Polaris Ranger Code 1347 - Your Complete DIY Diagnostic & Fix-It Guide

There’s nothing that kills the thrill of a trail ride faster than your Polaris Ranger sputtering, losing power, and flashing that dreaded check engine light. You pull over, cycle through the diagnostics, and see it: Fault Code 1347. Your heart sinks a little. Is this a simple fix or a weekend-ruining repair?

I’m here to tell you not to panic. At FatBoysOffroad, we believe in empowering owners to handle their own machines. This guide is your new co-pilot. We’re going to break down exactly what the polaris ranger code 1347 means, what causes it, and how you can troubleshoot it like a pro, right in your own garage.

We’ll cover the common symptoms, the tools you’ll need for a proper diagnosis, a step-by-step process from simple visual checks to the definitive pressure test, and the best practices to keep this code from ever coming back. Let’s get your Ranger running strong again.

What Exactly is Polaris Ranger Code 1347? Decoding the Message

When your Ranger’s computer logs a trouble code, it’s not just a random number. It’s a specific message pointing you toward a problem. In this case, the full code is typically 1347 with a Failure Mode Identifier (FMI) of 7.

In plain English, polaris ranger code 1347 translates to: Fuel Pump Driver, Mechanical System Not Responding or Out of Adjustment.

Let’s break that down. Your Ranger’s brain, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), is sending a command to the fuel pump. It’s expecting to see a specific result—a stable fuel pressure of around 58 PSI. When it doesn’t see that pressure, it throws this code. The key here is the word “Mechanical.” The ECU believes the electrical side is working, but the physical parts aren’t delivering the fuel as requested.

Spotting the Symptoms: Common Problems with Polaris Ranger Code 1347

A fuel delivery issue doesn’t happen in a vacuum. Your Ranger will almost always give you warning signs that something is wrong before or during the time the code appears. If you’re experiencing any of these, code 1347 is a likely culprit.

Hard Starting or No-Start: The engine cranks but struggles to fire up, or won’t start at all. It simply isn’t getting the initial prime of fuel it needs.
Engine Sputtering or Hesitation: The machine stumbles and feels jerky, especially when you hit the gas to climb a hill or accelerate.
Major Loss of Power: Your Ranger feels sluggish and weak, like it’s running on half its cylinders. It just doesn’t have the “get up and go” it normally does.
Unexpected Stalling: The engine dies suddenly, either at idle or while you’re moving. This is a classic sign of fuel starvation.
Audible Whine from the Fuel Tank: Sometimes a failing fuel pump will make a louder-than-normal whining or buzzing sound as it struggles to build pressure.

The Usual Suspects: Top Causes of Fault Code 1347

Since this is a mechanical code, we need to look at the physical path the fuel takes from the tank to the engine. Nine times out of ten, the problem lies in one of these areas. This is your ultimate polaris ranger code 1347 guide to finding the root cause.

The Clogged Fuel Filter

This is, without a doubt, the most common cause. Over time, debris from the gas tank, sediment from old fuel, or even water can clog the fine mesh of the filter. A clogged filter acts like a dam, preventing the pump from pushing enough fuel through.

A Failing or Weak Fuel Pump

The electric motor inside the fuel pump can simply wear out. After thousands of hours of operation, it might not be able to spin fast enough to generate the required 58 PSI, even if it’s getting full voltage. This is especially common on higher-mileage machines.

Kinked, Pinched, or Clogged Fuel Lines

Always check the simple stuff first. A fuel line can get pinched in the frame during reassembly after other work, or a stick or rock on the trail could have damaged and crimped a line, creating a major restriction.

Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator

The regulator’s job is to maintain that steady 58 PSI by bleeding off any excess pressure. If the regulator gets stuck open, it will bleed off too much pressure, causing the system to run low and triggering the code.

Electrical Gremlins: Wiring and Connections

While the code points to a mechanical fault, a poor electrical connection to the pump can make it underperform. A corroded connector or a chafed wire can reduce the voltage the pump receives, causing it to run slow and produce low pressure, which the ECU interprets as a mechanical failure.

Your Step-by-Step Polaris Ranger Code 1347 Guide to Diagnosis

Alright, let’s get our hands dirty. Follow these steps in order, from easiest to most involved, to pinpoint the exact cause. Here is how to polaris ranger code 1347 diagnosis is done right.

Safety First: Pre-Check Essentials

We’re working with fuel. Safety is not optional.

Work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors or with a garage door wide open.
NO SMOKING, sparks, or open flames anywhere near your work area.
Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery before unplugging any electrical components.
Have a Class B (flammable liquids) fire extinguisher within arm’s reach.

Step 1: The Simple Stuff – Listen, Look, and Smell

Before grabbing any tools, use your senses. Turn the key to the “ON” position (don’t start the engine). You should hear a distinct buzzing or humming sound from the fuel tank area for 2-3 seconds. This is the fuel pump priming the system.

