Setting up camp in a massive motorhome is a dream, but navigating tight mountain roads or narrow city streets in that same rig is a nightmare. Most experienced travelers agree that having a smaller vehicle for errands and sightseeing makes the lifestyle much more enjoyable.
I promise that by the end of this guide, you will understand exactly which towing method fits your vehicle and how to set it up correctly. Learning how to pull a car behind an rv is a game-changer for your mobility and overall travel flexibility.
We will preview the three main towing methods, dive into the essential safety hardware you need, and discuss the critical transmission requirements for your specific car. Whether you are a weekend warrior or a full-time nomad, these steps will keep your “toad” safe on the road.
Understanding the Three Main Towing Methods
Before you hook up and head out, you need to decide which method of transportation suits your vehicle’s mechanical design. Not every car can be towed the same way, and choosing the wrong method can lead to catastrophic transmission failure.
When you research how to pull a car behind an rv, you will generally find three options: flat towing, using a tow dolly, or using a flatbed trailer. Each has its own set of pros and cons depending on your budget and your vehicle’s drivetrain.
Flat Towing (Four-Down Towing)
Flat towing, often called “dinghy towing,” involves pulling the car with all four wheels on the pavement. This is the most popular method for experienced RVers because it is the fastest to hook and unhook once you reach your destination.
However, not all vehicles are flat-towable. Many modern automatic transmissions do not receive proper lubrication unless the engine is running, which can burn out the internals within miles. Jeeps and many 4WD trucks with a neutral transfer case are the gold standard for this method.
Using a Tow Dolly
A tow dolly is a small two-wheeled trailer that lifts the front wheels of your car off the ground. This is an excellent solution for front-wheel-drive vehicles, as it prevents the transmission from spinning while the car moves.
The downside is that you have an extra piece of equipment to store at your campsite. Dollies can also be a bit cumbersome to maneuver by hand, and they require their own maintenance schedule for tires and bearings.
Using a Car Hauler or Trailer
If you own an all-wheel-drive vehicle or a high-end luxury car that cannot be flat-towed, a full trailer is your best bet. This keeps all four wheels off the ground, preventing any wear and tear on the car’s drivetrain or suspension.
Trailers offer the most protection but add significant weight to your setup. You must ensure your RV has the towing capacity to handle both the trailer and the vehicle combined.
Mastering How to Pull a Car Behind an RV with the Right Equipment
Once you have selected your method, you need the right hardware to bridge the gap between the motorhome and your car. Safety is the priority here, as a disconnected vehicle on the highway is a recipe for disaster.
High-quality components are worth the investment. Cheap hardware tends to rattle, wear out quickly, and can even fail under the stress of emergency braking or sharp turns.
The Tow Bar and Base Plate
For flat towing, the tow bar is the primary connection. It attaches to a base plate, which is a custom-engineered steel bracket bolted directly to the chassis of your towed vehicle. Unlike a standard hitch, the base plate is often hidden behind the car’s grill or bumper.
Ensure your tow bar is rated for the weight of your car. Most standard tow bars are rated for 5,000 to 10,000 pounds, which is plenty for most sedans and mid-sized SUVs. Always use safety cables as a secondary backup in case the primary hitch fails.
Supplemental Braking Systems
In almost every state, the law requires a supplemental braking system for towed vehicles over a certain weight. This system pushes the brake pedal in your car whenever you hit the brakes in the RV, helping the entire setup stop in a straight line.
Portable systems like the “Brake-in-a-Box” are easy to move between cars, while permanent systems are hidden under the seat or dashboard. These systems also include a breakaway switch, which slams on the car’s brakes if it ever becomes detached from the RV.
Wiring and Lighting Solutions
Your car’s taillights must mimic the RV’s lights for signals and braking. You can use magnetic towing lights that sit on the roof, or you can install a diode kit that taps into the car’s existing light housing.
Diode kits are much cleaner and more professional, as they allow you to use the car’s factory lights without running wires over the exterior every time you tow. This ensures motorists behind you can clearly see your intentions.
Checking Drivetrain Compatibility and Lubrication
This is the most technical part of the process. Before you even buy a tow bar, you must consult your owner’s manual under the section “Recreational Towing.” If the manual says “Not Recommended,” believe it.
Some vehicles require specific steps to be tow-ready, such as leaving the ignition in the “ACC” position to unlock the steering column. Others might require you to pull specific fuses to prevent the battery from draining while the car is in transit.
Manual vs. Automatic Transmissions
Generally, older manual transmission cars are easier to flat tow. However, many newer manuals use pumps that require the engine to run. Never assume a manual is safe to tow without verifying it first.
For automatics, the issue is the transmission fluid pump. If the pump is driven by the input shaft (engine side), it won’t spin while being towed. Some owners install an aftermarket lube pump to solve this, but it adds complexity to the DIY setup.
