Polaris Code 17 520344 1 - Your Complete DIY Diagnostic And Repair

There’s nothing that kills the thrill of a trail ride faster than a flashing check engine light on your dash. You see polaris code 17 520344 1 pop up, and your mind immediately jumps to the worst-case scenario: a costly repair and a weekend ruined.

But take a deep breath. Here at FatBoysOffroad, we’ve seen this code a thousand times, and we promise it’s usually not the ride-ending disaster you think it is. This code is more of an annoyance than a catastrophe, and with the right guidance, it’s a fix you can likely handle right in your own garage.

In this complete guide, we’re going to break down exactly what this error means, show you the common culprits, and walk you step-by-step through the diagnostic and repair process. We’ll give you the confidence and the know-how to tackle this job, save some cash, and get your machine back on the dirt where it belongs.

What Does Polaris Code 17 520344 1 Actually Mean?

When your Polaris throws a code, it’s speaking a specific language. Think of it like a diagnostic shortcut pointing you directly to the problem area. Let’s translate this one into plain English.

The code breaks down into two parts:

SPN 520344: This part points to the specific component, which is the Fuel Level Sensor Circuit.
FMI 17: This specifies the type of fault. FMI 17 means “Data Valid But Below Normal Operating Range – Least Severe Level.”

Putting it all together, polaris code 17 520344 1 is telling you that the machine’s computer (ECU) is getting a signal from the fuel level sensor, but that signal is lower than the ECU expects it to be. In most cases, this means the sensor is reading “empty” when it shouldn’t be.

The good news? This is classified as a “least severe” fault. It will trigger your check engine light and make your fuel gauge unreliable, but it typically won’t put your machine into limp mode or leave you stranded.

Common Problems and Symptoms Triggering This Annoying Code

Before we grab any tools, let’s confirm the symptoms you’re seeing match the code. Understanding the common problems with polaris code 17 520344 1 helps you zero in on the fix much faster.

The Telltale Signs on Your Dash

When this code is active, you’ll almost certainly notice one or more of the following issues:

The Check Engine Light (CEL) is on: This is the most obvious indicator that something is wrong.
Fuel Gauge Reads Empty: Your gauge will likely be stuck on ‘E’, even if you just filled the tank.
Erratic Fuel Gauge Behavior: Sometimes, the gauge might flicker or jump between empty and its actual level before finally bottoming out.

The Usual Suspects: Top 3 Causes

While a few things can cause this fault, our years of experience in the shop show that it almost always comes down to one of these three culprits.

A Faulty Fuel Level Sending Unit: This is, by far, the most common cause. The sending unit sits inside your fuel tank with a float that moves up and down with the fuel level. Over time, the internal resistor can wear out or fail, causing it to send an incorrect signal.
Damaged Wiring or Corroded Connectors: Your Polaris takes a beating on the trail. Mud, water, and vibrations can damage the wiring harness that runs from the fuel tank to the ECU. A pinched wire, a loose pin, or a connector full of green corrosion can easily disrupt the signal.
A Glitchy ECU (Extremely Rare): While possible, a failure of the Engine Control Unit itself is highly unlikely to be the cause of this specific code. Always rule out the sensor and wiring first before even considering the ECU.

Your Step-by-Step Polaris Code 17 520344 1 Diagnostic Guide

Alright, it’s time to get our hands dirty. This diagnostic process is straightforward and designed to find the exact point of failure without wasting time or money. This is the core of our how to polaris code 17 520344 1 troubleshooting process.

Safety First: Pre-Check Essentials

We’re working near the fuel system, so safety is non-negotiable. Before you begin:

Work in a well-ventilated area, like an open garage or outdoors.
Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery to prevent any accidental sparks.
Have a fire extinguisher rated for gasoline (Class B) nearby.
No smoking, sparks, or open flames anywhere near your work area.

Step 1: The “Are You Sure?” Check

This might sound silly, but you have to ask: is there fuel in the tank? A code for a low fuel level signal can sometimes be triggered by… well, a low fuel level. Pop the cap and visually confirm you have a decent amount of fuel before proceeding.

Step 2: Visual Inspection of the Wiring Harness

Your next move is to play detective with the wiring. Trace the wires coming out of the top of your fuel pump assembly. This harness typically runs along the frame towards the front of the vehicle.

Look for any obvious signs of damage. Are there sections where the plastic loom is chewed up or melted from resting on the exhaust? Do you see any wires that look pinched or have exposed copper? Pay special attention to the main connector. Unplug it and look inside for any bent pins or, more commonly, green or white crusty corrosion. If you find corrosion, a good electrical contact cleaner and a small brush can sometimes solve the problem.

Step 3: Testing the Fuel Level Sending Unit

If the wiring looks pristine, it’s time to test the sending unit itself. This is the definitive test that separates a wiring problem from a bad sensor. For this, you’ll need a basic multimeter.