If you hear a very weak buzz, a struggling sound, or no sound at all, that’s a big clue pointing to a pump or electrical issue. Also, take a quick look under the machine for any obvious fuel leaks or damaged fuel lines.

Step 2: Test the Fuel Pressure (The Definitive Test)

This is the single most important test you can perform. Guessing is for amateurs; data tells the truth. You’ll need a Fuel Pressure Test Gauge. You can often rent one from an auto parts store or buy an affordable kit online.

Locate the fuel rail. It’s the metal pipe that supplies fuel to the injectors. On it, you’ll find a test port that looks just like a tire’s air valve—this is a Schrader valve.
Unscrew the plastic cap. With a rag underneath to catch any drips, carefully and securely screw on your fuel pressure gauge.
Turn the key to the “ON” position again and watch the gauge. It should jump up to approximately 58 PSI (+/- 2 PSI).
Start the engine. The pressure should hold steady at idle.

Step 3: Interpreting the Results

Pressure is below 50 PSI or lower: You have a fuel delivery problem. It’s most likely a clogged filter or a weak pump. Start by replacing the filter.
Pressure jumps to 58 PSI then quickly drops: This often points to a faulty fuel pressure regulator that isn’t holding pressure or a leak in the system.
Pressure is zero and you heard no prime: Your pump isn’t running. Check the fuel pump fuse and relay first. If those are good, you’re likely looking at a dead pump or a wiring issue.

The Fix: How to Clear Polaris Ranger Code 1347 for Good

Once your diagnosis points to the culprit, it’s time for the repair. Here are some of the common fixes.

Replacing the Fuel Filter

For many models, the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. This means you’ll have to remove the pump assembly to get to it. It’s a straightforward job, but be extremely careful to clean the area around the pump opening before removing it to prevent dirt from falling into your fuel tank.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Assembly

If you’ve confirmed the pump is dead or weak, replacing the entire assembly is often the best route. It usually includes a new pump, filter, and regulator, solving all potential issues at once. Again, cleanliness is critical when your fuel tank is open.

Prevention is Key: Polaris Ranger Code 1347 Best Practices

You don’t want to deal with this again, right? The benefits of polaris ranger code 1347 knowledge is learning how to prevent it. Adopting a proactive and sustainable maintenance routine is the best way to ensure reliability.

Your Sustainable Fuel System Care Guide

A little prevention goes a long way. Following this polaris ranger code 1347 care guide will save you headaches and money, making it a sustainable practice for long-term ownership.

Use High-Quality Fuel: Always use fresh, high-quality gasoline from a reputable station. Avoid letting fuel sit in the tank for months, and use a fuel stabilizer if you plan to store your Ranger.
Follow a Maintenance Schedule: Don’t wait for a problem. Replace your fuel filter at the interval recommended in your owner’s manual. This is one of the best eco-friendly things you can do, as it ensures a clean burn and prevents the wasteful replacement of larger parts.
Periodic Inspections: After a particularly rough ride, take five minutes to visually inspect the fuel lines under your machine for any kinks, pinches, or damage.

Frequently Asked Questions About Polaris Ranger Code 1347

Can I still drive my Ranger with code 1347?

It’s strongly discouraged. A low fuel pressure condition can cause the engine to run lean (too much air, not enough fuel), which can lead to engine damage over time. More importantly, you risk the machine dying completely and leaving you stranded far from the trailhead.

How much does it cost to fix code 1347?

The cost varies dramatically based on the cause. A new fuel filter might only be $20-$40 if you do it yourself. A complete fuel pump assembly can cost anywhere from $200 to over $400 for the part alone. A professional repair at a dealership could run several hundred dollars more with labor.

Will clearing the code with a scanner fix the problem?

Absolutely not. Clearing the code only erases the alert from the ECU’s memory. The moment you start the engine and the ECU detects the low fuel pressure again, the check engine light and the code will come right back. You must fix the underlying mechanical problem.

Is a weak battery related to code 1347?

It can be an indirect cause. The fuel pump requires a strong, steady voltage to run at its correct speed. A severely weak or failing battery might not supply enough juice, causing the pump to underperform and trigger the code. Always ensure your battery is fully charged and healthy before diving into deeper diagnostics.

Tackling a check engine light can feel intimidating, but code 1347 is a problem you can absolutely solve. By following a logical diagnostic process and putting safety first, you can get to the root of the issue and fix it yourself. You’ll save money, learn more about your machine, and gain the confidence that comes with being a self-sufficient owner.

Now you have the knowledge and the plan. Get those tools out, get that Ranger running like new, and we’ll see you back on the trail. Ride safe!

Author
Recent Posts

Thomas Corle

Founder & Automobile expert at FatBoysOffroad

Automobile expert and off-road enthusiast, sharing in-depth knowledge of vehicles, gear, and adventures. Helping readers make smart decisions and enjoy the thrill of off-roading safely and confidently.