Ever felt that undeniable urge to lay down some rubber and leave your mark, but you’re behind the wheel of an all-wheel-drive automatic car? You’re not alone. Many enthusiasts believe burnouts are reserved for rear-wheel-drive manuals, but with the right knowledge and precautions, you can learn how to do a burnout in an awd automatic car.
At FatBoysOffroad, we understand the desire to push your vehicle’s limits. We also prioritize safety and vehicle longevity above all else. This guide will walk you through the precise steps, necessary preparations, and critical safety measures to perform a controlled burnout in your AWD automatic, minimizing risk to yourself, others, and your prized possession.
By the end of this article, you’ll understand the mechanics involved, what to watch out for, and how to execute this maneuver responsibly. Let’s get those tires spinning!
Understanding Your AWD System and Automatic Transmission
Before you even think about smoking your tires, it’s crucial to understand how your all-wheel-drive system and automatic transmission work together. AWD vehicles distribute power to all four wheels, which is great for traction but complicates a traditional burnout.
Most AWD systems are designed to maximize grip, not break it. This means your car’s computer will actively try to prevent wheel spin, making a burnout a battle against its inherent programming.
Types of AWD Systems and Their Impact
Not all AWD systems are created equal. You’ll typically encounter a few main types:
- Full-Time AWD: Power is continuously sent to all four wheels. These systems are often the most difficult for burnouts without specialized modifications.
- Part-Time AWD: Usually found in trucks and older SUVs, these allow you to select 2WD, 4WD High, or 4WD Low. In 2WD mode, a burnout is much more feasible.
- On-Demand/Automatic AWD: Many modern cars and crossovers use this. They primarily operate in 2WD (usually front-wheel drive) until slip is detected, then engage the other axle. This is where things get tricky for burnouts.
Knowing your vehicle’s specific AWD type is the first step in determining your approach. Check your owner’s manual for details.
Automatic Transmission Considerations
Automatic transmissions manage gear changes for you, which is convenient but removes some control. Unlike a manual where you can dump the clutch, an automatic requires a different technique to build power while holding the vehicle stationary.
The “brake stand” or “power braking” technique is central to performing a burnout in an automatic car. This involves simultaneously applying the brake and throttle to build engine RPMs.
Safety First: Essential Precautions and Preparations
Performing a burnout is inherently hard on your vehicle and can be dangerous if not done correctly. Safety is paramount.
Always prioritize a controlled environment and proper vehicle preparation. This isn’t something to try on a public road or near people.
Choosing the Right Location
The location is critical for a safe burnout. You need a large, open, private area away from traffic, pedestrians, and obstacles.
- Avoid Public Roads: Burnouts are illegal and incredibly dangerous on public roads.
- Seek Private Property: A large, empty parking lot (with owner permission), a dedicated drag strip, or an abandoned industrial lot are suitable.
- Ensure Ample Space: You need plenty of room in case you lose control or the car lurches unexpectedly.
A controlled environment minimizes the risk of accidents and legal trouble.
Vehicle Pre-Checks and Preparation
Your car needs to be in good working order to handle the stress of a burnout. This is not the time to discover a worn brake pad or low fluid.
- Tires: Use old, worn tires if possible. Burnouts destroy tires quickly. Never use new or good tires you intend to keep. Ensure they are properly inflated (though slightly lower pressure can sometimes help generate smoke).
- Brakes: Your brake system needs to be in top condition. You’ll be using the brakes heavily, so check brake fluid levels and pad wear.
- Fluids: Ensure all fluid levels (engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant) are at their proper marks. Burnouts generate significant heat.
- Traction Control/Stability Control: This is perhaps the most important step for an AWD car. You must disable traction control (TC) and stability control (ESC) systems. Consult your owner’s manual for how to do this. These systems will actively fight your attempts to spin the wheels.
- Engine Warm-Up: Allow your engine to reach operating temperature. Never attempt a burnout on a cold engine.
