Your Can-Am Outlander Pro isn’t just an ATV; it’s a workhorse, a trail companion, and your ticket to off-road freedom. It hauls, it climbs, and it takes a beating so you don’t have to. But just like any high-performance machine, it needs the right care to stay at the top of its game.
We know the thought of maintenance can seem daunting, but we promise this guide will walk you through every single step of a can am outlander pro oil change with the confidence of a seasoned pro. You’ll save a trip to the dealer, pocket some cash, and gain the satisfaction of knowing the job was done right.
In this ultimate guide, we’ll cover the essential tools and supplies, a detailed step-by-step process, common mistakes to avoid, and even some pro tips for a clean, sustainable job. Let’s get those hands dirty.
Why a Regular Oil Change is Non-Negotiable for Your Outlander Pro
Skipping an oil change on your Outlander is like asking a marathon runner to compete without water. Engine oil is the lifeblood of your machine, and keeping it fresh is the single most important piece of maintenance you can perform.
Understanding the benefits of a can am outlander pro oil change is key to staying motivated. Fresh oil does more than just lubricate; it’s a multi-tasking powerhouse for your engine’s health.
- Engine Longevity: Clean oil contains detergents that remove harmful sludge and carbon deposits. Old, dirty oil loses this ability, leading to increased friction, wear, and tear on critical components like pistons, bearings, and camshafts.
- Peak Performance & Power: Proper lubrication reduces internal friction, allowing your Rotax engine to operate more efficiently. This translates directly to optimal power output and throttle response when you need it most.
- Superior Cooling: Oil is responsible for a significant portion of your engine’s cooling. It carries heat away from the hottest parts of the engine. As oil breaks down, its ability to dissipate heat diminishes, increasing the risk of overheating on tough trails or during heavy work.
- Warranty Protection: Following the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals is often a requirement to keep your warranty valid. Documenting your oil changes is proof that you’re taking proper care of your investment.
Gathering Your Tools & Supplies: The Pro’s Checklist
Nothing slows down a DIY job like having to stop midway through for a tool you forgot. Before you even think about touching a wrench, get everything you need laid out and ready to go. A little preparation makes the whole process smooth and stress-free.
Essential Parts & Fluids
- Engine Oil: The heart of the operation. Your Outlander Pro requires a specific type of oil. The easiest route is the XPS Oil Change Kit from BRP, which includes the correct oil, filter, and O-rings. If sourcing separately, consult your owner’s manual, but you’ll typically need about 2.1 US quarts (2 liters) of XPS 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil.
- Oil Filter: Always replace the filter with every oil change. A high-quality filter (like the one in the XPS kit) is crucial for trapping contaminants.
- Drain Plug Sealing Washer/O-Rings: Do not reuse the old ones! These are single-use items that ensure a leak-free seal. The XPS kit includes these.
Must-Have Tools
- Ratchet with socket set (you’ll likely need 8mm, 10mm, and 17mm or 18mm sockets)
- Torque wrench (This is highly recommended to avoid stripping threads)
- Oil filter wrench or cap-style socket
- Funnel
- Oil drain pan (at least 3-quart capacity)
- Nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean
- Shop rags or paper towels for cleanup
- A piece of cardboard to place under the machine to catch any drips
The Complete Can Am Outlander Pro Oil Change Guide: Step-by-Step
Alright, you’ve got your gear, and you’re ready to tackle the job. This is the core of our can am outlander pro oil change guide. Follow these steps carefully, and your machine will be running smoothly in no time. We’ll show you exactly how to can am outlander pro oil change like an expert.
Step 1: Prep Your Workspace & Warm Up the Engine
First, park your Outlander on a level surface. A flat garage floor is perfect. This ensures the oil drains completely and you get an accurate reading when you refill.
Next, start the engine and let it run for 2-3 minutes. You don’t want it scorching hot, just warm. Warming the oil thins it out, allowing it to flow more easily and carry more suspended contaminants out with it.
Step 2: Locate and Remove Skid Plates & Drain Plug
Get down and look underneath your ATV. You’ll likely need to remove a small access panel or a portion of the skid plate to get to the engine oil drain plug. This is usually held on by a few 8mm or 10mm bolts.
Once you have clear access, identify the engine oil drain plug. It’s typically a 17mm or 18mm bolt located at the lowest point of the engine crankcase. Place your drain pan directly underneath it.
Step 3: Drain the Old Oil Completely
Using your ratchet and the correct socket, break the drain plug loose. It might be tight, so give it a firm, steady turn. Once it’s loose, you should be able to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.
Be ready for the oil to flow out as you remove the last thread. Let the oil drain completely, which may take 5-10 minutes. While it’s draining, clean the old sealing washer off the drain plug and wipe the plug itself clean.
Step 4: Replace the Oil Filter
While the last of the oil is dripping out, move to the oil filter. It’s a black canister, usually located on the side of the engine. Place some rags underneath it to catch any drips.
