You’ve just spent hours flushing your cooling system or replacing a hose on your Can-Am Outlander. You fire it up, proud of your work, only to see the temp gauge climbing into the red zone on a short ride. What gives?
You’re staring at the classic symptom of a trapped air bubble, a stubborn pocket of air that’s preventing coolant from circulating properly. It’s a frustrating problem that can quickly sideline your machine and even lead to catastrophic engine damage.
We promise this comprehensive guide will show you exactly how to conquer that air bubble using one of the most important—and often overlooked—components in your cooling system. We’ll walk you through everything you need to know about the can am outlander coolant bleed screw.
You’ll learn where to find it, how to use it correctly, the common mistakes to avoid, and the pro tips that will make this critical maintenance task a breeze. Let’s get your Outlander running cool and reliable for your next adventure.
What is the Can-Am Outlander Coolant Bleed Screw and Why Does it Matter?
Think of your Outlander’s cooling system as its circulatory system. The coolant is the lifeblood, and the radiator, water pump, and hoses are the arteries. For this system to work, it must be completely full of liquid.
When air gets trapped inside, it creates an “embolism”—a stubborn bubble that blocks the flow. This air pocket can get stuck in a high point, like the thermostat housing or cylinder head, preventing hot coolant from reaching the radiator to be cooled.
The can am outlander coolant bleed screw is a small, strategically placed valve designed to be a release point for that trapped air. By opening it at the right time, you allow the air to escape, letting coolant fill the entire system. Ignoring this simple step is the number one reason for overheating issues after a coolant service.
The Critical Benefits of a Proper Coolant Bleed
Using the bleed screw correctly isn’t just a suggestion; it’s a fundamental part of a healthy cooling system. Here are the main benefits of can am outlander coolant bleed screw usage:
- Prevents Overheating: This is the big one. Removing all air ensures maximum cooling efficiency and protects your engine from heat damage, which can lead to warped heads or seized pistons.
- Ensures Accurate Temperature Readings: An air pocket near the temperature sensor can give you false readings, making you think the engine is cooler than it actually is until it’s too late.
- Improves Heater Performance: On models with a cab heater, air in the system will prevent hot coolant from reaching the heater core, leaving you in the cold.
- Extends Water Pump Life: A water pump trying to move air and coolant (a condition called cavitation) can wear out prematurely. A properly bled system is filled with lubricating coolant, protecting the pump seals.
Locating the Bleed Screw on Your Outlander Model
Can-Am has used a few different engine configurations over the years, so the bleed screw location isn’t always in the same spot. However, physics dictates it will always be at or near a high point in the cooling system where air naturally gathers.
Before you start, grab a flashlight and look for a small bolt or screw, often made of brass or steel with a hex head or a slot for a screwdriver. It might even be a plastic thumb screw on some models.
Here are the most common locations to check:
- On the Thermostat Housing: This is a very common location. Follow the upper radiator hose back to where it connects to the engine. The bleed screw is often on top of that housing.
- On the Cylinder Head: Look at the very top of the engine’s cylinder head(s). You may find a small bleeder screw located there.
- On a High Point of a Coolant Hose: Some systems incorporate the bleeder directly into a hose assembly.
Pro Tip: Your owner’s or service manual is your best friend. If you’re having trouble, a quick look at the cooling system diagram will pinpoint the exact location for your specific year and model, taking all the guesswork out of it.
The Essential Can-Am Outlander Coolant Bleed Screw Guide: A Step-by-Step Process
Ready to get this done right? This step-by-step can am outlander coolant bleed screw guide will walk you through the entire process. Follow these instructions carefully for a perfect, air-free system.
H3: Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
Gather everything before you start to make the job smooth and efficient. You don’t want to be running to the store with a half-finished job.
- Correct Coolant: Use the BRP-recommended premixed coolant for your Outlander. Don’t mix coolant types!
- Spill-Free Funnel Kit: This is our number one recommended tool. It fits into the radiator neck, allowing you to overfill the system and easily see air bubbles escaping.
- Screwdriver or Wrench: A small flathead screwdriver or a socket/wrench (commonly 8mm or 10mm) to fit your bleed screw.
- Drain Pan: To catch any spilled coolant.
- Clean Rags: For cleanup.
- Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves. Coolant is toxic.
H3: Safety First: Pre-Bleed Checklist
Never skip these safety steps. Hot, pressurized coolant can cause severe burns.
- Work on a COLD ENGINE. We can’t stress this enough. Let the ATV sit for several hours or overnight until it is completely cool to the touch.
- Park on Level Ground. This ensures the coolant level in the radiator is accurate and helps the system bleed properly. We’ll discuss using an incline as a pro-tip later.
- Clean the Area. Wipe away any dirt or debris from around the radiator cap and the bleed screw to prevent it from falling into your cooling system.
H3: The Bleeding Procedure
Here is how to can am outlander coolant bleed screw correctly. Take your time and don’t rush the process.
- Remove the Radiator Cap: With the engine cold, press down and turn the radiator cap to remove it.
