There’s nothing worse than being deep on a trail, miles from the truck, and smelling that unmistakable scent of burning rubber. Your RZR 800 grinds to a halt, and you know exactly what happened: a blown drive belt. It’s a frustrating, ride-ending moment that almost every RZR owner has experienced or dreads experiencing.
But what if you could not only prevent most belt failures but also know exactly what to do when one inevitably happens? This guide is your promise to mastering your RZR’s most critical wear item. We’re going to treat this as if you’re right here in the FatBoysOffroad garage with us.
We’ll cover everything from choosing the right polaris rzr 800 drive belt, a step-by-step replacement guide, essential maintenance tips to maximize its life, and how to troubleshoot common problems on the spot. Let’s get your machine reliable and ready for anything the trail throws at it.
Why Your Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt is the Heart of Your Drivetrain
Before we get our hands dirty, let’s understand what we’re working with. The drive belt isn’t just a simple rubber band; it’s the critical link that transfers power from your engine to your wheels. Your RZR 800 uses a Continuously Variable Transmission, or CVT, which is a brilliant piece of engineering.
Instead of traditional gears, a CVT uses two variable-diameter pulleys—the primary (drive) clutch and the secondary (driven) clutch—connected by the drive belt. As you hit the throttle, the primary clutch squeezes the belt, changing its position and effectively creating an infinite number of “gear ratios.”
This system is what gives your RZR its snappy acceleration and smooth power delivery. But it also puts an immense amount of stress, friction, and heat on that one single component: the belt. That’s why understanding and maintaining it is non-negotiable for any serious rider.
Choosing the Best Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt for Your Ride
Not all belts are created equal. Walking into a shop or browsing online reveals a ton of options, and picking the wrong one can lead to poor performance or premature failure. Here’s a simple breakdown of this essential polaris rzr 800 drive belt guide.
OEM vs. Aftermarket Belts: The Great Debate
The first choice you’ll face is between an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Polaris belt and an aftermarket one from brands like Gates, Dayco, or Trinity.
- OEM Polaris Belts: These are designed specifically for your machine by the people who built it. They offer proven reliability and a perfect fit. The downside? They often come with a higher price tag. For general trail riding, you can rarely go wrong with OEM.
- Aftermarket Belts: Companies specializing in belt technology often offer belts with different compounds designed for specific uses. You can find heavy-duty belts for mudding or rock crawling, or performance belts for high-speed desert running. They are often more affordable, but quality can vary. Do your research and stick to reputable brands.
Understanding Belt Compounds
The materials used in a belt dictate its performance and durability. Most high-quality belts use a blend of advanced rubber compounds reinforced with aramid fibers (like Kevlar). This construction helps the belt withstand extreme heat and resist stretching under heavy loads—two of the biggest killers of a polaris rzr 800 drive belt.
How to Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt: A Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
Alright, it’s time to get to work. Changing a belt on the trail or in your garage is a fundamental skill every RZR owner should have. It looks intimidating, but with the right tools and steps, it’s very manageable.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need
- New Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt (always carry a spare!)
- Ratchet with 8mm and 10mm sockets
- Clutch Spreader Tool (comes in the factory toolkit)
- Clean, lint-free rags
- Brake Cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol
- Scotch-Brite Pad (maroon or gray)
Safety First: Pre-Job Checklist
Before you touch a single bolt, ensure the RZR is on level ground, in Park, with the parking brake set. The engine must be OFF and completely cool to the touch. Working around a hot exhaust or clutch is a recipe for serious burns.
Step 1: Accessing the CVT Cover
The CVT cover is the black plastic housing on the driver’s side of the engine. It’s held on by a series of 8mm or 10mm bolts around its perimeter. Carefully remove all of them—it’s easy to miss one tucked away at the bottom. Once all bolts are out, gently pull the cover straight off. You might need to wiggle it a bit.
Step 2: Removing the Old Belt
With the cover off, you’ll see the two clutches and the belt. Take a picture with your phone so you remember how the belt is routed. Now, grab your clutch spreader tool from the RZR’s toolkit. Find the threaded hole on the outer sheave of the secondary (rear) clutch. Thread the tool in by hand, then use a ratchet to tighten it. This will spread the clutch sheaves apart, creating slack in the belt. Once slack, you can easily walk the belt off the top of the secondary clutch and then off the primary.
Step 3: Cleaning the Clutches (The Most Important Step!)
This is one of the most crucial polaris rzr 800 drive belt tips that people skip. If your old belt shredded, there will be rubber residue and cords all over the clutch faces. Even if it didn’t, a glazed surface will cause the new belt to slip.
Spray a clean rag with brake cleaner (do NOT spray it directly on the clutches) and wipe the clutch faces thoroughly. Use a Scotch-Brite pad to lightly scuff the surfaces in a circular motion to remove any glazing. Wipe them down one last time to ensure they are perfectly clean and dry. A clean surface is key to a long belt life.
