Can Am Outlander Rear Axle Replacement - Your Step-By-Step Trail-Ready

Hear that dreaded click-click-click from the rear of your rig when you make a turn? We’ve all been there. It’s the sound that signals the end of a CV axle and the beginning of a weekend project. That sound can quickly turn a thrilling ride into a frustrating limp back to the trailer.

But don’t call the shop just yet. We promise this guide will give you the confidence and know-how to tackle this job yourself. A can am outlander rear axle replacement is a totally manageable task for a DIY mechanic with the right tools and a solid plan.

In this ultimate guide from FatBoysOffroad, we’ll walk you through everything. We’ll cover how to diagnose a bad axle, list the exact tools you’ll need, provide a detailed step-by-step replacement process, and share some pro tips that will save you time and headaches. Let’s get those wrenches turning and get your Outlander back on the trail where it belongs.

Spotting the Signs: When Does Your Outlander Axle Need Replacing?

Before you start tearing things apart, you need to be 100% sure the axle is the culprit. A bad CV (Constant Velocity) axle usually gives you a few clear warning signs. Ignoring them can lead to a catastrophic failure on the trail, which could damage your differential or leave you stranded.

Look and listen for these classic symptoms of a failing rear axle.

The Telltale Noises

Your ears are your best diagnostic tool here. A worn-out CV joint, which is the articulating part of the axle, makes very distinct sounds.

Clicking or Popping on Turns: This is the number one sign. The outer CV joint is under the most stress during turns. A loud, rhythmic clicking that gets faster as you accelerate through a turn is a dead giveaway.
Clunking on Acceleration or Deceleration: If you feel or hear a “clunk” when you get on or off the gas, it could be excessive play in a worn inner CV joint.

Visual Inspection Clues

Sometimes, a quick look under your machine can tell you everything you need to know. Grab a flashlight and get a good look at the rear axles.

Torn CV Boots: The black, rubber, accordion-like boots protect the CV joints. If a boot is torn or cracked, grease will be flung everywhere (look for it on your suspension components and the inside of your wheel). Dirt and water get in, destroying the joint in short order.
Visible Wobble: Safely jack up the rear of your ATV and support it on jack stands. Grab the tire at the top and bottom (12 and 6 o’clock) and try to wiggle it. Then grab it at the sides (9 and 3 o’clock). If you feel significant play or can see the axle shaft wobbling near the differential or hub, it’s a strong sign of a bad joint or worn splines.

Gearing Up: Tools & Parts You’ll Need for the Job

There’s nothing worse than getting halfway through a job and realizing you’re missing a crucial tool. A little preparation goes a long way. This isn’t an exhaustive list for every Outlander model, but it covers the essentials for a successful can am outlander rear axle replacement.

Essential Tools

Floor Jack and Jack Stands: Safety first! Never work on a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Socket Set (Metric): You’ll need a range of sizes, including a large axle nut socket (typically 30mm or 32mm, but check your model).
Breaker Bar or Impact Wrench: That axle nut is on there tight. A long breaker bar will give you the leverage you need.
Torque Wrench: Critical for tightening the axle nut and lug nuts to the correct specification. Don’t guess!
Pliers: Needle-nose for cotter pins and regular pliers.
Dead Blow Hammer or Rubber Mallet: For persuading stubborn parts without damaging them.
Pry Bar: A small to medium pry bar is essential for popping the inner CV joint out of the differential.
Brake Cleaner and Shop Rags: For cleaning up old grease and grime.

Parts and Supplies

New Rear Axle Assembly: We recommend buying a complete axle assembly (both inner and outer joints with the shaft). It’s faster, easier, and ensures everything is fresh.
New Cotter Pin: Never reuse an old cotter pin for the axle nut.
Anti-Seize Compound: A little dab on the axle splines makes future removal much easier.
Threadlocker (Blue): Good practice for caliper bolts or other non-rotating fasteners you remove.

The Main Event: Your How-To Can-Am Outlander Rear Axle Replacement Guide

Alright, you’ve diagnosed the problem and gathered your tools. It’s time to get to work. Follow these steps carefully for a smooth replacement. This section is your complete can am outlander rear axle replacement guide.

Step 1: Prep and Safety

Park your Outlander on a level, solid surface. Chock the front wheels to prevent any rolling. This is non-negotiable.

Use a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you’re working on, but don’t remove them yet. You also need to loosen the main axle nut while the tire is on the ground to keep the hub from spinning. Remove the cotter pin, then use your large socket and breaker bar. It will take some force!

Now, use your floor jack to lift the rear of the ATV and securely place your jack stands under the frame or another solid point. Never place them on the A-arms. Once it’s secure, remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Step 2: Disassembly and Axle Removal

With the wheel off, you need to create enough space to pull the axle out of the hub. This usually involves detaching the upper A-arm or the lower shock mount from the steering knuckle (or “hub carrier”).

Remove the Brake Caliper: Unbolt the two caliper bolts and carefully hang the caliper out of the way with a bungee cord or zip tie. Do not let it hang by the brake line, as this can cause damage.
Detach Suspension Components: Remove the bolts holding the upper A-arm to the knuckle. This will allow the entire knuckle assembly to pivot outwards, giving you the slack you need.
Remove the Axle from the Hub: With the suspension loose, you can now pull the hub assembly away from the machine. Gently tap the end of the axle shaft with a dead blow hammer to push it through the hub splines.
Pop the Axle from the Differential: This is often the trickiest part. Position your pry bar between the inner CV joint housing and the differential case. Give it a sharp, firm pop. The axle is held in by a small circlip and should pop right out. Be prepared for a little gear oil to drip out.

