Let’s be honest. The stock drum brakes on the Polaris Outlaw 110 are… adequate. For a gentle ride around a flat, dry yard, they get the job done. But the second you introduce mud, a steep downhill trail, or a creek crossing, that “adequate” feeling can quickly turn into a heart-pounding moment of doubt for any parent watching from the sidelines.
You’ve probably felt that spongy lever and wished for more positive, confident stopping power for your young rider. It’s a common concern, and thankfully, there’s a fantastic solution.
This guide promises to be your definitive resource for the polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion. We’re going to walk you through the incredible benefits, the exact tools and parts you’ll need, a detailed step-by-step installation process, and the common pitfalls to avoid, ensuring you can tackle this project with confidence and dramatically improve the safety of your youth ATV.
Why Ditch the Drums? The Real Benefits of a Polaris Outlaw 110 Disc Brake Conversion
Upgrading from the factory drum brake system is one of the single most impactful modifications you can make. Drum brakes, by design, are an enclosed system. While this protects them from some impacts, it also means they trap water, mud, and heat, leading to significant performance loss precisely when you need it most.
Here are the concrete benefits of polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion that you and your rider will notice immediately:
- Massive Stopping Power: This is the number one reason. A hydraulic disc brake provides exponentially more clamping force than a mechanical drum. This translates to shorter stopping distances and a much higher margin of safety on the trail.
- Superior Feel and Control: Disc brakes offer incredible modulation. Your rider can apply just a little pressure for a slight speed check or grab a handful for an emergency stop, all with predictable, linear feedback through the lever. Drum brakes often feel vague and “grabby.”
- All-Weather Performance: Unlike drums that become nearly useless when full of water, a disc brake’s open design allows it to shed water, mud, and debris almost instantly. This means consistent, reliable braking in all conditions.
- Reduced Brake Fade: On long downhills, drum brakes build up heat they can’t easily dissipate, causing “brake fade” where the lever gets soft and stopping power vanishes. Disc rotors are exposed to the air, allowing them to cool much more efficiently.
- Simplified Maintenance: Forget adjusting cables and wrestling with springs. A visual inspection of pad life takes seconds. When it’s time for a change, swapping brake pads is a much faster and cleaner job than replacing drum shoes.
Gearing Up: Tools and Parts You’ll Need for the Job
Before you turn a single bolt, the key to a smooth project is having everything you need laid out and ready to go. A well-prepared workspace is a safe and efficient workspace. Here is your essential checklist.
The Conversion Kit – What to Look For
The easiest path to success is buying a complete conversion kit designed for the Outlaw 110. While you could piece it together, a kit ensures all the components are designed to work in harmony. A quality kit should include:
- A hydraulic brake caliper
- A custom caliper mounting bracket
- A drilled brake rotor (disc)
- A handlebar-mounted master cylinder and brake lever
- A braided stainless steel or high-pressure rubber brake line
- A set of new brake pads
- Hardware (banjo bolts, crush washers, etc.)
Essential Hand Tools
Most of this job can be done with a standard set of mechanic’s tools. No highly specialized equipment is needed.
- Metric Socket Set & Ratchet
- Metric Combination Wrench Set
- Torque Wrench (Crucial for safety!)
- Pliers (Needle-nose and slip-joint)
- C-Clamp or Brake Piston Spreader
- Allen / Hex Key Set
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
- A small piece of clear tubing for bleeding the brakes
- An empty bottle or jar to catch old fluid
Fluids and Consumables
Don’t forget the small stuff! These items are just as important as the wrenches.
- A new, sealed bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid (Always check the kit manufacturer’s recommendation)
- Can of Brake Cleaner
- Shop Towels or Rags
- Nitrile Gloves (Brake fluid is nasty stuff)
- Tube of Blue Threadlocker
The Complete Polaris Outlaw 110 Disc Brake Conversion Guide: Step-by-Step
Alright, it’s time to get our hands dirty. This is the core of our how to polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion process. Take your time, read each step before you do it, and always prioritize safety. Double-check your work as you go.
