We’ve all been there. You’re back from an epic weekend on the trails, covered in mud and grinning from ear to ear. But after the wash-down, you see it—a deep scratch on your fender from a tight squeeze through the trees, or a nasty rock chip on your door. That brilliant Indy Red shine is now broken, and it’s all you can see.
You know that a professional paint job can cost a small fortune, and a cheap touch-up job can look even worse than the original damage. It’s frustrating. You want your machine to look as good as it performs.
Here’s the good news: you can achieve a professional, durable, factory-looking finish yourself. This guide promises to walk you through every step of using polaris paint code 737. We’ll give you the exact process, pro tips, and troubleshooting advice you need to restore that iconic Indy Red and make your ride look brand new again.
Get ready to learn how to prep like a master, spray like a pro, and protect your work for years of future adventures. Let’s get that shine back.
What Exactly is Polaris Paint Code 737?
First things first, let’s demystify this code. When we talk about polaris paint code 737, we are referring to one of the most iconic colors in the Polaris lineup: Indy Red.
This isn’t just any red. It’s a specific, vibrant shade you’ll find on countless RZR, Ranger, Sportsman, and General models. The paint “code” is the manufacturer’s formula that ensures a perfect match every single time, whether the paint is mixed at a dealership or by a third-party supplier.
Understanding the paint system is crucial. For most modern Polaris vehicles, especially the plastic body panels, Indy Red is a two-stage system:
- Basecoat: This is the layer that contains the actual color pigment (the Indy Red). It goes on thin and dries to a matte or semi-gloss finish. Its only job is to provide the color.
- Clear Coat: This is the second stage, applied over the basecoat. The clear coat provides the deep gloss, UV protection against sun fading, and the durable, chemical-resistant layer that protects the color from scratches, fuel, and the elements.
Skipping the clear coat is a common rookie mistake. Without it, the basecoat will quickly fade, stain, and offer zero protection. This is a non-negotiable step for a lasting repair.
Your Toolkit: Gathering Supplies for a Pro-Level Job
A perfect paint job is 90% preparation and 10% application. Having the right tools and materials on hand before you start is the first step toward success. Here’s your shopping list, broken down by category.
Surface Preparation Essentials
This is where the magic happens. Don’t skimp here; proper prep prevents paint from peeling, flaking, or reacting poorly.
- Degreaser: A quality wax and grease remover is essential for cleaning the surface of any oils, silicones, or contaminants.
- Sandpaper: You’ll need a few different grits. 320-grit for sanding down initial damage and filler, 400-600 grit for final primer sanding, and 1500-2000 grit for wet sanding the clear coat.
- Scuff Pad: A red or gray scuff pad is perfect for keying up surfaces that don’t need heavy sanding but still need the new paint to “bite.”
- Masking Tape & Paper: Use high-quality automotive masking tape to get clean lines and prevent overspray.
- Tack Cloth: A sticky cloth used to pick up every last speck of dust right before you spray.
Paint & Application Tools
This is where you choose your weapon. Whether you’re using aerosol cans or a spray gun, quality matters.
- Adhesion Promoter for Plastic: This is the most critical product for painting Polaris plastics. It’s a clear primer that ensures the subsequent layers of paint stick to the flexible plastic surface without flaking off.
- Primer: A high-build or filler primer can help fill in minor sanding scratches for a perfectly smooth surface.
- Indy Red 737 Basecoat: You can get this from your Polaris dealer, or from reputable online automotive paint suppliers like ColorRite or TouchUpDirect who can mix it in aerosol cans or quarts for a spray gun.
- 2K Clear Coat: For durability, you must use a 2K clear coat. This is a two-part clear that has a hardener activated right before use. It’s far superior to standard 1K clear coats in terms of gloss, hardness, and resistance to fuel and chemicals. You can get this in an aerosol can (like SprayMax 2K Clear) or for your spray gun.
Safety First: Your Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
We’re serious about this. Automotive paints contain chemicals you do not want in your lungs or on your skin.
- Respirator: A dual-cartridge respirator rated for organic vapors is a must-have. A simple dust mask is not enough.
- Safety Glasses or Goggles: Protect your eyes from overspray and splash-back.
- Nitrile Gloves: Keep harsh chemicals off your hands and prevent skin oils from contaminating your workpiece.
The Ultimate How-To Polaris Paint Code 737 Guide
Alright, you’ve got your gear. Now it’s time to get to work. Follow these steps methodically, and don’t rush. Patience is your best tool.
Step 1: Clean and Degrease
Start by thoroughly cleaning the part with soap and water. Once it’s completely dry, wipe the entire area to be painted with your wax and grease remover using a clean, lint-free cloth. Use a second clean cloth to wipe it dry immediately after.
Step 2: The Critical Art of Sanding
If you have a deep scratch, start with 320-grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Your goal is to “feather” the edges of the scratch so there isn’t a hard line. Once the damage is level, switch to 400-grit to smooth out the 320-grit scratches. The entire area you plan to paint should be scuffed and dull; shiny spots mean the paint won’t stick.
Step 3: Masking and Final Wipe-Down
Carefully mask off any areas you don’t want paint on. Use your masking paper to cover large sections. Once masked, do one final wipe with your degreaser, then go over the surface lightly with a tack cloth right before you spray your first coat.
