Ever found yourself deep on a trail, needing a jump start, only to remember your Can-Am Outlander’s battery is buried behind layers of plastic and brackets? Or maybe you’ve been eyeing a bigger winch, but the stock battery is sitting exactly where you need to mount the contactor. It’s a common frustration that can turn a quick fix into a full-blown wrenching session.
We’ve all been there. That stock battery location is a masterpiece of factory packaging, but it’s a real pain for real-world use, especially once you start adding accessories.
I promise you this: by the end of this guide, you will understand not just how to perform a can am outlander battery relocation, but why it’s one of the most practical and rewarding upgrades you can do. We’ll walk you through the benefits, the exact steps, the common pitfalls to avoid, and the best practices to ensure a safe, reliable setup that will make your off-road life a whole lot easier.
Why Even Consider a Can-Am Outlander Battery Relocation?
Before you start pulling wires, it’s worth understanding the powerful advantages this modification offers. It’s about more than just convenience; it’s about improving your machine’s performance, durability, and versatility. This is the core of the benefits of can am outlander battery relocation.
Improved Weight Distribution and Handling
Your Outlander’s battery is a dense, heavy little box. The stock location, often high and forward, isn’t always ideal for the center of gravity. Moving it to a lower, more centralized spot can subtly but noticeably improve handling on off-camber trails and during aggressive cornering.
It’s all about centralizing mass. By shifting that weight, you make the ATV feel more planted and predictable, which is a huge confidence booster when the terrain gets tricky.
Making Room for Must-Have Accessories
This is the big one for many riders. The space freed up by moving the battery is prime real estate. It’s the perfect spot for mounting a winch contactor, an air compressor, or even a snorkel kit’s riser without cluttering up your racks.
Suddenly, you have a clean, protected, and accessible area to install the gear that turns your Outlander from a stock machine into a purpose-built trail weapon.
Simplified Maintenance and Jumps
Let’s be honest: accessing the stock battery terminals is a chore. A well-planned relocation puts your battery terminals within easy reach. This means no more removing the front rack and plastics just to connect a battery tender, check for corrosion, or get a jump start from a buddy.
A simple flip of the seat or opening of a storage box, and you’re there. This is a quality-of-life upgrade you’ll appreciate every single time you need to access it.
Protection from the Elements
The stock location can expose the battery to a direct assault from mud, water, and debris kicked up by the front tires. Relocating the battery to a higher and drier location, like under the seat or inside a sealed rear box, drastically increases its lifespan and reliability.
It keeps your terminals clean from mud that can cause shorts or corrosion and protects the battery case from impacts with rocks or trail debris.
Planning Your Relocation: Tools, Parts, and Best Practices
Success is all in the preparation. Rushing this job with the wrong parts is a recipe for disaster. Taking the time to gather the right gear and think through the process is one of the most important can am outlander battery relocation tips we can offer.
Essential Tools for the Job
You don’t need a full professional shop, but having the right tools makes the job cleaner and safer. Here’s your checklist:
- Socket and Wrench Set: For removing plastics, battery terminals, and mounting hardware.
- Heavy-Duty Wire Cutters/Cable Cutters: For getting a clean cut on thick battery cables.
- Wire Strippers: Sized appropriately for your new battery cable.
- Hydraulic or Hammer-Style Lug Crimper: Do not try to use pliers. A solid, proper crimp is essential for a low-resistance connection.
- Heat Gun: For shrinking heat-shrink tubing to create a weatherproof seal.
- Multimeter: To check for continuity and confirm voltage after the installation.
Choosing the Right Location
Where you move the battery is the biggest decision you’ll make. Consider these popular options:
- Under the Seat: This is a fantastic choice. It’s central, high, and relatively dry. It keeps the weight low and protected. The only downside is it might use up some existing storage space.
- Rear Storage Box: If you have a larger rear storage box, dedicating a section to the battery can work well. Ensure the box is securely mounted and that the battery itself is in a sealed battery box to contain any potential leaks and vent fumes away from your gear.
No matter where you choose, ensure the battery is in a sturdy, securely mounted battery box. A loose battery is a massive safety hazard.
Selecting the Right Cables and Connectors
This is not the place to save money. Voltage drop over a long cable run is a real issue. Using undersized wire will lead to slow cranking and starting problems.
- Cable Gauge: Use at least 4-gauge, and preferably 2-gauge, pure Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC) welding cable. Do not use cheap, copper-clad aluminum (CCA) wire.
- Lugs: Use high-quality, heavy-wall copper lugs that match your cable gauge.
- Protection: Use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing over every lug connection to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion. Run the entire length of your cables inside a protective wire loom.
A Note on Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Relocation
A sustainable can am outlander battery relocation focuses on longevity and responsibility. By using top-quality cables and connectors, you’re creating a system that won’t need to be replaced, reducing waste. When you remove old components, be sure to recycle your old battery at a designated facility and dispose of scrap wire properly. This is a core part of the eco-friendly can am outlander battery relocation mindset.
How to Can-Am Outlander Battery Relocation: A Step-by-Step Guide
Alright, let’s get to the fun part. This can am outlander battery relocation guide will walk you through the process. Take your time, double-check your work, and always prioritize safety.
Safety First: Disconnect the Old Battery
Before you touch anything else, disconnect the battery. Always remove the negative (black) terminal first, then the positive (red) terminal. This prevents accidental short circuits if your wrench touches the frame.
