So, you’ve got your eye on a used Can-Am Outlander. Great choice. They’re powerful, capable, and an absolute blast on the trail. But let’s be real—buying any used ATV is a gamble, and a bad purchase can turn your weekend fun fund into a never-ending repair bill.
You’ve probably heard whispers on forums or from buddies about certain models being “problematic.” You agree that dodging a mechanical nightmare is priority number one, right?
I promise this guide will cut through the noise. We’re going to give you a mechanic’s-eye view of the specific can am outlander years to avoid, what to look for, and how to tell a trail-ready beast from a polished-up lemon. Think of this as your pre-purchase inspection checklist on steroids.
We’ll cover the specific red-flag model years, dive deep into the most common problems you’ll encounter, and give you a step-by-step inspection guide to use before you ever hand over your hard-earned cash. Let’s get you ready to buy with confidence.
The “Red Flag” Years: Specific Can-Am Outlander Years to Approach with Caution
First things first: no single model year is a complete write-off. A meticulously maintained machine from a “bad” year can still be a better buy than a thrashed-out machine from a “good” year. However, some years had more documented teething issues right from the factory. This is your essential can am outlander years to avoid guide.
Think of these as years where you need to be extra vigilant with your inspection.
Early Models (Pre-2006): The Pioneers with Quirks
The earliest Outlanders laid the groundwork for the beasts we know today. They were simpler, often carbureted, and didn’t have the high-tech features of modern machines. While that simplicity can be a plus, they had their own set of issues.
Look out for general wear and tear, potential frame rust in wet climates, and electrical systems that are now pushing two decades old. Carburetors can be finicky if the machine has been sitting, so a rough idle or poor starting could mean a carb rebuild is in your future.
Mid-to-Late 2000s (Approx. 2007-2012): More Power, More Problems
This era saw the introduction and refinement of the legendary Rotax V-Twin engines. With big power came new potential problems. These machines were ridden hard, and some early components struggled to keep up.
Reports of premature differential seal leaks, especially the front pinion seal, were common. We also saw more complaints about electrical issues, specifically failing stators and voltage regulators. On the bigger 800cc models, early frames could develop stress cracks if subjected to heavy jumping or overloading.
The G2 Frame Transition (2013-2015): New Platform, New Gremlins
Can-Am introduced its new, stronger “G2” chassis in 2012 for the 1000 and 2013 for other models. While a major improvement, the first couple of years on this new platform weren’t without hiccups. This is a critical period when discussing can am outlander years to avoid.
Early models with Dynamic Power Steering (DPS) had a higher rate of failure. You might find a machine with intermittent power steering or one that pulls to one side. Some users also reported issues with clutch calibration and premature wear, leading to jerky engagement or belt slippage.
Common Problems with Can-Am Outlander Years to Avoid
Knowing the problem years is half the battle. The other half is knowing exactly what to look for. These are the most frequent and costly issues we see in the shop. Learning to spot them is one of the most important can am outlander years to avoid tips.
The Dreaded Frame Cracks
This is the big one. Can-Ams are built tough, but they aren’t indestructible. Hard riding, big jumps, or running oversized tires without proper reinforcement can stress the frame to its breaking point.
Where to Look: Get a good flashlight and get on the ground. Pay close attention to the welds around the front upper A-arm mounts, the area around the rear differential, and the frame section under the engine. Look for cracked paint, which is often the first sign of flexing metal underneath.
Electrical Gremlins: Stators, Regulators, and Wiring
A weak charging system can leave you stranded. The stator, located inside the engine cover, generates power, and the voltage regulator controls it. When one fails, it often takes the other—and your battery—with it.
How to Check: A healthy Outlander should show around 14 volts at the battery terminals when running above idle. If the seller has a multimeter, ask to check it. Also, look for any melted plastic on connectors, especially the big yellow wires coming from the engine case. This is a tell-tale sign of a past or present charging issue.
Differential and Drivetrain Headaches
The drivetrain takes a beating on any 4×4. On Outlanders, common failure points are the differential seals and the CV axles.
What to Inspect: Look for any signs of oil leaking from where the driveshafts enter the front and rear differentials. A wet, grimy diff is a red flag. Grab the CV axles and try to move them in and out of the differential; excessive clunking can mean worn internal splines. Always check the rubber CV boots for rips or tears. A torn boot slings grease everywhere and allows dirt to destroy the joint.
Power Steering (DPS) Failures
Can-Am’s Dynamic Power Steering is great when it works. When it doesn’t, it can be expensive to fix. The unit can fail intermittently, pull to one side, or just quit altogether, leaving you with heavy manual steering.
The Test Ride Tip: During your test ride, pay close attention to the steering. It should be smooth and consistent. Turn the handlebars from lock to lock while stationary and while moving. Any binding, notchiness, or sudden changes in effort should be viewed with suspicion.
