Let’s be honest. As much as we love our quads, life sometimes gets in the way. The off-season hits, a big project at work takes over your weekends, or maybe you’re just storing your machine at a vacation property. Whatever the reason, your ATV is going to be sitting for a few months. And that quiet dread starts to creep in: “Will it even start when I’m ready to ride again?”
You’ve seen it happen. A buddy pulls the cover off his quad after winter, hits the ignition, and gets nothing but a sad click or a sputtering engine that refuses to run. That’s not just bad luck; it’s the result of improper storage. But it doesn’t have to be your story. We’re here to promise you that with a couple of hours of prep work now, you can avoid costly repairs and major frustration later.
This comprehensive guide will walk you through the exact steps the pros take. We’ll cover everything from fuel system preservation and battery care to tire protection and pest prevention. Follow this guide on how to store an ATV long term, and your machine will fire up and be ready to hit the trails the moment you are.
Why Proper Long-Term ATV Storage is Non-Negotiable
Parking your ATV and throwing a tarp over it is a recipe for disaster. Modern machines are tough, but they’re not invincible against the slow, silent damage that occurs during storage. Understanding the risks is the first step in avoiding them.
One of the biggest benefits of how to store an ATV long term correctly is preventing fuel system failure. Today’s ethanol-blended gasoline can start to break down in as little as 30-60 days. This process, called phase separation, leaves behind gummy varnish deposits and corrosive water that can clog tiny passages in your carburetor or fuel injectors, leading to a machine that won’t start or runs poorly.
Beyond fuel, there are other common problems with how to store an ATV long term if you skip the prep. Your battery will slowly discharge, potentially to a point where it can no longer hold a charge. Tires can develop permanent flat spots from sitting in one position, and rodents can build nests in your airbox or chew through critical wiring, causing thousands in damage. This isn’t about being picky; it’s about protecting your investment.
Step 1: The Pre-Storage Deep Clean – Your First Line of Defense
Never, ever put a dirty machine into storage. That caked-on mud, grass, and grime isn’t just ugly; it’s a trap for moisture. Moisture leads directly to rust and corrosion on your frame, suspension components, and electrical connections.
A thorough cleaning is also a critical part of pest control. Dirt and debris can hide residual food particles or provide cozy nesting material for mice and other critters. A clean machine is a far less inviting home.
Your Cleaning Game Plan
Rinse and Degrease: Start with a low-pressure rinse to knock off the heavy mud. Use a quality degreaser like Simple Green or a dedicated powersports wash on the engine, swingarm, and other greasy areas. Let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing with a soft-bristle brush.
Wash and Lather: Wash the plastics, seat, and frame with an automotive or powersports-specific soap. Avoid using dish soap, as it can strip wax and dry out plastics and rubber seals.
Dry Completely: This step is crucial. Use a leaf blower or compressed air to blast water out of every nook and cranny—especially around electrical connectors, engine fins, and bolt heads. Follow up with a microfiber towel for a final wipe-down.
Protect and Lubricate: Once dry, spray moving parts like suspension linkages, pivot points, and cables with a water-displacing lubricant like WD-40 or Max-Grip. This adds a final layer of protection against corrosion. A coat of wax on the plastics doesn’t hurt, either.
For a more sustainable how to store an ATV long term approach, consider using biodegradable, phosphate-free cleaners and washing your ATV on a grassy area away from drains to allow the ground to filter the water naturally.
Step 2: Fuel System Prep – Preventing the Dreaded Clogged Carburetor
This is arguably the most important step in this entire how to store an ATV long term care guide. Fuel system problems are the #1 reason a stored ATV fails to start. You have two main options here: stabilizing the fuel or draining it completely.
To Drain or To Stabilize? The Great Fuel Debate
For most people storing an ATV for a winter or up to a year, stabilizing the fuel is the best and easiest method. Draining the system can leave seals and gaskets in the carburetor dry and prone to cracking. Modern fuel-injected ATVs are also designed to have fuel in the system.
The only time to consider draining is for carbureted models being stored for more than a year. If you go this route, you must drain the tank, fuel lines, and the carburetor float bowl itself.
How to Properly Use a Fuel Stabilizer
A good fuel stabilizer (we recommend brands like STA-BIL or Sea Foam) prevents fuel from oxidizing and forming varnish. It’s not just a suggestion; it’s essential.
Fill ‘Er Up: Ride your ATV to a gas station and fill the tank about 90% full with fresh, ethanol-free premium gasoline if you can find it. A full tank leaves less room for air, which reduces the chance of condensation (water) forming inside your metal tank.
Add the Stabilizer: Read the directions on the bottle and add the correct amount of stabilizer for your volume of gasoline directly into the tank.
Run the Engine: This is the step everyone forgets. Start your ATV and let it run for 5-10 minutes. This is long enough to circulate the treated fuel through the entire system, including the fuel lines, fuel pump, and injectors or carburetor. Just adding it to the tank isn’t enough!
Step 3: Battery Care – Keeping the Juice Alive
Your ATV’s battery will naturally lose its charge over time, even when it’s not connected to anything. A fully discharged lead-acid battery can be permanently damaged by sulfation, meaning it will never hold a full charge again. Protecting it is simple.
