Ever get that heart-stopping feeling on the trail? The front end of your Renegade suddenly feels vague, wanders in the ruts, or worse, develops a violent shake. You’ve probably felt it, and like most of us, you know that sloppy steering is more than just an annoyance—it’s a major safety hazard.
I promise this guide will cut through the noise and give you the confidence to tackle this common issue head-on. We’re here to solve that problem for good, turning you from a worried rider into a knowledgeable DIY mechanic.
In this comprehensive post, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about your can am renegade tie rod end. We’ll cover how to spot a failing part, the massive benefits of an upgrade, a full step-by-step replacement guide, and the pro tips that make the job a success.
What Exactly is a Can Am Renegade Tie Rod End (And Why It’s Critical)
Think of your tie rod ends as the critical link between your steering commands and your wheels. They are the small but mighty joints that connect your steering rack to the steering knuckles where your wheels are mounted.
When you turn the handlebars, the steering rack pushes or pulls a long shaft called the tie rod. The tie rod end is the flexible pivot point at the very end of that shaft, allowing the wheel to turn left and right while also moving up and down with the suspension.
On a beast like the Renegade, these parts take a beating from rocks, mud, water, and jumps. The factory parts are decent, but for aggressive off-roading, they are often the first weak link in the steering system.
Telltale Signs: How to Spot a Failing Tie Rod End
Ignoring a bad tie rod end is asking for trouble. It can lead to a total loss of steering control. Luckily, your Renegade will usually give you plenty of warning signs. Being aware of these common problems with can am renegade tie rod end is the first step to staying safe.
Keep an eye (and ear) out for these symptoms:
- Sloppy Steering: A feeling of excessive “play” or looseness in the handlebars. The machine might wander on straightaways.
- Clunking or Popping Noises: You’ll often hear a distinct clunk or pop from the front end when turning, especially at low speeds.
- Uneven Tire Wear: A failing tie rod end will throw your alignment out of whack, causing the inside or outside edge of your front tires to wear down much faster than the rest.
- Steering Wheel Vibration: While other issues can cause this, worn tie rod ends can create a noticeable vibration or shimmy that you feel through the bars.
- The Dreaded “Death Wobble”: In severe cases, a worn component can cause a violent, uncontrolled shaking of the front wheels, usually triggered by hitting a bump at speed. This is extremely dangerous.
The “Wiggle Test”: A Quick and Dirty Diagnosis
Think you have a problem? You can confirm it in your garage in about five minutes. This is one of the most important can am renegade tie rod end tips you can learn.
First, secure your ATV on a flat, level surface. Using a reliable jack, lift the front end so both wheels are off the ground and place sturdy jack stands under the frame for safety. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Grab one of the front tires with your hands at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions. Try to wiggle the tire back and forth. If you feel any clunking or see significant play, have a buddy look at the tie rod end while you wiggle it. You’ll likely see the movement right at the joint where the tie rod end connects to the knuckle. That’s your culprit.
The Benefits of Upgrading Your Can Am Renegade Tie Rod End
You could just replace the worn part with another OEM one, but where’s the fun in that? For riders who push their machines, upgrading is one of the smartest investments you can make. The benefits of can am renegade tie rod end upgrades are immediate and significant.
Beyond Stock: Why Aftermarket is Often Better
Top-tier aftermarket brands like SuperATV, Kryptonite, or All Balls Racing build parts designed for the abuse we dish out. Here’s what you gain:
- Massive Strength Increase: Upgraded tie rods are often made from solid billet aluminum or heavy-duty chromoly steel, dwarfing the strength of the hollow factory parts. This is crucial if you run larger, heavier tires.
- Improved Steering Response: Beefier components and tighter-tolerance joints eliminate the flex and play found in stock parts, resulting in a more direct, responsive steering feel.
- Extreme Durability: Aftermarket ends often feature oversized ball studs and boots made from tougher materials, making them far more resistant to wear and tear from mud, sand, and water.
- Serviceability: Many high-end tie rod ends are greasable, featuring zerk fittings that allow you to purge old grease and contaminants, dramatically extending their service life. Some are even rebuildable.
Your Complete Can Am Renegade Tie Rod End Replacement Guide
Alright, let’s get our hands dirty. This section is your complete can am renegade tie rod end guide. While it’s a straightforward job, take your time and follow the steps carefully. Safety first, always.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need
Gathering your tools before you start makes the job go smoothly. You don’t want to be running to the store with your ATV in pieces.
- Floor Jack and Jack Stands
- Lug Wrench or Impact Wrench
- A good set of Metric Sockets and Wrenches (common sizes are 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm)
- Torque Wrench
- Tie Rod End Puller (highly recommended) or a Pickle Fork
- Large Hammer (often called a BFH – Big Friendly Hammer)
- Pliers or Side Cutters (for the cotter pin)
- Tape Measure
- Penetrating Oil (like PB B’laster or Kroil)
- Shop Towels
- Your new Tie Rod Ends and new Cotter Pins
Step-by-Step Replacement Process
Here is how to can am renegade tie rod end replacement is done properly. We’ll focus on the outer tie rod end, which is the most common failure point.
- Safety First: Park your Renegade on level concrete or asphalt. Chock the rear wheels to prevent any rolling.
