You probably love the aggressive, rhythmic lope of a high-performance engine at a stoplight. It is the signature sound of a machine built for speed and raw power.
Learning how to cammed a car is one of the most effective ways to transform your vehicle’s personality and performance. We promise to guide you through the technical nuances and mechanical steps required to execute this upgrade safely.
In this guide, we will preview the essential tools, the selection process for parts, and the step-by-step installation flow. Whether you are a DIYer or a dedicated off-roader, this breakdown ensures your project is a success.
Understanding the Basics of a Camshaft Upgrade
Before you pick up a wrench, you must understand what the camshaft actually does inside your engine. It is often called the brain of the engine because it controls the timing of the valves.
The camshaft features lobes that push against valves to let air in and exhaust out. By changing the shape of these lobes, you change how long the valves stay open and how deep they open.
When enthusiasts discuss how to cammed a car, they are usually looking for more lift and duration. This allows more air into the combustion chamber, which creates more power at higher RPMs.
However, a larger cam often sacrifices low-end torque and smooth idling for that high-end “gallop.” You must decide if you want a street-friendly cruiser or a dedicated track beast.
Modern engines use either Over Head Cam (OHC) or Pushrod (OHV) designs. The installation process varies significantly between these two, so identify your engine type before ordering parts.
how to cammed a car: Preparing Your Workspace and Vehicle
Preparation is the difference between a weekend project and a month-long headache. You need a clean, well-lit area where you can organize parts as they come off the engine.
Start by cleaning your engine bay to prevent dirt from falling into the internal components. Use a heavy-duty degreaser and a pressure washer, but be careful around electrical connectors.
Drain all fluids, including the coolant and engine oil, into approved containers. This prevents a mess when you start removing the radiator or timing cover.
Disconnect the battery and remove the hood if it gives you better access to the front of the engine. Having clear visibility is vital when you are aligning timing marks.
Organize a table with labeled bins for bolts, brackets, and sensors. This simple step ensures you don’t have “extra” parts left over when the job is finished.
Essential Tools for the Camshaft Swap
You cannot finish this job with a basic socket set alone. Specialized tools are required to ensure the engine remains timed perfectly and the new parts aren’t damaged.
- Torque Wrench: This is non-negotiable for tightening head bolts and cam gear bolts to factory specs.
- Harmonic Balancer Puller: You will need this to remove the crank pulley without damaging the snout.
- Valve Spring Compressor: Essential if you are upgrading springs to match your new high-lift cam.
- Degree Wheel: Used by pros to “degree the cam,” ensuring the valve timing matches the spec card exactly.
- Assembly Lube: A high-pressure lubricant that protects the cam lobes during the first few seconds of startup.
If you are working on a pushrod engine, a magnetic lifter tool is incredibly helpful. It prevents lifters from falling into the oil pan when you slide the old cam out.
For OHC engines, you may need specific camshaft holding tools. These keep the cams from spinning under spring pressure while the timing belt or chain is off.
Don’t forget a quality gasket scraper and brake cleaner. Getting a perfect seal on the timing cover and valve covers prevents annoying oil leaks later.
Choosing the Right Camshaft Specs
The “biggest” cam is rarely the best cam for a daily driver or an off-road rig. You need to look at three main numbers: Lift, Duration, and LSA.
Lift refers to how far the valve opens. More lift means more air, but too much can cause the valves to hit the pistons.
Duration is how long the valve stays open. Longer duration moves the power band higher in the RPM range, which is great for racing but bad for towing.
LSA (Lobe Separation Angle) affects the “idle quality.” A tighter LSA (like 106 or 110) creates that choppy sound but reduces vacuum for power brakes.
If you are wondering how to cammed a car for off-road use, look for a “truck cam.” These are designed to increase low-end torque for crawling over obstacles.
Consult with the manufacturer’s tech line before buying. Tell them your gear ratio, torque converter stall speed, and intended use to get a perfect match.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Now we get into the heavy lifting of the project. Follow these steps carefully, and never force a component if it feels stuck.
Step 1: Disassemble the Front End
Remove the radiator, cooling fans, and the accessory drive belt. You need a clear path to the front of the engine block to slide the long camshaft out.
When people ask how to cammed a car, they often forget the labor involved in just getting to the cam. Remove the water pump and the harmonic balancer next.
Once the timing cover is off, rotate the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC). Ensure the timing marks on the crank and cam gears align perfectly.
Step 2: Accessing the Valvetrain
Remove the valve covers and the rocker arms. If you have a pushrod engine, pull the pushrods out and keep them in order using a piece of cardboard with numbered holes.
If your engine uses flat-tappet lifters, you must replace them with the cam. Roller lifters can often be reused if they show no signs of wear or “pitting.”