Transfer Case Requirements for 4WD
Off-roaders love pulling Jeeps because most have a manual transfer case with a true neutral position. When the transfer case is in neutral, the wheels are completely disconnected from the transmission and engine.
This is the ideal scenario for flat towing. If you have an electronic transfer case, ensure it has a neutral button or specific sequence to disengage the drivetrain before you start your trip.
Step-by-Step Hookup Procedure for Success
Consistency is key when hooking up. I recommend creating a physical checklist that you keep in your glovebox. Missing even one small step, like releasing the parking brake, can cause thousands of dollars in damage.
- Align the RV and the car on flat ground, leaving enough space to extend the tow bar arms.
- Attach the tow bar to the base plate pins and secure them with lynchpins.
- Connect the safety cables in a “cross” pattern under the tow bar to catch it if it drops.
- Plug in the electrical umbilical cord and the breakaway switch cable.
- Set the car’s transmission and transfer case according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Double-check that the steering wheel is unlocked and the parking brake is OFF.
- Test the lights (left turn, right turn, and brakes) with a partner.
Once you are hooked up, pull forward slowly. Have a spotter watch the car to ensure all four wheels are rotating and the steering wheel is tracking correctly behind the RV. This is the best time to catch a binding brake or a locked steering column.
Driving Tips for Pulling a Vehicle
Towing a car changes the physics of your RV. Your stopping distance will increase significantly, and your turning radius will widen. You must become a proactive driver, looking much further down the road than you usually would.
One of the biggest shocks for new towers is that you cannot back up while flat towing. The front wheels of the towed car will “jackknife” almost instantly, which can bend your tow bar or damage the car’s front end. If you get into a tight spot, you must unhook the car before reversing.
Managing Mountain Grades
When descending steep grades, your supplemental braking system is your best friend. Use your RV’s engine brake or “Tow/Haul” mode to control your speed. Avoid riding the brakes, as the heat can transfer from the RV to the towed vehicle, potentially causing brake fade.
Check your mirrors frequently. You want to ensure the car is tracking straight and that there is no smoke coming from the tires or wheel wells. A Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) that covers both the RV and the towed car is a highly recommended upgrade.
Essential Tools for the DIY Mechanic
If you plan on installing your own base plate or wiring kit, you will need a few specific tools. Most base plates require removing the front fascia of the car, which can be intimidating but is manageable with patience.
- Torque Wrench: Critical for ensuring the base plate bolts are tightened to the exact manufacturer specifications.
- Trim Removal Tools: Plastic pry bars that prevent you from scratching the paint or snapping plastic clips on the bumper.
- Multimeter: Essential for testing your wiring connections and ensuring the diode kit is functioning correctly.
- Loctite: Use red or blue thread locker on all major mounting bolts to prevent them from vibrating loose over thousands of miles.
Frequently Asked Questions About How to Pull a Car Behind an RV
Can I tow any car behind my RV?
No, not every vehicle is compatible. You must check the owner’s manual for “recreational towing” instructions. Front-wheel-drive cars usually require a dolly, while many AWD and 4WD vehicles require a trailer or specific flat-towing configurations.
Do I need a special license to tow a car?
In most cases, a standard driver’s license is sufficient for personal RV use. However, some states require a non-commercial Class A or B license if the combined weight of your RV and towed vehicle exceeds 26,000 pounds. Always check local regulations.
Is flat towing better than using a dolly?
Flat towing is generally preferred for its ease of use and quick setup. However, a dolly is often more versatile if you change cars frequently or own a front-wheel-drive vehicle that cannot be flat-towed without mechanical modification.
Will towing add miles to my car’s odometer?
On most modern vehicles, the odometer is electronic and only records mileage when the ignition is on or the vehicle’s computer is active. If towed correctly according to the manual, most “toads” will not accumulate miles on the odometer.
What happens if my tow bar breaks?
This is why safety cables are mandatory. If the tow bar fails, the safety cables (which should be crossed) will keep the vehicle attached to the RV long enough for you to pull over safely. The breakaway switch will also activate the car’s brakes.
Conclusion: Ready for the Open Road
Taking the time to learn how to pull a car behind an rv correctly is an investment in your safety and your vehicle’s longevity. By choosing the right method—whether it is four-down, a dolly, or a trailer—you ensure that your adventures aren’t cut short by expensive mechanical repairs.
Remember to always double-check your connections at every rest stop. Heat, vibration, and road debris can affect your hardware over long distances. A quick walk-around can prevent a minor issue from becoming a major highway emergency.
Equip your setup with a high-quality braking system, keep your tools handy for adjustments, and always follow your vehicle manufacturer’s specific guidelines. With the right preparation, you’ll have the freedom to explore every hidden trailhead and small-town diner along your route. Stay safe and stay comfortable!
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