There’s nothing quite like the pride you feel looking at your gleaming Polaris after a good wash. But there’s also nothing quite like the gut-punch of finding a new scratch or rock chip marring that perfect, vibrant red finish. It’s a battle scar, sure, but one you’d rather not have.
You’ve probably heard that fixing it right means getting the color perfect. You agree that a mismatched patch job can look worse than the original scratch. That’s where we come in.
We promise this guide will give you everything you need to confidently tackle those imperfections. We’ll demystify polaris paint code 293, showing you exactly how to achieve a near-perfect factory finish right in your own garage.
In this article, you’ll discover what this specific paint code is, where to find it on your machine, the essential tools you’ll need, and a step-by-step process for a professional-looking repair. Let’s get that ride looking showroom-fresh again.
What Exactly is Polaris Paint Code 293? Decoding Indy Red
Think of a paint code as a recipe. It’s a specific formula that ensures the color you buy today is the exact same shade that was sprayed on your machine at the factory. It removes all the guesswork.
Polaris paint code 293 is the official designation for one of the brand’s most iconic colors: Indy Red. It’s that deep, rich red you see on countless Polaris models, from the hard-charging RZR to the workhorse Ranger and the trail-taming Sportsman.
Using the exact paint code is non-negotiable for a seamless repair. Grabbing a generic “red” from the auto parts store will almost certainly result in a noticeable, mismatched patch. The code ensures you get the correct hue, metallic flake content, and finish, which is critical for making a repair disappear.
Locating Your Paint Code: Where to Look on Your Polaris
Before you can order paint, you need to confirm the code on your specific vehicle. While 293 is famously Indy Red, it’s always one of the most important polaris paint code 293 best practices to verify it yourself. Manufacturers can have slight variations year to year.
Here are the most common places to find the paint code sticker on your Polaris:
- Under the Seat: This is often the first and easiest place to check.
- On the Frame: Look for a sticker on the main frame tubes, sometimes near the front suspension or under the fenders.
- Inside the Glove Box: On some UTV models like the Ranger or General, the sticker may be inside the glove box compartment.
- Owner’s Manual: Your original owner’s manual should list the paint code along with other vehicle specifications.
Pro Tip: If the sticker is missing or has become unreadable from mud and power washing, don’t panic. Call your local Polaris dealership with your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). They can look up your machine’s exact build sheet and give you the correct paint code.
Your Essential Toolkit: Gathering Supplies for a Flawless Finish
Having the right tools and materials on hand before you start is the key to a smooth, frustration-free project. A professional result comes from professional preparation. Here’s your shopping list for this polaris paint code 293 guide.
Prep and Cleaning Supplies
- Degreaser: A good quality wax and grease remover is crucial to ensure the surface is perfectly clean. We recommend a product like PRE Painting Prep.
- Assorted Wet/Dry Sandpaper: You’ll want a range of grits, from 320 for initial scuffing to 1500 and 2000 for finish sanding.
- Masking Tape and Paper: Use automotive-grade masking tape to create sharp lines and protect surrounding areas.
- Tack Cloth: An essential, slightly sticky cloth that picks up every last speck of dust before you spray.
Paint and Finishing Supplies
- Automotive Primer: Use a high-quality sandable primer, preferably in a grey or red oxide shade, for best adhesion and color coverage.
- Polaris 293 Base Coat: The star of the show! You can get this in aerosol cans, touch-up pens, or in pint/quart sizes for use with a spray gun.
- Automotive Clear Coat: A 2K (two-part) clear coat in an aerosol can will provide the best fuel and UV resistance for a durable, long-lasting shine.
- Polishing Compound: A fine-cut polish will help you blend the new paint seamlessly with the old.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
This is not optional. Automotive paints contain chemicals you do not want to breathe or get on your skin. Safety first, always.
- Respirator: A NIOSH-approved respirator with organic vapor cartridges is a must. A simple dust mask is not enough.
- Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from overspray and splashes.
- Nitrile Gloves: Keep solvents and paint off your hands.
The Complete Polaris Paint Code 293 Application Guide: From Prep to Polish
Alright, you’ve got your gear, and you’re ready to go. This section details how to polaris paint code 293 application is done correctly. The secret isn’t in the spraying; it’s in the prep work. Take your time here for the best results.
Step 1: The Critical Prep Work
Wash the entire area with soap and water, then dry it completely. Follow up by wiping the repair area down with your degreaser and a clean microfiber towel. This removes any wax, oil, or silicone that could ruin your paint job.
Next, use 320-grit sandpaper to sand the scratch or chip, feathering the edges into the surrounding paint. You want to create a smooth, gradual transition. Your goal is to remove the damage and create a “key” for the new primer to stick to.
Step 2: Masking Off the Area
Carefully mask off the area around your repair. Create a “box” about 10-12 inches around the sanded spot. This gives you room to blend the new paint without creating hard tape lines right on the repair edge.
