Is the steering on your kid’s Polaris Outlaw 90 feeling more like a suggestion than a command? Do the handlebars wiggle and slop around before the wheels even think about turning? You’re not alone, and thankfully, the fix is simpler and more affordable than you might think.
That excessive play is almost always a sign of a worn-out steering bushing. In this guide, we promise to walk you through everything you need to know about the polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing. We’ll show you how to diagnose the problem, choose the right replacement part, and install it yourself right in your own garage.
We’ll cover the tell-tale signs of failure, break down the benefits of upgrading, and provide a clear, step-by-step installation process. By the end, you’ll have the confidence to tackle this job and restore that crisp, safe steering your young rider deserves.
What is a Steering Bushing and Why Does it Matter on Your Outlaw 90?
Think of the steering bushing as a small, but mighty, gatekeeper. It’s a simple part, usually a plastic or nylon cylinder, that sits in the frame and supports the steering stem. Its one job is to provide a smooth, low-friction pivot point while eliminating any unwanted movement.
When your rider turns the handlebars, the steering stem rotates inside this bushing. A good bushing keeps that rotation tight and precise. A worn one allows the stem to wobble, which translates directly into that sloppy feeling at the handlebars.
The Unsung Hero of Steering Control
On a youth ATV like the Outlaw 90, precise control is everything. A young rider needs to feel connected to the machine to build confidence and stay safe on the trail. That little bushing is the critical link ensuring their input at the bars translates directly to the front wheels.
A solid bushing means predictable handling, less rider fatigue, and a much safer experience. It’s a component that’s easy to overlook until it fails.
Why the Stock Bushing Fails
The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) bushing is typically made from a soft plastic or nylon. While this is fine for a while, it’s not built for the long haul. The constant rotation, vibration, and exposure to dirt, mud, and water eventually take their toll.
The soft material wears down, creating a larger inner diameter. This new gap is where the dreaded “slop” comes from. It’s not a matter of if the stock bushing will fail, but when.
Telltale Signs: Common Problems with a Worn Polaris Outlaw 90 Steering Bushing
Not sure if your bushing is the culprit? A worn-out steering bushing has a few very obvious symptoms. If you notice any of these, it’s time for a closer look. This is one of the most common problems with a polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing.
- Excessive Handlebar Play: This is the number one sign. The handlebars can be wiggled up-and-down or side-to-side without the wheels moving.
- Clunking Noises: You might hear a distinct “clunk” or “knock” from the front end when turning the bars, especially when the ATV is stationary.
- Vague or Wandering Steering: The ATV may feel like it’s wandering on straightaways, requiring constant small corrections from the rider to keep it pointed in the right direction.
- Uneven Tire Wear: In extreme cases, the slop in the steering can contribute to feathered or scalloped wear on the front tires.
The “Wiggle Test”: A Quick DIY Diagnosis
Here’s a simple test you can do in 60 seconds. Have your rider stand in front of the ATV and hold the front wheels straight and steady.
Stand over the machine and grab the handlebars. Try to move them up and down, and then forward and backward, without actually turning them. If you feel significant movement or hear a clunking sound coming from where the steering stem passes through the frame, you’ve found your problem. That movement is the steering stem rattling around inside a worn-out bushing.
Choosing Your Replacement: OEM vs. Aftermarket Bushings
Once you’ve confirmed the bushing is shot, you have a choice to make: stick with the factory part or upgrade to a superior aftermarket option? For us at FatBoysOffroad, the choice is clear.
The Factory OEM Option: Pros and Cons
The main benefit of an OEM bushing is that it’s a guaranteed fit. However, it’s made from the same soft material as the original, which means you’ll likely be doing this job again down the road. It’s an easy fix, but not a permanent one.
Aftermarket Upgrades: Bronze, Delrin, and UHMW
This is where you get real value and longevity. Aftermarket companies make bushings from far superior materials that address the weaknesses of the stock part.
- Oilite Bronze: This is a fantastic option. It’s a porous bronze material impregnated with oil. It’s incredibly durable and self-lubricating, providing a super smooth and long-lasting pivot point.
- Delrin/Acetal: A high-strength, low-friction plastic that is much more durable and wear-resistant than the stock nylon. It’s a significant step up in performance and longevity.
- UHMW (Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight) Polyethylene: Another excellent plastic option known for its toughness and slick, self-lubricating properties. It’s highly resistant to abrasion and impact.
Our Pick for Performance and a Sustainable Choice
We almost always recommend an aftermarket Oilite bronze or Delrin bushing. The small extra cost is more than worth it for the peace of mind and extended service life. Choosing a durable, high-quality part is also a more sustainable polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing practice, as you won’t be throwing away worn-out plastic parts every couple of seasons. It’s an eco-friendly polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing choice that reduces waste and performs better.
How to Replace Your Polaris Outlaw 90 Steering Bushing: A Step-by-Step Guide
Ready to get your hands dirty? This job is straightforward and can easily be done in an afternoon with basic hand tools. This polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing guide will walk you through every step.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need
Gather your gear before you start to make the process smooth.