Step 3: Installing the New Axle

Installation is mostly the reverse of removal, but pay close attention to these can am outlander rear axle replacement best practices.

Prep the New Axle: Compare the new axle to the old one to ensure it’s the correct length and has the same spline count. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the splines on both ends.
Insert into the Differential: Carefully guide the inner splines of the new axle into the differential. You need to align the splines perfectly. Give the end of the axle a firm, sharp push. You should feel or hear a distinct “click” as the circlip seats inside the differential. Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s locked in.
Insert into the Hub: Guide the outer end of the axle through the hub. Reconnect the upper A-arm to the knuckle, but don’t fully tighten the bolts yet.
Reassemble: Reinstall the brake caliper. Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

Step 4: Final Tightening and Checks

Lower the ATV back onto the ground. Now it’s time to torque everything to spec.

Use your torque wrench to tighten the main axle nut to the manufacturer’s specification (check your service manual!). Install a new cotter pin. Then, torque your lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure the wheel is seated evenly.

Finally, check your differential fluid level and top it off if you lost any during the swap.

Benefits of a Proactive Can-Am Outlander Rear Axle Replacement

Why go through all this trouble? The benefits of can am outlander rear axle replacement go far beyond just fixing a noise. You’re investing in your machine’s health and your own safety.

Restored Performance: A new axle eliminates binding and ensures smooth power delivery to the wheel, especially in tight turns and over rough terrain.
Enhanced Safety: A failing CV joint can break completely, causing a loss of control or leaving you stranded miles from anywhere. A new axle means peace of mind.
Prevents Further Damage: A broken axle flailing around can destroy your differential, hub, A-arms, and brake lines, turning a simple repair into a massive, expensive one.
Increased Resale Value: A well-maintained machine with fresh wear-and-tear parts is always more attractive to a potential buyer.

Pro Tips & Common Problems with Can-Am Outlander Rear Axle Replacement

We’ve done this job more times than we can count. Here are a few can am outlander rear axle replacement tips and pitfalls to watch out for.

Pro Tips from the FatBoysOffroad Garage

The Stubborn Axle Pop: If the axle won’t pop out of the differential, try rotating it 90 degrees and trying again. The circlip sometimes has a sweet spot. A slide hammer with an axle adapter can also work wonders.
Protect the Seals: Be extremely careful not to nick or tear the differential output seal with the axle splines during removal or installation. A damaged seal means a constant leak.
Clean the Splines: Before installing the new axle, use a wire brush and some brake cleaner to clean out the splines inside the wheel hub. This ensures a perfect fit.

Common Problems to Avoid

Forgetting the Circlip: Some aftermarket axles come with the circlip in a separate bag. Make sure it’s installed on the inner joint before you try to pop it into the differential!
Over-torquing/Under-torquing: Guessing at the axle nut torque is a recipe for disaster. Too loose and you’ll destroy the wheel bearing; too tight and you’ll put excessive strain on it. Use a torque wrench.
Mixing Up Axles: On some models, the left and right rear axles can be different lengths. Always double-check that you have the right part for the right side.

Going Green: Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Can-Am Outlander Rear Axle Replacement Practices

Being an off-roader means respecting the environment we love to ride in. A sustainable can am outlander rear axle replacement is all about responsible disposal.

If any differential fluid spilled, clean it up thoroughly with an absorbent material. Never wash it into a storm drain. Take used gear oil to your local auto parts store or a municipal recycling center for proper disposal.

Your old, broken axle is made of steel. Don’t just toss it in the trash. Take it to a local scrap metal recycler. It’s a small step, but it keeps our landfills a little emptier and ensures the materials get a second life.

Frequently Asked Questions About Can-Am Outlander Rear Axle Replacement

How long does it take to replace a Can-Am rear axle?

For a first-timer with the right tools, plan on 2-3 hours per side. An experienced mechanic can often do it in about an hour. Take your time, don’t rush, and prioritize doing it right.

Can I just replace the CV boot instead of the whole axle?

You can, but we generally don’t recommend it. If the boot has been torn for any length of time, dirt and water have already contaminated the joint. Re-booting a damaged joint is a temporary fix at best. Replacing the entire assembly is more reliable and often not much more expensive.

What’s the difference between an OEM and an aftermarket axle?

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) axles are what your Can-Am came with from the factory. They are high quality but can be very expensive. High-quality aftermarket axles from reputable brands can offer similar or even superior strength (like those designed for heavy-duty use) at a much lower price point.

Do I need a wheel alignment after replacing a rear axle?

Generally, no. You are not adjusting any of the alignment settings (camber, toe, or caster) when you replace a rear axle on a Can-Am Outlander with a standard A-arm suspension. However, it’s always good practice to check your tire wear periodically.

Tackling your own can am outlander rear axle replacement is one of the most rewarding jobs you can do. It saves you a ton of money and gives you a deeper understanding of how your machine works. Take it one step at a time, prioritize safety, and before you know it, that annoying clicking will be replaced by the sweet sound of your engine on the trail.

Now get out there, get it done, and get back to riding. Stay safe and have fun!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.