You’re geared up, the new oil and filter are on the bench, and your Can-Am Outlander is ready for some love. You slide underneath, ready to get started, and then… you stop. Staring at a maze of bolts under a beefy skid plate, you ask the classic question: “Where in the world is the drain plug?”
We’ve all been there. It’s a common moment of hesitation that can turn a simple maintenance job into a frustrating guessing game. The fear of loosening the wrong bolt is real, and the consequences can be messy and expensive.
Promise yourself this is the last time you’ll feel that uncertainty. This comprehensive guide from FatBoysOffroad is here to eliminate the guesswork. We’ll show you exactly where to find every critical drain plug on your machine, turning this essential task into a straightforward, satisfying part of owning your ATV. We’ll cover the engine oil, front and rear differentials, and provide pro tips that will make you work like a seasoned tech.
Why Knowing Your Can Am Outlander Drain Plug Location is Non-Negotiable
It might seem trivial, but correctly identifying the can am outlander drain plug location is the foundation of proper ATV maintenance. Getting this wrong isn’t just an inconvenience; it can lead to serious mechanical headaches.
The benefits of knowing exactly where to look are huge. You ensure a complete and clean drain of old, contaminated fluid, which is vital for engine and drivetrain longevity. You prevent the nightmare scenario of stripping the wrong bolt or, even worse, draining a fluid you didn’t intend to touch, like your coolant.
This knowledge is about working smarter, not harder. It protects your investment, saves you time, and gives you the confidence to tackle the job right, every single time. This is one of the most important benefits of can am outlander drain plug location mastery.
The Essential Toolkit: Gearing Up for the Job
Before you even think about sliding under your rig, let’s get your tools in order. Having everything ready prevents you from scrambling for a socket with oily hands. Here’s your basic checklist:
- Socket Set and Ratchet: You’ll need a good metric set. The engine oil drain plug is often a 17mm hex bolt, while differential plugs are frequently an 8mm or 10mm Allen (hex key).
- Torque Wrench: This is not optional. Overtightening a drain plug, especially into an aluminum case, is a recipe for disaster. A torque wrench is your best insurance against stripped threads.
- Drain Pan: Get a low-profile one with a capacity of at least 6 quarts to be safe. A pan with a built-in spout makes recycling the old oil much cleaner.
- Funnel: A long, flexible funnel is essential for refilling the front differential and engine without making a mess.
- Shop Rags or Paper Towels: You will make a mess. It’s inevitable. Be prepared.
- Nitrile Gloves and Safety Glasses: Protect your hands from grime and your eyes from unexpected splashes.
- New Crush Washers/O-Rings: Never reuse the old ones. These are single-use seals. Your Can-Am dealer or an online parts store will have the exact ones you need.
Your Complete Can Am Outlander Drain Plug Location Guide
Alright, let’s get to the main event. Can-Am Outlanders, especially across different generations (like the G1 and G2 chassis), can have slight variations. However, the general principles and locations are very consistent. We’ll break this down by system in this essential can am outlander drain plug location guide.
The Engine Oil Drain Plug: The Main Event
This is the one you’ll be looking for most often. On virtually all modern Can-Am Outlanders (450, 570, 650, 850, 1000), the engine oil drain plug is located on the bottom of the engine’s crankcase, on the right-hand side of the vehicle (if you’re sitting on it).
Most factory and aftermarket skid plates will have a specific cutout or hole directly underneath it for easy access. Look for a 17mm hex-head bolt with a metal crush washer. It sits relatively flush with the engine case. Don’t confuse it with other bolts holding the engine case together. The drain plug stands alone.
A pro tip for how to can am outlander drain plug location: Clean the area around the plug with a rag and some brake cleaner before you remove it. This prevents any dirt or debris from falling into your engine’s crankcase when you reinstall the plug.
The Front Differential Drain & Fill Plugs
The front differential fluid is often neglected, but it’s crucial for your 4×4 system. You’ll find two plugs on the front differential housing.
- The Drain Plug: This is located at the very bottom of the differential case, allowing gravity to do its work. It’s typically an 8mm Allen (hex) plug.
- The Fill/Check Plug: This is located on the side of the differential case, usually on the left side. It’s also an 8mm Allen plug. The fluid level should be right at the bottom of this hole’s threads.
CRITICAL PRO TIP: Always loosen and remove the fill plug first! You must ensure you can refill the differential before you drain it. Nothing is worse than draining the fluid only to find the fill plug is seized or stripped, leaving your machine immobile.
The Rear Differential / Gearbox Drain & Fill Plugs
The rear of the Outlander houses the gearbox/transmission, which often serves as the rear differential. Just like the front, it has two plugs you need to know.
- The Drain Plug: You’ll find this at the lowest point of the rear gearbox housing, facing downward. It’s almost always an 8mm Allen (hex) plug.
- The Fill/Check Plug: This plug is located higher up on the side of the gearbox, typically on the right side. It serves as both the fill port and the level check. Again, it’s usually an 8mm Allen plug.
The same critical rule applies here: Always remove the fill plug before the drain plug. This is one of the most important can am outlander drain plug location best practices you can adopt.
Step-by-Step: How to Safely Drain Your Outlander’s Fluids
Now that you know where everything is, let’s walk through the process. Following these steps will ensure a clean, safe, and effective fluid change.
- Prep Your ATV and Workspace: Park on level ground. Run the engine for 2-3 minutes to warm the oil, which helps it drain faster and carry more contaminants out with it. Don’t get it scorching hot.