Failing to prepare your vehicle adequately can lead to costly damage or a dangerous situation.
Personal Safety Gear
While not strictly necessary for a casual burnout, if you’re serious about performance driving, consider:
- Gloves: To protect your hands from a hot steering wheel or in case of a mishap.
- Eye Protection: If you’re near the tires, debris can fly.
Always wear closed-toe shoes with good grip. Avoid loose clothing that could interfere with pedals.
The Step-by-Step Guide: How to Do a Burnout in an AWD Automatic Car
This is where we get into the nitty-gritty. Remember, practice makes perfect, but always prioritize safety.
The goal is to overpower the front brakes while sending enough power to the rear wheels to break traction, all while the AWD system tries to intervene.
Disabling Electronic Nannies
As mentioned, this is critical. Find the buttons for Traction Control (TC) and Electronic Stability Control (ESC), often labeled with a car icon and wavy lines, or simply “TRAC OFF” and “VSC OFF”.
Press and hold these buttons until the corresponding warning lights illuminate on your dash, indicating they are fully disabled. Some vehicles require multiple presses or a longer hold. If you can’t fully disable them, your car might be too stubborn for a proper burnout.
Positioning Your Vehicle
Once the electronic aids are off, position your car. Drive slowly into your chosen safe area.
Ensure you have a clear, straight path ahead of you with no obstacles. Point your car in a direction where any unexpected movement will not lead to a collision.
The Brake Stand Technique for AWD
This is the core technique for an automatic AWD car. It requires finesse and coordination.
- Foot Placement: Place your left foot firmly on the brake pedal and your right foot on the accelerator.
- Apply Brakes: Press the brake pedal down firmly with your left foot. You want to apply enough pressure to hold the car stationary, but not so much that you completely lock up the front wheels. This is a balancing act.
- Apply Throttle: With the brakes firmly applied, slowly start to press the accelerator with your right foot. You’ll feel the engine RPMs rise.
- Listen and Feel: As you increase throttle, you’re trying to build enough power to overcome the rear wheel’s traction while the front brakes are holding the car. If your AWD system is primarily FWD-biased, you might feel the front wheels trying to spin first.
- The Breakaway: Gradually increase the throttle until you feel and hear the rear tires begin to spin and lose traction. You might see smoke start to appear from the rear wheel wells.
- Maintain and Control: Once the rear tires are spinning, you’ll need to modulate both the brake and throttle to maintain the burnout. Too much brake, and the engine will bog down; too little, and the car will lurch forward. Too much throttle, and the engine might hit the rev limiter or the front wheels might start to spin, ending the burnout.
- Duration: Keep the burnout brief. A few seconds is usually enough to achieve the desired effect. Prolonged burnouts cause excessive heat and wear.
- Release: To end the burnout, slowly release the accelerator first, then gradually ease off the brake pedal. Allow the car to roll forward gently.
This technique puts significant stress on your brakes, transmission, and drivetrain. Be mindful of the limits of your vehicle.
Common Challenges and Troubleshooting for AWD Burnouts
AWD cars are designed for traction, making burnouts challenging. You might encounter some common issues.
Don’t get discouraged if your first attempt doesn’t result in a cloud of smoke. It takes practice and understanding your specific vehicle.
Car Lurches Forward or Bogs Down
If your car wants to move forward immediately, you’re likely not applying enough brake pressure. If the engine just bogs down, you might be applying too much brake, or not enough throttle.
Experiment with the balance between brake and throttle. It’s a delicate dance to find the sweet spot where the engine can build enough power to spin the rear wheels against the resistance of the front brakes.
No Wheel Spin from Rear Tires
This is common in AWD vehicles. Several factors could be at play:
- AWD System Engagement: Your AWD system might be too aggressive in sending power to the front wheels, or simply preventing any significant slip.
- Traction Control Still Active: Double-check that all electronic nannies are fully disabled. Some vehicles have multiple layers of stability control.