- New Steering Bushing (OEM or Aftermarket)
- Socket Set and Ratchet
- Wrench Set (especially 13mm, 14mm, 17mm)
- Pliers or Cotter Pin Puller
- Hammer and a Punch or Large Socket
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Waterproof Grease (Marine-grade is excellent)
- Shop Rags
Safety First: Prepping Your Workspace
Park the Outlaw 90 on a level surface, like your garage floor. Make sure the engine is off and the key is removed. Using a small ATV stand or jack stands to lift the front end off the ground will make the job much easier by taking the weight off the steering components.
Step 1: Remove the Front Plastics and Handlebar Cover
You’ll need clear access to the steering stem. This usually involves removing a few bolts or plastic push-pins that hold the front fender assembly and the plastic cover over the handlebars. Keep your hardware organized in a magnetic tray.
Step 2: Detach the Tie Rods
The tie rods connect the steering stem to the wheel knuckles. Locate the castellated nuts on the bottom of the steering stem where the tie rod ends connect. Pull out the cotter pins and undo the nuts. You may need to give the side of the stem arm a sharp rap with a hammer to pop the tapered tie rod ends free. Never hit the threaded part of the tie rod end directly.
Step 3: Unbolt and Remove the Steering Stem
The steering stem is held in place by a clamp at the top (where the handlebars mount) and a large nut at the bottom, just above where the tie rods were. Loosen the handlebar clamp bolts and slide the handlebars off, letting them rest gently on the side. Then, use a large wrench to remove the large nut at the bottom of the stem. The entire steering stem should now lift straight up and out of the frame.
Step 4: Extract the Old Bushing
Now you can see the culprit. The old plastic bushing is pressed into the frame tube. Often, it’s so worn you can pull it out with pliers. If it’s stubborn, you can use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry it out, or use a hammer and a large socket (one that is slightly smaller than the frame hole) to tap it out from the opposite side.
Step 5: Install the New Bushing
Clean the inside of the frame tube thoroughly with a shop rag. Apply a thin layer of waterproof grease to the outside of the new bushing. This will help it slide in smoothly. Carefully press the new bushing into place by hand. If it’s a tight fit, you can use a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer to gently tap it in until it is fully seated and flush with the frame.
Step 6: Reassembly and Final Checks
Now, just reverse the process. This is one of the most important polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing tips: take your time during reassembly!
- Apply a liberal amount of waterproof grease to the inside of the new bushing and the shaft of the steering stem.
- Slide the steering stem back down through the new bushing.
- Reinstall the large nut on the bottom of the stem and tighten it securely.
- Re-attach the tie rod ends, tighten the castle nuts, and always install new cotter pins. Never reuse old ones.
- Re-mount the handlebars and tighten the clamp bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque.
- Give the bars a turn from lock to lock to ensure smooth operation. Perform the “Wiggle Test” again—the slop should be completely gone!
- Reinstall your plastics, and you’re ready to ride.
Polaris Outlaw 90 Steering Bushing Best Practices for Longevity
You’ve done the work, now let’s make it last. Following a good polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing care guide will dramatically extend the life of your new part, especially if you opted for a high-quality aftermarket one.
The Importance of Proper Lubrication
Grease is your best friend. Even with self-lubricating bronze or Delrin bushings, a layer of high-quality waterproof grease provides an extra barrier against water and grit. Every time you wash the ATV or perform other maintenance, it’s a good idea to clean and re-apply a little grease around the top and bottom of the bushing.
Regular Inspections: Catching Wear Early
Make the “Wiggle Test” part of your pre-ride check. It only takes a few seconds. By checking for slop regularly, you can catch any potential wear long before it becomes a major safety or handling issue. This is one of the simplest polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing best practices.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Polaris Outlaw 90 Steering Bushing
How often should I replace my steering bushing?
There’s no set interval. You should replace it as soon as you detect any noticeable play or slop in the steering. With a stock bushing, this could be every year or two depending on riding conditions. A quality aftermarket bushing can last for many years.
Can a bad steering bushing cause a crash?
Yes, absolutely. In a severe case, the vague and unpredictable steering can make it difficult for a young rider to control the machine, especially in an emergency maneuver. It’s a critical safety component.
Is this a difficult job for a beginner?
Not at all! This is a great project for a DIY beginner. It requires basic hand tools and no special knowledge. Following a guide like this one, most people can complete the job in 1-2 hours.
What kind of grease should I use on the new bushing?
We highly recommend a high-quality, waterproof marine grease. It’s designed to resist being washed out by water and provides excellent, long-lasting lubrication and corrosion protection, which is perfect for an off-road machine.
Get a Grip on Your Ride
Replacing the polaris outlaw 90 steering bushing is one of the most impactful and affordable repairs you can make. It instantly transforms a sloppy, unpredictable machine into a tight, responsive, and safe ATV for your young rider.
By taking an hour or two in the garage, you not only fix a problem but also gain a deeper understanding of how the machine works. You’re ensuring your rider has the best possible control, boosting their confidence and keeping them safe on the trails.
So grab your tools, follow the steps, and get that steering dialed in. Happy wrenching, and ride safe!
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