Ever feel that front end on your Renegade getting a little… sloppy? You hit a rut and get a loud clunk, or the steering feels vague and disconnected on a fast trail. You’re not imagining it. That tight, responsive handling you loved when your machine was new has been replaced by a wandering, noisy front end.
I promise you, we can fix that. In most cases, the culprits are worn-out A-arm bushings. They’re small, often-ignored parts, but they are absolutely critical to your ATV’s performance and safety.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about your can am renegade front bushings. We’ll cover how to spot the signs of failure, how to choose the right replacements, and a complete step-by-step process for getting the job done right in your own garage. Let’s get that factory-fresh feel back.
Why Your Can Am Renegade Front Bushings Are So Critical
Think of bushings as the cartilage in your ATV’s suspension joints. They sit inside your A-arms, where the suspension pivots on the frame. Without them, you’d have metal-on-metal contact, which would be incredibly harsh, noisy, and wear out parts in no time.
These small but mighty components serve a few key purposes:
- Absorb Impact: They soak up vibrations and harsh impacts from the trail, giving you a smoother, more controlled ride.
- Allow Smooth Movement: They allow your A-arms to pivot up and down freely as the suspension cycles, keeping your tires planted on the ground.
- Maintain Alignment: They hold your suspension components in their precise locations, which is crucial for proper steering geometry and predictable handling.
The benefits of can am renegade front bushings that are in good condition are immediately noticeable. You get sharper steering, less front-end noise, and more confidence-inspiring control, whether you’re rock crawling or blasting down a fire road.
Spotting the Signs: Common Problems with Can Am Renegade Front Bushings
Your Renegade is pretty good at telling you when something is wrong; you just have to know what to look and listen for. Worn bushings have a few classic symptoms. This is your essential can am renegade front bushings guide to diagnostics.
Audible Clues: Clicks, Clunks, and Squeaks
This is often the first sign. You might hear a metallic clunk or pop when going over bumps or turning the handlebars. This is the sound of excessive movement in the A-arm, where the metal sleeve inside the bushing is slamming against the bolt or A-arm itself.
A persistent squeak, especially when the suspension moves, can also point to a dry, worn-out, or contaminated bushing.
Handling Issues: Vague Steering and Front-End Wander
Does your steering feel loose or imprecise? Do you have to constantly make small corrections to keep the machine going straight? This “wander” is a classic sign of worn bushings.
When the bushings have too much play, they allow the A-arms to shift slightly forward, backward, or side-to-side, which changes your wheel alignment on the fly. This creates an unstable and unnerving feeling at speed.
Visual Inspection: Cracks, Tears, and Excessive Play
The best way to confirm your suspicions is to get your hands dirty. Safely lift the front of your Renegade and secure it on jack stands. Grab a wheel at the top and bottom (12 and 6 o’clock positions) and try to wiggle it.
If you feel significant play or hear a clunking noise, have a friend wiggle the wheel while you look closely at the A-arm pivot points. You can often see the A-arm bolt moving inside the bushing sleeve. You can also gently use a pry bar between the A-arm and the frame mount to check for excessive movement. Any visible slop is a clear sign your bushings are shot.
Choosing Your New Bushings: OEM vs. Aftermarket
Once you’ve confirmed your bushings are done, you have a choice to make. You can stick with factory OEM parts or upgrade to an aftermarket solution. Each has its pros and cons.
OEM Rubber Bushings: The Factory Feel
Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) bushings are typically made from a soft rubber compound. They are designed to provide a quiet and comfortable ride by absorbing a lot of vibration.
However, that softness is also their weakness. Under the heavy loads of aggressive off-roading, mud, and water, they can wear out relatively quickly.
Aftermarket Polyurethane Bushings: Performance and Durability
Most aftermarket kits use polyurethane, a much tougher and more durable material than rubber. Companies like SuperATV, All Balls Racing, and Garage Products offer high-quality kits for the Renegade.
Polyurethane bushings offer a more connected, precise feel and last significantly longer than OEM rubber. The trade-off can be a slightly firmer ride, and they must be installed with plenty of grease to prevent squeaking.
A Note on Sustainable Can Am Renegade Front Bushings
When we talk about being more eco-friendly, longevity is key. Choosing a high-quality polyurethane bushing kit is a great example of a sustainable choice. Because they last so much longer, you’re creating less waste over the life of your ATV compared to replacing cheaper rubber bushings multiple times.
This is one of the best eco-friendly can am renegade front bushings practices you can adopt—buy it once, buy it right.
Your Complete How-To Can Am Renegade Front Bushings Replacement Guide
Alright, let’s get to the main event. This job is well within the reach of a determined DIYer with the right tools and a little patience. Set aside a few hours, put on some music, and let’s get it done.
