Polaris General Code 17 520344 - Your Complete Guide To Fixing Power

You’re geared up for a day on the trails, you turn the key in your Polaris General, and there it is—a check engine light and a cryptic message on your display. Seeing polaris general code 17 520344 flash on your screen can instantly sour your plans.

You’re probably thinking, “What does this even mean?” and “How much is this going to cost me?” It’s a frustrating moment every rider dreads, but don’t throw in the towel just yet.

We promise this guide will demystify that code for you. We’re going to walk you through exactly what it means, the common causes, and a step-by-step diagnostic process you can perform yourself. You’ll learn how to safely troubleshoot the issue, what tools you’ll need, and when it’s time to hand the keys to a pro. Let’s get your rig fixed and back on the dirt where it belongs.

What is Polaris General Code 17 520344, and Why is it On?

First things first, let’s break down this error code. Think of it as your General trying to tell you exactly where it hurts. In Polaris language, fault codes are broken into two parts: the SPN and the FMI.

The first number, 17, is the Suspect Parameter Number (SPN). SPN 17 specifically points to an issue within the Electronic Power Steering (EPS) system. This is the system that makes turning those big off-road tires feel effortless.

The second number, 520344, is the Failure Mode Identifier (FMI). This number tells you the type of fault. In this case, it almost always means “Current Below Normal” or “Open Circuit.”

Putting it all together, the polaris general code 17 520344 is telling you that the EPS control module has lost its electrical connection or isn’t receiving the proper amount of power. This isn’t a mechanical failure inside the steering rack itself, but rather an electrical problem leading to it.

Common Causes of This EPS Fault

This code is almost always rooted in an electrical hiccup. Here are the most common culprits we see at the shop:

Loose or Corroded Connectors: The number one cause. The main plugs going to the EPS unit can get jostled loose or contaminated with water and mud.
Damaged or Frayed Wires: A wire could have rubbed against the frame or another component, breaking the connection.
Blown EPS Fuse or Relay: A simple fuse could be the source of your headache.
Poor Ground Connection: The EPS system needs a solid ground to the chassis to complete its circuit. A rusty or loose ground wire can trigger the code.
Faulty EPS Unit: While less common, the electronic module on the EPS unit itself can fail internally. This is usually the last thing to suspect after checking everything else.

Common Symptoms and Safety Concerns with an EPS Fault

When this code pops up, it’s not just a light on the dash. You’ll likely feel a significant difference in how your General handles. This section covers what to expect and why you should address it immediately.

The most obvious symptom is the complete or intermittent loss of power steering. Your steering wheel will suddenly become extremely difficult to turn, feeling like an old-school vehicle without power steering. This is often called “heavy steering.”

This is more than an inconvenience; it’s a serious safety issue. Imagine losing power steering while navigating a tight, rocky trail or making a quick turn. The sudden increase in required steering effort can catch you off guard and lead to a loss of control. That’s why this is a code you should not ignore.

Tools and Supplies You’ll Need for the Job

Before you dive in, let’s get your toolkit ready. Having the right tools makes the job faster, safer, and less frustrating. You don’t need a professional shop, just a few key items.

Here’s your essential checklist:

Digital Multimeter: This is non-negotiable for any electrical diagnosis. You’ll need it to check for power, ground, and continuity.
Socket and Ratchet Set: A basic metric set will do for removing panels or brackets to access wiring.
Torx Bit Set: Polaris loves using Torx fasteners. A T-40 is often needed for dash components.
Flashlight or Headlamp: The EPS unit and its wiring are tucked away in dark places under the dash. Good lighting is key.
Electrical Contact Cleaner: Perfect for cleaning dirty or corroded connector pins without leaving a residue.
Dielectric Grease: Use this after cleaning connectors to protect them from future moisture and corrosion.
Zip Ties: Handy for tidying up wiring after your repair to prevent future chafing.

How to Diagnose Polaris General Code 17 520344: A Step-by-Step Guide

Alright, it’s time to get our hands dirty. Follow this polaris general code 17 520344 guide carefully. We’ll move from the simplest checks to the more involved tests. Remember to work slowly and methodically.

Step 1: Safety First – Disconnect the Battery

Before you touch any wiring or connectors, always disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. This prevents any accidental shorts that could damage sensitive electronics or cause injury. Safety is paramount.

Step 2: Visual Inspection of the EPS Unit and Wiring

Your first diagnostic tool is your eyes. The EPS unit on a Polaris General is typically located under the dashboard, attached to the steering column. You may need to remove a small access panel to see it clearly.