- Install Your Funnel: Place the spill-free funnel into the radiator opening and fill it about halfway with fresh coolant. This creates a reservoir that will automatically fill any voids as air escapes.
- Locate the Bleed Screw: Find the bleed screw using the guidance from the previous section.
- Loosen the Bleeder: Place a rag underneath the bleed screw to catch any drips. Slowly loosen the screw one to two turns. You should hear a hiss as trapped air begins to escape.
- Watch for a Solid Stream: Keep the screw loose until you see a steady, bubble-free stream of coolant coming out. This is the sign that the air from that part of the system is gone.
- Tighten the Bleeder: Gently tighten the bleed screw. It does not need to be extremely tight. Snug is perfect. Over-tightening can strip the threads, especially on plastic housings.
- Check the Funnel: You should have seen the coolant level in your funnel drop as the escaping air was replaced by liquid. Top up the funnel if needed.
- Start the Engine: With the funnel still in place and partially full, start your Outlander. Let it idle.
- Let it Warm Up: Allow the engine to run until it reaches operating temperature. You’ll know this is happening when the cooling fan kicks on. You will see more air bubbles coming up through the funnel as the thermostat opens and coolant begins to circulate fully.
- Gently Rev the Engine: Squeeze the throttle lightly a few times (to around 2000-2500 RPM) for a few seconds. This helps dislodge any remaining stubborn air pockets.
- Wait for Bubbles to Stop: Once the engine is warm and you no longer see any bubbles coming up into the funnel, the system is bled.
- Finish Up: Shut off the engine. Let it cool down slightly. Use the stopper to plug the funnel, remove it, and reinstall the radiator cap securely.
- Check the Overflow Reservoir: Top off the plastic overflow tank to the “FULL” line. As the engine cools completely, it may draw some coolant from this reservoir.
- Final Check: After a short, easy ride, let the machine cool down completely one last time and re-check the level in the overflow reservoir, adding more if necessary.
Common Problems and Mistakes to Avoid
Even a simple job can go wrong. Being aware of the common problems with can am outlander coolant bleed screw usage will help you avoid costly mistakes.
H3: Over-tightening and Stripping the Screw
This is the most common disaster. The bleed screw and its housing are often made of soft metal or plastic. Using too much force will strip the threads, creating a leak that can be difficult and expensive to fix. Remember: snug, not cranked.
H3: Bleeding on a Hot Engine
This is incredibly dangerous. Opening any part of a hot cooling system will release pressurized steam and scalding coolant. Always, always work on a cold engine.
H3: Not Waiting for a Solid Stream of Coolant
Patience is key. If you tighten the screw while it’s still sputtering and spitting bubbles, you’re leaving air trapped inside. Wait for that smooth, solid stream of antifreeze.
H3: Forgetting to Top Off the System
Bleeding releases air, which creates space. If you don’t keep adding coolant (ideally with a spill-free funnel), the system will just suck more air back in through the radiator neck, defeating the purpose of the whole process.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Coolant Management
Part of being a responsible rider and mechanic is handling fluids correctly. A good eco-friendly can am outlander coolant bleed screw process includes thinking about the environment.
Used engine coolant (ethylene glycol) is sweet-tasting but highly toxic to pets, wildlife, and humans. Never pour it down a drain or let it spill onto the ground.
Always use a clean drain pan to catch any runoff. Any coolant you drain or spill should be collected in a sealed container and taken to your local auto parts store or municipal hazardous waste facility for proper disposal. This is a crucial part of any sustainable can am outlander coolant bleed screw care guide.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Can-Am Outlander Coolant Bleed Screw
What happens if I don’t bleed the coolant system?
You run a very high risk of the engine overheating. Trapped air prevents the cooling system from working at full capacity, which can lead to warped cylinder heads, blown head gaskets, or a seized engine—all of which are extremely expensive repairs.
How often should I bleed my coolant system?
You only need to bleed the system when it has been opened or drained. This includes after a coolant flush, replacing a radiator or hose, or any repair that involves draining the antifreeze. You don’t need to do it as part of routine interval maintenance if the system hasn’t been touched.
The bleed screw is stripped or broken! What do I do?
This is a tough spot. If the head is stripped, you might be able to use a screw extractor kit. If the threads in the housing are stripped, the entire part (like the thermostat housing) will likely need to be replaced. If you’re not comfortable with these repairs, this is the time to call a professional mechanic.
Can I just use water instead of coolant?
Only in a dire trail-side emergency to get you back to the truck. Water has no anti-corrosion properties and a much lower boiling point and higher freezing point than proper coolant. Drain the water and refill with the correct 50/50 coolant mix as soon as possible.
Mastering the coolant bleeding process is a fundamental skill for any DIY Outlander owner. It’s a simple task that pays huge dividends in engine reliability and peace of mind on the trail.
By following this guide and understanding the importance of that little bleed screw, you’ve equipped yourself to handle one of the most critical aspects of your machine’s maintenance. You’ll save yourself from frustration and potentially thousands in repair bills.
Now get those tools out, do the job with confidence, and get back on the trail. Ride safe, ride smart, and stay cool!
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