A quick safety reminder: Always work on a level surface. Secure the ATV on jack stands before removing any wheels. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
Step 1: Preparation and Teardown
First, secure the front brakes and put the ATV in park. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly. Then, safely lift the rear of the ATV and place it securely on jack stands. Now you can remove the rear wheels.
Next, focus on the old drum brake. Disconnect the brake cable from the lever on the drum housing. Follow that cable up to the foot pedal and disconnect it there as well. Remove the entire cable and the foot brake pedal assembly if your kit replaces it with a hand lever.
Finally, unbolt and slide the entire drum brake housing off the rear axle. You may need to wiggle it a bit, but it should come off, exposing the axle hub where the new rotor will mount.
Step 2: Installing the New Rotor and Caliper Bracket
Use brake cleaner and a rag to thoroughly clean the axle hub surface. Any dirt or rust here can cause the rotor to mount unevenly, leading to a wobble. Mount the new disc rotor onto the hub, applying a drop of blue threadlocker to each bolt.
Tighten the rotor bolts in a star pattern and use your torque wrench to tighten them to the specification provided in your kit’s instructions. This is a critical safety step! Next, install the new caliper mounting bracket onto the designated points on the axle carrier or swingarm. Again, use threadlocker and torque the bolts properly.
Step 3: Mounting the Caliper and Master Cylinder
If they aren’t pre-installed, place the new brake pads into the caliper. You may need to use a C-clamp to gently push the piston back into the caliper to make room. Slide the caliper over the rotor and onto the mounting bracket.
Loosely install the caliper slide pins or mounting bolts. Now, head up to the handlebars. Remove the right-side grip and any existing controls to make room for the new master cylinder and brake lever assembly. Mount it in a comfortable position for the rider and tighten it down.
Step 4: Running and Connecting the Hydraulic Line
This step requires care and attention to detail. Start at the master cylinder and route the new hydraulic brake line down the frame towards the rear caliper. Follow the path of other cables where possible.
Ensure the line will not be pinched, kinked, or rub against the chain, tire, or any moving suspension parts. Leave enough slack to allow for full suspension travel! Once you’re happy with the routing, loosely connect the banjo bolts with their new crush washers (one on each side of the fitting) to the master cylinder and caliper.
Step 5: Bleeding the Brakes – The Most Critical Step
This is where the magic happens and is one of the most important polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion tips. Air in the brake line is your enemy; it’s compressible and will result in a spongy, useless lever.
Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and carefully fill it with fresh DOT 4 fluid. Place one end of your clear tubing over the bleeder valve on the caliper and the other end into a catch bottle with a small amount of brake fluid in the bottom.
The process is simple: Pump, Hold, Crack, Close, Release.
- Slowly pump the brake lever 3-4 times, then hold it in.
- While holding the lever, slightly “crack” open the bleeder valve with a wrench. You’ll see fluid and air bubbles exit through the tube.
- Before the lever bottoms out, close the bleeder valve.
- Now you can release the brake lever.
Repeat this process, keeping a close eye on the reservoir and topping it up frequently. Never let the reservoir run dry, or you’ll have to start over! Keep going until only clear, bubble-free fluid comes out of the tube. The lever should now feel firm and solid.
Step 6: Final Checks and Bedding-In
With the system bled, go back and properly torque the banjo bolts and the caliper mounting bolts. Squeeze the lever hard and meticulously check for any fluid leaks at all connection points. Wipe everything down with brake cleaner.
Reinstall the rear wheels and torque the lug nuts to spec. Lower the ATV off the jack stands. Now, you must “bed-in” the new pads. In a safe, open area, perform a series of 8-10 slow, controlled stops from about 10 mph. This mates the pad material to the rotor surface for optimal performance. Avoid locking up the brakes during this process.
