Is your RZR’s steering feeling sloppy? A bit of play in the wheel that just wasn’t there before? That vague, wandering feeling on the trail can not only ruin a good ride but can also be a serious safety concern.
You might think a job this critical is strictly for the pros, but we’re here to tell you that you can absolutely tackle this yourself. At FatBoysOffroad, we believe in empowering owners to wrench on their own rigs.
This guide will walk you through the entire polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal process, step-by-step. We’ll turn a daunting task into a manageable weekend project, saving you money and giving you the satisfaction of a job done right.
Why Bother? Signs Your RZR 800 Rack and Pinion is Failing
Before you start turning wrenches, it’s crucial to confirm the rack and pinion is actually the culprit. This component translates your steering wheel input into the side-to-side movement of your front wheels. When it wears out, the connection gets loose and imprecise.
Understanding the benefits of polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal is simple: it’s the first step to restoring safety, control, and performance. A new rack means tight, responsive steering you can trust on challenging terrain.
Common Symptoms of a Bad Rack and Pinion:
- Excessive Steering Play: This is the most common sign. If you can wiggle your steering wheel more than an inch or two without the wheels turning, your rack’s internal gears are likely worn.
- Clunking or Popping Noises: Hearing a distinct clunk when you turn the wheel, especially at low speeds, often points to worn-out inner tie rods or mounting bushings on the rack itself.
- Wandering on the Trail: Does your RZR feel like it has a mind of its own, requiring constant small corrections to stay straight? This “wandering” is a classic symptom of a worn steering rack.
- Uneven Tire Wear: While many issues can cause this, a bad rack can lead to improper toe angles that you can’t align correctly, scrubbing the inside or outside edges of your front tires.
Gearing Up: The Right Tools and Parts for the Job
Walking into a job with the right tools is half the battle. Scrambling to find a specific socket mid-job is frustrating and wastes time. Gather everything you need beforehand for a smooth process.
This is a core part of our polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal best practices. Preparation prevents problems.
Essential Tools Checklist:
- Safety Gear: Always start with safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves.
- Jack and Jack Stands: A sturdy floor jack and a pair of rated jack stands are non-negotiable. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Socket and Wrench Set: You’ll need a good metric set. Common sizes for this job include 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm, but have a full set ready.
- Breaker Bar: For those stubborn, corroded bolts.
- Torque Wrench: Crucial for proper reinstallation to ensure components are secured to factory specifications.
- Tie Rod End Puller: Also known as a pickle fork or pitman arm puller. This is the correct tool for separating the tie rod end from the steering knuckle without damaging it.
- Penetrating Oil: Your best friend for any bolt that’s seen mud and water. Spray all relevant nuts and bolts generously the night before if you can.
- Grease: For lubricating fittings on your new components.
Parts You’ll Need:
- New Rack and Pinion Assembly: This is the main event. You can choose an OEM replacement or a heavy-duty aftermarket option from brands like SuperATV or All Balls Racing.
- New Cotter Pins: Never reuse old cotter pins. They are a single-use safety item.
The Definitive Polaris RZR 800 2011 Rack and Pinion Removal Guide
Alright, let’s get down to business. This detailed guide covers how to polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal safely and efficiently. Take your time, read each step, and don’t rush.
Step 1: Safety First – Prep Your Workspace
Park your RZR on a flat, level surface like a garage floor or concrete driveway. Engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent any chance of rolling.
Part of a sustainable polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal process is being prepared. Have a drain pan ready for any potential fluid drips and a plan for recycling your old metal parts.
Step 2: Gaining Access – Wheels and Front Plastics
With the RZR on the ground, use your breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts slightly. Don’t remove them yet.
Now, use your floor jack to lift the front end of the machine. Position your jack stands securely under the frame on both sides. Once the stands are set, lower the jack until the RZR’s weight rests fully on them. Now you can safely remove the lug nuts and front wheels.
For much better access, remove the front hood and any surrounding plastic panels. This usually involves just a few clips or bolts and is well worth the extra five minutes.
Step 3: Disconnecting the Tie Rod Ends
Locate the castle nut on the bottom of the tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. Use pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin. Dispose of it.
Remove the castle nut. The tie rod stud is tapered and will be pressed firmly into the knuckle. Do not just beat it with a hammer. Insert your tie rod end puller and tighten it until the stud pops free with a loud bang. This is normal. Repeat on the other side.
Step 4: Unbolting the Steering Shaft
Look inside the cab, down by the floorboard, or from the front looking back at the firewall. You will find the steering shaft’s lower U-joint connected to the input shaft of the rack and pinion.