Your Pre-Purchase Inspection Guide: How to Spot a Lemon
Alright, time to get your hands dirty. This checklist is your practical, how to can am outlander years to avoid field manual. Never, ever buy an ATV without doing these checks. If a seller rushes you or won’t let you inspect something, walk away.
The Cold Start Test
Insist on seeing the machine started completely cold. A warm engine can hide a multitude of sins. Listen for any loud rattles or knocking sounds on startup. Watch the exhaust for smoke: blue smoke means it’s burning oil, and white smoke that smells sweet could mean a head gasket leak.
Frame and Suspension Check
We mentioned the frame, but now let’s check the suspension. Grab the front and rear tires at the top and bottom and try to wiggle them. Any significant play could mean bad ball joints or wheel bearings. Push down hard on the racks to check the shocks; the machine should compress and rebound smoothly, not bounce like a pogo stick.
Drivetrain and 4×4 Engagement
During the test ride, find a safe spot to test the 4×4 system. Switch from 2WD to 4WD. You should hear a solid clunk as the front differential engages. Ride in a slow figure-eight pattern and listen for any clicking or popping from the front end, which can indicate a bad CV joint.
Check the Vitals: Fluids and Electrics
Pull the engine oil dipstick. The oil should be a honey or dark brown color. If it looks milky like a chocolate milkshake, that’s a classic sign of water or coolant in the oil—a major red flag. Check the coolant level in the overflow bottle. Finally, test every single switch: headlights (high and low beam), taillights, brake lights, and the winch if it has one.
Beyond the “Bad” Years: Why a “Good” Year Can Still Be a Bad Buy
It’s crucial to understand that avoiding certain years is just one piece of the puzzle. The history and maintenance of a specific machine are far more important. The benefits of can am outlander years to avoid are lost if you buy a newer, abused model.
A 2018 model that was sunk in a mud hole every weekend and never washed will be a much worse buy than a 2013 that was meticulously cared for by an older trail rider. Look at the owner as much as you look at the machine.
Be wary of heavy modifications. Huge mud tires and big snorkel kits often mean the ATV has lived a very hard life. While fun, these mods put immense strain on the axles, differentials, and clutch system.
Best Practices for Outlander Ownership: The Care Guide
Once you find a great machine, keeping it that way is key. A good maintenance routine is the most sustainable and eco-friendly approach to ownership, preventing breakdowns and fluid leaks. This is your long-term can am outlander years to avoid care guide.
The Importance of Fluid Changes
Don’t skip fluid changes. Use a quality oil like BRP’s XPS or a compatible synthetic. Change the engine oil, transmission oil, and front/rear differential fluids according to the service manual. Clean fluids are the lifeblood of your machine.
Keeping the Drivetrain Happy
Find all the grease zerks on your suspension and driveshafts and give them a shot of quality grease every few rides. This pushes out water and dirt and keeps everything moving smoothly. Regularly inspect your CV boots—a tiny tear found early can save you a $150 axle replacement.
Electrical System Upkeep
ATVs live in a wet, dirty world. Put dielectric grease on major electrical connections to keep moisture out. If you don’t ride often, keep the battery on a smart tender to prolong its life. A healthy battery puts less strain on the entire charging system.
Frequently Asked Questions About Can-Am Outlander Years to Avoid
Are all 2013-2015 Can-Am Outlanders bad?
No, not at all. They are on our list of years to be cautious with because they were the first models on the new G2 platform, and some early-run issues like the DPS problems were more common. A well-maintained later 2014 or 2015 model, especially one with service records, can be an excellent and reliable machine.
What is the most reliable Can-Am Outlander engine?
The Rotax V-twins are generally very robust across the board. Many riders consider the 570cc and 650cc engines to be the sweet spot for reliability and manageable power. The big-bore 850cc and 1000cc engines are also incredibly reliable, but their massive power means they demand strict adherence to maintenance schedules.
How can I check for frame damage if the ATV is covered in mud?
Simple: ask the seller if you can wash it. If they say no, walk away immediately. A seller with nothing to hide will have no problem with you cleaning the machine for a proper inspection. A clean machine tells no lies, and caked-on mud can easily hide cracks, leaks, and other serious damage.
What are the benefits of can am outlander years to avoid?
The main benefit is peace of mind and saving money. By knowing which years had more factory issues and what those issues are, you can inspect a used machine with an expert’s eye. This helps you avoid buying an ATV that will need thousands in immediate repairs, giving you more time on the trail and less time in the garage.
Choosing a used Can-Am Outlander is an exciting step. Armed with this knowledge, you’re no longer just a buyer; you’re an informed inspector. Take your time, trust your gut, and don’t be afraid to walk away from a machine that doesn’t feel right. The perfect Outlander is out there waiting for you.
Get out there, get dirty, and ride smart!
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