Ever catch a whiff of burning oil or spot dark puddles under your prized 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee? You’re not alone. For many WK2 owners, especially those who push their rigs on and off the pavement, a common culprit eventually emerges: a failing oil filter housing. It’s a frustrating issue, but one you can tackle yourself with the right guidance.
At FatBoysOffroad, we understand the satisfaction of wrenching on your own vehicle. That’s why we’ve put together this comprehensive, step-by-step guide to help you master the
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee oil filter housing replacement
. We’ll walk you through everything from diagnosing the problem to getting your Jeep back on the trail, leak-free and running strong. Get ready to save a significant chunk of change and gain a huge sense of accomplishment.
Understanding the Problem: Why Your Oil Filter Housing Fails
The oil filter housing on your 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, particularly those equipped with the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine, is a critical component. It houses the engine’s oil filter and coolant temperature sensor, and it also directs oil and coolant flow. Unfortunately, the original factory housing is often made from a composite plastic material.
Over time, this plastic becomes brittle due to constant exposure to high engine temperatures and thermal cycling. The plastic can crack, and the integrated gaskets and O-rings can degrade, leading to frustrating and potentially damaging oil and coolant leaks.
Common Symptoms of a Failing Housing
Knowing what to look for can save you a lot of headache. Don’t ignore these warning signs.
- Visible Oil Leaks: You might see oil dripping down the back of the engine, often pooling in the “valley” beneath the intake manifold or on the transmission bell housing.
- Burning Oil Smell: Oil leaking onto hot exhaust components or other engine parts will produce a distinct burning smell, especially when the engine is warm.
- Low Oil Level Warning: Consistent leaks can lead to a dangerously low oil level, triggering dashboard warnings.
- Coolant Leaks: The housing also routes coolant. Leaks might show up as pink or orange stains, and your coolant reservoir level might drop.
- Check Engine Light: A coolant temperature sensor failure, often integrated into the housing, can trigger a check engine light.
Addressing these issues promptly is crucial. Prolonged oil leaks can lead to insufficient lubrication, while coolant leaks can cause overheating, both of which can result in catastrophic engine damage.
Essential Tools and Parts for the Job
Before you dive in, gathering all your tools and parts is key. This isn’t a job you want to stop halfway through because you’re missing a specific socket.
Required Parts
Ensure you get a quality replacement part. Many aftermarket housings are now made with aluminum or reinforced plastic to address the original design flaws.
- New Oil Filter Housing Assembly: This will include new gaskets and sensors. Verify it’s specifically for the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine in a 2015 Grand Cherokee.
- Fresh Engine Oil: You’ll be draining the oil, so have the correct type and quantity on hand (usually 5W-20 or 5W-30, check your owner’s manual).
- New Oil Filter: A fresh filter should always go with a new housing.
- Engine Coolant (OAT type): You will lose some coolant during the process. Have enough compatible OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant for topping off or a full refill.
- Intake Manifold Gaskets: These are crucial. Do not reuse the old ones. Often, a new housing kit will include these, but confirm.
Tools You’ll Need
This list covers most of what you’ll encounter. Always have a good shop light!
- Socket Set (Metric): 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm are commonly used.
- Ratchet Wrenches: 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, and 1/2-inch drives.
- Torque Wrench: Essential for proper reassembly to prevent future leaks or damage.
- Extensions and Swivel Joints: For reaching fasteners in tight spots.
- Pliers: Needle-nose, standard, and hose clamp pliers.
- Screwdrivers: Flathead and Phillips.
- Razor Blade/Gasket Scraper: For cleaning mating surfaces.
- Drain Pans: At least two – one for oil, one for coolant.
- Funnel: For refilling fluids.
- Shop Rags/Paper Towels: You’ll use a lot.
- Brake Cleaner/Degreaser: For cleaning up spills and old oil residue.
- Safety Glasses: Non-negotiable.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from oil and coolant.
- Jack Stands and Floor Jack: For safe lifting if you need to drain oil from below.
- Flashlight or Headlamp: Illuminating those dark engine bays is crucial.
Performing the 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Oil Filter Housing Replacement: Step-by-Step
This is a moderately challenging DIY job. Take your time, follow each step carefully, and double-check your work.
Step 1: Safety First and Initial Prep
Safety is paramount. Hot engines, corrosive fluids, and heavy parts require respect.
1.
Park on a Level Surface:
Ensure your Jeep is stable. 2.
Engage Parking Brake:
Prevent any accidental movement. 3.