For OHC engines, you will likely be removing the cam towers or the entire assembly. Be extremely careful not to scratch the bearing journals.
Step 3: Removing and Installing the Cam
Carefully unbolt the cam gear and slide the old camshaft out. Use a long bolt threaded into the front of the cam as a handle to maintain control.
Liberally coat the new camshaft lobes and journals with assembly lube. Do not use standard engine oil, as it will run off before the engine starts.
Slide the new cam in slowly. Be gentle as the journals pass through the cam bearings to avoid “nicking” the soft bearing material.
Step 4: Setting the Timing
Reinstall the timing set (gears and chain/belt). Ensure the “dots” or marks are aligned exactly as they were during disassembly.
Rotate the engine by hand (using a breaker bar on the crank bolt) for two full revolutions. If you feel any mechanical resistance, stop immediately; your timing is off.
This is the stage where experts use a degree wheel to verify the cam’s position. For most “drop-in” street cams, following the factory timing marks is sufficient.
Supporting Modifications You Cannot Ignore
Installing a performance cam without supporting mods is a recipe for engine failure. The stock components were not designed for the increased stress of a high-lift cam.
Valve Springs: A bigger cam will likely “coil bind” stock springs. Upgrade to dual or beehive springs that can handle the extra lift without breaking.
Pushrods: Higher spring pressures can cause stock pushrods to flex. Chromoly pushrods provide the rigidity needed for high-RPM stability.
Fuel Injectors: More air requires more fuel. If your cam is aggressive, your stock injectors might “max out,” leading to a dangerous lean condition.
Tuning: This is the most critical step. Modern fuel-injected cars will not run correctly with a large cam unless the ECU is recalibrated.
A professional tuner will adjust the idle speed, fueling maps, and spark timing. This ensures the car stays running at stoplights and makes maximum power.
Safety and Common Pitfalls
Working on the “internals” of an engine carries risks. The biggest danger is piston-to-valve interference, which can destroy your engine in seconds.
Always double-check your timing marks. If you are unsure, walk away, take a break, and look at the service manual again with fresh eyes.
Be wary of “budget” camshafts from unknown online sellers. A camshaft is a precision-ground component; “cheap” metal can go flat and send metal shavings through your oiling system.
If you are working on a vehicle with VVT (Variable Valve Timing), the process is much more complex. You may need “phaser limiters” to prevent the valves from hitting the pistons during cam phasing.
Always wear eye protection when working with valve springs. They are under hundreds of pounds of pressure and can cause serious injury if they fly off the compressor.
Break-In Procedure for New Cams
The first 20 minutes of an engine’s life with a new cam are the most important. This is when the cam and lifters “mate” to each other.
For flat-tappet cams, you must run the engine at 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 minutes straight. Do not let it idle, as idling doesn’t provide enough splash lubrication.
Use a high-zinc break-in oil. Zinc (ZDDP) acts as a sacrificial layer of protection while the metal surfaces smooth each other out.
Roller cams are much more forgiving and don’t require a specific RPM break-in. However, you should still change the oil after the first 50 miles to remove any assembly lube or debris.
Check for leaks constantly during the first heat cycle. A small drip from the timing cover can quickly become a massive mess once the oil thins out.
Frequently Asked Questions About how to cammed a car
Will a cam swap void my warranty?
In almost every case, yes. Modifying the internal components of the engine is considered a major change that manufacturers will not cover if a failure occurs.
Can I cam my car without a tune?
If the cam is very small (“Stage 1”), the car might run, but it will be inefficient. For any noticeable performance cam, a custom tune is mandatory for safety and drivability.
How much horsepower does a cam add?
Depending on the engine and the cam profile, you can expect gains between 30 and 100 horsepower. Supporting mods like headers and intake manifolds help maximize these gains.
What is the “choppy” sound actually?
That sound is called overlap. It happens when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, causing exhaust gases to rush back into the intake manifold at low RPMs.
Is a cam swap a good DIY project?
It is an advanced DIY project. If you have successfully changed a timing belt or a cylinder head, you can likely handle how to cammed a car with the right tools.
Conclusion: Success is in the Details
Mastering the process of how to cammed a car is an incredibly rewarding experience for any gearhead. It takes your vehicle from a standard commuter to a personalized performance machine.
Remember that the key to a long-lasting engine is cleanliness and precision. Take your time with the timing marks, never skip the supporting mods, and always prioritize a professional tune.
Once you turn that key and hear the first rhythmic thumps of your new camshaft, all the hard work will be worth it. You’ve successfully upgraded the heart of your ride.
Stay safe, double-check your torque specs, and enjoy the new power on the road or the trail!
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