- Insufficient Power: Your car might not have enough horsepower and torque to overcome the traction of all four wheels simultaneously, especially if the AWD system is actively distributing power to maintain grip.
- Surface Grip: A very grippy surface will make it harder to break traction. A slightly damp or gravelly surface can sometimes help, but be cautious as it also reduces control.
If you consistently cannot get the rear wheels to spin, your car might simply be too optimized for traction, or you may need more power.
Overheating and Drivetrain Stress
Burnouts generate immense heat in your transmission, differential, and engine. The friction also puts extreme stress on your tires and brake components.
Keep burnouts very short. If you smell burning rubber, hot oil, or see excessive smoke from under the hood (not just the tires), stop immediately. Allow your car to cool down completely before attempting anything else.
Post-Burnout Inspection and Maintenance
After you’ve successfully laid down some rubber, a quick inspection is a good idea to ensure everything is still in order.
Neglecting post-burnout checks can lead to unexpected issues down the road.
Tire Check
Inspect the tires you were spinning. Look for excessive wear, cords showing, or any damage from debris.
Even if you used old tires, they can still degrade quickly. Replace them if they are compromised.
Fluid Level Check
After the engine and transmission have cooled, check your engine oil and transmission fluid levels.
Also, check your brake fluid. If you notice any leaks or significant drops, investigate immediately.
Listen for Unusual Noises
As you drive away, pay attention to any new or unusual noises coming from the drivetrain, transmission, or brakes.
Clunks, grinding, or squealing could indicate a problem that needs professional attention. If you’re unsure, consult a trusted mechanic at FatBoysOffroad.
Frequently Asked Questions About How to Do a Burnout in an AWD Automatic Car
Is doing a burnout bad for my AWD automatic car?
Yes, burnouts are inherently hard on any vehicle, especially an AWD automatic. They put extreme stress on your engine, transmission, differentials, axles, brakes, and tires. Prolonged or frequent burnouts can significantly reduce the lifespan of these components and lead to costly repairs.
Can all AWD automatic cars do burnouts?
No, not all. Cars with less powerful engines, very sophisticated and non-defeatable traction/stability control systems, or those with highly front-biased AWD systems may struggle or be unable to perform a true burnout. It largely depends on the specific vehicle’s power, drivetrain design, and electronic intervention levels.
What is a “line lock” and can I use it on my AWD automatic?
A line lock is a device that allows you to lock the front brakes independently while leaving the rear wheels free. This is primarily used on RWD vehicles for drag racing to heat up the rear tires. While technically possible to install on some AWD vehicles, it’s generally not practical or necessary for a casual burnout in an AWD automatic, and may not even work as intended given the AWD system’s power distribution.
Will doing a burnout void my car’s warranty?
Potentially, yes. Most manufacturers consider aggressive driving, racing, or stunts like burnouts to be misuse or abuse of the vehicle. If a component fails and the damage can be attributed to such activities, your warranty claim could be denied. Exercise caution if your vehicle is still under warranty.
What if my AWD car just spins all four wheels?
If all four wheels are spinning simultaneously, it means your AWD system is effectively distributing power to all axles and you’re breaking traction on all tires. While technically a “four-wheel burnout,” it’s not the traditional two-wheel burnout often desired, and it will wear out all four tires rapidly. It also means your brake stand technique isn’t effectively holding the front wheels enough to isolate the rear.
Unleash with Caution, Drive with Respect
Learning how to do a burnout in an awd automatic car is a testament to understanding your vehicle’s capabilities and limitations. While it can be a thrilling experience, it’s one that demands respect for your machine and strict adherence to safety protocols.
Remember that every burnout puts stress on your vehicle’s components. Keep them short, infrequent, and always perform them in a controlled, safe environment. If you’re ever unsure about your vehicle’s condition or the proper technique, don’t hesitate to consult a professional mechanic or experienced enthusiast.
At FatBoysOffroad, we encourage you to explore the limits of your vehicle responsibly. Stay safe, have fun, and keep those tires (responsibly) spinning!
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