You have finally hit the open road in your motorhome, but you quickly realize that navigating a 40-foot rig through a narrow grocery store parking lot is a nightmare. Most travelers find that having a smaller “toad” or “dinghy” vehicle is the only way to truly enjoy the freedom of the RV lifestyle. Learning how to tow a car behind a motorhome can feel overwhelming at first, but it is a skill that opens up every hidden trailhead and downtown bistro on your map.
I promise that by the end of this guide, you will understand the different towing methods, the essential gear required, and the safety protocols used by seasoned road warriors. We will break down the technical jargon into actionable steps so you can hit the highway with total confidence. From choosing between a tow bar and a trailer to setting up your supplemental braking system, we have you covered.
In this article, we will preview the three primary towing methods, discuss the critical weight ratings you cannot ignore, and provide a step-by-step checklist for a secure connection. Whether you are a DIY mechanic or a weekend adventurer, this guide focuses on safety-first techniques that protect both your motorhome and your car. Let’s get your rig road-ready and your “toad” secured for the long haul.
The Three Main Methods of how to tow a car behind a motorhome
Before you buy a single piece of hardware, you must decide which towing method fits your vehicle and your travel style. Not every car can be towed the same way, and choosing the wrong method can result in catastrophic transmission failure. Here are the three industry-standard ways to bring your car along for the ride.
1. Flat Towing (Four-Down Towing)
Flat towing, often called “dinghy towing,” involves pulling the car with all four wheels on the pavement. This is the most popular method for full-time RVers because it is the fastest to connect and disconnect. However, it requires a vehicle with a specific type of transmission that can be lubricated while the engine is off.
Many Jeep Wranglers and 4WD trucks are favorites for this method because their transfer cases can be shifted into neutral. If you choose this route, you will need a tow bar, a base plate kit, and a supplemental braking system. It offers the best fuel economy and the least amount of extra equipment to store at the campsite.
2. Using a Tow Dolly
A tow dolly is a small two-wheeled trailer that lifts the front wheels of your car off the ground while the rear wheels roll freely. This is the go-to solution for front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicles that cannot be flat-towed. It is a middle-ground option that is relatively affordable and versatile.
The downside to a tow dolly is the storage requirement; once you reach the campground, you have to find a place to park the dolly. It also adds more weight to your setup than flat towing. However, it eliminates the need to install a permanent base plate on your car’s chassis.
3. Using a Car Hauler Trailer
If you have a luxury vehicle, a classic car, or an all-wheel-drive (AWD) vehicle that cannot be flat-towed or put on a dolly, a trailer is your best bet. This involves putting the entire car onto a flatbed or enclosed trailer. This method prevents mechanical wear and tear on the towed vehicle’s tires and drivetrain.
Trailers are the heaviest option and require a motorhome with a high towing capacity. They also require significant space at your destination. For off-roaders with highly modified rigs, a trailer is often the only way to safely transport a vehicle with oversized tires and locked differentials.
Essential Equipment for how to tow a car behind a motorhome
Once you have selected your method, you need the right “jewelry” to link the two vehicles together. Using high-quality, rated equipment is not just a suggestion; it is a legal and safety requirement on the interstate. Mastering how to tow a car behind a motorhome requires an understanding of how these components work in unison.
The Tow Bar and Base Plate
The tow bar is the V-shaped metal arm that connects the motorhome’s hitch to the car. You should look for a motor-mounted tow bar, which stays on the RV when not in use. These are much easier to handle than older, car-mounted styles.
The base plate is the framework that bolts directly to the car’s chassis. Unlike a standard hitch, it is designed to be pulled from the front. It is crucial to choose a base plate specifically engineered for your car’s make and model to ensure structural integrity during emergency maneuvers.
Safety Cables and Wiring Kits
Safety cables are your last line of defense. If the tow bar fails or unlatches, these steel cables keep the car attached to the motorhome long enough for you to pull over. Always cross them in an “X” pattern under the tow bar to catch the equipment if it drops.
You also need a wiring kit to synchronize the car’s taillights with the motorhome’s signals. You can choose between magnetic lights that sit on the roof or a permanent diode kit that taps into the car’s existing light housing. This ensures following drivers know when you are braking or turning.
Supplemental Braking Systems
Most states legally require a supplemental braking system for towed vehicles over a certain weight. This device sits on the floor of the car and physically pushes the brake pedal when it senses the motorhome slowing down. It prevents the car from “pushing” the RV during a hard stop.
There are portable systems you can move between cars and permanent systems hidden under the seat. Without this, your stopping distance increases significantly, and you risk overheating the motorhome’s brakes on long mountain descents. It is a non-negotiable safety item for any serious traveler.
Checking Your Weight Ratings and Capacities
Before you hook up, you must do some math. Every motorhome has a maximum weight it can safely pull, and exceeding this can lead to frame damage or transmission failure. You need to find your Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR), which is the total allowable weight of the motorhome plus the towed vehicle.
Check the weight of your car (curb weight) plus any gear you have loaded inside it. Many people forget that 200 pounds of camping gear in the trunk counts toward your towing limit. If your car weighs 4,500 pounds and your hitch is only rated for 5,000 pounds, you are cutting it very close.
Also, pay attention to the tongue weight. While flat towing has almost zero tongue weight, using a dolly or a trailer puts significant downward pressure on the RV’s rear axle. If the back of your motorhome is sagging, you may need to redistribute the load or upgrade your suspension components.
