Adding a rear wing or a lip spoiler is one of the most satisfying upgrades you can perform in your own garage. It instantly transforms a standard commuter into a machine with a much more aggressive, performance-oriented profile.
You might worry about drilling into your trunk or the spoiler flying off at highway speeds, but those fears are easy to manage. With the right tools and a bit of patience, you can achieve a factory-quality finish without paying shop labor rates.
In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through the precise steps of how to put spoiler on car safely and effectively. We will cover everything from initial alignment and drilling to using high-strength adhesives for a clean, no-drill look.
Choosing the Right Spoiler for Your Vehicle
Before you pick up a drill, you need to understand that not all spoilers serve the same purpose. Some are purely aesthetic, while others are designed to provide functional downforce at high speeds.
Lip spoilers are subtle and usually attach to the edge of the trunk with heavy-duty adhesive tape. They are perfect for owners who want a sleek, European-inspired look without the commitment of drilling holes.
Pedestal spoilers and wings are much more prominent and usually require hardware to stay secure. These are ideal for performance builds where you want to redirect airflow and improve rear-end stability during spirited driving.
Material choice also matters, as ABS plastic is lightweight and durable, whereas carbon fiber offers a premium look and high rigidity. Fiberglass is common in aftermarket kits but requires more prep work before painting.
Understanding Aerodynamic Impact
A spoiler works by disrupting the airflow over the back of the vehicle to reduce lift. At higher speeds, this helps the tires maintain a better grip on the pavement, which is a key performance indicator for track enthusiasts.
If you choose a massive wing for a front-wheel-drive car, be aware that it might increase drag without providing much benefit. For most street cars, a well-placed spoiler is primarily about visual balance and style.
Always check if the spoiler you bought is “vehicle-specific” or “universal.” Vehicle-specific models follow the contour of your trunk lid, making the installation process significantly easier and more reliable.
Essential Tools and Materials for Installation
Preparation is the difference between a professional-looking mod and a DIY disaster. Gathering all your supplies beforehand ensures you don’t have to stop mid-project to run to the hardware store.
For a standard bolt-on installation, you will need a power drill and a set of high-quality drill bits. Using a center punch is also highly recommended to prevent the drill bit from “walking” across your paint.
Cleanliness is vital for any adhesive to bond correctly. You should have plenty of isopropyl alcohol and microfiber towels to strip away wax, grease, and road grime from the mounting surface.
- Power drill and cobalt drill bits
- Painter’s tape (masking tape)
- Measuring tape and a fine-tip marker
- Touch-up paint or a rust-inhibitor pen
- Clear silicone sealant
- Socket set or screwdrivers
- 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape
If your kit didn’t come with a template, you can make one using the cardboard box the spoiler arrived in. This “pro tip” saves you from making permanent mistakes on your trunk lid.
how to put spoiler on car: The Step-by-Step Drilling Method
The most secure way to mount an aerodynamic component is by using bolts. If you are nervous about how to put spoiler on car using a drill, just remember the golden rule: measure three times and cut once.
Start by thoroughly washing the trunk area. Any dirt trapped under the spoiler or tape can scratch the paint or prevent a flush fit, leading to vibrations later on.
Apply long strips of painter’s tape to the general area where the spoiler will sit. This protects your paint from the drill and allows you to draw your alignment marks clearly without damaging the finish.
Positioning and Templating
Many spoilers come with “locator strips” or plastic T-straps. Insert these into the mounting holes on the bottom of the spoiler and tape them down once you have the wing centered perfectly.
Carefully lift the spoiler straight up, leaving the locator strips or your cardboard template behind on the trunk. These marks indicate exactly where you need to pierce the metal for the mounting bolts.
Use a center punch to create a small dimple at each mark. This provides a pilot hole for your drill bit, ensuring that the hole is centered and the drill doesn’t slip and gouge the trunk.
The Drilling Process
Start with a small pilot bit before moving up to the final size required for your bolts. Apply light pressure and let the tool do the work; pushing too hard can cause the metal to deform or “burr.”
Once the holes are drilled, remove the tape and vacuum up any metal shavings immediately. These tiny shards can cause rust spots on your paint if they are left to sit or get wet.
Treat the raw edges of the holes with a rust-inhibitor pen or touch-up paint. This is a critical step that many amateurs skip, leading to bubbling paint and corrosion several years down the road.
Final Mounting and Sealing
Apply a small bead of clear silicone sealant around each hole before placing the spoiler. This creates a waterproof gasket that prevents rain and car wash water from leaking into your trunk space.
Lower the spoiler onto the holes and hand-tighten the bolts from the underside of the trunk lid. You may need to remove the interior trunk liner or “carpet” to access the mounting points.
Check the alignment one last time to ensure it is level and centered. Once satisfied, snug the bolts down with a socket wrench, but do not over-tighten, as this can crack the spoiler’s mounting pedestals.
The No-Drill Alternative: Using Automotive Adhesive
If you are leasing your vehicle or simply don’t want to drill holes, the adhesive method is a fantastic alternative. This is the standard procedure for how to put spoiler on car when dealing with lightweight lip spoilers.
