Your Can-Am Outlander is a beast on the trails, built to conquer mud, rocks, and whatever else you throw at it. But all that rugged performance depends on one thing: clean engine blood. The thought of doing your own maintenance can seem a bit daunting, but we’re here to tell you it’s one of the most rewarding jobs you can do for your machine.
In this comprehensive guide, we promise to walk you through every single step of a successful can am outlander oil change. We’ll demystify the process, turning a potentially messy task into a satisfying, money-saving ritual that keeps your ATV running at its absolute best.
Get ready to learn how to gather the right tools, follow the exact procedure for your machine, avoid common pitfalls, and even handle disposal responsibly. Let’s get those hands dirty.
Why a Regular Can Am Outlander Oil Change is Non-Negotiable
Skipping or delaying an oil change is one of the fastest ways to sideline your Outlander. Engine oil is more than just a lubricant; it’s the lifeblood of your Rotax engine, performing several critical jobs at once.
Understanding the benefits of a can am outlander oil change makes it clear why this is the most important piece of preventative maintenance you can perform. Fresh oil is essential for:
- Superior Lubrication: It creates a protective film between moving parts like the piston, crankshaft, and bearings, drastically reducing friction and wear. Old, broken-down oil can’t provide this protection.
- Engine Cooling: Oil carries heat away from the hottest parts of your engine, like the combustion chamber. As oil degrades, its ability to cool efficiently diminishes, leading to overheating.
- Cleaning and Debris Removal: Fresh oil with new detergents suspends tiny metal particles, dirt, and combustion byproducts, carrying them to the oil filter. A saturated filter and dirty oil leave these harmful contaminants circulating in your engine.
- Corrosion Prevention: Additives in the oil prevent rust and corrosion from forming on internal engine components, especially during periods of storage.
Off-roading is an extreme environment. Dust, water, and high RPMs put immense stress on your engine and its oil. Sticking to a regular service interval is your best insurance policy against catastrophic engine failure.
Gearing Up: The Right Tools and Parts for the Job
Walking into a job with the wrong gear is a recipe for frustration. Before you even think about loosening a bolt, take a few minutes to gather everything you need. This makes the entire process smooth and clean.
Essential Tools and Supplies
Most of these are standard items in a DIYer’s garage. The key is having them within arm’s reach.
- Socket Set and Ratchet: You’ll need specific sizes (like 8mm, 10mm, and 17mm or 18mm depending on your model) for skid plates and drain plugs.
- Torque Wrench: This is not optional. Proper torque on your drain plugs prevents leaks and stripped threads.
- Oil Filter Wrench: A cap-style wrench or a strap wrench will work. Check your filter for the correct size.
- Oil Drain Pan: Get one with at least a 4-quart capacity to be safe.
- Funnel: A long, narrow funnel is best to avoid spilling fresh oil all over your engine.
- Shop Rags or Towels: You will make a mess. It’s inevitable. Be prepared.
- Nitrile Gloves: Keep used motor oil off your skin.
The Correct Oil and Filter: A Critical Choice
Using the wrong fluids is a costly mistake. Always consult your owner’s manual for the exact specifications, but here’s the general breakdown for most modern Outlanders.
- Engine Oil: BRP recommends its own XPS 4-Stroke Synthetic Blend Oil. For most Rotax V-Twin engines (570, 650, 850, 1000), you’ll use 5W-40. Always double-check your manual. Using a high-quality, powersports-specific synthetic oil is crucial due to the high-revving nature of these engines.
- Oil Filter: Stick with the genuine BRP/Can-Am oil filter. Aftermarket filters can have different bypass valve pressures and filtration media, which can risk oil starvation. It’s not worth the few dollars you might save.
- Drain Plug O-Rings/Crush Washers: Your Outlander has two drain plugs (one for the engine, one for the oil tank). Each has a sealing O-ring or crush washer. You must replace these every time. Reusing them is the number one cause of slow, annoying oil leaks.
The Complete How-To Can Am Outlander Oil Change Guide
Alright, you’ve got your gear. Now for the fun part. This step-by-step can am outlander oil change guide will walk you through the entire process. We’ll assume you may need to remove a skid plate for access.
Step 1: Prep and Warm-Up
Start your Outlander and let it run for 3-5 minutes. This warms the oil, making it thinner and allowing it to drain out faster and more completely. Don’t get it scorching hot, just warm to the touch. Park it on a level surface.
Step 2: Access the Drain Plugs and Filter
If you have an aftermarket skid plate, now’s the time to remove it using your socket set. This will give you clear access to both drain plugs and the oil filter. Take a moment to wipe down the area around the plugs and filter with a rag to prevent dirt from falling into your engine.
Step 3: Drain the Oil Tank First
Your Outlander has a dry-sump oil system, meaning most of the oil is stored in a separate tank, not just in the engine pan. Locate the oil tank drain plug (it’s typically towards the rear of the engine). Place your drain pan underneath, and using your socket, loosen and remove the plug. Let it drain completely.
