You’ve seen it on the trails—that beast of a machine, sitting high and mighty, chewing through mud holes that would swallow a stock quad whole. You’re talking about a Can Am Renegade on 33s, and let’s be honest, you want in on the action. There’s a primal appeal to massive tires that promise to take you anywhere.
But you also know it’s not as simple as just bolting on bigger rubber. You’ve heard the whispers of snapped axles, smoked belts, and sluggish performance. You agree that a monster stance isn’t worth a broken machine miles from the truck, right?
I promise this guide will cut through the noise. We’re going to break down exactly what it takes to properly and reliably run 33-inch tires on your Renegade. No fluff, just the real-world experience you need from the crew at FatBoysOffroad.
We’ll cover the undeniable benefits, the harsh realities and common problems, the absolute must-have modifications, and a long-term care guide to keep your upgraded beast running strong. Let’s get wrenching.
Why Go Big? The Real Benefits of a Can Am Renegade on 33s
Before we dive into the nuts and bolts, let’s talk about the “why.” Upgrading to 33s is a serious commitment, but the payoff can be huge if you’re chasing ultimate performance. Understanding the benefits of can am renegade on 33s makes the investment in supporting parts much easier to swallow.
Unmatched Ground Clearance
This is the number one reason riders make the jump. A larger tire diameter physically lifts your entire machine—differentials, A-arms, frame, everything—higher off the ground. That extra couple of inches is the difference between sliding over a rock garden and getting high-centered.
Forget just clearing ruts; you’ll be looking for them. Deep mud, submerged logs, and nasty terrain that stop others in their tracks become your new playground. Your approach, departure, and breakover angles all improve dramatically.
Superior Traction and Footprint
A 33-inch tire has a significantly larger contact patch than a stock tire. More rubber on the ground means more grip. When you air down for serious crawling or sloppy mud, that massive footprint conforms to the terrain, providing incredible traction.
Whether you’re climbing a slick rock face or paddling through a peanut-butter mud hole, the larger lugs and wider surface area give you a decisive advantage. You’ll maintain momentum where smaller tires would just spin and dig.
The Aggressive Stance
Let’s not kid ourselves—it looks absolutely menacing. A Renegade lifted and sitting on a chunky set of 33s has a presence that can’t be ignored. It transforms the look of the machine from a sporty trail quad to a purpose-built off-road weapon.
For many riders, the aesthetic is a huge part of the build. It’s a statement that your machine is built for the gnarliest conditions you can find.
The Reality Check: Common Problems with Can Am Renegade on 33s
Alright, let’s pump the brakes. Bolting on 33s without addressing the weak points is a surefire recipe for a very bad, very expensive day. Here are the common problems with can am renegade on 33s that you must anticipate and prevent.
Drivetrain Stress: Axles, Diffs, and Belts
Your Can-Am’s drivetrain was engineered for stock-sized tires. A 33-inch tire is significantly heavier and has way more rotational mass and leverage. This puts an immense amount of stress on your weakest links.
Stock axles, especially on non-XMR models, become a ticking time bomb. The increased angle from a lift combined with the torque needed to turn a big, heavy tire is what leads to that dreaded *POP* on the trail. Your front differential is also under a lot more strain, and your CVT belt will heat up and slip (or shred) without proper modifications.
Power Loss and Sluggish Performance
Bigger tires effectively change your machine’s gear ratio, making it taller. The result? Your Renegade will feel sluggish and lazy off the line. It struggles to get the tires moving, robbing you of that snappy throttle response you love.
Without correcting this, you’re not only losing performance, but you’re also constantly stressing the engine and CVT system. It’s like trying to start your truck in third gear every single time.
Steering and Handling Changes
Adding unsprung weight this far from the chassis has consequences. Steering will feel heavier and less responsive. The machine’s center of gravity is raised, making it feel more “tippy” in off-camber situations. You have to be a more active and aware rider.
Components like tie rods and power steering motors also take a beating. Expect to replace wear-and-tear parts more frequently.
How to Can Am Renegade on 33s: The Essential Mods Guide
Ready to do it right? This is your roadmap. Following this can am renegade on 33s guide will give you a capable and, more importantly, reliable machine. Do not skip steps!
Step 1: The Lift Kit – Getting the Necessary Clearance
You can’t fit a 33-inch tire without a lift. Period. You have two primary options here, each with its own pros and cons.
- Bracket Lift (2-3 inches): This is the most common entry-level option. Brands like SuperATV and High Lifter make kits that relocate your shock mounts to lift the chassis. Pros: Affordable and relatively easy to install. Cons: Creates steep CV axle angles, which accelerates wear.
- Portal Gear Lifts (4-6 inches): This is the best practice for big tires. Portals are gearboxes that mount at the wheel hub, providing a lift and a built-in gear reduction. Pros: Corrects axle angles, provides a gear reduction to help turn the big tires, and gives you incredible ground clearance. Cons: Significantly more expensive and complex.
Step 2: Clutching for Power – Don’t Skip This!
This is the most critical and often overlooked step. A clutch kit is non-negotiable. It recalibrates your CVT system to compensate for the larger tires, restoring your bottom-end power and throttle response.