Using your oil filter wrench, turn the filter counter-clockwise to loosen and remove it. Before installing the new filter, take a dab of new oil on your fingertip and lubricate the rubber O-ring on the new filter. This ensures a good seal and prevents the gasket from bunching up.
Screw the new filter on by hand until it makes contact with the engine housing, then give it another three-quarters of a turn. Do not over-tighten it! Hand-tight plus a little more is all you need.
Step 5: Reinstall the Drain Plug
Once the oil has finished draining, wipe the drain plug area on the engine clean. Install the new sealing washer onto your clean drain plug.
Thread the drain plug back into the engine by hand to avoid cross-threading. Use your torque wrench to tighten it to the factory specification, which is typically around 18-22 ft-lbs (25-30 Nm). If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten it until it’s snug, then give it a final quarter-turn. Be very careful not to strip the aluminum threads.
Step 6: Refill with Fresh Oil
With the drain plug and filter secure, it’s time to add the lifeblood back in. Remove the oil filler cap/dipstick (usually yellow). Place a clean funnel into the opening and slowly pour in about 1.8 quarts of the new oil.
Don’t dump the full amount in at once. The specification is around 2.1 quarts, but it’s always best to add a little less, check the level, and top it off as needed to avoid overfilling.
Step 7: Final Checks and Cleanup
Re-insert the dipstick, then pull it out, wipe it clean, and insert it fully again to get an accurate reading. The oil level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick. Add a small amount of oil if needed to bring it to the “MAX” line.
Replace the filler cap, start the engine, and let it run for 30 seconds. This circulates the new oil and fills the new filter. Shut it off, wait a minute for the oil to settle, and check the level one last time. Top off if necessary. Finally, check for any leaks around the drain plug and filter.
Common Problems and Pro Tips for a Flawless Oil Change
Even a straightforward job can have pitfalls. Here are some of the most common problems with can am outlander pro oil change procedures and some expert tips to help you avoid them.
- Stripping the Drain Plug: This is the number one fear for any DIYer. The cause is almost always over-tightening. Use a torque wrench. It’s a small investment that prevents a very expensive repair.
- Forgetting the Sealing Washer: That tiny copper or aluminum washer is critical. Reusing an old one or forgetting it entirely is a guaranteed recipe for a slow, messy leak. Always use a new one.
- Using the Wrong Oil: Not all oils are created equal. Your Outlander Pro’s high-performance engine requires oil with specific properties. Stick with the manufacturer’s recommendation to ensure proper protection.
- Overfilling the Engine: More is not better. Too much oil can cause foaming, leading to poor lubrication and increased pressure that can blow out seals. Always fill, check, and top off slowly.
One of our favorite can am outlander pro oil change tips is to write the date and machine hours on the new oil filter with a permanent marker. It’s a simple, foolproof way to keep track of your service intervals.
Beyond the Basics: Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Oil Change Practices
Being a responsible off-roader means protecting the trails and environment we love to explore. A sustainable can am outlander pro oil change is easy to do and makes a big difference.
The most important part of an eco-friendly can am outlander pro oil change is proper disposal. Used motor oil is a hazardous material and must never be poured down a drain or on the ground. A single quart of oil can contaminate thousands of gallons of water.
Here are some can am outlander pro oil change best practices for sustainability:
- Carefully pour your used oil from the drain pan into a sealed container, like the empty oil bottles you just used.
- Take the used oil and the old filter to a designated collection center. Most auto parts stores (like AutoZone or O’Reilly Auto Parts) and local recycling facilities will accept it for free.
- Always use a drain pan and lay down cardboard to prevent spills. If a spill does happen, clean it up immediately with an absorbent material like kitty litter.
Frequently Asked Questions About Your Can Am Outlander Pro Oil Change
How often should I change the oil in my Can-Am Outlander Pro?
For a new machine, the first oil change is critical and should be done after the initial break-in period (around 10-25 hours). After that, the general rule is every 50-100 hours of use or at least once a year, whichever comes first. If you ride in extremely dusty, wet, or muddy conditions, you should change it more frequently.
What type of oil is best for the Outlander Pro?
The manufacturer, BRP, strongly recommends using their XPS 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil. It’s specifically formulated for the high-stress demands of a Rotax engine. Using the recommended oil is the safest bet for performance and engine longevity.
Do I really need to use a torque wrench?
While you can get by without one, we strongly recommend it. The engine case is made of aluminum, which is much softer than the steel drain plug. It’s very easy to over-tighten and strip the threads, turning a $50 DIY job into a $500+ repair. A torque wrench removes all the guesswork.
What do I do with the used oil and filter?
Pour the used oil into a sealed container and take it, along with the old filter, to an auto parts store or a local hazardous waste collection site. Most will recycle them for free. Never, ever dispose of oil in the trash or on the ground.
There you have it! By following this can am outlander pro oil change care guide, you’ve not only saved money but also invested in the long-term health and performance of your machine. Taking the time to do this essential maintenance yourself builds skill, confidence, and a deeper connection to your ATV.
Now, clean up your tools, recycle that oil, and get back out on the trail. You’ve earned it. Stay safe and happy riding!
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