Step 4: Drain the Engine Crankcase
Now, locate the engine crankcase drain plug (it’s usually the one further forward and is often magnetic). Reposition your drain pan and remove this plug. You’ll get less oil out of here, but it’s a critical step. While it’s draining, inspect the magnetic tip for any large metal shavings—fine metallic dust is normal, but large chunks could indicate a problem.
Step 5: Replace the Oil Filter
Position your drain pan under the oil filter. Using your oil filter wrench, turn the filter counter-clockwise to loosen it. Oil will spill out. Once it’s loose, finish unscrewing it by hand and carefully lower it into the pan.
Take your new filter and dab a small amount of fresh oil on the rubber gasket. This ensures a good seal. Screw the new filter on by hand until it makes contact with the engine block, then give it an additional 3/4 of a turn. Do not overtighten it!
Step 6: Reinstall Drain Plugs and Torque to Spec
Clean both drain plugs and the areas around the drain holes. Install the new O-rings or crush washers on each plug. Thread them back in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Using your torque wrench, tighten the engine drain plug to 15 ft-lbs (20 Nm) and the oil tank drain plug to 15 ft-lbs (20 Nm). Always verify these torque specs in your service manual.
Step 7: Refill With Fresh Oil
Remove the oil fill cap/dipstick. Place your funnel in the opening and slowly add the manufacturer-recommended amount of oil (typically around 2.1 quarts or 2 liters, but check your manual!). Don’t just dump it all in; add about 80% of the capacity first.
Step 8: The Final Check
Install the dipstick but don’t screw it in. Let the engine run for about 30 seconds to circulate the new oil and fill the filter. Shut it off. Wait a minute for the oil to settle, then check the level properly: unscrew the dipstick, wipe it clean, re-insert it without screwing it in, pull it out, and check the level. Add small amounts of oil until it reaches the top of the safe zone on the dipstick. Screw the cap back on securely and check for any leaks around the drain plugs and filter.
Common Problems with Can Am Outlander Oil Change (And How to Avoid Them)
Even a straightforward job can go wrong. Being aware of these common problems with a can am outlander oil change can save you a massive headache.
The Dreaded Stripped Drain Plug
This happens from over-tightening. The aluminum threads in the engine case are soft. The only way to prevent this is to use a torque wrench and tighten to the factory specification. If it’s too late, you may need a thread repair kit like a Heli-Coil.
A Leaky Oil Filter
This is usually caused by one of two things: the old filter’s rubber gasket stuck to the engine block (always check!), or over-tightening the new filter, which can deform the gasket. Hand-tight plus 3/4 of a turn is all you need.
Forgetting to Replace the Crush Washers
Those little metal washers or rubber O-rings are single-use items. They crush to create a perfect seal. Reusing them is asking for a slow, persistent oil drip that will make a mess of your garage floor.
Incorrect Oil Level
Over-filling can be just as bad as under-filling. Too much oil can cause foaming and put extra pressure on seals, leading to leaks. Always follow the proper checking procedure (run, stop, wait, check without screwing in dipstick) and add oil slowly.
The Sustainable Can Am Outlander Oil Change: Eco-Friendly Practices
Being an off-roader means respecting the environment we play in. A key part of our can am outlander oil change care guide is responsible disposal.
A sustainable can am outlander oil change is easy to achieve. Never, ever dump used oil on the ground or in the trash. It’s highly toxic and a single oil change can contaminate a million gallons of fresh water.
Pour your used oil from the drain pan into the empty oil containers you just bought. Most auto parts stores (like AutoZone, O’Reilly, etc.) will accept used motor oil and old filters for recycling, completely free of charge. It’s a simple, responsible step every DIY mechanic should take.
Frequently Asked Questions About Your Can Am Outlander Oil Change
How often should I change the oil in my Can-Am Outlander?
For the average rider, Can-Am recommends an oil change after the initial break-in period (around 10 hours), and then every 6 months, 100 hours of use, or 1,200 miles (2,000 km), whichever comes first. If you frequently ride in extremely muddy, dusty, or wet conditions, you should change it more often.
Can I use automotive oil in my Outlander?
It’s highly discouraged. ATVs like the Outlander often have a wet clutch system that shares engine oil. Automotive oils contain friction modifiers that can cause the clutch to slip and fail. Always use a high-quality, JASO MA/MA2-rated powersports oil.
What is the oil capacity for my Can-Am Outlander?
This varies slightly by engine size. A Rotax 850 or 1000 V-Twin engine typically takes around 2.1 US quarts (2.0 liters). A 570 or 650 is similar. However, you must always confirm the exact capacity in your owner’s manual and use the dipstick for the final measurement.
Do I really need a torque wrench for this job?
Yes. Absolutely, 100%. The “good-and-tight” method is how people strip threads and end up with a very expensive repair bill. A decent torque wrench is a small investment that protects your very expensive engine. It’s one of the most important can am outlander oil change best practices.
Congratulations! You now have the knowledge and confidence to tackle your own can am outlander oil change. Taking this simple task into your own hands not only saves you money but also connects you more deeply with your machine. You’ll know the job was done right, with the best parts, and you’ll have the satisfaction of being a self-sufficient owner.
Now, gear up, follow the steps, and keep that Outlander’s heart beating strong for many trails to come. Ride safe and stay dirty!
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