Diagnostic Code List For 2013 Polaris Rzr 800S

There’s nothing quite like the sinking feeling of being deep on a trail, miles from the truck, when that dreaded check engine light (CEL) suddenly flashes to life on your 2013 RZR 800 S dashboard. Your fun-filled day screeches to a halt, replaced by a wave of frustration and questions. Is it serious? Can I make it back? How much is this going to cost?

We’ve all been there. That little light is your RZR’s way of telling you something is wrong, but without the right information, it’s as useful as a cryptic message. You desire the confidence to understand exactly what your machine is telling you, to diagnose the problem yourself, and to get back to riding without a hefty bill from the dealership.

Keep reading. This comprehensive guide is your key to unlocking those secrets. We’re about to provide you with the complete diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s, show you exactly how to access it without any special tools, and walk you through what the most common codes actually mean for you and your machine.

Why Understanding Your RZR’s Codes is a Game-Changer

Knowing how to pull and interpret your RZR’s diagnostic codes is one of the most powerful skills a DIY mechanic or off-road enthusiast can have. It’s about more than just turning off a light; it’s about taking control of your machine’s health.

The primary benefits of diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s are empowerment and savings. Instead of immediately loading it onto the trailer for a trip to the shop, you can perform a quick check right on the trail. This initial diagnosis can be the difference between a simple 10-minute fix and a weekend-ruining tow.

Following good diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s best practices also helps you catch small issues before they snowball into catastrophic failures. A recurring sensor code could be an early warning of a wiring problem or a failing component, allowing you to address it proactively during your regular maintenance schedule.

How to Access Diagnostic Codes on Your 2013 RZR 800 S (No Scanner Needed!)

One of the best features of this RZR generation is its built-in diagnostic mode. You don’t need a fancy OBD-II scanner like you would for your truck. This is a simple, straightforward process you can do anywhere.

This section is your guide on how to diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s. Follow these steps carefully:

Park on Level Ground: Ensure your RZR is in Park and on a flat, stable surface. Turn the key to the OFF position.
Press and Hold the Mode/Reverse Override Button: Locate the yellow mode button on your instrument cluster or dash. Press it and hold it down.
Turn the Key: While still holding the mode button, turn the ignition key to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
Wait for the Codes: Continue holding the button. The screen will cycle through its normal display and then enter diagnostic mode. You’ll see “dIAG” or similar, followed by any stored trouble codes.
Read the Codes: The codes will be displayed as a pair of numbers: an SPN (Suspect Parameter Number) and an FMI (Failure Mode Identifier). For example, you might see SPN 651 followed by FMI 3. Write down every code you see.
Cycle Through Codes: Briefly press the mode button to cycle to the next stored code. Once you’ve cycled through all of them, it will repeat the list.
Exit Diagnostic Mode: To exit, simply turn the key to the OFF position.

The SPN tells you what system is having a problem (e.g., injector #1), and the FMI tells you how it’s failing (e.g., voltage too high, open circuit).

The Complete Diagnostic Code List for 2013 Polaris RZR 800s Guide

Here it is—the master list you’ve been looking for. Use this chart to cross-reference the SPN and FMI numbers you pulled from your dash. This is your essential diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s.

Engine Control Module (ECM) Codes

SPN 22, FMI 3, 4: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) – Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 41, FMI 3, 4: 8-Pin Connector, Engine Temp/Charge Air Temp – Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 45, FMI 3, 4: Barometric Pressure Sensor – Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 46, FMI 3, 4: Barometric Pressure Sensor – Pre-set Baro, Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 51, FMI 3, 4: Fuel Injector #1 (PTO Side) – Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 52, FMI 3, 4: Fuel Injector #2 (MAG Side) – Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 26, FMI 3, 4: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor – Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 27, FMI 3, 4: T-MAP (Air Temp) Sensor – Voltage Too High / Too Low.
SPN 651, FMI 3, 5: Injector 1 (PTO) Circuit – Open Circuit / Voltage High.
SPN 652, FMI 3, 5: Injector 2 (MAG) Circuit – Open Circuit / Voltage High.
SPN 110, FMI 0, 16: Engine Coolant Temp – Over Temperature / Severely Over Temperature.
SPN 190, FMI 2: Engine Speed Sensor – No Signal.
SPN 520207, FMI 7: All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Control Circuit – Mechanical System Not Responding.
SPN 520230, FMI 3, 4: Park Brake Switch Circuit – Voltage High / Low.
SPN 520232, FMI 3, 4: Brake Switch Circuit – Voltage High / Low.

Note: This list covers the most common codes. Some specific sub-models may have additional unique codes. Always consult your service manual if you’re unsure.

Deep Dive: Troubleshooting Common RZR 800 S Fault Codes

Seeing a code is one thing; fixing it is another. Let’s tackle some of the common problems with diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s that we see most often here at FatBoysOffroad.