Remove the Stock Battery and Tray
This will likely involve removing some front plastics and the front rack. Carefully unbolt the battery hold-down and the tray itself. Keep track of your hardware!
Prepare Your New Location
Install your new battery box or tray in your chosen location. Drill mounting holes and use strong bolts with locking nuts or washers. It needs to be rock solid. It cannot wobble or shift at all.
Running the New Cables
This is the most critical step. Route your new positive and negative cables from the new battery location to their connection points. Follow these rules:
- Avoid sharp metal edges at all costs. Use rubber grommets wherever you pass through a firewall or plastic.
- Keep cables far away from the hot exhaust pipe and engine components.
- Secure the cables along the frame with high-quality zip ties every 6-8 inches. There should be no sagging.
- Ensure the cables won’t be pinched or stretched by moving suspension or steering components.
Making Secure Connections
Measure your cables carefully and cut them to length. Strip the ends, slide on your heat shrink tubing, and use your crimper to create a permanent, solid connection on the lugs. Heat the tubing until it shrinks and you see the adhesive ooze out, creating a perfect seal. Connect the positive cable to the starter solenoid and the negative cable to a solid, clean point on the frame or engine block.
Installing the New Battery and Final Connections
Secure your new battery in its box. Apply a thin layer of dielectric grease to the terminals to prevent corrosion. Now, connect your cables to the new battery: positive (red) first, then negative (black) last.
Testing and Tidying Up
Before starting, use your multimeter to check for 12V+ at the battery. Turn the key and ensure all your lights and accessories work. If all is well, fire it up! Let it run for a bit, then double-check that your cables are not getting warm, which would indicate a poor connection.
Common Problems with Can-Am Outlander Battery Relocation (And How to Avoid Them)
Even with a good plan, issues can arise. Knowing the common problems with can am outlander battery relocation helps you prevent them from happening in the first place.
Voltage Drop and Starting Issues
The Symptom: The engine cranks slowly or won’t start, even with a fully charged battery.
The Cause: This is almost always caused by using undersized battery cables or having a poor connection (bad crimp or weak ground). The longer the cable, the more resistance, and the bigger the cable needs to be. Stick to 2 or 4-gauge OFC wire!
Cable Chafing and Short Circuits
The Symptom: Blown fuses, melted wires, or even a fire.
The Cause: Improper cable routing. If a cable rubs against a sharp metal edge on the frame, it will eventually wear through the insulation and short out. This is why using a protective loom and securing the cables properly is not optional—it’s a critical safety step.
A Loose Battery is a Dangerous Battery
The Symptom: A rattling noise, or worse, a battery that has come loose on the trail.
The Cause: An inadequately secured battery box. An 18-pound battery becoming a projectile during a rollover or on a rough trail is extremely dangerous. Use robust hardware and check its tightness regularly.
Post-Relocation: The Can-Am Outlander Battery Relocation Care Guide
Your job isn’t done after the engine starts. A proper can am outlander battery relocation care guide ensures your hard work lasts.
Regular Inspection Schedule
After your first couple of rides, give everything a once-over. Check that the battery box is still tight. Inspect the entire length of your cables for any signs of rubbing or chafing. Make this part of your regular pre-ride check.
Keeping Connections Clean and Tight
Every few months, or after a particularly wet or muddy ride, check your battery terminals and ground connection. Make sure they are tight and free of corrosion. A quick clean with a wire brush and a fresh dab of dielectric grease goes a long way.
Frequently Asked Questions About Can-Am Outlander Battery Relocation
What’s the best wire gauge for a battery relocation?
For most ATVs like the Outlander, 4-gauge OFC (Oxygen-Free Copper) wire is the absolute minimum. However, we strongly recommend using 2-gauge OFC wire, especially if you’re running a powerful winch or other high-draw accessories. The thicker wire has less voltage drop, ensuring your starter gets all the power it needs.
Can I use a regular car battery after relocating?
No, you should stick with a high-quality sealed AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) or Gel battery designed for powersports. These batteries are built to withstand the intense vibration of off-roading and can be mounted in various orientations without leaking acid, unlike a standard flooded car battery.
Do I need to upgrade my alternator or charging system?
In 99% of cases, no. A battery relocation doesn’t change the amount of power your accessories draw. Your stock stator is designed to charge the battery and run the machine. You’d only need to consider a stator upgrade if you add a massive stereo system, light bars, and other power-hungry accessories that exceed the stock output.
Is a battery relocation kit worth it?
Kits can be a convenient starting point as they often include a battery box and pre-cut cables. However, be very critical of the cable quality. Many kits use cheaper, undersized CCA (Copper-Clad Aluminum) wire. Often, buying a high-quality battery box and sourcing your own 2-gauge OFC welding cable and copper lugs will result in a much more reliable and safer setup.
Relocating the battery on your Can-Am Outlander is more than just a custom mod; it’s a fundamental improvement to the machine’s usability and serviceability. By taking your time, using high-quality materials, and following safe practices, you can knock out this project in an afternoon and reap the benefits for years to come.
Now you have the knowledge and the plan. Grab your tools, map out your cable runs, and get ready to enjoy a more capable and convenient ride. Stay safe, and we’ll see you on the trails!
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