- Position Your Drain Pan: Slide your drain pan directly under the plug you’re about to remove. Anticipate that the oil stream will shoot out initially before settling into a vertical drip.
- Remove the Fill Plug First (for Diffs): As we hammered home earlier, for the front or rear differential, always crack the fill plug loose first to ensure you can refill it.
- Carefully Loosen and Remove the Drain Plug: Using the correct size socket or Allen key, turn the plug counter-clockwise. Once it’s loose, you can usually finish unscrewing it by hand. Keep a slight upward pressure on it until the last thread, then pull it away quickly to minimize the mess on your hand.
- Let it Drain Completely: Give it a good 10-15 minutes to let every last drop of old fluid drip out. This is a good time to inspect the old oil for any metal shavings or milky appearance (a sign of water contamination).
- Clean and Inspect the Drain Plug: Wipe the drain plug clean. If it’s a magnetic plug, clean off any metal fuzz. Inspect the threads for any damage.
- Install a New Crush Washer/O-ring: Slide a brand new crush washer onto the engine oil drain plug or ensure the O-ring on the differential plug is new and in good condition. This is your seal against leaks.
- Reinstall and Torque to Spec: Thread the plug back in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Then, use your torque wrench to tighten it to the manufacturer’s specification (check your owner’s manual!). For most Outlanders, the engine oil plug is around 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) and diff plugs are around 23 Nm (17 lb-ft), but always verify for your specific model.
Common Problems with Can Am Outlander Drain Plug Location and How to Avoid Them
Even with a map, you can run into trouble. Here are some of the most frequent issues we see at the shop and how you can sidestep them. This is your guide to avoiding common problems with can am outlander drain plug location.
The Stripped Drain Plug Nightmare
This is the number one fear. It’s caused by overtightening or using the wrong tool. The aluminum threads in the engine or differential case are much softer than the steel plug.
Prevention: Use a high-quality, 6-point socket or Allen key that fits snugly. Most importantly, use a torque wrench and tighten to the exact spec. Never guess.
Cure: If it’s too late, don’t panic. Sometimes a bolt extractor kit can work. For severely damaged threads, you may need a professional to install a thread repair insert like a Heli-Coil. This is a job best left to the experts.
The Dreaded Leak: Causes and Cures
You finish the job, feel proud, and come back an hour later to see a fresh puddle under your machine. It’s infuriating.
Prevention: This is almost always caused by re-using the old crush washer. They are designed to deform and create a one-time seal. Always replace it. Also, make sure the mating surface on the engine case is perfectly clean before you install the new plug.
Cure: If you have a leak, you’ll likely have to drain the new fluid into a clean pan, install a new washer, and re-torque the plug. It’s a pain, but it’s the right way to fix it.
Pro Tips and Best Practices for Drain Plug Care
Want to take your maintenance game to the next level? Follow this can am outlander drain plug location care guide.
- Invest in a Magnetic Drain Plug: For a few extra bucks, a magnetic drain plug is a fantastic upgrade. It will trap fine metallic particles circulating in your oil, giving you a great early warning sign of internal wear.
- Keep it Clean: As mentioned, always clean the area around the plug before removal. A little bit of grit falling into your engine can cause a lot of damage over time.
- Document Your Torque Specs: Write down the torque specs for your engine and diff plugs in your owner’s manual or on a label you keep with your tools. It saves you from having to look it up every single time.
Eco-Friendly Fluid Disposal: A Sustainable Approach
Being a responsible off-roader means protecting the trails and the environment. A sustainable can am outlander drain plug location strategy includes proper disposal of your used fluids. Used motor oil is highly toxic and never belongs on the ground or in the trash.
The solution is simple. Pour your used oil from your drain pan into a sealed container (like the empty oil bottle from your new oil). Nearly every auto parts store (like AutoZone, O’Reilly, or Advance Auto Parts) will take your used motor oil for recycling, completely free of charge. This is the best eco-friendly can am outlander drain plug location practice.
Frequently Asked Questions About Can Am Outlander Drain Plug Location
What size is the Can-Am Outlander oil drain plug?
While it can vary slightly, the most common size for the engine oil drain plug on modern Can-Am Outlanders is a 17mm hex head. The front and rear differential plugs are typically an 8mm Allen (hex key) head. Always double-check with the right tool before applying force.
Do I need to replace the drain plug washer every time?
Yes, absolutely. The metal washer on your engine oil drain plug is a “crush washer.” It’s made of soft metal designed to deform and create a perfect seal when torqued. Once crushed, it won’t seal properly a second time, leading to leaks. They are cheap insurance—always use a new one.
What happens if I overtighten the drain plug?
Overtightening is a costly mistake. You risk stripping the threads in the soft aluminum engine or differential case. Repairing these threads is an intensive and expensive job. Using a torque wrench set to the manufacturer’s specification is the only way to guarantee you’re not too tight or too loose.
Where is the drain plug on an Outlander 570 specifically?
The location is consistent with the rest of the Outlander family. Look on the bottom of the engine, on the right side of the machine. You will see a dedicated access hole in the factory skid plate that leads you directly to the 17mm drain plug.
You’ve now got the map and the know-how. Finding your Can-Am Outlander’s drain plugs is no longer a mystery. By using the right tools, following a clean procedure, and respecting the torque wrench, you can handle this crucial maintenance task with the confidence of a pro.
Now get out there, get your hands a little dirty, and keep that Outlander running strong for years of trail adventures. Ride safe!
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