drowning your engine is a fast, expensive way to end a great day of riding. We’ve all been there, and we agree it’s a terrible feeling.
I promise you, this guide is your ticket to eliminating that hesitation for good. We’re going to give you the confidence to tackle those deep water and mud crossings without fear. This is more than just a product review; it’s a complete roadmap from a seasoned tech to you, the capable DIYer.
In this comprehensive can am outlander 850 snorkel kit guide, we’ll walk you through the real benefits, how to choose the perfect kit for your machine, a detailed step-by-step installation process, and the essential care tips to keep your ATV breathing clean for years to come.
Why a Can Am Outlander 850 Snorkel Kit is Your Ticket to True Off-Road Freedom
First things first, let’s clear the air—literally. A snorkel kit isn’t just for looks, though a well-installed set of risers looks undeniably aggressive. Its primary job is to raise the air intake points for your engine and CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) to a much higher, safer location.
Your stock Can Am Outlander 850 has air intakes located under the seat and plastics. While fine for dusty trails and shallow puddles, they are dangerously low for serious mud and water. Ingesting water into your engine (called hydrolocking) can cause catastrophic, wallet-crushing damage. The benefits of a can am outlander 850 snorkel kit are all about prevention and performance.
The Core Benefits You’ll Actually Feel
- Engine Protection: This is the big one. By moving the engine’s air intake up near the handlebars, you drastically reduce the risk of sucking in water or mud, which can bend rods and destroy your motor.
- CVT & Drivetrain Longevity: Your CVT belt system needs clean, dry air to function correctly. The snorkel kit relocates the CVT intake and exhaust, preventing water from getting in, which can cause belt slippage and premature wear.
- Cooler, Cleaner Air: Raising the intake point means your engine is breathing in air that is further away from the dust, heat, and debris kicked up by your tires. This can lead to slightly better performance and a cleaner air filter.
- Confidence to Conquer: Knowing your machine is protected allows you to tackle more challenging terrain with confidence. No more turning back at that “iffy” water crossing.
Choosing the Right Snorkel Kit for Your Outlander 850: What to Look For
Not all snorkel kits are created equal. When you’re shopping, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by different brands and styles. Here’s what you, the smart rider, should be looking for.
Material and Construction
The risers and tubing are the heart of the system. Look for kits that use heavy-duty, thick-walled ABS or PVC plastic. These materials are strong enough to withstand impacts from branches and trail debris. Avoid flimsy, thin plastic that can crack easily under stress.
Pay close attention to the rubber couplers and clamps provided. High-quality, silicone-lined couplers and stainless steel T-bolt clamps provide a much more secure and waterproof seal than standard worm-gear clamps.
Riser Style and Height
Snorkel kits for the Outlander 850 typically come in two main styles:
- Warrior Risers: These are individual, angled risers that can be positioned for a custom, aggressive look. They offer flexibility in placement but require careful alignment.
- Integrated Risers: Some kits feature a single, molded riser plate that keeps all the snorkel tubes grouped together neatly. This style is often easier to install and provides a very clean, factory-like appearance.
The height should be sufficient to clear the handlebars and your sightline but not so tall that it becomes a snag hazard on low-hanging branches. Most kits are designed with this balance in mind.
How to Can Am Outlander 850 Snorkel Kit: A Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Alright, let’s get our hands dirty. This is a very doable weekend project for a careful DIYer. Take your time, read the instructions that came with your specific kit, and don’t rush. A leaky seal defeats the whole purpose.
Pro-Tip: Before you start, lay out all the parts from your kit and compare them to the parts list in the instructions. Nothing is worse than getting halfway through a job and realizing a crucial piece is missing.
Step 1: Gather Your Tools & Prepare Your Workspace
Having the right tools makes all the difference. You’ll likely need:
- A good socket set (metric)
- Torx bit set
- Plastic trim removal tools (a must-have to avoid scratching plastics!)
- Drill with a hole saw bit (size specified in your kit’s instructions)
- Silicone sealant (RTV – Room Temperature Vulcanizing)
- Heat gun or hairdryer
- Sharp utility knife or PVC cutter
- Permanent marker
Step 2: Disassembly – Accessing the Airbox and CVT
This is where you’ll spend a good chunk of your time. You need to remove the plastics to get to the air intake points.
- Remove the seat, front rack, and any front bumpers or accessories.
- Carefully remove the front and side plastic body panels. Use your trim removal tools to gently pop the plastic rivets and push-pins. Keep track of all your hardware in a magnetic tray!
- Once the plastics are off, you will have clear access to the factory airbox (usually on the left side) and the CVT intake/exhaust ports (usually on the right side).
Step 3: Cutting and Fitting the Risers
This is the point of no return, so measure twice and cut once! Your kit’s instructions will have a template or specific measurements for where to drill the holes in your plastics for the snorkel risers.
Place the plastic panels back on the machine temporarily to mark your drilling locations. This ensures everything lines up perfectly. Use the specified hole saw to drill clean, precise holes. A piece of painter’s tape over the drill spot can help prevent the bit from walking and chipping the plastic.