A quality kit from a manufacturer like Dalton or EPI will include different springs and flyweights. These parts change how and when your clutches engage, keeping the engine in its optimal powerband. This not only brings the “snap” back but also prevents belt slippage and catastrophic failure.
Step 3: Axle Upgrades – Preparing for the Stress
If you’re running a bracket lift and plan on riding hard, upgrading your axles is cheap insurance. Stock axles will not survive long at steep angles with the torque load of 33s.
Look into heavy-duty options like SuperATV’s Rhino 2.0 or Turner Cycles’ offerings. These are designed with stronger materials and better CV joints to handle the abuse. If you went with portals, your stock axles will last much longer due to the corrected angles.
Step 4: Fender Trimming and Clearance Checks
Even with a lift, you’ll likely experience some rubbing at full suspension compression or full steering lock. Get out your heat gun and a sharp utility knife. You’ll typically need to trim the inner plastic of your fender wells, especially behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires.
Put the machine on jack stands, remove the springs from your shocks, and cycle the suspension through its full range of motion to identify all potential rubbing points. It’s better to trim a little extra than to have a tire catch and rip off a fender on the trail.
Choosing Your Weapon: The Best Tires and Wheels for the Job
Now for the fun part! The market is flooded with options, but not all tires are created equal. Your choice should be based on your primary riding terrain.
Tire Selection: Mud vs. All-Terrain
For deep mud, you’ll want an aggressive, self-cleaning tread pattern. Tires like the System 3 XTR370 or the BKT TR 171 are legendary for their mud-slinging capabilities. They are heavy, however, and can be rough on hardpack trails.
If you ride a mix of trails, rocks, and occasional mud, a rugged all-terrain might be better. Look for something with strong sidewalls and a slightly less aggressive, tighter tread pattern for a smoother ride and better all-around performance.
Wheel Offset and Backspacing Explained
Your wheel choice is just as important. A wheel with a 5+2 or 4+3 offset is common for these builds. This pushes the wheel further out from the hub, giving you a wider, more stable stance and preventing the inside of the tire from rubbing on suspension components.
Be aware that a wider offset puts more leverage and stress on your wheel bearings and ball joints, so be prepared for more frequent maintenance.
Long-Term Love: Your Can Am Renegade on 33s Care Guide
Your work isn’t done after the install. A modified machine requires more attention. This can am renegade on 33s care guide will help you protect your investment.
Pre-Ride and Post-Ride Inspection Checklist
Make this a habit. Before every ride, and after every hard ride, take 10 minutes to check these key areas:
- Axle Boots: Look for any rips or tears. A torn boot lets dirt in and grease out, destroying the CV joint quickly.
- Ball Joints & Tie Rods: Jack up the front end and check for any play in the wheels.
- Lug Nut Torque: Ensure they are tightened to factory spec.
- Fluid Levels: Check engine oil, coolant, and diff fluids.
Drivetrain Maintenance Best Practices
With the added stress, you need to be more diligent. Change your front and rear differential fluid more often than the manual suggests, especially if you ride in a lot of water. Regularly remove your CVT cover to inspect your belt for glazing or fraying and blow out any dust.
A Note on Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Riding
Running big tires comes with a responsibility to the trails we love. One of the best sustainable can am renegade on 33s practices is to ride smart. The goal is to use your machine’s capability to navigate tough terrain, not to destroy it.
Follow Tread Lightly! principles. Avoid spinning your tires excessively, which causes trail erosion. Stay on designated trails and don’t create new, illegal bypasses around obstacles. When performing maintenance, use a drain pan for all fluids and dispose of them properly at an auto parts store or local recycling center. Being an eco-friendly can am renegade on 33s owner means leaving the environment better than you found it.
Frequently Asked Questions About Running a Can Am Renegade on 33s
Do I absolutely need a clutch kit for 33s?
Yes. 100%. Without it, you will burn through belts, lose significant performance, and put unnecessary strain on your entire engine and transmission. It’s the most important supporting modification you can make.
Can I run 33s with just a bracket lift?
You can, and many people do. However, you must be prepared for the consequences. You will go through axles, ball joints, and bushings much faster than someone with a portal lift that corrects the suspension geometry. It’s the budget route, but it comes with higher long-term maintenance costs.
How much power will I lose with 33-inch tires?
Initially, you will lose a significant amount of “seat of the pants” acceleration. It will feel sluggish. A properly installed and tuned clutch kit is designed to recover most of that lost performance, especially on the low end where you need it most.
Will running 33s void my Can-Am warranty?
Almost certainly. If you have a drivetrain failure (differential, transmission, axles, etc.) and your dealer sees a lift kit and 33-inch tires, they have every right to deny the warranty claim. Any modifications are done at your own risk.
Building a Can Am Renegade on 33s is a serious but incredibly rewarding project. It’s more than just an upgrade; it’s a transformation that turns a great machine into an unstoppable force. The key is to build it smart. Invest in the supporting mods—especially the clutch kit—and be diligent with your maintenance.
Plan your build, double-check your work, and respect the trails. Now get out there and conquer them. We’ll see you out there!
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