Common Problems with Polaris Outlaw 110 Disc Brake Conversion and How to Fix Them
Even with the best preparation, you might hit a snag. Don’t worry, most issues are simple to solve. Here are some of the most common problems with polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion and their solutions.
Spongy or Weak Brake Lever
This is almost always caused by trapped air in the hydraulic line. The solution is simple but requires patience: re-bleed the entire system. Tap the caliper and brake line gently with the handle of a screwdriver while bleeding to help dislodge stubborn micro-bubbles.
Brakes Dragging or Sticking
If the wheel doesn’t spin freely after the conversion, the brake is dragging. This can be caused by a misaligned caliper (check your bracket installation), a sticky caliper piston (ensure it moves freely), or an overfilled master cylinder reservoir that doesn’t allow fluid to return.
Leaks at the Fittings
A brake fluid leak is a serious safety issue. The most common culprit is reusing old crush washers on the banjo bolts. These are one-time-use items designed to deform and create a seal. Always use the new ones that come with your kit. Also, ensure the banjo bolts are torqued to the correct specification—too loose and they’ll leak, too tight and you can strip the threads.
Best Practices for Your New Disc Brake System
Your new brake system is a high-performance component, and a little care will ensure it serves you well for years. Following this polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion care guide will maximize its lifespan and reliability.
Regular Inspection
Make brake inspection part of your pre-ride check. A quick glance is all it takes. Check the brake pad thickness through the caliper window. Look at the rotor for any deep grooves or discoloration. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
Fluid Changes
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air over time. This water lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can cause corrosion inside the system. For a trail-ridden ATV, it’s one of the best polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion best practices to flush and replace the brake fluid every 1-2 years.
A Note on Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Practices
Being a responsible DIYer means handling waste properly. Brake fluid is toxic and must never be poured down a drain or onto the ground. A sustainable polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion means collecting the old fluid in a sealed container.
Most auto parts stores and local mechanic shops will accept used motor oil and other automotive fluids for recycling free of charge. Opting for a non-chlorinated brake cleaner is also a more eco-friendly polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion choice, as it’s less harmful to the environment.
Frequently Asked Questions About Polaris Outlaw 110 Disc Brake Conversion
Is a disc brake conversion really necessary for a 110cc ATV?
For casual riding in a flat, open area, the stock drum brake is functional. However, if the ATV will be used on varied terrain with hills, water, or mud, a disc brake conversion is one of the most important safety and performance upgrades you can make. It provides the reliable stopping power needed to build a young rider’s confidence and a parent’s peace of mind.
Can I do this conversion myself?
Absolutely. If you are comfortable with basic hand tools and can follow instructions carefully, this project is well within the reach of a weekend DIY mechanic. The most critical skill is being patient and thorough when bleeding the brakes. If you have any doubt about your ability to create a safe, air-free brake system, it is always best to consult a professional powersports mechanic.
How much does a conversion kit typically cost?
Prices can vary based on the brand and components included, but you can generally expect a complete, quality kit to cost between $150 and $350. While it’s an investment, the massive leap in safety and performance makes it well worth the price.
What’s the difference between DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5 brake fluid?
DOT 3 and DOT 4 are glycol-based fluids and are compatible with each other, though DOT 4 has a higher boiling point, making it better for performance applications. DOT 5 is silicone-based and must not be mixed with DOT 3 or 4. Always use the specific type of fluid recommended by your brake kit manufacturer—which is almost always DOT 4 for these conversions.
Completing a polaris outlaw 110 disc brake conversion is an incredibly rewarding project. You not only get to spend some quality time in the garage, but you also make a tangible, lasting improvement to the safety and capability of your youth ATV.
Take your time, double-check every bolt, and be meticulous with the brake bleeding process. The result will be a machine that stops as well as it goes, giving you and your young rider the confidence to tackle any trail.
Now get those tools out, stay safe, and enjoy the ride!
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