The secret to a permanent bond is using 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape. This is the same stuff manufacturers use to hold trim and emblems onto cars at the factory; it is incredibly strong when applied correctly.
Temperature plays a massive role in how well the adhesive sticks. Ideally, you should perform this in a garage or on a day where the ambient temperature is between 70°F and 90°F (21°C – 32°C).
Surface Preparation for Adhesives
Clean the trunk lid and the bottom of the spoiler with isopropyl alcohol until the cloth comes away completely clean. If there is any wax on the paint, the tape will eventually fail and the spoiler could fly off.
Use a “primer-94” pen if available, as this acts as a chemical bond promoter for the tape. Apply it to the areas where the tape will make contact for an industrial-strength hold.
Test-fit the spoiler without removing the tape backing. Use painter’s tape to mark the exact corners of the spoiler so you have a guide when it is time for the permanent stick.
Applying the Spoiler
Peel back just a few inches of the tape backing on each end, folding the “tails” outward. This allows you to position the spoiler perfectly before the entire adhesive surface makes contact.
Once aligned with your marks, pull the remaining backing out from under the spoiler while applying firm downward pressure. This technique prevents air bubbles and ensures a flat, even bond.
Press down firmly along the entire length of the spoiler for at least 60 seconds. Most automotive adhesives take 24 to 48 hours to fully cure, so avoid driving at high speeds or washing the car during this time.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
One of the biggest mistakes DIYers make is failing to check the underside of the trunk lid before drilling. You must ensure you aren’t about to drill through wiring harnesses, trunk release cables, or structural bracing.
Another frequent error is ignoring the weight of the new spoiler. If you install a heavy GT wing, your factory trunk struts (gas springs) might not be strong enough to hold the trunk open anymore.
You may need to upgrade to heavy-duty struts to compensate for the added mass. This is a small but vital safety consideration to prevent the trunk from slamming down on your head or hands.
- Drilling without a center punch, causing the bit to slip.
- Failing to use silicone sealant, leading to trunk leaks.
- Installing in cold weather, which prevents adhesive from bonding.
- Miscalculating the center point, resulting in a crooked wing.
If you find yourself stuck or the trunk lid is made of complex composite materials, don’t hesitate to consult a local body shop. Some modern cars use aluminum or carbon fiber trunks that require specialized drill bits or fasteners.
Performance Benefits and Aerodynamic Impact
While most people focus on the looks, understanding how to put spoiler on car also involves respecting the physics of airflow. A well-designed spoiler reduces the “wake” behind the car, which can slightly improve fuel efficiency.
For off-road enthusiasts using cab spoilers on trucks, the goal is often to redirect air over a bed-mounted rack or a rooftop tent. This reduces wind noise and improves the driving experience during long highway hauls.
Track-day drivers look for spoilers that offer “adjustable AOA” (Angle of Attack). This allows you to tilt the wing to provide more downforce for technical tracks or less drag for high-speed circuits.
Always ensure your spoiler is level. A wing that is tilted too far forward or backward can create unpredictable handling by shifting the vehicle’s balance too far toward the rear axle.
Frequently Asked Questions About How to Put Spoiler on Car
Will installing a spoiler void my car’s warranty?
Generally, no. Installing a spoiler will not void your entire vehicle warranty. However, if the installation causes damage—like rust from undressed drill holes or a trunk leak—the dealership will not cover those specific repairs.
How long does it take to install a spoiler?
For a simple adhesive lip spoiler, the process takes about 30 to 45 minutes. A full pedestal wing that requires drilling and interior trim removal usually takes between 2 and 3 hours for a careful DIYer.
Can I remove a spoiler later if I change my mind?
Adhesive spoilers can be removed using fishing line to “saw” through the tape and an adhesive remover to clean the residue. Drilled spoilers will leave permanent holes that require professional bodywork and paint to fill.
Is it safe to go through a car wash with an aftermarket spoiler?
Touchless car washes are generally safe for both adhesive and bolt-on spoilers. However, “friction” washes with heavy spinning brushes can snag on large wings and potentially damage the spoiler or your trunk lid.
Maintenance and Long-Term Care
Once your spoiler is installed, it requires a little bit of extra attention during your detailing routine. Spoilers are often the first place where UV damage and clear coat failure occur because they sit flat under the sun.
Apply a high-quality wax or ceramic coating to the spoiler at least twice a year. If you have a carbon fiber wing, use a sealant specifically designed for composites to prevent the resin from turning yellow or cloudy.
Periodically check the mounting bolts from inside the trunk. Road vibrations can occasionally loosen hardware over time. A quick turn with a wrench ensures your performance mod stays exactly where it belongs.
If you notice any whistling sounds at high speeds, it usually indicates a small gap in the adhesive or a loose bolt. Addressing these minor issues early prevents them from becoming major safety hazards on the road.
Taking the time to learn how to put spoiler on car correctly is a badge of honor for any DIY mechanic. It is a project that combines precision, mechanical skill, and a touch of artistic flair to make your ride truly yours.
Take your time, measure twice, and enjoy the new look of your vehicle. Whether you are hitting the trails or the local car meet, a well-installed spoiler is the perfect finishing touch. Stay safe and happy wrenching!
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