SPN 22 (TPS): The Usual Suspect

The Throttle Position Sensor tells the ECU how far you’re pressing the gas pedal. When it fails, you’ll experience poor idling, engine bogging, or a delayed throttle response.

What to Check First: The wiring harness going to the TPS. It’s in a vulnerable spot and can get rubbed, pinched, or corroded. Unplug it, check for bent pins or green corrosion, and apply some dielectric grease before reconnecting.
The Fix: Often, the “pedal relearn” procedure can fix this. Turn the key on (don’t start), slowly press the gas pedal all the way to the floor, then slowly release it. Repeat three times. Turn the key off. If the code persists, you may need a new TPS.

SPN 651 / 652 (Injectors): Fueling Frustrations

These codes point to a problem with the electrical circuit for one of your fuel injectors. This will cause a misfire, rough running, or even a no-start condition on one cylinder.

What to Check First: Again, check the wiring. The injector harnesses run over the engine and are prone to heat damage and chafing. Carefully inspect the entire length of the wire for any breaks or bare spots.
The Fix: A simple “noid” light can test if the injector is getting a pulse from the ECU. If it is, the injector itself might be clogged or failed. If not, the problem is in the wiring between the ECU and the injector.

SPN 110 (ECT): Critical Overheating Alarms

This code means the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is reading dangerously high. Do not ignore this code. Continued running can cause severe engine damage.

What to Check First: Immediately check your coolant level in the radiator (when cool!) and the overflow bottle. Look for obvious leaks. Check that your radiator fan is turning on.
The Fix: If coolant is full and the fan works, the sensor or its wiring could be the culprit. The sensor is located on the engine head. Check for a secure connection. A failed sensor can trick the ECU into thinking the engine is overheating when it’s not, or vice-versa.

Pro Tips and Best Practices for RZR Diagnostics

Here are a few more diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s tips from our shop to yours. Following this advice will save you time, money, and headaches.

Start with the Simple Stuff First

Before you start ordering expensive sensors, check the basics. A low or weak battery can cause a cascade of bizarre, unrelated error codes. Ensure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Check your main fuses. A solid electrical foundation is key.

The “Wiggle Test” is Your Best Friend

For intermittent electrical gremlins, the wiggle test is a classic. With the RZR running, gently wiggle sections of the wiring harness related to the code you’re chasing. If the engine stumbles or the CEL flickers, you’ve found the area with the short or open circuit.

Invest in a Quality Multimeter

A good digital multimeter is the most valuable tool for electrical diagnosis. It allows you to test for voltage, check for continuity in wires, and measure the resistance of sensors to see if they are within spec according to your service manual. Don’t leave home without one.

Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Troubleshooting

A proper diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s care guide involves more than just swapping parts. A truly sustainable diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s approach is to diagnose correctly the first time. Throwing parts at a problem is wasteful and often doesn’t fix the root cause. Using this guide to pinpoint the exact issue—like a chafed wire instead of a bad sensor—is an eco-friendly diagnostic code list for 2013 polaris rzr 800s practice. It saves resources, prevents unnecessary waste, and gets you back on the trail with a reliable repair.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 2013 RZR 800 S Diagnostic Codes

How do I clear the codes on my RZR 800?

Once you have fixed the underlying problem, the active code will typically clear itself after a few successful run cycles where the ECU no longer detects the fault. You can also disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes to clear stored codes, but this will also reset other learned parameters.

Can a bad battery cause false error codes on a RZR?

Absolutely. Low system voltage is a major cause of “ghost” codes. The sensors on your RZR operate on specific voltage ranges, and a weak battery or poor connection can cause them to send faulty readings to the ECU, triggering codes that aren’t related to a real component failure.

What basic tools do I need to troubleshoot these codes?

At a minimum, you should have a basic socket and wrench set, a set of pliers, a good digital multimeter, some zip ties, electrical tape, and a can of dielectric grease. A set of trim removal tools can also be helpful for accessing tight wiring harnesses without breaking plastic clips.

The code went away, but the RZR still runs poorly. What now?

This could mean you have an intermittent electrical issue that the ECU hasn’t detected again yet, or the problem may not be electrical at all. A recurring performance issue without a code could point to a mechanical problem like a clogged fuel filter, a weak fuel pump, or a dirty air filter.

Armed with this guide, that check engine light is no longer an intimidating mystery. It’s a starting point—a clue that empowers you to take charge of your machine’s maintenance. By understanding what your RZR is telling you, you can make informed decisions, perform your own repairs, and save your hard-earned money for what really matters: fuel, tires, and more time on the trail.

Now you have the knowledge to diagnose with confidence. Stay safe, wrench smart, and we’ll see you out there!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.