Step 4: Installing the New Belt Correctly
Check your new belt for any directional arrows. If it has them, make sure they point forward (in the direction of travel). Loop the new belt over the primary (front) clutch first, then start walking it onto the secondary (rear) clutch. It should slide on easily with the secondary still spread open. Once it’s seated in both clutches, you can unthread and remove the spreader tool. The secondary will snap back and tension the belt.
Step 5: Reassembly and Final Checks
Rotate the secondary clutch by hand a few times to make sure the belt is seated properly in the sheaves. Reinstall the CVT cover, making sure the gasket is in place. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to ensure an even seal. Don’t overtighten them—they just need to be snug.
Common Problems with Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt and How to Fix Them
Knowing how to spot trouble early can save you from being stranded. Here are some of the most common issues you’ll encounter and what they mean.
Symptom: Belt Slipping or Squealing
A squeal on takeoff or a feeling of hesitation before the RZR moves is a classic sign of belt slip. This is often caused by glazed or dirty clutches, a worn-out belt, or water getting into the CVT housing. The fix? A thorough clutch cleaning and inspection of the belt for glazing (shiny, hard spots).
Symptom: Glazing and Hourglassing
If you inspect your belt and see shiny, smooth patches, that’s glazing from excessive heat and slipping. If the sides of the belt are noticeably concave or “hourglassed,” it’s worn out and has lost its gripping power. In both cases, the only solution is to replace the belt and clean the clutches.
Symptom: Catastrophic Belt Failure (Shredding)
This is the big one. A belt that explodes into a mess of cords and rubber is usually the result of extreme heat, a sudden shock load (like landing a jump on the throttle), or improper clutch alignment. When this happens on the trail, your first job is to meticulously clean every last bit of debris out of the clutches and housing before installing your spare.
Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt Care Guide: Best Practices for Maximum Life
Want to avoid all those problems? Follow these polaris rzr 800 drive belt best practices to get hundreds, or even thousands, of miles out of a single belt.
The Importance of a Proper Break-In Period
A new belt needs to be broken in to mate it to the clutch surfaces. Drive for 20-30 miles using varied throttle, avoiding full-throttle acceleration and high-speed runs. Let the machine cool down completely afterward. This heat-cycles the belt, dramatically increasing its lifespan.
Use Low Range Gear Correctly
Your RZR has a low-range gear for a reason. Use it! Anytime you’re driving under 15-20 mph, crawling over rocks, loading onto a trailer, or pulling a heavy load, you should be in Low. This keeps the clutches in an optimal position, reducing heat and preventing the belt from slipping.
Regular Inspection and Cleaning
Every few rides, or after a particularly dusty or wet one, pop the CVT cover off. Blow out any dust and debris with compressed air. Visually inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, or glazing. This 5-minute check can save you a 5-hour walk back to the truck.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt Considerations
When we talk about being sustainable in off-roading, it often comes down to longevity and responsibility. A sustainable polaris rzr 800 drive belt approach isn’t about finding a “green” belt, but about making the one you have last as long as possible.
Every time you extend a belt’s life through proper care—like using low gear and regular cleaning—you reduce waste. You consume fewer resources and put less material into landfills. When a belt does finally reach the end of its life, don’t just toss it in the trash. Many automotive or tire shops have recycling programs for rubber products. It’s a small step that contributes to keeping our trails and planet clean.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Polaris RZR 800 Drive Belt
How often should I change my RZR 800 belt?
There’s no magic number. It depends entirely on your riding style. An aggressive driver might go through a belt in 500 miles, while a casual trail rider might get over 2,000 miles. The best practice is regular inspection. Replace it at the first sign of significant wear, like cracks, fraying, or heavy glazing.
Can I use a belt from a different RZR model?
No. Belts are designed with specific lengths, widths, and angles for each machine’s clutch setup. Using the wrong belt will lead to poor performance and almost certain failure. Always use a belt specifically listed for the Polaris RZR 800.
What’s that burning rubber smell?
That’s the smell of your belt slipping and getting extremely hot. If you smell it, back off the throttle immediately. Let the machine cool down. This is a major warning sign that you’re either in the wrong gear (use Low!) or your belt is about to fail.
Do I really need to break in a new belt?
Yes, absolutely. It’s one of the most important things you can do. The break-in process heat-cycles the belt’s rubber compounds and allows it to conform perfectly to your clutch sheaves. Skipping this step is the fastest way to shorten a new belt’s life.
Mastering your polaris rzr 800 drive belt is a rite of passage for any owner. It transforms you from a passenger to a confident, self-reliant rider who can tackle problems head-on. Keep a spare belt, carry the right tools, and follow this guide. Now get out there, ride smart, and stay safe on the trails!
- Can-Am Outlander Years To Avoid – A Mechanic’S Guide To Buying Smart - November 30, 2025
- Polaris Sportsman 570 Vs Can Am Outlander 700 – The Ultimate Off-Road - November 30, 2025
- Can Am Outlander Fuel Pump Problems – Your Complete DIY Diagnostic & - November 30, 2025