The Disconnect and Tender Method (Best Practice)
The absolute best way to maintain your battery is with a smart charger, often called a battery tender or maintainer. Unlike a simple trickle charger, a tender monitors the battery’s voltage and only delivers a charge when it’s needed, preventing overcharging.
Locate your battery. If you’re leaving it in the ATV, you don’t need to remove it.
Connect the leads from a battery tender (like one from Battery Tender or NOCO) to the battery terminals. Connect the positive (red) lead first, then the negative (black) lead.
Plug the tender into the wall. That’s it. The device will manage your battery’s health for the entire storage period.
The Removal and Storage Alternative
If you don’t have access to an outlet where you’re storing the ATV, the next best option is to remove the battery entirely.
Disconnect the negative (black) terminal first, then the positive (red) terminal to prevent accidental shorts.
Remove the battery from the ATV.
Store it in a cool, dry place off of a concrete floor (a piece of wood or plastic shelf is fine). Concrete can accelerate temperature fluctuations and discharge.
Even when removed, it’s a good idea to hook it up to a battery tender once a month to top it off.
How to Store an ATV Long Term: Protecting Tires and Suspension
The weight of your ATV sitting in one spot for months can wreak havoc on your tires and put unnecessary, constant strain on your suspension components. Following these how to store an ATV long term best practices will keep your ride smooth.
Fighting Flat Spots
When a tire sits under load for a long period, the rubber and internal belts can develop a “memory,” creating a flat spot. This can cause a permanent vibration or bump when you start riding again.
Inflate to Max PSI: Check the sidewall of your tires for the maximum recommended pressure. Inflate them to this level. This helps the tire maintain its round shape. Just remember to deflate them back to your normal riding pressure before your first ride!
Elevate the ATV: The best solution is to get the tires completely off the ground. Use a set of sturdy jack stands placed under the frame or A-arms. This completely removes the load from the tires and also takes the static strain off your shocks and springs.
Step 4: Pest Prevention and Choosing the Right Shelter
A dormant ATV looks like a five-star hotel to mice, squirrels, and other critters. They love to build nests in airboxes and chew on the soy-based wiring insulation found in many modern vehicles. This is one of the most destructive and frustrating common problems with how to store an ATV long term.
Fortifying Your ATV Against Critters
Plug the Holes: Gently stuff a wad of steel wool into the exhaust outlet and the air intake snorkel opening. Critters hate chewing on it. CRITICAL: Tie a bright, long ribbon to each plug with a note that says “REMOVE BEFORE STARTING” and drape it over your handlebars. You will forget it’s there.
Use Repellents: Place mothballs, cedar blocks, peppermint oil-soaked cotton balls, or commercially available rodent repellents around and on the ATV, especially near the tires and engine.
Location, Location, Location
Where you store your ATV matters. A climate-controlled garage is ideal, but a dry shed or barn works well too. The goal is to protect it from extreme temperature swings and moisture.
Finally, invest in a high-quality, breathable ATV cover. Do not use a simple plastic tarp. Tarps trap moisture against your machine, which can accelerate rust and promote mold growth. A proper cover will keep dust off while allowing any condensation to evaporate.
Frequently Asked Questions About How to Store an ATV Long Term
How long is considered “long-term” storage for an ATV?
Generally, any period longer than 30 days is considered long-term storage. Fuel can begin to degrade in as little as a month, and batteries will start to self-discharge. If you know you won’t be riding for over four weeks, it’s best to follow these storage procedures.
Can I just park my ATV in the garage and forget about it for the winter?
We strongly advise against this. While it’s protected from the elements, you still face the three biggest risks: bad fuel clogging your carburetor/injectors, a dead battery that won’t recharge, and flat-spotted tires. Taking the preparatory steps is essential for a trouble-free start to the next riding season.
Is it better to store an ATV with a full tank or an empty tank of gas?
For almost all modern ATVs, it is far better to store it with a nearly full tank of stabilized fuel. A full tank minimizes air space, which in turn reduces the potential for water condensation to form and rust the inside of a metal tank. An empty tank invites moisture.
What do I need to do when I take my ATV out of long-term storage?
Create a “de-winterizing” checklist. First, REMOVE THE EXHAUST/INTAKE PLUGS! Then, reconnect your fully charged battery (or pull it off the tender). Check your tire pressure and adjust it to your preferred riding PSI. Check your oil and coolant levels. Finally, turn the key, let the fuel pump prime, and start it up. Let it idle for a few minutes to warm up before your first ride.
Taking a couple of hours to properly prepare your ATV for hibernation is one of the smartest things you can do as an owner. This how to store an ATV long term guide isn’t about busy work; it’s about saving you from the headaches and wallet aches of repairs come springtime. You’re protecting your machine and ensuring that when the trails call, your quad is ready to answer without hesitation.
Now your rig is protected. Go enjoy the off-season, and rest easy knowing your next adventure is just a key turn away. Ride safe!
- Blinker Kit For Polaris Rzr: Your Complete Guide To Street Legal - November 5, 2025
- Polaris Rzr 900 Roll Over Protection – Your Ultimate Guide To Cage - November 5, 2025
- Polaris Rzr Recalls And Issues – Your Complete Guide To Staying Safe - November 5, 2025