Step 4: Connecting and Sealing Everything
This is the most critical part of the how to can am outlander 850 snorkel kit process. A perfect seal is non-negotiable.
- Follow your kit’s instructions to connect the new snorkel tubing to the factory airbox inlet and the CVT inlet and outlet ports.
- Use a heat gun on a low setting to gently warm the rubber couplers. This makes them more pliable and easier to slide onto the tubing and factory ports.
- This is key: Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant to the inside of each connection point before sliding the coupler on. This creates a bulletproof, waterproof seal.
- Secure each connection with the provided clamps. Tighten them until they are snug, but do not overtighten and crack the plastic or damage the coupler.
- Route the tubing up towards the holes you drilled, ensuring they are not kinked or rubbing against any sharp edges on the frame.
Step 5: Final Assembly and Testing
Once all connections are made and sealed, it’s time to put it all back together. Feed the risers through the holes in your plastics as you reinstall them. Secure the risers using the hardware provided in the kit.
Let the silicone cure for the recommended time (usually 24 hours). Before you hit the deep stuff, you can do a simple leak test. With the engine off, temporarily block the end of the engine air intake snorkel with your hand or some plastic wrap. Try to blow into a vent line for the airbox. If you can build any pressure, you’re likely sealed up tight. If air escapes easily, you have a leak to find.
Beyond the Install: Can Am Outlander 850 Snorkel Kit Best Practices & Care Guide
Your work isn’t done after the install. Proper maintenance is crucial for reliability.
- Regular Inspections: Before every ride, give your snorkel risers and tubing a quick visual inspection. Check for cracks, loose clamps, or any signs of damage from trail debris.
- Clean Your Pre-Filters: Many kits come with pre-filters on the riser tips. Clean these regularly, especially after dusty or muddy rides, to ensure maximum airflow.
- Check Your Seals: A few times a season, double-check the tightness of your clamps. Vibration can cause them to loosen slightly over time.
- Dielectric Grease: While you have the plastics off, it’s a great time to apply dielectric grease to all major electrical connections to further waterproof your ride.
Common Problems with Can Am Outlander 850 Snorkel Kit Setups (And How to Fix Them)
Even with a perfect installation, issues can sometimes arise. Here are some common problems with can am outlander 850 snorkel kit setups and how to handle them.
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Problem: Engine is sputtering or running rough after deep water.
Solution: This could be a small leak. Carefully re-check every single connection point. A tiny gap is all it takes for water to get sucked in. Also, check your air filter; if it’s wet, you’ve found your problem. Dry or replace it and find the leak before your next water crossing.
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Problem: Belt is slipping after a mud run.
Solution: This indicates water or mud got into your CVT housing. It means there’s a leak in either your CVT intake or exhaust snorkel tubing. You’ll need to pull the CVT cover, clean everything thoroughly, inspect the belt, and find and re-seal the leak.
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Problem: A riser cracked from hitting a branch.
Solution: Don’t just tape it! A cracked riser is a guaranteed leak. You’ll need to replace the damaged section of pipe. Most hardware stores carry ABS pipe that you can use to fabricate a repair.
Snorkels and Sustainability: The Eco-Friendly Approach to Mudding
Being a responsible off-roader means protecting the trails we love to ride. A snorkel kit can actually play a role in this. A properly sealed machine is less likely to leak engine oil, coolant, or differential fluid into sensitive waterways.
Adopting a sustainable can am outlander 850 snorkel kit mindset means thinking about your impact. After a deep ride, wash your machine at a designated wash station or on a gravel/grass area away from streams to prevent mud and any potential fluid residue from entering the ecosystem. This is a core part of being an eco-friendly can am outlander 850 snorkel kit user and a respected member of the off-road community.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Can Am Outlander 850 Snorkel Kit
Do I need to re-tune my Can Am Outlander after installing a snorkel kit?
For most snorkel kits, a tune is not strictly necessary. The change in intake length is usually not drastic enough to significantly alter the air-fuel ratio. However, if you notice the machine running lean (e.g., popping on deceleration) or rich, a fuel programmer can help optimize performance.
Will a snorkel kit void my Can Am warranty?
This is a gray area. Modifying your ATV’s intake system can give a dealer grounds to deny a warranty claim on the engine or drivetrain if they can prove the modification caused the failure. It’s best to talk to your local dealer to understand their specific policy.
Can I still use my radiator relocation kit with a snorkel kit?
Absolutely! In fact, they are a perfect match. Most snorkel kits are designed to work seamlessly with popular radiator relocation kits, as serious mudders often install both mods to create a nearly unstoppable machine.
How deep can I go with a snorkel kit installed?
With a properly installed and sealed snorkel kit, your depth limit is essentially the top of your snorkel risers. However, remember that other components like electronics and vent lines for your differentials and transmission are still vulnerable. Always waterproof these other areas and proceed with caution.
Equipping your Outlander 850 with a snorkel kit is one of the most functional and confidence-inspiring mods you can make. It transforms your machine from a trail-capable ATV to a true all-terrain conqueror. Take your time with the installation, respect the seals, and perform regular checks.
Now get out there, tackle that water crossing you used to avoid, and explore further than ever before. Stay safe, ride smart, and have a blast!
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