- Get Access: Before jacking, break the lug nuts loose on the wheel you’re starting with. Now, jack up the front end and securely place your jack stands under the frame. Remove the wheel completely.
- Loosen the Jam Nut: The tie rod end is threaded onto the main tie rod shaft and locked in place with a jam nut. Spray it with penetrating oil and let it soak. Using two wrenches (one on the nut, one on the inner rod to prevent it from spinning), break the jam nut loose. Just loosen it a few turns for now.
- Free the Castle Nut: Locate the castle nut on the bottom of the tie rod end stud where it passes through the steering knuckle. Use your pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin. Now you can remove the castle nut.
-
Separate the Joint: This is often the trickiest part. The stud is a tapered fit and can be seized in the knuckle.
- The Professional Way: Use a tie rod end puller. It applies even pressure and pops the stud out safely without damaging other components.
- The “Persuasion” Way: If you don’t have a puller, you can strike the side of the steering knuckle where the stud passes through with a large hammer. The shock and vibration will often break the tapered fit loose. Do not hit the threaded stud itself, as you’ll destroy the threads.
- The Most Important Step: Before you unscrew the old tie rod end, you need a reference for your alignment. Either take your tape measure and measure the distance from the center of the zerk fitting to a fixed point on the inner tie rod, or carefully count the exact number of full rotations it takes to unscrew the old end. Write this number down!
- Install the New End: Thread your new tie rod end onto the shaft. Screw it on the same number of rotations you counted in the previous step. This will get your alignment in the ballpark for a safe trip to the alignment shop.
- Reconnect and Torque: Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle. Install the new castle nut and tighten it to the manufacturer’s specified torque (check your service manual, but it’s often around 35-45 ft-lbs). Continue tightening just enough to line up the slot in the nut with the hole in the stud.
- Secure It: Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs to lock it in place. Never reuse an old cotter pin.
- Lock it Down: Now, tighten the jam nut up against the new tie rod end. Again, use two wrenches to get it nice and snug to prevent it from coming loose.
- Final Assembly: Reinstall your wheel, snug up the lug nuts, and lower the ATV off the jack stands. Once it’s on the ground, use your torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
- GET AN ALIGNMENT: This step is not optional. Your “counting turns” method is only to make the vehicle driveable. A professional alignment is required to ensure proper handling, safety, and to prevent shredding your new tires.
Best Practices for Tie Rod End Longevity and Care
Now that you have fresh, strong tie rod ends, you want them to last. Following this simple can am renegade tie rod end care guide will maximize their lifespan.
Regular Inspections are Key
Make the “wiggle test” part of your pre-ride check. It takes 30 seconds per side and is the best way to catch a problem early. Also, visually inspect the rubber boots for any rips or tears, as this allows dirt and water to destroy the joint from the inside.
The Importance of Grease
If your new tie rod ends have grease fittings (zerks), use them! After every few rides, especially after washing your machine or riding in deep water/mud, pump a few squirts of high-quality marine grease into the fitting until you see the boot just begin to swell. This purges out contaminants and keeps the joint lubricated.
A Note on Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Choices
Being a responsible off-roader extends to our maintenance practices. When considering a sustainable can am renegade tie rod end, think about longevity and waste reduction.
Choosing a high-quality, rebuildable aftermarket part is an inherently eco-friendly can am renegade tie rod end choice. Instead of throwing the entire unit away when it wears out, you can simply replace the internal wear components for a fraction of the cost, creating far less waste over the life of your machine.
Furthermore, please dispose of your old, greasy parts responsibly. Most auto parts stores have recycling programs for used metal parts. Don’t just toss them in the trash.
Frequently Asked Questions About Can Am Renegade Tie Rod Ends
How often should I replace my tie rod ends?
There’s no set mileage or time interval. It completely depends on your riding style and the terrain. The answer is to replace them at the first sign of wear, which you’ll find by doing regular “wiggle test” inspections.
Can I replace just one tie rod end?
Yes, you can. However, it’s generally considered one of the can am renegade tie rod end best practices to replace them in pairs (both outers at the same time). They wear at similar rates, and replacing them together ensures even steering feel and performance.
What’s the difference between inner and outer tie rod ends?
The outer tie rod end connects the tie rod shaft to the steering knuckle at the wheel. The inner tie rod end connects the other end of that shaft to the main steering rack, deep inside a protective boot. Outer ends fail much more frequently due to greater exposure and movement.
Do I really need an alignment after replacement?
Yes. 100%. We can’t stress this enough. Even a tiny error in your “counting turns” method can result in a significant “toe-in” or “toe-out” condition. This will cause dangerous handling characteristics and rapidly destroy your tires.
You’ve done the hard work of replacing the part; let a professional with a laser alignment rack dial it in perfectly. It’s a small price to pay for safety and performance.
Tackling your own maintenance is one of the most rewarding parts of owning a machine like the Can-Am Renegade. By understanding how to diagnose, replace, and care for your tie rod ends, you’ve not only saved money but also gained valuable knowledge about your ride.
Remember to prioritize safety, use the right tools, and never skip that final alignment. Now you’ve got the knowledge. Get that steering dialed in, and hit the trails with the confidence that comes from a job well done. Ride safe out there!
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