With your flashlight, carefully inspect the entire area. Look for any wires that look pinched, stretched, or have their insulation rubbed off. Follow the wiring harness as far as you can, looking for obvious signs of damage. A critter chewing on wires is a surprisingly common problem!

Step 3: Check the Main EPS Connectors

This is the most likely source of your problem. There are usually two main electrical connectors going into the EPS control module. Carefully unplug them. Sometimes they have a locking tab you need to press.

Inspect the inside of both the male and female ends of the plugs. Are they clean and shiny? Or do you see green or white crusty corrosion? Is there any sign of mud or water inside? Check for any pins that look bent or pushed back into the connector. Even a small amount of corrosion can break the connection and trigger the code.

If you find dirt or corrosion, spray them liberally with your electrical contact cleaner and use a small brush (like a toothbrush) to gently clean the pins. Let it dry completely before proceeding.

Step 4: Test for Power and Ground with a Multimeter

If the connectors look pristine, it’s time to confirm the unit is actually getting power. This is where your multimeter becomes your best friend.

Turn the key to the “On” position (do not start the engine). You’ll need power for this test.
Set your multimeter to read DC Volts (V DC).
On the main power connector for the EPS, you need to identify the primary power and ground wires. Typically, the power wire is a thick red or red/white wire, and the ground is a thick black wire.
Carefully touch the red probe of your multimeter to the power wire’s terminal and the black probe to the ground wire’s terminal. You should see a reading of 12 volts or slightly higher.
If you don’t get a reading, test the ground separately. Keep the red probe on the power wire and touch the black probe to a known good ground on the vehicle’s frame. If you now get 12V, you have a bad ground wire. If you still get nothing, the problem is on the power supply side (likely a fuse).

Step 5: Inspect the EPS Fuse

If you confirmed there’s no power reaching the EPS unit, the next logical stop is the fuse box. It’s usually located under the hood or under the driver’s seat. Your owner’s manual will have a diagram showing which fuse belongs to the EPS.

Pull the fuse and hold it up to the light. Look at the small metal strip inside. If it’s broken, the fuse is blown, and you’ve likely found your problem. Replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating. If the new fuse blows immediately, you have a short circuit that needs to be traced.

Best Practices for a Long-Lasting EPS System Repair

Fixing the problem is great, but making sure it doesn’t happen again is even better. Adopting some polaris general code 17 520344 best practices during your repair will save you future headaches.

Once you’ve cleaned the connectors and confirmed everything works, apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the connector before plugging it back in. This creates a moisture-proof seal, which is one of the best tips for preventing future corrosion.

This is also where a sustainable polaris general code 17 520344 approach comes in. If you find a single chafed wire, take the time to properly repair it with a butt connector and heat shrink tubing instead of replacing the entire expensive wiring harness. This eco-friendly choice reduces waste and saves you a ton of money. This is a core part of a good repair care guide.

When to Put Down the Wrenches and Call a Professional

The DIY spirit is strong, but it’s also important to know your limits. There are a few scenarios where seeking professional help is the smartest move.

If you’ve gone through all the steps above—the wiring is intact, the connectors are clean, the fuse is good, and you have confirmed 12V power and a solid ground at the plug—the issue may be an internal failure of the EPS unit itself. Replacing this unit can be expensive and may require special programming.

Additionally, if you’re not comfortable using a multimeter or tracing wiring diagrams, don’t force it. A simple mistake during electrical diagnosis can cause more damage. There is no shame in letting an experienced technician take over.

Frequently Asked Questions About Polaris General Code 17 520344

Can I still ride my Polaris General with code 17 520344 active?

We strongly advise against it. While the machine may still run, you will have no power steering. The steering will be incredibly heavy and could fail to assist you in a critical moment on the trail, posing a significant safety risk.

How much does it cost to fix this code?

The cost varies wildly depending on the cause. If it’s a corroded connector, the fix might only cost you a can of contact cleaner and some dielectric grease. If a fuse is blown, it’s a few dollars. However, if the entire EPS unit needs to be replaced, you could be looking at a repair bill of over a thousand dollars for the part and labor.

Will clearing the code from the dash fix the problem?

No. Clearing the code only removes the warning from your display temporarily. Because this code relates to an active electrical fault (“Current Below Normal”), the machine’s computer will immediately detect the fault again on the next startup and the code will return. You must fix the underlying electrical issue.

Troubleshooting electrical gremlins can be intimidating, but code 17 520344 is often a straightforward fix. By following these steps, you can confidently diagnose the issue and, in most cases, fix it yourself with basic tools.

Take your time, prioritize safety, and you’ll be back to enjoying those trails in no time. Ride safe, and happy wrenching from all of us here at FatBoysOffroad!

Author
Recent Posts

Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.