Disconnect Battery:
Always disconnect the negative terminal first. This prevents electrical shorts and accidental activation of components. 4.
Allow Engine to Cool:
Working on a hot engine is dangerous. Give it several hours to cool down completely. 5.
Gather Your Tools:
Lay out everything you need within reach.
Step 2: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
You’ll be removing lines that carry both fluids, so it’s best to drain them beforehand.
1.
Drain Engine Oil:
Place your oil drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the drain plug and let all the oil drain out. Replace the drain plug when done. 2.
Drain Coolant:
Position a separate coolant drain pan under the radiator. Open the radiator drain cock (petcock) and allow the coolant to drain. If your Jeep has an air bleed screw on the thermostat housing, open it to help the coolant drain faster. Close the drain cock once drained.
Step 3: Removing the Intake Manifold
The oil filter housing sits directly beneath the upper intake manifold, making its removal necessary.
1.
Remove Engine Cover:
Unclip or unbolt the plastic engine cover. 2.
Disconnect Air Intake:
Loosen the clamps on the air intake tube and remove it from the throttle body and air box. Disconnect any associated sensors or vacuum lines. 3.
Disconnect Electrical Connectors:
Carefully disconnect all electrical connectors from the throttle body, MAP sensor, and any other sensors on the intake manifold. Label them if you’re concerned about mixing them up. 4.
Disconnect Vacuum Lines:
Note the routing of all vacuum lines connected to the intake manifold. Use pliers to release hose clamps and gently pull lines off. 5.
Remove Throttle Body:
Unbolt the throttle body from the intake manifold. Set it aside carefully; do not let it hang by its wires. 6.
Unbolt Intake Manifold:
Locate the intake manifold bolts (usually 6-8 bolts). Loosen and remove them in a crisscross pattern to prevent warping. Keep track of bolt locations, as some may be longer than others. 7.
Lift Intake Manifold:
Gently lift the intake manifold off the engine. Be careful not to damage the fuel injectors underneath. If it’s stubborn, rock it slightly. Set it aside in a clean, safe place.
Step 4: Accessing and Removing the Old Oil Filter Housing
With the intake manifold out of the way, the oil filter housing is now visible.
1.
Disconnect Fuel Lines (Optional but Recommended):
For better access and safety, you might want to disconnect the fuel rail from the intake side. This usually involves pressing a release tab and pulling. Have rags ready for any residual fuel. 2.
Disconnect Remaining Sensors/Hoses:
Disconnect the electrical connector for the coolant temperature sensor on the oil filter housing. Detach any coolant hoses connected to the housing. 3.
Remove Oil Filter Housing Bolts:
There are typically several bolts securing the housing to the engine block. These are often 10mm or 13mm. Remove them all. 4.
Carefully Lift Out Housing:
Once all bolts and connections are removed, gently pry and lift the old oil filter housing straight up and out. Be prepared for some residual oil and coolant to spill. Have your drain pans ready.
Step 5: Cleaning and Installing the New Housing
This is where attention to detail prevents future leaks.
1.
Clean Mating Surfaces:
This is arguably the most critical step. Use a razor blade or gasket scraper to meticulously remove all old gasket material from the engine block’s mating surface. Ensure it’s perfectly clean and smooth. Use brake cleaner to remove any oil residue. 2.
Inspect New Housing:
Double-check that your new
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee oil filter housing replacement
unit has all new gaskets, O-rings, and the coolant temperature sensor pre-installed. 3.
Position New Housing:
Carefully lower the new housing into place, ensuring the gaskets align perfectly with the engine block. 4.
Install Housing Bolts:
Hand-thread all the housing bolts first to ensure they are properly seated. 5.
Torque Housing Bolts:
Using your torque wrench, tighten the housing bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque (consult your service manual or a reliable online source for exact specs, usually around 89 in-lbs or 10 Nm). Tighten in a crisscross pattern to ensure even pressure. 6.
Reconnect Hoses and Sensors:
Reattach all coolant hoses and electrical connectors to the new housing. Ensure all clamps are secure.
Step 6: Reinstalling the Intake Manifold and Final Assembly
Work backward to put everything back together.
1.
Install New Intake Manifold Gaskets:
Place the new intake manifold gaskets onto the engine’s lower intake ports. Ensure they are correctly oriented and seated. 2.
Position Intake Manifold:
Carefully lower the intake manifold back onto the engine, aligning it with the bolt holes and the new gaskets. 3.
Install Intake Manifold Bolts:
Hand-thread all intake manifold bolts. 4.