Access the Connector: Unplug the main electrical connector on top of the fuel pump assembly. You’ll need to identify the two wires that lead to the fuel level sender (your service manual can help, but they are often a specific color pair, like purple and black).
Set Your Multimeter: Turn your multimeter to the ‘Ohms’ (Ω) setting to measure resistance.
Measure Resistance: Touch the two probes of your multimeter to the corresponding pins for the fuel level sender on the fuel pump side of the connector.
Compare the Readings: You will get a resistance reading that corresponds to the fuel level. While exact specs vary slightly by model, a general Polaris guide is:
- Full Tank: Approximately 40 Ohms
- Empty Tank: Approximately 240 Ohms

If your reading is “OL” (Over Limit or Open Loop) or a flat 0, the sending unit is bad. If the reading is stuck at one end of the spectrum regardless of fuel level, it has also failed. This test confirms you need a new part.

How to Replace the Fuel Level Sensor and Clear the Code

Confirmed the sending unit is toast? Don’t sweat it. The replacement is a manageable job. This is one of the key benefits of polaris code 17 520344 1 diagnosis: it often points to a part you can replace yourself.

Gathering Your Tools and Parts

Before you start, get everything ready. You’ll generally need:

A new fuel level sending unit (or a complete fuel pump assembly, as they often come as one unit)
Basic socket and wrench set
Pliers
A clean rag
A fuel pump lock ring tool (or a brass punch and hammer as a careful alternative)

The Replacement Process: A Step-by-Step Walkthrough

The exact steps vary by model (a RZR is different from a Ranger), but the general process is the same.

Gain Access: You may need to remove seats, storage boxes, or access panels to get a clear shot at the top of the fuel tank.
Clean the Area: Thoroughly clean all the dirt and debris from around the fuel pump assembly. You do not want any of that junk falling into your clean fuel tank.
Disconnect Lines: Carefully disconnect the fuel line and electrical connector. Be prepared for a small amount of fuel to spill from the line; have a rag ready.
Remove the Lock Ring: This ring holds the pump assembly in the tank. Use the specific tool to unscrew it. If you don’t have one, you can gently tap the ridges of the ring counter-clockwise with a brass punch to avoid sparks.
Lift Out the Old Assembly: Carefully lift the entire fuel pump assembly out of the tank. Be mindful of the float arm so you don’t bend or break it on the way out.
Install the New Unit: Gently lower the new assembly into the tank, making sure the new gasket is seated correctly. Tighten the lock ring securely.
Reconnect Everything: Re-attach the fuel line and electrical connector. Double-check that everything is snug.

Clearing the Code and Verifying the Fix

Once everything is back together, reconnect your battery. The code will often clear itself after you start the machine and let it run for a minute or two. If it doesn’t, turning the key on and off three times (without starting the engine) can sometimes force a reset.

The real test? Your fuel gauge should now read the correct level. A successful repair is one of the most satisfying benefits of polaris code 17 520344 1 troubleshooting!

Best Practices for Preventing Future Fuel System Headaches

A great repair isn’t just about fixing the current problem; it’s about preventing the next one. This simple polaris code 17 520344 1 care guide can save you future trouble.

Follow these polaris code 17 520344 1 best practices to keep your fuel system happy:

Use Quality Fuel: Avoid leaving old, ethanol-blended fuel sitting in your tank for months, as it can degrade components.
Inspect Your Wiring: After a particularly rough or muddy ride, take a minute to glance over the wiring harness for any new damage.
Use Dielectric Grease: When you have connectors apart, put a small dab of dielectric grease on the pins. This waterproofs the connection and prevents corrosion.
Eco-Friendly Disposal: A sustainable approach means being responsible. When you replace parts, dispose of the old ones correctly. Many auto parts stores will accept old components for recycling, which is an easy, eco-friendly polaris code 17 520344 1 practice.

Frequently Asked Questions About Polaris Code 17 520344 1

Can I still ride my Polaris with code 520344 17?

Yes, in almost all cases. This code does not typically affect engine performance or put the machine into limp mode. The biggest risk is not knowing your true fuel level, so you’ll have to track your mileage or visually check the tank to avoid running out of gas.

How much does it cost to fix this code?

If you do it yourself, your only cost is the part. A new fuel level sending unit or complete pump assembly can range from $100 to $300, depending on your model. If you take it to a dealer, you can expect to add 1-2 hours of labor, potentially bringing the total to $400-$600 or more.

Does this code always mean the fuel sensor is bad?

Not always, but most of the time. This is why the visual wiring inspection is a critical first step. A simple corroded connector or a chewed wire can mimic the symptoms of a failed sensor, and fixing that is much cheaper than replacing a part you don’t need.

Will a fuel additive or cleaner fix this problem?

No. This is an electrical fault, not a fuel delivery or quality issue. Fuel additives are great for cleaning injectors and stabilizing fuel, but they cannot repair a failed sensor or a broken wire. Save your money and put it towards the correct diagnosis.

Tackling a check engine light can feel intimidating, but codes like polaris code 17 520344 1 are the perfect opportunity to learn more about your machine and build your skills as a DIY mechanic. By following this guide, you’ve learned what the code means, how to test for the failure, and how to replace the part yourself.

You’ve not only fixed the problem but also saved a significant amount of money and the hassle of a trip to the dealer. Grab your tools, get it done, and we’ll see you back on the trail. Ride safe!

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Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.