Step 4: Adhesion Promoter and Primer
If you’re painting raw plastic, apply a few light coats of the adhesion promoter. Follow the product’s instructions for flash time (the time between coats). After that, apply 2-3 coats of your primer, allowing proper flash time between each. Let the primer cure completely (usually a few hours), then lightly sand it smooth with 600-grit sandpaper.
Step 5: Applying the Indy Red Basecoat
Here we go! Shake your basecoat can or mix your paint thoroughly. Hold the can or gun about 6-8 inches from the surface. Apply light, even coats, overlapping each pass by about 50%. The first coat should be a light “tack coat.” Let it flash off for 5-10 minutes, then apply 2-3 more medium coats until you have full, even coverage. The basecoat will look dull; this is normal.
Step 6: Laying Down the 2K Clear Coat
This is the money shot. After the basecoat is dry to the touch (check the paint manufacturer’s recommendation), it’s time for clear. If using a 2K aerosol, activate the hardener can. Apply the clear coat in the same way as the basecoat, but this time apply “wetter” coats. The goal is a smooth, glossy finish right out of the can. Apply 2-3 wet coats, respecting the flash time. This layer provides the shine and protection, making it one of the most important polaris paint code 737 best practices.
Step 7: Curing and Finishing
Let the clear coat cure for at least 24 hours (or longer, depending on temperature and humidity) before handling. For a truly professional finish, you can wet sand the cured clear coat with 2000-grit sandpaper to remove any minor imperfections or orange peel, then use a machine polisher with cutting and finishing compounds to bring it to a mirror shine.
Common Problems with Polaris Paint Code 737 Touch-Ups (And How to Fix Them)
Even with careful work, things can go wrong. Here are some of the most common issues and how to deal with them.
Orange Peel: This is a pebbly texture in the clear coat. It’s usually caused by the paint drying too fast or being applied too far from the surface. The Fix: Let it cure fully, then wet sand the surface flat with 1500-2000 grit paper and polish it back to a shine.
Runs and Sags: This happens when you apply too much paint in one area. The Fix: If you catch it while wet, you can sometimes gently wick it away with the corner of a clean cloth. If it dries, you’ll have to let it cure completely, sand the run flat, and re-apply your base and clear.
Fish Eyes: These are small, crater-like blemishes caused by surface contamination (usually silicone or oil). The Fix: This is a nightmare to fix mid-job. Prevention is the only cure. Be absolutely militant about your degreasing step before you start painting.
Polaris Paint Code 737 Care Guide: Keeping Your Indy Red Looking Fresh
You’ve done the work, now let’s protect it. A proper **polaris paint code 737 care guide** will keep your machine looking great for years.
- Wait to Wash: Don’t wash or wax the new paint for at least 30 days. It needs time to fully cure and harden.
- Use a Two-Bucket Wash: When you do wash it, use one bucket for soapy water and one for clean rinse water. This prevents you from rubbing grit and dirt back onto the finish.
- Protect It: After it’s fully cured, apply a quality wax or a ceramic coating designed for plastics. This adds another layer of protection against UV rays and makes it easier to clean.
- Touch-Up Pen: For tiny rock chips you get on future rides, a touch-up pen with code 737 is perfect for a quick, on-the-spot fix before it gets worse.
Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Polaris Paint Code 737 Best Practices
Being a DIYer doesn’t mean we can’t be responsible. Following a few **sustainable polaris paint code 737** practices helps minimize our environmental impact.
Using an HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) spray gun is more efficient than aerosol cans, transferring more paint to the surface and creating less overspray (wasted paint). When possible, look for low-VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) paints and cleaners.
Most importantly, dispose of materials correctly. Never pour leftover paint or solvents down the drain. Let old rags and masking paper dry out completely in a well-ventilated area before disposal to prevent spontaneous combustion. Contact your local waste management facility for instructions on how to dispose of leftover liquid paint and aerosol cans.
Frequently Asked Questions About Polaris Paint Code 737
Where can I buy paint matching Polaris code 737?
You have several great options. Your local Polaris dealership can often order it for you in spray cans or touch-up bottles. For larger quantities or custom-filled aerosol cans, online retailers like ColorRite and TouchUpDirect are excellent resources that specialize in powersports paint matching.
Is Polaris 737 a single-stage or two-stage paint?
On virtually all modern Polaris machines, Indy Red (737) is a two-stage paint system. This means it requires a separate color basecoat followed by a protective clear coat. Using a single-stage paint will result in a poor color match, low gloss, and no durability.
Can I use a rattle can for a good finish?
Absolutely! The key to a great rattle can job is technique and product quality. Using light, even coats and, most importantly, finishing with a high-quality 2K clear coat in an aerosol can will yield a surprisingly professional and durable result that can rival a budget spray gun job.
How do I find the paint code on my Polaris?
This can sometimes be tricky. Unlike cars, Polaris vehicles don’t always have a convenient sticker with the paint code. It might be under the seat or hood, but often the best way to be 100% sure is to call a Polaris dealer with your vehicle’s VIN. They can look up the exact color code your machine left the factory with.
Taking on a paint project can feel intimidating, but it’s one of the most rewarding DIY jobs you can do. The key is to be patient and methodical, especially during the prep stage. By following this guide, you have all the knowledge you need to fix those trail scars and restore the deep, head-turning shine of your Indy Red Polaris.
So tape it off, gear up, and get spraying. You’ve got this. Now go make your machine look as good as it rides. Stay safe out there!
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