Torque Intake Manifold Bolts:
Using your torque wrench, tighten these bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (typically around 105 in-lbs or 12 Nm), again in a crisscross pattern. 5.
Reconnect Everything Else:
- Reinstall the throttle body and reconnect its electrical connector.
- Reconnect all vacuum lines and electrical connectors to the intake manifold, throttle body, and other components.
- Reinstall the air intake tube and tighten clamps.
- Reconnect any fuel lines if you disconnected them.
- Reinstall the engine cover.
Step 7: Refill Fluids and Initial Start-Up
The moment of truth! Don’t rush this part.
1.
Install New Oil Filter:
Insert a fresh oil filter into the new housing. 2.
Add Engine Oil:
Refill the engine with the correct type and amount of new engine oil. Check the dipstick. 3.
Refill Coolant:
Slowly add coolant to the coolant reservoir. It’s crucial to “bleed” the cooling system to remove trapped air.
- Start the engine with the heater on full blast and the reservoir cap off.
- Allow the engine to reach operating temperature, watching for bubbles to escape the reservoir.
- Squeeze radiator hoses to help dislodge air pockets.
- Top off coolant as needed. This process can take 20-30 minutes.
4.
Reconnect Battery:
Reconnect the positive terminal, then the negative terminal. 5.
Start Engine:
Start your Jeep and immediately check for any leaks around the new oil filter housing. Listen for unusual noises. 6.
Check for Leaks Again:
Let the engine run for 10-15 minutes, then shut it off and thoroughly inspect the area around the new housing for any signs of oil or coolant leaks. If you see any, shut down immediately and investigate. 7.
Test Drive:
Take a short test drive, paying attention to temperature gauges and any warning lights. After the drive, re-check fluid levels and for leaks.
Pro Tips and Common Pitfalls
Even experienced DIYers can run into snags. Here’s how to avoid them.
- Cleanliness is Key: Any old gasket material or debris on the mating surfaces WILL cause a leak. Take your time cleaning.
- Torque Specs Matter: Over-tightening can crack the new housing (even if it’s aluminum), and under-tightening will lead to leaks. Use that torque wrench!
- Bleeding the Coolant System: This is often overlooked. Air pockets can cause your engine to overheat. Be patient and thorough.
- Quality Parts: Don’t cheap out on the replacement housing or gaskets. An upgraded aluminum housing is a wise investment for long-term reliability.
- Label Everything: If you’re unsure about reconnecting wires or hoses, use painter’s tape and a marker to label them as you disconnect.
- Photograph as You Go: Take pictures with your phone at each stage of disassembly. These can be invaluable references during reassembly.
- Don’t Force It: If a part isn’t coming off easily, re-check for hidden bolts, clips, or connections. Forcing things can lead to broken components.
Frequently Asked Questions About 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Oil Filter Housing Replacement
Tackling this repair can bring up a lot of questions. Here are some common ones.
How long does a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee oil filter housing replacement typically take?
For an experienced DIY mechanic, this job can take 4-6 hours. For a first-timer, plan for 8-10 hours, allowing plenty of time for cleaning, double-checking, and unexpected issues. A professional shop might complete it in 3-5 hours.
Should I replace anything else while I have the intake manifold off?
Absolutely! With the intake manifold removed, it’s an excellent time to inspect or replace spark plugs, PCV valve, and potentially the thermostat and its housing, as access to these components is greatly improved.
What type of coolant does my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L use?
Your 2015 Grand Cherokee with the 3.6L Pentastar engine typically uses OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant, specifically Mopar brand or an equivalent that meets Chrysler MS-12106 specification. It’s usually pink or purple in color. Never mix different types of coolant.
What’s the difference between the plastic and aluminum oil filter housings?
The original plastic housing is prone to cracking and warping due to heat cycles. Aftermarket aluminum housings are designed to be more durable and resistant to these issues, offering a long-term solution to the common leak problem.
Do I need to bleed the brakes after a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee oil filter housing replacement?
No, there is no connection between the oil filter housing and the brake system. You will not need to bleed your brakes after this repair.
Hit the Road, Leak-Free!
Completing a
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee oil filter housing replacement
is a significant accomplishment for any DIY mechanic. Not only have you saved a considerable amount of money, but you’ve also gained valuable experience and ensured the longevity of your vehicle. Your Jeep is now ready for countless more miles, whether you’re commuting to work or venturing deep into the backcountry.
Remember, proper maintenance is the cornerstone of reliable off-road performance. By taking the time to address critical issues like this, you’re building a stronger, more trustworthy rig. Keep those wrenches handy, stay safe, and happy trails!
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