There is a single pinch bolt holding it in place. Before removing it, it’s a pro tip to lock your steering wheel in the straight-ahead position. Remove the bolt completely. The shaft should then slide off the splined input shaft of the rack.
Step 5: Removing the Rack Mounting Bolts
This is often the most challenging part due to tight access. The rack is held to the front frame crossmember by two main U-bolts or four individual bolts, depending on the exact model.
You’ll need to get your wrenches or sockets into a tight space. A combination of extensions and swivels for your ratchet can be a lifesaver here. Patiently work on all four nuts/bolts until the rack is free from the frame.
Step 6: Wiggling It Free – Final Removal
With everything disconnected, the rack is now loose. You will need to carefully maneuver and snake it out of the frame. It’s often a tight fit, and you may need to turn it or slide it to one side to find the path of least resistance. Be patient here to avoid damaging other components.
Congratulations! The old rack is out. Now’s a great time to clean the mounting area before installing the new one.
Common Problems and Pro Tips for a Smooth Removal
Even the best plans can hit a snag. Here are some solutions to common problems with polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal that we’ve seen at the shop.
- Seized Bolts: Rust and grime are your enemies. If a bolt won’t budge, soak it again with penetrating oil and let it sit. A good whack on the head of the bolt with a hammer can sometimes shock the threads loose. As a last resort, carefully applying heat from a torch can work, but be extremely cautious of flammable materials nearby.
- Stripped Bolt Heads: Using a quality six-point socket instead of a 12-point can help prevent this. If it’s too late, a dedicated bolt extractor socket set is a worthwhile investment for any DIY mechanic.
- Steering Misalignment: If you forgot to lock the steering wheel straight, don’t panic. You can get it close during reinstallation, but it reinforces why a professional alignment is so critical afterward.
Beyond Removal: Choosing a Replacement and Installation Best Practices
Your old rack is out, now what? You have a choice between an OEM replacement or a heavy-duty aftermarket unit.
Aftermarket racks often feature stronger internal components and housings, making them a great upgrade if you ride hard or have larger tires. Installation is the reverse of removal, but pay close attention to these polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal care guide tips for the new part.
- Center the New Rack: Before installing, turn the new rack’s input shaft lock-to-lock, counting the turns. Then, turn it back exactly half that distance. This ensures it’s centered, giving you an equal number of turns left and right.
- Use a Torque Wrench: This is not optional. Overtightening can damage threads, and undertightening is a massive safety hazard. Consult your RZR’s service manual for the exact torque specifications for the rack mounting bolts, steering shaft bolt, and tie rod end nuts.
- Grease Everything: If your new tie rod ends have grease fittings (zerks), pump them full of quality chassis grease until the dust boot just begins to swell.
- Get a Professional Alignment: After the job is done, you must get your front end aligned. Your “eyeball” alignment won’t be accurate. A proper alignment ensures your RZR tracks straight, handles correctly, and doesn’t prematurely destroy your new tires.
Frequently Asked Questions About Polaris RZR 800 2011 Rack and Pinion Removal
How long does it take to remove a RZR 800 rack and pinion?
For a first-timer with the right tools, plan for about 3-4 hours. An experienced mechanic can often do it in under 2. The biggest variables are rust and bolt access.
Can I rebuild my old rack and pinion instead of replacing it?
Rebuild kits are available, but it’s a meticulous process. For most DIYers, the time and potential for error make a complete replacement assembly a more reliable and efficient option.
Do I really need a tie rod end puller?
Yes, we strongly recommend it. The “hammer method” can damage the threads on the tie rod, the steering knuckle, or the sensitive wheel bearings inside the hub. The tool is inexpensive and does the job correctly and safely.
What’s the most difficult part of this job?
Hands down, it’s usually accessing and breaking loose the main rack mounting bolts. They are in a tight spot and are often seized from exposure to the elements. Patience and penetrating oil are key.
Do I need an alignment after replacing the rack?
Yes, absolutely. It’s impossible to get the toe angle perfect by hand. A professional alignment is critical for your safety, the machine’s handling characteristics, and your tire longevity.
Tackling your own polaris rzr 800 2011 rack and pinion removal is a rewarding project that puts you in control of your machine’s health. By following this guide, using the right tools, and prioritizing safety, you can restore that factory-fresh steering feel.
Now get those tools out, banish that sloppy steering, and get back on the trail with the confidence that comes from a job well done. Ride safe, and keep the rubber side down!
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