Safety First & Tools You’ll Need
Before you start, safety is paramount. Never work under an ATV supported only by a jack. Use sturdy, properly rated jack stands on a level, solid surface.
Here’s a list of tools that will make your life easier:
- Floor Jack and Jack Stands
- Socket and Ratchet Set (Metric)
- Torque Wrench
- Breaker Bar
- Ball Joint Separator (or a trusty hammer)
- Pry Bars
- A Heavy-Duty Bench Vise or a Hydraulic Press
- Large Sockets or Bearing Drivers (for pressing bushings)
- Waterproof Marine Grease
- Your Renegade’s Service Manual (for torque specs)
Step-by-Step Removal Process
- Lift and Secure: Chock the rear wheels. Use your floor jack to lift the front of the ATV and place jack stands securely under the frame.
- Remove Wheels: Remove the front wheels to get access to the suspension components.
- Disconnect Suspension: You’ll need to disconnect everything attached to the A-arm. This includes the outer tie rod end, the upper and lower ball joints from the knuckle, and the lower shock bolt.
- Remove A-Arms: With everything disconnected, you can now remove the long bolts that hold the A-arms to the frame. Take note of how they came out; sometimes, they can only be removed in one direction. The A-arms should now be free.
Removing the Old Bushings and Sleeves
This is often the most challenging part of the job. The old bushings can be seized in the A-arms. A hydraulic press is the best tool, but a large bench vise will work.
Find a socket that is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the bushing and another socket that is larger for the bushing to press into. Slowly and carefully press the old bushing out. The inner metal sleeve will come out with it.
Installing the New Bushings
Clean the inside of the A-arm bores thoroughly. Now, take your new polyurethane bushings and apply a liberal amount of the supplied grease to both the inside and outside of each bushing half. Don’t be shy with the grease—this is the key to a long, squeak-free life.
Press the new bushing halves into the A-arm. They should go in fairly easily by hand. Then, grease the new inner metal sleeve and slide it into the bushings.
Reassembly and Final Checks
Reinstall the A-arms onto the frame, but don’t fully tighten the bolts yet. Reconnect the ball joints, tie rod end, and shock. Once everything is connected, put the wheels back on and lower the ATV to the ground.
With the full weight of the machine on the suspension, now you can go back and torque all the A-arm bolts, shock bolt, and ball joint nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications. This is a critical step to prevent premature bushing wear.
Can Am Renegade Front Bushings Best Practices & Care Guide
You’ve done the hard work, now let’s make it last. Proper care will extend the life of your new bushings significantly. This is your essential can am renegade front bushings care guide.
The Importance of Proper Lubrication
If your aftermarket A-arms or bushing kit came with grease zerks, use them! After every few rides, especially after a wet or muddy one, pump a few shots of high-quality marine grease into each zerk until you see fresh grease pushing out the sides. This purges out water and contaminants.
Regular Inspection Routines
Make checking your bushings part of your pre-ride ritual. Simply grab the front rack and give the machine a good shake side-to-side. You’ll quickly get a feel for what’s normal and what feels loose. A quick visual check for damage or pushed-out bushings takes only a few seconds.
Post-Ride Cleaning
Mud, sand, and grit are the natural enemies of suspension components. After a dirty ride, take the time to thoroughly wash your A-arms and the areas around the bushings. This prevents abrasive particles from working their way in and destroying your new parts.
Frequently Asked Questions About Can Am Renegade Front Bushings
How often should I replace my Renegade’s front bushings?
There’s no set mileage. It heavily depends on your riding style and conditions. A good rule of thumb is to inspect them thoroughly every 50 hours or at least once a year. Replace them as soon as you detect any slop, noise, or visible wear.
Can I replace just one bad bushing?
While you technically can, it’s one of the can am renegade front bushings tips we always give: replace them in sets. At a minimum, do both the upper and lower A-arms on one side. Ideally, you should do both front wheels at the same time to ensure even handling and predictable performance.
My new polyurethane bushings are squeaking. What did I do wrong?
Nine times out of ten, the cause is insufficient grease during installation. Polyurethane needs a thick layer of specific grease to allow it to pivot smoothly. If they’re squeaking, you may need to disassemble, clean, and re-grease them thoroughly.
Do I need a special press to install new bushings?
A hydraulic shop press makes the job incredibly easy. However, many DIYers successfully use a large, sturdy bench vise and a collection of sockets or bearing drivers. It takes more effort and care, but it’s absolutely doable at home.
Tackling your can am renegade front bushings is a hugely rewarding job. It saves you money, teaches you more about your machine, and directly results in a safer, better-performing ride. You’ll restore that tight, connected feeling and eliminate those annoying clunks and sloppy steering for good.
Now get those tools out, tighten up that front end, and hit the trails with confidence! Ride safe out there.
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