Step 3: Applying Primer
Wipe the area one last time with a tack cloth. Shake your primer can vigorously for at least one minute. Apply 2-3 light coats of primer over the sanded area, waiting 5-10 minutes between coats. Don’t try to cover it all in one thick coat. Let it dry completely according to the can’s instructions.
Step 4: Laying Down the Base Coat (Indy Red)
Once the primer is dry, you can lightly sand it with 600-grit sandpaper to make it perfectly smooth. Clean with a tack cloth. Now, grab your polaris paint code 293 base coat. Shake the can for a full two minutes.
Apply the color in the same way as the primer: 2-4 very light, even coats. Hold the can about 8-10 inches from the surface. Overlap each pass by about 50%. The first coat will look transparent—that’s normal! Build the color slowly. Wait 10-15 minutes between coats.
Step 5: Applying the Clear Coat
After your final color coat has “flashed off” (it will look matte or dull, usually after 30-60 minutes), it’s time for clear coat. This protects the color and gives it that factory shine. Following the can’s instructions (especially for 2K clear), apply 2-3 medium-wet coats. This step is what delivers the biggest of the benefits of polaris paint code 293—a protected, glossy finish.
Step 6: Curing and Finishing
Let the clear coat cure for at least 24-48 hours before handling. For the best results, wait a week before doing any finish sanding. If you have any minor texture (“orange peel”), you can carefully wet sand the area with 2000-grit sandpaper and then use a polishing compound to bring back a brilliant shine.
Common Problems with Polaris Paint Code 293 and How to Fix Them
Even with careful work, issues can pop up. Don’t worry, most are fixable. Here are some common problems with polaris paint code 293 projects and their solutions.
Paint Runs or Sags
This happens when you apply too much paint in one coat or hold the can too close. The fix: let the run dry completely (this may take a day or two). Then, carefully sand it down with a small sanding block and 600-grit paper until it’s level, and then re-apply your color and clear coats.
Orange Peel Texture
This is a bumpy texture that looks like an orange peel. It’s usually caused by the paint drying too quickly or being sprayed from too far away. The fix: after the clear coat has fully cured, wet sand the area with 1500-grit, then 2000-grit sandpaper until smooth. Follow up with a polishing compound to restore the gloss.
Poor Color Match
If the color looks slightly off, it could be due to a few factors. The original paint on your machine has likely faded slightly from UV exposure. To help, try “blending” the new color. When spraying, extend your final, lightest coat slightly further into the surrounding original paint. This creates a softer transition that tricks the eye.
The Long-Term Polaris Paint Code 293 Care Guide
You did it! The repair looks great. Now, how do you keep it that way? A proper polaris paint code 293 care guide is all about protection.
After the paint has fully cured (about 30 days), you can treat it like the rest of your machine. Wash it regularly using the two-bucket method to prevent scratches. Most importantly, apply a good quality wax or sealant every few months. This will protect your new paint job from UV rays, preventing fading and keeping that Indy Red looking deep and vibrant for years to come.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Paint Practices
Part of being a responsible DIYer is handling materials correctly. For a more sustainable polaris paint code 293 project, always follow disposal instructions. Never throw aerosol cans with product left in them in the regular trash. Many local waste facilities have specific days for hazardous material drop-offs. Using a drop cloth also prevents overspray from contaminating the ground, which is a simple, eco-friendly polaris paint code 293 practice.
Frequently Asked Questions About Polaris Paint Code 293
Is Polaris Paint Code 293 always Indy Red?
Yes, in the Polaris ecosystem, code 293 is the specific manufacturer formula for their Indy Red color. While another brand might coincidentally use the number 293 for a different color, for Polaris parts and paint, it means Indy Red.
Can I get this paint in an aerosol can for easy DIY?
Absolutely. Polaris paint code 293 is widely available from aftermarket paint suppliers in user-friendly aerosol spray cans, as well as touch-up pens for tiny chips and larger liquid quantities for professional spray guns.
How long does the paint take to fully cure?
While the paint may feel dry to the touch in an hour, it takes much longer to fully harden, or “cure.” It’s best to wait at least 24-48 hours before reassembling parts. For maximum durability, avoid power washing or applying wax to the new paint for about 30 days.
Do I really need to use a clear coat?
Yes, 100%. The base coat (the red color) is dull and has no protection. The clear coat provides the gloss, depth, and vital protection against UV rays, fuel, and scratches. Skipping this step will result in a repair that fades and fails quickly.
Fixing those inevitable trail scratches yourself is incredibly rewarding. By taking your time, focusing on preparation, and using the right materials like polaris paint code 293, you can restore your machine’s finish and protect its value.
Now you have the knowledge and the step-by-step plan. So go ahead, patch up those battle scars, and get back out there with a ride that looks as good as it performs. Stay safe on the trails!
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