Step-by-Step Guide: Connecting Your Vehicle Safely
Precision is key when connecting your “toad.” Even a small mistake, like forgetting to unlock the steering wheel, can lead to flat-spotted tires or a broken tow bar. Follow this professional checklist every time you prepare to move.
- Position the Vehicles: Park the motorhome on level ground and drive the car up behind it, leaving about three feet of space.
- Attach the Tow Bar: Insert the tow bar into the RV’s receiver hitch and secure it with the locking pin. Extend the arms to the car’s base plate.
- Secure the Pins: Insert the attachment pins through the tow bar arms and the base plate brackets. Ensure the linchpins are clicked into the locked position.
- Connect Safety Cables: Cross the cables under the hitch and attach them to the designated loops on both the RV and the car’s base plate.
- Plug in the Electrics: Connect the 7-way or 6-way umbilical cord between the two vehicles. Test the blinkers and brake lights with a partner.
- Set the Braking System: Place your supplemental brake in the car, connect it to power, and perform the “test” cycle to ensure it is depressing the pedal correctly.
- Configure the Transmission: This is the most critical step. Follow your owner’s manual exactly. Usually, this involves shifting the transfer case to Neutral and the transmission to Park (for most modern automatics).
- Unlock the Steering: If your car has a locking steering column, the key must be in the “Accessory” position so the front wheels can track behind the RV.
Driving Techniques and Road Safety
Driving while towing a car is a different experience than driving a standalone motorhome. Your turning radius is wider, and your braking distance is much longer. One of the most important rules is: never try to back up while flat towing or using a dolly.
The front wheels of the towed car will pivot wildly, causing the tow bar to bend or snap almost instantly. If you find yourself in a dead-end street, you must unhook the car before attempting to turn around. It is a minor inconvenience that saves you thousands of dollars in repairs.
Keep a close eye on your rear-view camera. Check it every few minutes to ensure the car is tracking straight and that no tires have gone flat. A “TPMS” (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) that covers both the RV and the towed car is an excellent investment for early warning of a blowout.
When descending steep grades, use your motorhome’s engine brake or “tow/haul” mode. Relying solely on the service brakes can cause them to fade or fail. The supplemental brake in the car will help, but the engine should be doing the heavy lifting to maintain a safe speed.
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced RVers make mistakes when first learning how to tow a car behind a motorhome. One common issue is the “death wobble,” where the towed car begins to oscillate violently. This is often caused by worn suspension components on the car or an improper tow bar angle.
Your tow bar should be as level as possible. If the difference in height between the RV hitch and the car’s base plate is more than three inches, you need a drop-hitch adapter. An unlevel tow bar can cause the car to “dive” or “climb” during braking, which unbalances the entire rig.
Another pitfall is forgetting to check the car’s battery. Some vehicles require the ignition to be in the “on” or “accessory” position, which can drain the battery over an eight-hour drive. Installing a charge line from the motorhome to the car’s battery is a simple DIY fix that ensures the car starts when you reach your destination.
Maintenance for Long-Distance Towing
Towing puts unique stresses on your equipment. Every 500 miles, you should perform a “walk-around” inspection. Check that the hitch pins are still secure and that the safety cables aren’t dragging on the pavement. Heat is your enemy, so feel the tires and hubs of the towed car; if they are excessively hot, you may have a dragging brake.
Grease your tow bar joints regularly. Most high-end bars have grease zerks that require a shot of multi-purpose grease every season. This prevents the arms from binding and ensures they slide smoothly when you are trying to hook up on uneven ground.
Inspect the base plate bolts once a year. The constant vibration of the road can loosen even the toughest fasteners. Use a torque wrench to ensure everything is still tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications. If you see any cracks in the welds or bends in the metal, replace the components immediately.
Frequently Asked Questions About how to tow a car behind a motorhome
Can I tow any car behind my motorhome?
No, not every car is “flat-towable.” Many automatic transmissions will burn out because the internal pump doesn’t run when the engine is off. Always consult your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual under the “Recreational Towing” section before attempting to tow.
Do I need a special driver’s license?
In most U.S. states, a standard driver’s license is sufficient for recreational towing. However, if your combined weight exceeds 26,000 pounds, some states like California or Texas may require a Non-Commercial Class A or B license. Check your local DMV regulations.
How much does it cost to set up a car for towing?
A complete flat-tow setup (tow bar, base plate, braking system, and wiring) typically costs between $2,500 and $4,000 if you buy quality components. While it is a significant upfront investment, it pays for itself in convenience and safety over years of travel.
Can I tow an electric vehicle (EV) behind a motorhome?
Most current EVs, like Teslas, cannot be flat-towed or dolly-towed because the motors are always connected to the wheels. They usually require a full trailer. However, some newer models are introducing “tow modes,” so check with the manufacturer for the latest updates.
Final Thoughts on Safe Towing
Mastering the art of how to tow a car behind a motorhome is a rite of passage for any dedicated traveler. It requires a blend of the right mechanical gear, a bit of math, and a disciplined safety routine. By choosing the correct method for your vehicle and investing in a solid braking system, you protect your investment and the lives of those on the road with you.
Remember that the “perfect” setup is the one that gives you peace of mind. Don’t cut corners on safety cables or cheap out on a used tow bar with an unknown history. When you are cruising down the highway with your favorite 4WD rig following faithfully behind, you will know the effort was worth it.
Take it slow, double-check your pins, and always keep your owner’s manual handy. The road is calling, and now you have the tools to explore every inch of it. Stay safe and stay comfortable!
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